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I found this B&W ‘High Noon Show Down’ image on-line and thought it would be a good Scroll Saw subject. I know there are few fans of Old West among the SVV members that might like it. I understand this is a scene from a movie/series of a while back of the same name. I never watched it. The conversion consisted of no more than resizing and inverting the image, so the cutout areas were red lines with grey fill. Added a few bridges to the pattern and I also found that I needed a few more bridges during cutting. I didn’t count, but there were a lot of holes. All cutting was done with Pegas #2/0 Spiral blades, except I used a Pegas #1 MGT R for the long straight cuts along the narrow 1/4” wide edges (under the frame rabbet). The cut panel is 5/32” x 11 x 14” solid core Walnut ply that was darkened with Minwax Dark Walnut stain. The cut panel was affixed to a 1/4” x 11” x 14” solid core Maple Ply backer that was left natural. This project is “Old School” - two tone wood, and it took a lot of will power on my part not to try and add color. The assembled panel was finished with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Spray Lacquer. The Frame is 1 3/4” wide Premium Pine rails sealed with non-wax containing Shellac, stained with Minwax Honey Maple Gel-Stain, and finished with two coats of Clear Minwax Satin Wipe-on Poly. Since I have been using Acrylic Paints and Polycrylic finishes recently, I almost forgot how long oil stain and Poly takes to dry - seems like forever. Comments and critiques always welcome. I’ll post the pattern in Pattern Exchange.

I use a pizza box. We always order pizza every Friday so I have a new box every week.

After some serious sewing projects for our boat, I finally got some time on the saw! 3/4 plywood of unknown woods. A gift from a friend. Used a #5mg blade. No finish on it yet. Actually, not sure what to use! Thoughts? I don't want to mess up the flexibility. 20230629_151731.mp4

Eagle Owl pattern by Jacob Fowler found in Woodworker's Pattern Book. I used 1/2" Cherry approximately 6" x 10". The base is unknown wood. I used Pegas #1 MGT blades and cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw. After sanding, dipped in diluted Shellac. Another light sanding with a Mac Mop and then one coat spray Lacquer clear satin. Comments welcome.

I only spray 3M-77 adhesive for attaching patterns to my panels OUTSIDE at my trash bins. Yes, I'm in Florida, but it really dosn't matter what temps as it only takes a minute or so to spray the pattern and panel. A hard rain is the only time I will put it off for a dryer time. Heavy wind can be a bother but I can usually deal with it. Once or twice I attempted to spray the adhesive inside and will never do it again. Overspray from just a very short application seems to get on everything in the shop. I always pre-attach my paper pattern to the panel with blue tape to form a hinge. After the quick spray of both surfaces, I just roll the pattern onto the panel, and then run back inside where I can make sure threre are no bubbles or wrinkles. I will spray finishes like Lacquer, Paint, Poly, etc. in my shop using heavy brown paper, I get at lowes by the roll which is intended for protecting floors during construction, to protect my bench and table saw (wich I often use as a table as space is a premium in my small shop) . I think it is 36" wide by a 100 or more feet. I forget the cost but its is not very expensive. .One piece of the browm paper can be use many times before needing to be discarded when overspray dust gets too messsy. While spraying any finish, I always raise my work with 1/4" thick wood strips that I save from panel cut offs I have painters points (plastic perimid shaped thingamjigs) that can be used but I can never find them when I need them. And I only have 4, so I often need more and the cut off strips are plentiful and lay in a pile on a shelf near my work bench. In my utility woork room in my house where I do most of my coloration using Artist Acrylic Paints, and most recently, applying with an Air Brush, I have set up a makeshift paint spray booth out of cardboard. No exhaust fan yet, but there are plans to install one now that I'm using the Air Brush. In the bottom of the booth I like to use cheap tissue paper as a work surface. A new piece under each new project is quite effective to catch any drips, spills, etc. The painting area gets very messy.

I also use newspaper. For those under the age of 40, newspapers are what your ancestors used to line bird cages with.

I take mine outside to spray. The weeds don't mind. And the time it takes to bring it back lets the glue dry just a bit before applying the pattern. I also have some of the full sheet shipping labels that Kevin mentioned and I use those often. No spray mess at all.

I use a flattened-out box with an open magazine or catalog on top of it. When the glue gets built up, I turn the page.

