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They say when you get older, you build birdhouse.....well here's mine....a wren birdhouse......church themed.....1-1/8" hole....left a gap under the roof for ventilation.....side swings out for cleaning.....scrap 3/4" plywood......I cut the steeple with my DW

I stumbled upon this video of Fiona Kingdon doing epoxy pours in her scroll saw projects. Those of us interested in epoxy pours in scroll saw projects might get something out of this, I certainly did.

I ordered some blades from Artcrafters last Friday evening and I received them today. Thats pretty fast shipping from Tennesse to Iowa with a holiday throwed in there.This is the first time I ordered from them and I will be ordering from them whenever I need blades.

I've also gotten good service from Denny

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOcDPLf3NUs&ab_channel=ArtisanPirate Hey Everyone And Happy Memorial Day If Your In The USA! In this scroll saw project video we make this amazing Classic Fretwork Corner Shelf that is themed to birds! The pattern uses 1/4 inch material and the pattern is from the Big Book Of Scroll Saw Woodworking by Fox Chapel Publishing. I think every scroller eventually makes a classic corner shelf! Hope you all like the video! #ArtisanPirate

I need a clock for my shop. A few weeks ago I asked, in PATTERN REQUEST, if anyone had a pattern for clock face for a shop clock that depicted Scrolling. Did not get any usable responses so I decided I needed to make my own. I believe I adopted the pattern of a “Person at a Scroll Saw” from Steve Good’s library quite a while ago, which I have been using to make my “Scroll Saw Art by Frank” signs and I have also included it in my Logo. I figured I could adapt the pattern by adding some bridges to make it a negative cutting and wrap the clock face hour numerals around it. I found a simple clock face I liked on-line. This is what I came up with. The clock face is a 10” diameter 5/32” thick solid core Maple cut panel affixed to a 10” diameter 1/4” BB Ply Backer painted rattle can Flat Black. The Pattern starts out as an 11” x 11” square. I cut the disk out after the cut panel and backer are glued together. The numerals were cut using a Pegas #0 Spiral Blade and the center pattern using a Pegas #3 MGT R blade. The assembled disk was protected with multiple coats of clear spray Acrylic finish. I purchased a “High Torque Long Shaft Quartz HR1688 Clock Movement Mechanism Replacement Clock Kit with 5.4 Inch Long Spade Hands for DIY Handicrafts Repair Clock Parts Shaft Lengths 22.5mm / 0.89 inch” for $9.49 from Amazon. I had used this item for the Dragon Clock I made a while ago that had a larger diameter and made athe mistake of just reordering the same one. The hands are too long for this smaller diameter clock. I should order new shorter hands, but probably won't bother. I made this clock too quickly and there are lots of goofs in both the cutting and finishing, but it will do for hanging in my shop. I will post the pattern in New Pattern Announcements’. Comments welcome but you can skip the critiques.

" I have had problems with tear out on top, and fond out I had the blade in upside down. I hope this wasn''t your case' " That will certainly cause problems. The workpiece will be very hard to hold down against the table too. I'm certain that everyone who has been a scroller has done this a time or two (maybe more). Yes, I have done it too. I now rub my finger over the teeth to be sure that I have it right, since I need optics to see the teeth now. Have you ever put the blade in with the teeth on the back side? (I've done this too, but less often). Old age and eyesight causes things like this. It's just something for private laughter inside you when it happens. Fix it and move on, after enjoying this little bit of personal old-age humor. Charley

Denny is quick and a pleasure to deal with.

Between the table and project, most anything with a small hole in it will work, but it needs to be attached to the table so it doesn't move with the project while cutting. Thin and sturdy with a small hole is what you need. My original was very thin plywood large enough to let me attach strips of wood under the edges and against the edges of the saw table to keep it from moving. Now, many pieces of thin plywood later, I don't use scraps of plywood that large and use double sided tape to hold it to the table now. All you need is something to hold the wood fibers up close to the cut so the blade can't deflect them as it's cutting. The down stroke is usually the problem, but if you are having it on the up stroke, something like clear packing tape against the top surface of the wood with the pattern attached to the top of it can work, but nothing will work top or bottom if the plywood isn't made well. Charley

They are also 40% lighter than the old clamps as the ones on the EX21.

