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Eagle Owl pattern by Jacob Fowler found in Woodworker's Pattern Book. I used 1/2" Cherry approximately 6" x 10". The base is unknown wood. I used Pegas #1 MGT blades and cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw. After sanding, dipped in diluted Shellac. Another light sanding with a Mac Mop and then one coat spray Lacquer clear satin. Comments welcome.

The wife has been visiting family in PA and I was fortunate enough to stay home and take care of the fur babies. It also allowed me time to finish some projects I kept putting off. The old car is a pattern by Grampa. I cut two and placed the "face" side of the wood together when I stacked to see if that would help with reducing the delamination issues.... it didn't! They are cut on 1/4-inch Birch. After using watercolor to paint the painted piece I used Minwax Ipswich stain and found that does the best covering up the delamination. The backers are black painted Pine. The frames are pre-finished framing material cut to fit. The deer scene is a Steve Good pattern, Both are 1/4-inch Birch, one painted and the other Minwax Ipswich. A black Pine backer which has a painted cardboard bird and moon painting glued over the cut-outs in the backer. The last was a request for Mother's Day for someone that never returned to pick it up. It is a Steve Good pattern cut on 1/4-inch Maple ply stained with Minwax Espresso. The Lauan backer is 1/4-inch and stained with Minwax Natural. I've got a couple projects in the making, one I've already started and another I'm waiting on the new saw to arrive to start that one. Both

Ok folks, I ordered one. After I install it and have a few days using it, I will review it.

That doesn't work for a 6x48 belt sander.

It is now hanging next to the door of my shop.

Yes, I totally have given up on those spiral blades....Not for me. I use the 2/0 most of the time for my stuff and it works so much better. Plus those spiral blades have a mind of their own...at least for me...reminds me of sewing velvet on the sewing machine....kind of takes off where you don't want to go...I just hate when I sew a sleeve shut!

I updated again. As always, let me know if you see anything strange. Strange people are OK, though.

You didn't stick with it? How tacky.

Not sure what you call what I am doing since I am making this up as I go along. My apologies for the glare... Again, I used @Dave Monk technique for raising the vines out of the wood. I used 3/4 inch Walnut, Purple heart, Red heart (which turned kind of orange-ish) and Yellow heart which I inlayed into the walnut before scrollsawing and then carving. It has multiple layers of epoxy for depth while I was painting. I chose the grapes because my son-in-law loves a good wine and my daughter, Molly, loves flowers I hope you can guess where they were married Comments and suggestions are always welcome.

EX21 and Pegas have steel tables. You would need strong magnets. I recently tried holding my vacuum hose on the bottom of the table with a hard drive magnet that will hold up an 18lb dumbbell, and that didn't work. An open-ended vacuum hose clamped under the table works well. However, it is very tricky to keep it in place. I have been playing with this because I recently bought a Dustopper, and when I hooked it up to my Pegas scroll saw it wadded up the bucket.

I know that - said it wrong, meant to ask if it would affect the ability and limits of the head tilting. James answered the question I intended to ask.

I use E6000 all the time. A little goes a long way. I have glued wood to wood (painted), glass to glass, metal to wood and glass to wood with no problems. If I am doing a really small piece then I use a toothpick to apply the glue. Can be bought at walmart, and any craft store.

I just yesterday started a round of wood to wood and wood to metal projects with E6000. Seems to a great job, but is a lot like some of the tube style glues from the past--it can be runny. (I'm looking at you, ghost of DuPont Duro).

My specialty is boxes bowls & baskets. This is my pride & joy so far.

My DC system.

For the most part, the scroll sawing on basic bowl shapes is fairly straight forward. To make these bowls, one must have a pretty high tolerance for sanding though.

I think this will work. Loc-Line 80813 Shop Vacuum Kit, 2.5", Blue/Orange I use a shop vacuum because I have a CleanStream filter that filters 0.3 microns, and my dust collector is 10 microns. Testing in my shop with my tools, I find that this works better than the dust collector, which catches the big stuff (chips), but the fine stuff goes right through the ten-micron bag. I don't have any tools with a 4-inch connector.

Here are the part numbers, I ordered from MSC Industrial Supply (mscdirect.com) I have 2 1/2 inch dust collection hose with a y that goes to top and bottom. Locline is expensive but it works well. I have a valve on the bottom portion so I can throttle back the 3d printed bottom section when needed. The when needed part is typically when I first start cutting on some projects, before there is enough holes in the piece to suck air through. When you don't have many holes in the piece it can sometimes try to suck it to the table a little on my set up. I'm using a dust collector and haven't tried it on a shop vac, that could be different. Alternately you could not turn on the dust collection until after your first cut is made. Usually all it takes is one hole to stop it sucking to the table. If that makes sense.

This is something I have been working on for two years. I would work on it for awhile, get stuck on something and then come back later. It was a combination of a plan and actual drawings of the car. A lot of different tools were used but many cut with my scrollsaw. The fenders were compound cut and then shaped. The difficult part was fitting the fenders to the curved body. The Spoke wheels were a huge challenge and I made many bad ones before figuring it out.L

Double stick tape!

