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Latest cuttings. Stack cut 1/4" bb ply. Cut with #3 mg blade. Finish is Danish oil - Fruitwood colour. Backer is card stock.

Ifn yore gonna use yore wife's pinking sheares, ya'll better not let her ketch you kutting somp'on other than fabric, less you end up in the obituaries page.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOcDPLf3NUs&ab_channel=ArtisanPirate Hey Everyone And Happy Memorial Day If Your In The USA! In this scroll saw project video we make this amazing Classic Fretwork Corner Shelf that is themed to birds! The pattern uses 1/4 inch material and the pattern is from the Big Book Of Scroll Saw Woodworking by Fox Chapel Publishing. I think every scroller eventually makes a classic corner shelf! Hope you all like the video! #ArtisanPirate

After two failed attempts at pouring resin, I cut this for the third time. This time in red oak. I opted to put a plexiglass cover on it rather than attempting another resin pour. It is a gift for my 5 year old grandson who has become a Star Wars fanatic. He watches with his dad, my son, who knows where the scary parts are and my sweet grandson covers up his eye till daddy says it's over. I love listening to him talk about Star Wars. He pronounces Luke, Wute, and he really likes The Umpire Strikes Back. Thanks to everyone who gave me advice about the resin pouring. Maybe I'll try again sometime. Maybe not.

Apologies ! You are correct, my AT535SS does have a tilting arm, not a tilting table, it's been a long day !

Having had a mother who sewed a lot of our clothes growing up and our Barbie doll clothes, that was my first thought. I hope you don’t get caught or you’re going to be in a whole heap of trouble. Touching any of her sewing scissors was a sure way to get in BIG trouble.

Blue tape (under the pattern) or packing tape above or below the pattern (clear) will work on the top of the project for reducing splintering too, but nothing will stop splintering of sub standard plywood - plywood with voids, or plywood with missing glue areas. Charley

What happens many times is the little part you are trying to cut will be unsupported by the whole in the table. Then it breaks out because its not supported. Couple simple ways to address this. 1- a playing card with a hole in the middle of it like the kind you can buy at casinos. Put the blade up through the hole and tape the card to the table. and/ or 2- Put another piece of scrap under the piece you are cutting and cut both at the same time. This will give you more support to stop the breaking out stuff.

They are excellent. Love the blue backers. Marg

That is fabulous and I love the fact that you colored the light sabres, or like my grandson used to say when he was a lot younger, light savers. Your grandson will love it. I purchased 3 Star Wars patterns, one says that it something to do with Yoda but I can't for the life of me understand what but I love the pattern, so who cares. Marg

Hey!? i see some of my work under yours,lol

Thanks! I had to consult my son about the right colors. I gave it to Amos this morning. He loved it and explained it is from Star Wars 3/Return of the Jedi because that's when Luke's lightsaber color changes from blue to green and because of how the Death Star looks.

Usually when I make pattern I study the object of pattern, I am look throught a lot of images, in this case I also listen some tracks and I like it. Do you listen country music? What do you recommend, I think I like modern country more. And here is preview of my new pattern: 4 layers, recommended size: 7,5 x 8 inches, 1/8 - 1/6 inch thickness pattern at https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA

I have the Glue Bots, and I primarily used the Baby Bot. I stopped using it because the tip would clog quickly, and the cap broke. Fast Cap replaced the cap to their credit and sent me a bag of replacement parts. Today I use Mainstays 12 Ounce Plastic Squeeze Dispense Bottle from WalMart for my glue dispenser. I make toys and apply tiny amounts of glue on irregularly shaped parts. These are the best tools I have found for this. Dried glue peels off easily should I forget to clean them. The kit is available from many sources. I got mine here. I have used the pinking shear but found it spread far too much glue for my purposes. A piece of threaded rod works great, but you need to clean it quickly. I have used silicon basting brushes. They work well when spreading large amounts of glue. I use a Paint Tray Palette a lot for gluing. Dried glue pops right off and it works gret for paint too.

I am slower than molasses in January but I finally got it done. My photography skills aren't very good so I apologize for the glare. So I scrolled sawed my epoxy resin painting.... Here are my steps: I painted a galaxy pic on plywood, added a layer of epoxy resin (made a dam around the wood with tape), painted more stars for depth, another layer of epoxy, airbrushed and added the moon, and another layer of epoxy. Let that dry 2 weeks than scroll sawed my Daughter and her husband's wedding pic (silhouette) into the resin/picture (that was scary). Glued a backing of 1/4" BB on to it, sanded the epoxy, poured black diamond epoxy into the silhouette (unfortunatly the camera does not pick up the sparkles) let that tack up, added another clear layer of epoxy to the entire pic. Added my 3/4" 'tree frame' which are missing a few leaves here and there . I did carve some of the tree frame for fun after I scrollsaw cut it. Added one more layer of epoxy and done! I do want to thank all the folks who have helped me and encouraged me along the way. I did use @Dave Monk technique on "lifting the trees" out of the wood. I also looked at a lot of all of your great works (gallery and bragging rights) to get some of my ideas...Thank you!

Hi everyone. Just finished this Victorian clock. I want to thank Ron Johnson for getting me this pattern and giving me some tips on how to do it. I made two of them. One is Oak and one is Mahogany. I'm giving this one which is Oak to my granddaughter. whose birthday is June first. She'll be 31. It's a surprise. I think she'll like it. They measure 16 tall and 8 inch wide. The other one has a red dress.

I use as NEJE Master 2 Laser engraver/cutter to put my Logo on the back side of my work. I sign it with a pen before I apply a clear coat of lacquer or acrylic finish. The first pic shows the finished Logo on the back of a piece positioned in the NEJE Master 2. I went to this Logo becaues I have had people who purchased my work want a "personally signed original".

Just having "fan". Patterns from The Book of Fans - designs for stained glass by Leslie Sharp. Playing around with segmentation and adding shims for height. The boat is coloured with Unicorn Spit and coated with Osmo satin finish. The tulips are acrylic paint and coated with beeswax butter. Not sure what wood the boat is. Tulips cut from red oak. Both cut with #1 MG blade.

Hello Don, I have the AT535SS 21" scroll saw ( plus stand ) from Axminster tools here in the UK. I have had the saw for a couple of years now which I bought to replace an entry level 16" saw which I had been using. I am by no means an expert on scroll saws so all I can really offer are my own experiences so far. I don't know how the saw compares to say a DeWalt or Pegas for example as I have no experience with these saws. However, I am very happy with my AT535SS. I would say the saw has minimal vibration, is well built and quiet. The tilting table as opposed to a tilting arm is a nice feature which I prefer. The saw has the Pegas blade clamps as well which also seem of very good quality. I do not have a foot switch but may look into getting one in the future if they are available. The after sales service from Axminster tools is also very good, I also purchased one of their belt / disc sanders and have also found it to be a reliable machine for what I need. Sorry I cannot offer more "experienced scroll saw user " advice but I hope this helps in some way. Regards, Alan.