I have a pressboard around 18" x 30", leaning against my wood storage rack or band saw base. I tape a piece of news paper to the front. Attach the pattern to the news paper and spray the back of the pattern. Every once and a while I replace the new paper.

Over the years I’ve collected a number of plastic pieces used to elevate the center of a pizza box lid. I use those to set patterns or boards (e.g. for puzzles) on to elevate them off the work table surface. As far as keeping the work table clean I cover mine with an oversized piece of cardboard. If it gets too filled with overspray just find another box.

Was Gandhi sleeping on it? Sorry, I could not resist. My bad! What are you applying glue to? Like spraying glue on patterns or gluing pieces of wood together? I agree I have seen them for painting, but not for glueing.

I cut up Amazon boxes. We always have plenty of them.

Are you using spiral blades or flat / straight blades.. I've broke spirals before but I don't really recall ever breaking a flat blade.. I'd say tension is the issue if you're talking about a real small blade but you mentioned a #2. Did you mean 2/0? I'm asking specifics because any #2 blade shouldn't break very easy and especially when just applying tension. The only time I did break some blades of this size was due to a bad batch of blades slipping past quality control.. a note to my supplier turned out to be a known issue with many complaints and replacement blades were mailed to me.. SO with that said it can be a blade quality issue and nothing to do with the saw or its user.. I have seen this with both Flying Dutchman and Pegas blades from time to time over the 20 ish years I've been scrolling..

#2/0 blades will break if you look at them funny Tensioning is the problem. I do not play with my tensioning knob. I keep it set whehe I have found it works for all blades, and it is taped in place because it tends to want to adjust itself. For #2/0 blade, after threading it through the dill hole being very careful not to kink it as that will cause it to break quickly also, I hold the blade slightly bent between my thumb and forefinger while tightening the top clamp. This causes the blade to be a little longer between the clamps. Then, while fliping the tensioning lever, I "feel" to make sure there is not too much tension and will stop if it "feels" tooooo tight. This feel takes practice and experimenting with, but it does work (at least for me). You just can not, and it is not needed to, tension a 2/0 blade as tight as larger blades. Also, I'm hard of hearing so the plucked "ping" just does not work for me. If the blade does not break while fliping the tensioning lever over, it should be OK if you don't push too hard or run the saw at too high a speed. And ,of course, 2/0 blades do not like to be turned in corners. I use the double cut method to make a neat sharp inside point, creating a space in the work that you can turn the work without twisting the blade. I find both small regular and spiral blades break most often because they get kinked during the threading task. Tiney holes for small blades are great if doing vaining or the like, but a litter bigger hole makes threading without kinking much easier. All above just my 2 cents, for what it's worth.

Waxed paper

Sasho contributed the pattern for this to our library about a year ago. To me, it's both sad and happy at the same it. I immediately cut it, but only this week got around to framing 'Life' and it now hangs over my desk. The foreground, the background, and the frame are all quarter-sawn white oak.

Jik and i made a pattern of Tina

I saw a board once a while back with a bed of nails sticking up through it used for gluing. I don't remember where I saw it ... Anyway, what does everyone use for spraying glue? Getting kind of tired of my work table being sticky.

OK, so I just came in from 30. minutes of cutting arcs, circles, lines to no where, and the #2 didn't even falter. I tried to do much of the tensioning that was mentioned here. I did not know if I was doing it right, but it works and I'm not changing the tensioning knob at all now. Thanks

Don't we all!

I definitely see Clint Eastwood. Nice scene, guys with guns. Good job.

Thats funny I'm 42, I remember newspapers they used to me good for reading too. Not much to the few that still exist though. I do get enough junk mail to use for this purpose though. Lol

Back off your tension knob a bit more and don't try taking the slack out of the mechanism. I usually pull down on the upper blade clamp when applying the tension lever and I was breaking blades too. I stopped doing that with the small blades and my breakage went way down.

In no particular order I would: Contact your blade source and see if there is a bad batch that they know about check the linkage on your saw and see if anything is binding (If a pivot point binds the blade tension can release just long enough for the blade to kink and then break) check to see if the tension is being held. Run the saw for 10 to 15 seconds and then check the tension again (plucking). If the tension is not being held, that a whole nother discussion.

The first blade I put in that afternoon, yes, I over tensioned it for sure, as it broke as I put the lever over. But I then paralleled the upper arm to the table and started again with the same results, so I lessened the tension a bit more and still 2 more times it broke. That was when I got frustrated. Granted the next day I had no more problem with it, but..... I went to a #3 blade and have not tried the #2 again, I should go try that and see what happens.

