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Not sure where this should be posted, sorry if I put it in the wrong place. I just finished this 3 layer wedding gift for a very special customer. It is a great Sue Mey pattern that I made some modifications to, I put the cross on a base and personalized it for the bride and groom. The face piece is Sugar Maple and the back piece is Purple Heart, the styalized arms for the cross are Cherry. I put it on a base of Sapele and the names were cut from Cherry. Thanks Sue, for a great pattern. Thanks for looking. Rick

Parrots in Tree and Peacock and Flowers are two stencils I converted and resized for use with a Scroll saw. These cuttings have taken me a long time to complete because, as you all know, life gets in the way sometimes. My “in-shop-time” has been very limited over the past months due to some minor medical problems and the need to get some long overdue chores completed around my home. Priorities, priorities! Parrots in Tree is 5/32” x 9” x 10” Maple solid core ply mounted on an oversized 1/4” thick painted backer. The backer is intended to be 11” x 12”, but mine was not cut correctly, thus the narrower boarder you see in the picture. My goof! There are two versions of the Peacock and Flowers patterns, a more inclusive overall image and the enlarged partial Image I chose to cut. My cutting is 5/32” x 11” x 17” Birch solid core ply affixed to a ¼” x 11” x 17” painted backer. The backers are painted with Artist Acrylics and are a combination of hand painting and an Air Brush painting. I’ve just begun to experiment with the use of the Air Brush. So far, I’m liking how the colors look. All cutting was done with Pegas #2/0 and #0 spiral blades, and as usual, the assembled panels are finished with multiple coats of a Clear Gloss Acrylic Protective coating. Frames are my typical 1 3/4” wide premium grade Pine finished with Minwax Mission Oak Poly-Stain. Comments and critiques are always welcome. I'll post the patterns in "Pattern Exchange".

The other day I was going trough a drawer looking for something and came across an accessory to a combination scare I have. I think it was something to measure depth, like a depth gauge. I never really figured it out and never used it for anything. But the old brain clicked on and I took a hacksaw to it and made the best tool I have come up with to check the 90° of my scroll saw blade. I cut it so it would fit either way, short or tall. The combination square it went with was a cheap one. Anyway check out you combo squares, there are other parts on them that could easily be cut to fit.

I don't use a square. I just do the time-tested method of cutting a kerf in one side of a block and then spinning it around to the backside of the blade and check it to make sure it slides in the groove. After doing this a couple of times and then checking with a machinist's square, I found that it is always dead on. And, I have more than enough scraps.

And is much easier to get out of than a traditional Adirondack style! I've made about a dozen or so. My latest version doesn't have any screws holding the arms in place. I drill holes on the bottom side of the arms and use dowels and glue.. gives it a cleaner look.

Neil Diamond's song, Play Me, came on the radio the other day and it inspired this cutting. After reading some other opinions and listening to it about a dozen times while cutting it, for me, it's about the relationship between him and his guitar and maybe sometimes music as a whole. If you disagree, you're right too. I'll add the pattern to the library.

Like you, I am a frequent checker of all things square. I got it on Amazon for about $10. Antrader Machinist Square, 2-Inch.

Never know I suppose it could work better. My thinking is that it's probably not going to make much if any difference because the set screw is just stationary while the thumb screw is the one you spin / turn to clamp the blade down. I think this spinning insert is to help prevent blade bending when getting clamped.. Though I have had saws that don't have the swivel end inserts and not had any issues with bent blades etc. Though to be a fair comparison those saws have what I would call floating blade chucks where the chuck pivots on a roll pin or similar where the EX and DW saws have a pretty ridged blade chuck holder to the arm, if that makes any sense.

Don't know how I ended up posting 2 pictures, maybe one of the 3 thumbs I have got in the way.

I use to do a lot of work with a coping saw but never had a scroll saw til now. The wife bought a Wen for fathers day but its still in the box because I'm not allowed to open til then lol. Looking forward to getting back into some woodworking which i have been away from for about 10 years.

