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After two failed attempts at pouring resin, I cut this for the third time. This time in red oak. I opted to put a plexiglass cover on it rather than attempting another resin pour. It is a gift for my 5 year old grandson who has become a Star Wars fanatic. He watches with his dad, my son, who knows where the scary parts are and my sweet grandson covers up his eye till daddy says it's over. I love listening to him talk about Star Wars. He pronounces Luke, Wute, and he really likes The Umpire Strikes Back. Thanks to everyone who gave me advice about the resin pouring. Maybe I'll try again sometime. Maybe not.

Latest cuttings. Stack cut 1/4" bb ply. Cut with #3 mg blade. Finish is Danish oil - Fruitwood colour. Backer is card stock.

Looks great Charlie! I am impressed that you cut it 3 times. And the plexiglass cover looks good. Red Oak and epoxy are NOT a pairing made in heaven. You have to seal ALL the cut edges of the red oak before pouring. I hope you do not give up on epoxy. Having made a couple of mistakes, you are well on your way to learning the craft.

Several years ago I made one of these. The hole is drilled slightly under sized so you can carefully thread the knob in to be perfectly straight. I use self adhesive sand paper on the base. This keeps the end flat and is quick to sand and get back to work until a renewal kit is needed.

I keep spares on hand.

Not necessarily scrolling related but, may be beneficial info. First suggestion, I recently purchased Fast Cap's Glue Bot system, consisting of 3 sizes of bottles and several different applicator nozzles. Very handy for applying just the "right" amount of glue in just the "right" spot. 2nd suggestion for spreading glue on larger areas; although auto body filler spreaders work, a modified one works better...IMHO... Borrow the wife's "Pinking" shears and cut notches in the edges. For smaller areas, cut credit cards or motel door "keys".

Just finished this word Art piece for my Granddaughter to give to her boss that she works for in there restaurant. I want to that Don in Brookline for doing this pattern for me. It's made out of Oak and measures 3 1/2 wide by 9 1/4 long.

Charlie, Oh my gosh he it just too cute! He looks like he is happy to have it....Thank you so much for sharing that picture.

Very nice as always!

awesome job

Usually when I make pattern I study the object of pattern, I am look throught a lot of images, in this case I also listen some tracks and I like it. Do you listen country music? What do you recommend, I think I like modern country more. And here is preview of my new pattern: 4 layers, recommended size: 7,5 x 8 inches, 1/8 - 1/6 inch thickness pattern at https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA

This was on the project workshop. I have been wanting to do a billy the Kid. Here is my version. I decided to my first stack cut with this one. I used a 1/8 Oak veneered over a masonite type board. I got it from a cabinet shop. The frame is re-purposed oak. I used some OLD nails as an accent in the corners of the frame.

Great work, Barb. The colors really make them stand out.

That is beautiful, excellent cutting, RJ

You have done a beautiful job on them, I like the lighter blue better, RJ

I am NOT trying to say anything about the poor quality of plywood now, (I know it’s bad). I have learned that when cutting feather tips that are very pointy, never finish the point coming out of the cut, it will break 99% of the time. I spin the blade and go down the side.

I have the Glue Bots, and I primarily used the Baby Bot. I stopped using it because the tip would clog quickly, and the cap broke. Fast Cap replaced the cap to their credit and sent me a bag of replacement parts. Today I use Mainstays 12 Ounce Plastic Squeeze Dispense Bottle from WalMart for my glue dispenser. I make toys and apply tiny amounts of glue on irregularly shaped parts. These are the best tools I have found for this. Dried glue peels off easily should I forget to clean them. The kit is available from many sources. I got mine here. I have used the pinking shear but found it spread far too much glue for my purposes. A piece of threaded rod works great, but you need to clean it quickly. I have used silicon basting brushes. They work well when spreading large amounts of glue. I use a Paint Tray Palette a lot for gluing. Dried glue pops right off and it works gret for paint too.

Robert, I am sorry you are having this trouble. I also have had that issue so now I just use hardwood but typically 3/8 - 3/4 inch. I do have a wonderful bandsaw for resawing to the thickness I want, then use my Jointer (sometimes drum sander) and planer to finish it....pretty happy with the results.

I used to have a gluebot. Super handy, but over time, I found it took too much maintenance to clear the dried glue that builds up. Now I just use the regular glue bottle. When I do tiny stuff, I'll just squeeze a bit out onto some old recycling and dip into that with a toothpick. For medium-sized glue-ups, like edge gluing, I use a silicone glue spreader like the one to the left. Works really well and the glue peels off nicely. For large glue-ups, I just use an old piece of cardboard, I'll cut notches in them similar to how you do the credit card. Then I just toss the cardboard when I'm done.

A silicone basting brush from the dollar store works great for spreading glue too. When the glue sets it doesn't stick to the silicone - it just peels/pulls off; and for $1.25 they are cheap enough to be expendable.

Yes, seal the wood before you pour, especially if the wood is porous, such as plywood, oak or such, and most especially the edges of plywood. Then you can do a deep pour. I prefer to use a deep pour epoxy. It is thin and fills in all the small places. It is slow to set and I let it set overnight, maybe even 2 days depending on the weather. That gives it time for any bubbles to float to the surface and resolve themselves. I do not use a heat gun to speed the curing as that might cause bubbles and, at the same time, speed the curing to the point that the bubbles do not have time to float to the surface and resolve. Hope this helps. Don't give up just because you had a bad result on the first try.

Thanks, I think? I am sure I never turned on underlining because I NEVER use it. So, if there was a key combo I don't know what it is. As to my needing space, what woodworker, other than Dave Monk, do you know who doesn't need more space? I want to free up some wall space so I can mount a bench grinder on the wall and have my spindle sander right under it. Maybe one of those rotating cabinets so that I can also have my planer more useable. Who knows? At this point, I'm lucky to find time to go out there anyway. My wife has a list of crap for me to do all the time so I'm booked up through Thanksgiving Day.

Hi I see a picture of this ages ago. Finallly got round to having a go at making one. Not much scroll saw apart from cutting the circle. Thought you all might like it though. Just waiting for clock mech to arrive.

That may be, but out of the first 6 projects I’ve had 3 failures of one kind or another. I’ve spent way too much time repairing these faults to risk buying it again.