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Usually when I make pattern I study the object of pattern, I am look throught a lot of images, in this case I also listen some tracks and I like it. Do you listen country music? What do you recommend, I think I like modern country more. And here is preview of my new pattern: 4 layers, recommended size: 7,5 x 8 inches, 1/8 - 1/6 inch thickness pattern at https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA

Not necessarily scrolling related but, may be beneficial info. First suggestion, I recently purchased Fast Cap's Glue Bot system, consisting of 3 sizes of bottles and several different applicator nozzles. Very handy for applying just the "right" amount of glue in just the "right" spot. 2nd suggestion for spreading glue on larger areas; although auto body filler spreaders work, a modified one works better...IMHO... Borrow the wife's "Pinking" shears and cut notches in the edges. For smaller areas, cut credit cards or motel door "keys".

In my newsletter from Steve Good this morning he addressed the problem of the blade slipping out while scrolling. How many have heard of the Renewal Kit? Steve has a video showing a easy and better way to fix this issue many of us have (had) with our scrollsaws. Go to his site and watch the video. Hope this helps

I used to have a gluebot. Super handy, but over time, I found it took too much maintenance to clear the dried glue that builds up. Now I just use the regular glue bottle. When I do tiny stuff, I'll just squeeze a bit out onto some old recycling and dip into that with a toothpick. For medium-sized glue-ups, like edge gluing, I use a silicone glue spreader like the one to the left. Works really well and the glue peels off nicely. For large glue-ups, I just use an old piece of cardboard, I'll cut notches in them similar to how you do the credit card. Then I just toss the cardboard when I'm done.

A silicone basting brush from the dollar store works great for spreading glue too. When the glue sets it doesn't stick to the silicone - it just peels/pulls off; and for $1.25 they are cheap enough to be expendable.

I'm still curious as to just why the Pegas clamps are such an improvement over the OE Dewalt. They both employ the same thumbscrew/set screw design. I understand that the clamp bodies of the Pegas are much better than the pot metal ones on the Dewalt. The Pegas won't be as prone to spreading as the Dewalt clamps. But otherwise, isn't the actual clamping done by virtually the same hardware?

Yes, seal the wood before you pour, especially if the wood is porous, such as plywood, oak or such, and most especially the edges of plywood. Then you can do a deep pour. I prefer to use a deep pour epoxy. It is thin and fills in all the small places. It is slow to set and I let it set overnight, maybe even 2 days depending on the weather. That gives it time for any bubbles to float to the surface and resolve themselves. I do not use a heat gun to speed the curing as that might cause bubbles and, at the same time, speed the curing to the point that the bubbles do not have time to float to the surface and resolve. Hope this helps. Don't give up just because you had a bad result on the first try.

I need a clock for my shop. A few weeks ago I asked, in PATTERN REQUEST, if anyone had a pattern for clock face for a shop clock that depicted Scrolling. Did not get any usable responses so I decided I needed to make my own. I believe I adopted the pattern of a “Person at a Scroll Saw” from Steve Good’s library quite a while ago, which I have been using to make my “Scroll Saw Art by Frank” signs and I have also included it in my Logo. I figured I could adapt the pattern by adding some bridges to make it a negative cutting and wrap the clock face hour numerals around it. I found a simple clock face I liked on-line. This is what I came up with. The clock face is a 10” diameter 5/32” thick solid core Maple cut panel affixed to a 10” diameter 1/4” BB Ply Backer painted rattle can Flat Black. The Pattern starts out as an 11” x 11” square. I cut the disk out after the cut panel and backer are glued together. The numerals were cut using a Pegas #0 Spiral Blade and the center pattern using a Pegas #3 MGT R blade. The assembled disk was protected with multiple coats of clear spray Acrylic finish. I purchased a “High Torque Long Shaft Quartz HR1688 Clock Movement Mechanism Replacement Clock Kit with 5.4 Inch Long Spade Hands for DIY Handicrafts Repair Clock Parts Shaft Lengths 22.5mm / 0.89 inch” for $9.49 from Amazon. I had used this item for the Dragon Clock I made a while ago that had a larger diameter and made athe mistake of just reordering the same one. The hands are too long for this smaller diameter clock. I should order new shorter hands, but probably won't bother. I made this clock too quickly and there are lots of goofs in both the cutting and finishing, but it will do for hanging in my shop. I will post the pattern in New Pattern Announcements’. Comments welcome but you can skip the critiques.

The difference IS the metal used. Stronger, lighter.

ooh nice looking pattern. Music is a good to induce creativity.

Charlie, I am glad @Gene Howe and @TAIrving posted as well...they are sooo right. You need to seal the wood some way first. What I do is I use a spray lacquer because I have so many weird fret holes and my wood is about 3/4 inch thick so I want to make sure I get a good cover. Also, I hang my wood on a clothesline so I can spray it in all directions

WOW

My De Walt's clamps still work OK but, when they start slipping, I have a couple Pegus clamps waiting.

I have purchased this kit a couple of times from Seyco for my Excalibur. It consists of two set screws and two of the small pins with o-rings to replace the tips on the knobs. The cost is around $7 - 8. Some people have had success with refinishing by sanding the surfaces of the two parts. The issue is getting an absolute flat face on the tips. Some have made jigs by drilling a hole in a piece of wood to hold the parts vertically while sanding on a flat surface.

I have had a look at buying a machine from Pegas in Italy but at around the same prices as the Axminster and the more local support from Axi I think I will wait and see what happens in a couple of months.

On new wood or, porous stuff, spraying sanding sealer before the pour will mitigate some of those problems. Often, I'll brush on a seal coat of resin, also.

Thanks, I think? I am sure I never turned on underlining because I NEVER use it. So, if there was a key combo I don't know what it is. As to my needing space, what woodworker, other than Dave Monk, do you know who doesn't need more space? I want to free up some wall space so I can mount a bench grinder on the wall and have my spindle sander right under it. Maybe one of those rotating cabinets so that I can also have my planer more useable. Who knows? At this point, I'm lucky to find time to go out there anyway. My wife has a list of crap for me to do all the time so I'm booked up through Thanksgiving Day.

Hi I see a picture of this ages ago. Finallly got round to having a go at making one. Not much scroll saw apart from cutting the circle. Thought you all might like it though. Just waiting for clock mech to arrive.

This was going to be another charcuterie board but I had a different idea. Thanks Steve Good for the pattern. I think I’m going to give it to the man who gave me the cherry wood. I used 321 for the finish. Thanks for looking.

Travis I would like to see location maditory in profile. I find it odd when someone asks for where to buy something and you have no idea of where they live. Not even there country.

Very nice work.

Just finished

Here a few I have done over the years.

I don't do too many flowers, but I found a few. Jewelry boxes for great nieces and a basket of flowers for Mother's Day. The rose is a Steve Good pattern. The hummingbird is from Sheila Landry.

Some of my flowers

Never really done many flowers ..couple of plant pot holders made out of pallets and some initials with a rose ..

Nothing says Spring more than Dogwoods. Already done flowering here in Tennessee. This is a Dogwood Box completed in September 2021.

A couple I've done over the years.

I posted this in the Bragg forum but because it has a flower for Mother's Day I thought I'd go ahead and post it with this month's challenge.

Sue Mey pattern!

I cut two of these years ago on my first scroll saw. If I remember correctly, they are the only flowers I have ever cut. It is solid wood, not plywood.

A Steve Good pattern.easy to do and very cute.

A couple I did a couple years ago.

That new batch you are waiting on will probably have a much bigger price tag??

If you purchased one from the US wouldn't you need to have a power converter or something? The reason it is hard to get a machine, it is called government control.