I saw this cross posted on Etsy and saved a photo of it to my pictures about 3 or 4 months ago. I finally found the time to make it and I could not find the piece again to see about buying the pattern so I just made a pattern from it. The one I saw was made with different colors of wood inset that was so beautiful but as I got into it I began to realize it was going to be more than I was willing to try so just cut out the skeleton pattern I had made and call it good. I thought it was so pretty the was it was in the photo I downloaded but since I turned away from what I really intended to do, I found I still liked it the way it turned out. I just hope when my wife returns home the middle of July, she too will like it. Dick heppnerguy

You will get better old habits are very hard to break.

I wasn't so fussy about it until I tried doing intarsia. Then it became pretty important. Watching it closely is helping me correct a problem I have, but didn't realize it until I started intarsia and that is pushing the blade to one side and causing a "Not" 90° cut. I am improving but a hard habit to overcome. I check the blade for squareness, then check my cut for squareness, very often.... Getting better.

Well Purple heart is not really lavender to me but it is the only real purple wood I know of. When I have used it and finished it with an oil finish it has turned more of a cranberry color, pretty for sure, but not purple. And over time it will turn a deep brownish color. I have seen some purple tinted wood in popular but is is more like streaks than a piece of purple. So if you really want lavender like @Dave Monk, statedt to stay somewhere near lavender, paint is the only thing I know or some of the color from some other coloring media I am not familiar with. There are some weird named ones out there.. Oh, I just remembered one,,, unicorn spit, or something like that.

How big a piece of wood do you need? Is this a one off for an intarsia? A small fretwork box? There are two wood types that should grow in your area ( Wash st ) Box elder (mostly streaky) and Lilac (you would need larger specimens that are being removed or larger limbs being removed. I don't know of any commercial wood that would have the light purple.

The closest I could find is "Purple Heart". The ones I bought actually are quite purple with brown undertones from Oochwood. It does darken more after a while. A place I also order from in Canada is, even more, purple KJP. Bloodwood is another, though more on the red side, but like purple heart, it is a bear to cut it is so hard, dulls blades fast. https://kjpselecthardwoods.com/products/s4s-purpleheart-lumber?_pos=3&_sid=19ed7ecf5&_ss=r

WOW, just WOW

Very well done don't have an airbrush to try.

Beautiful pieces, Frank. I wish I had half the ability to use an airbrush as you.

Great job Frank! I love the ways the colors pop. If you are willing to share your technique on how to put the paint in the proper places and alignment on the backer, I would love to learn

I love to use the air brush but it can be a pain to keep clean. But I can see where you airbrushed since it really adds depth and so pretty. Very beautiful!

I have a few squares but I really only trust my Groz machinist square.

Very nice pictures.

I have a couple small squares....PEC and Groz. They are dead on. My woodworking squares are very good and good enough for most woodworking.

I have a collection of squares. A few years ago, I decided to test all my squares and eliminate anything out of square. I got a big surprise. A Stanley over 40 years old and bought out of a clearance bin at a lumber store was dead on. A 12-inch plastic rafter square currently selling for $4.99 at Harbor Freight was dead on. A 12-inch combination square, I got free in one of those deals where you qualify for a gift when placing an order was dead on. An adjustable try square I got free when placing an order was dead on at 90 degrees, and as far as I could determine, it was correct for all the preset angles. A cheap 12-inch framing square that was the first square I ever purchased more than 40 years ago was dead on, and considering how low my income was then, I would be shocked if I paid $5 for it. None of my most expensive squares was square. I tested them by using a Starrett straight edge and a granite plate.

And now.. Back to the original topic.... Great idea with the square. I routinely check my blades to make certain they are correct. It makes a big difference when cutting things like puzzles.

Fabulous work Charlie. I got the Hot August Night album for my 21st and my eldest daughter got the CD for her 21st. I gave her a great taste in music. Marg

Very nice chair. I have always wanted to make a few. I especially like that yours rocks.