Many times I have sprayed the back of the picture with spray adhesive 77 and put the backer on. Never had a problem.

I used to mow her lawn in Arcadia Ca. It was a huge lawn. $30/mo.

Thanks Bob I think that’s what I need to try

Slow down the speed of the blade. Make sure your blade is at 90 degrees to the table. Sides and back/front. Make sure you are not tensioning it too tight. Pluck to hear a high "C". By the same token make sure your blade is not tensioned to loose. No more than an 1/8th inch give when pushing your finger on the side. Do not push too hard. Feed the wood like you normally do, then just stop. Watch the blade, does it seem like you had pushed it back or to the side if it moves back to neutral position?

Well you know, It takes one strange person to recognize another.

Very Cool, marvelous work. I'm thinking I should cut a tree down so I can have a stump to work on.

I knew that! Just yankin' yer chain. Lol.

"Scroll Saw Wooden bowls" Amazon

Nice Work !! Very impressive sir.

I used this system for a long time. I still have one of those. It'll definitely work, it's tried and true for sure.

I've never tried to make a bowl with a scroll saw. I have with a lathe but that's a different story. I'd like to try it eventually, looks like a neat process.

Salvaging lumber from old furniture to use for scroll saw stock, I often find screw and nail holes that need addressing. I learned long ago that for blond woods, I can quickly take bamboo chopsticks or Dollar Tree bamboo kabob sticks, sand them on my disc sander to a cone shape, and clip them off at about 1/2 inch length with pruning shears. I dab them with glue and tap them into the screw or nail hole. They sand down easily and make for a solid fix that takes finish, screws, nails and stain well. My jet scroll saw doesn't know the difference between the plugs and the base wood. I don't mind if the plugs aren't a perfect color match, because I'm rescuing otherwise wasted material. And proud of that. Don.

great work

Great work .

They are all terrific. Very well done. Marg

A fun pattern to cut. Used watercolor pencils and acrylic paint for teeth. I did a little research on the pilots gear and it appears this is what a RAF pilot might wear in WW2. Anyway, hope everybody is doing well in these trying times. forrest

As always, excellent work!

very nice work!

She died. My buddy, who was my partner in the mowing business, got into a fight with her husband. Knocked him out. So, that ended that job.

I started using this a while ago and really like it, tacks up fast and really holds TITEBOND QUICK & THICK MULTI-SURFACE GLUE

Usually, I wear a level 5 cutting glove when sanding with my flex drum or belt when I am doing smaller parts. This time I slipped on the belt sanding a medium size part, I was trying to thin it out to 1/4 inch, part slipped, my fingers touched the belt nails only. Not the way to trim nails! No pain, no blood, but does feel a little strange.

Yeah, when I got the JGR flex drum on my bench grinder, I wore gloves as it is easy to skin the top of your hand/knuckles if you slip. But I do agree, it could potentially become problematic on power equipment. I have all my tools on dead-man foot switches. I always wear gloves when I am using my carving blades. I get mine from Amazon for $12.00 https://amzn.to/43VVqaM

Me too! I will have to get those gloves....where do you find them? Would love to used them when I do my carving!

This doesn't have much scroll saw work and so I did post this in 'Other Works" but I did the top window, door and doorway of this and also the "balcony" using my scroll saw but that is about it...but it is definitely outdoors

I'd be ecstatic if you'd let me make it a threesome. (not a menage a trois) When it comes to strangeness, according to my family and friends, I definitely qualify.

Hey Kevin, this is why I skipped the first week of the market, I wanted to see how it went. The organizers mandated gloves, but masks were optional, which quite honestly was pretty interesting as gloves don't do a thing unless you change them every time you touch something. However, when I went out there as a shopper the first day, none of the vendors were wearing gloves... very few wore masks. I have come up with how I plan on doing things in the new environment. I will ask that folks not touch any of the puzzles, I'll stand them up, etc if they'd like. I'll stand near the back of my tent at first with my mask down so that I can speak to them, give my "pitch", then I'll slide it on if/when I need to approach any closer. As to payments, I can hold the credit card reader, they can slide their card in. No cross-touching of anything, no signature required. If paying cash, i will have 2 small boxes, one for them to place their money in and if they need change, I'll have another box with 5's and 10's that they can get their change from (with me supervising of course). I'll have sanitizer and wipes for anyone to use as I hand them their purchase. When I get home I will strip down in the garage and drop my clothes in the washing machine and step right into the shower to avoid bringing any cooties home to the wife. Or screw it, I'll just go with this option...

This may be true, but the RoadRunner just loves Acme

I asked my cat and she didn't like either. But that's a cat for you!

I'm with Kevin I like the look of the metal hooks. The pegs do "blend in" nicer though for sure. Of the dozens of pieces I've sold so far, nobody had asked about a wooden peg option, so I know the metal hooks are liked. It will be interesting when I offer the option now what folks will lean towards. I just ordered 600 pegs so I'm counting on a few people wanting them. I don't even want to think about painting or staining them. I'm too lazy for stuff like that. LOL