After two failed attempts at pouring resin, I cut this for the third time. This time in red oak. I opted to put a plexiglass cover on it rather than attempting another resin pour. It is a gift for my 5 year old grandson who has become a Star Wars fanatic. He watches with his dad, my son, who knows where the scary parts are and my sweet grandson covers up his eye till daddy says it's over. I love listening to him talk about Star Wars. He pronounces Luke, Wute, and he really likes The Umpire Strikes Back. Thanks to everyone who gave me advice about the resin pouring. Maybe I'll try again sometime. Maybe not.

I was trying to figure out what mat she had behind her piece for the pour. Between the mat and strong clamping she avoided any leakage.

I really like yours! Well done!

For me the difference was: You can actually see in that gap between the thumb screw and set screw to see "where" the top of the blade is.. so you can see the screws clamping the blade. Also my EX-21 clamps had a top to the gap that if for whatever reason one blade was longer you'd have to cut it or readjust the saw to fit the odd blade.. The Pegas clamp is a open slot so if you wanted to clamp a hacksaw blade, LOL I guess it might be possible, For me it is a better experience to use the Pegas clamps over the original EX ones.. I can't say I noticed any difference in vibration as per the claim of less.. I think if one tunes their saw they can achieve just as smooth operation from either clamp style.. so I wouldn't rush to just go buy the Pegas clamps unless you are having some issue with the original ones.. Just my opinion though..

What was the biggest difference? I'm not having any problems, per se. Of course I get the occasional blade slip and then I dress the screw tip and go on, until it begins again. I get a little vibration, with some blade speeds, but that is typical of most variable speed saws. At the moment, I don't intend to replace my clamps, but I'm leaving the option open, if I'm convinced that upgrading to the Pegas would be demonstrably better.

Looking forward to your review.

As far as I know, there is no measurable evidence. It seems logical with less weight on the end of the arm, less vibration.

That is a very good question. I bought mine because I was having issues with my stock EX21 clamps. I didn't do a lot of research. Of course, they fixed my problem, but the difference was amazing. If you are happy with what you have, keep them. If you are having a problem and need to replace them, buy the Pegas clamps. I don't think you can find a non-Chinese factory replacement for the EX21 clamps.

Is there any evidence that this is actually a benefit and if so, how much? I know it sounds logical that it would reduce wear and vibration, but is there anything other than anecdotal evidence to that effect? Even Steve Good, in his review, while conceding that less weight was probably better, seemed less than convinced that there was real, measurable benefit from the lighter clamps. Again, I'm not trying to run down the Pegas clamps. Lots of folks like them and there must be good reason. I'm just trying to understand if there is a practical benefit to replacing the clamps on my EX-21.

Congratulations. I remember going from a Craftsman little scrollsaw that I had to have two tools to change the blade and you could only clamp the blade in the bottom clamp while on your knees, and two tools. I went to a refurbished Dewalt. What a thrill, what a difference. Enjoy your new saw.

Well I took the plunge and purchased the Wen LL2156 21 inch Scroll saw. This fell into my budget so I took a chance. I have used it a few days now and it is like driving a Cadillac compared to the saw that I had before. I am very happy with the $370 Wen saw and I will keep a full review again in a few months.

I have had problems with tear out on top, and fond out I had the blade in upside down. I hope this wasn''t your case'

I have cut a few of these and used black for the backer board. I like the blue you used

great idea

Usually when I make pattern I study the object of pattern, I am look throught a lot of images, in this case I also listen some tracks and I like it. Do you listen country music? What do you recommend, I think I like modern country more. And here is preview of my new pattern: 4 layers, recommended size: 7,5 x 8 inches, 1/8 - 1/6 inch thickness pattern at https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA

I'm thinking of changing the name of the User Gallery. It seems a little formal or impersonal. I'm thinking maybe Member Gallery? Waddya think?

That's been well established, at least if forum posts over the past couple years are any indication. I'm just looking for the "why".