Not sure what you call what I am doing since I am making this up as I go along. My apologies for the glare... Again, I used @Dave Monk technique for raising the vines out of the wood. I used 3/4 inch Walnut, Purple heart, Red heart (which turned kind of orange-ish) and Yellow heart which I inlayed into the walnut before scrollsawing and then carving. It has multiple layers of epoxy for depth while I was painting. I chose the grapes because my son-in-law loves a good wine and my daughter, Molly, loves flowers I hope you can guess where they were married Comments and suggestions are always welcome.

@MarieC, that is a stunning heirloom piece. As @FrankEV mentioned, you should absolutely add information on the back.

Wow! 1/8" you can cut with sewing thread. Something is wrong. 2/0 should even work well. I think you're just over-tensioning.

Might cost a little more but I avoid the spray adhesive by using full sheet shipping labels.. It's convenient to print, peel, and stick... Not sure how many years I used the labels to mail my products before the light bulb went off to print the patterns on them too.. but it was a while, .. I built a brand new shop in 2012 and didn't want the over spray of that spray glue all over my newly painted concrete floor or all over the walls etc.. so somewhere around that time is when that light lit up.. duh.. LOL.. I still use spray glue for those designs that do not fit on one sheet but that is rare for the projects I make typically fit one sheet easily. I also make use of the full sheet if there is room I'll edit patterns to fill a full sheet.. most times for what I do I can get at least two projects on one sheet of paper.. ornaments are typically 6 per sheet. Anyway, it works for me.. your situation may be different and the spray might be a better option. I sure don't miss fussing with clogged nozzles and having sticky fingers every day.. Edit to add: If you buy in bulk off eBay or Amazon they aren't too much money compared to the small packages of them at the box stores.. Also of you regularly do larger projects and have a large format printer then you can buy full sheet adhesive papers in the 11 x 17 size or pretty much any size.. I did that back when I had a large format printer.. Google will help find where to get those from.

All great ideas !!

Spray glue for applying patterns.

I have used a nail board for painting, but never thought of it for gluing. But, I don't do a lot of that type of gluing.

where are the blade breaking? at the top clamp. the bottom clamp, the middle, or various?

Quite true. However, the Shopsmith 6X48 belt sander, when used, is fitted with a shop vac hose.

Ray Great looking bowl I can see why it is your pride and joy.

Ray, this is the first time i seen that, that is beautiful you have done an excellent job on that, where did you get the design, RJ

Yes sir, using ⅛" ply have not had any blowouts lately.

Marg, thank you so much....my biggest problem is I am too much of a perfectionist so I am constantly redoing things which of course takes a lot longer...but I do really like this type of wood art. thanks again!

I updated again. As always, let me know if you see anything strange. Strange people are OK, though.

You didn't stick with it? How tacky.

My friends own a restaurant named Railroad Street Steak House. I cut this Steve Good pattern of a train as a gift for them. They said they would hang it in a special place and I asked if it would be the bathroom. It was cut on Birch with a Pine backer. The Birch was stained with natural. The frame is pre-finished framing material cut to size. The two dog leash holders are from a Steve Good pattern cut in Pine. One is stained with Espresso and the other Ipswich. All three pieces were finished with 4-coats of Polyacrylic with light sanding between coats.

I did an inlay of a batman logo and this is the off-cut side. Not bad. I'll post the good side soon, the glue is drying on it still.

This doesn't have much scroll saw work and so I did post this in 'Other Works" but I did the top window, door and doorway of this and also the "balcony" using my scroll saw but that is about it...but it is definitely outdoors

First you get absent minded. Next thing you know, you start forgetting to unzip to pee. jerry

The worst part of course is telling us!!

Now that you have changed the orientation on your system, make sure the blades are going in right also!

SCROLL SAW CHALLENGE: Cut a pattern with the scroll saw upside down. If you can do it, NASA may want to talk to you about scroll sawing in space. RJF

Has anyone ever use wood glue to hold the pieces together. I tried it yesterday—just a tiny drop in each corner and clamp for five minutes. It worked like a charm. For me, the significant advantages are: No tape used to snag or cause the pies not to sit flat on the table. There is no gap between the layers because I squeeze any bow or cupping out with clamps, and there is nothing in between the layers.