Nice! I bought a small square to check my blades. It wasn't square,, the square, not the blade. I guess you get what you pay for. I'm going to take your post as an open invitation to post my own jigs! LOL I have about 4 or 5 jigs just for making my Adirondack style rocking chairs. I thought that I invented this first one, but turns out I didn't. In my head, I'm still gonna say that I invented it! I call it the Bow Jig. I use it to make the curve at the top of the back slats on the chairs. It is adjustable for different sizes of "arches". I cannot find a picture of it but I'll include a pic of the back slats. I also made my own tapering jig which is also used on the back slats. I think I have 2 other jigs just for making the chairs also.

They are not Glued yet. For Comparison sake WHICH TYPE WOULD BE YOUR Favorite? The pattern has many Changes that I made before Scrolling. The Black look ....OR.... Red ? Any and All comments are Always welcome. Danny :+}

Finally got my #3 blades in the mail and started on this. 3/4" Pine with the Horse letters of the pattern still on. Another Steve Good piece. This will add to our granddaughter's collection, who has a bazillion toy horses already. This was fun to do and I'm sure I'll be making more puzzles.

I am still learning about working with epoxy. The Tree of Life is my second attempt. The wood is 1/4" mesquite. Drips & Dragons is a Fiona Kingdon pattern I had cut a year or so ago. I had been trying to figure out how to finish it and this sounded right for it. The wood is 1/4" Monkeypod.

Work in progress, Fiona Kingdon's "Any Port In The Storm" pattern from the spring SSWWC magazine. Always wanted to cut one of hers! FD 2/0 blades, VERY slow speed, 3/16 ply. Got the last layer on the saw as we speak. Very thin, fragile piece, there's no zipping from one cut to the next. This one you DEFINITELY want to plan ahead so that every spot ends with you cutting along a section of wood that's adjacent to an uncut area, for stability. I had one spot snap because I wasn't paying attention to the direction I started the cut, just went my normal counter-clockwise and ended up having it break on me. Two others cracked as I was removing the pattern but were fixable with a little wood glue. This one took a while to cut......I'd guestimate about 15 hours or so, because I wasn't rushing anything and temperatures have dropped down into the single digits and even with two heaters going, the fan blowing sawdust out of the way just made my fingers start hurting. So, basically....it was an awesome time!

This project was created on a cut-off from another piece of tiger maple with a defect in the left upper corner, A knot with a hole in the center was used to create the moon. The mountain simulation used tracings of the wood grain. Dick

After two failed attempts at pouring resin, I cut this for the third time. This time in red oak. I opted to put a plexiglass cover on it rather than attempting another resin pour. It is a gift for my 5 year old grandson who has become a Star Wars fanatic. He watches with his dad, my son, who knows where the scary parts are and my sweet grandson covers up his eye till daddy says it's over. I love listening to him talk about Star Wars. He pronounces Luke, Wute, and he really likes The Umpire Strikes Back. Thanks to everyone who gave me advice about the resin pouring. Maybe I'll try again sometime. Maybe not.

My 6 year old grandson has become a Star Wars fanatic so I cut this for him. It was going great but it had so many tiny parts, toothpick sized light sabers, I decided to do my second ever resin pouring to protect it. It looked beautiful for a few moments. Won't go into detail but hundreds of bubbles started coming out from under the layers just as it was heating up/hardening. Too late to use the heat gun again. I made a bigger mess pulling the top hardened layer off to see if anything was salvageable. Stuff's a nightmare to get off your hands. On the bright side I got the pattern for $2 from this site for paper cutting, Kricut machines that has tons of patterns similar to this that would make cool scroll saw projects. Some with several layers. https://lightboxgoodman.com/products/kirigami-star-wars-1-paper-cutting?variant=36701434249378&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google+shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwpayjBhAnEiwA-7enayNJvEBM0RG4SdyNJlu2cKNhjTWIP2B7cobCu93gYazShLBlnG7EwRoC2kwQAvD_BwE

Usually when I make pattern I study the object of pattern, I am look throught a lot of images, in this case I also listen some tracks and I like it. Do you listen country music? What do you recommend, I think I like modern country more. And here is preview of my new pattern: 4 layers, recommended size: 7,5 x 8 inches, 1/8 - 1/6 inch thickness pattern at https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA

Did you say “ Sure I can super size it. Can you super size the check “. Lol

Don't know of any. You might have to go with a stain.