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Got some hardwood “cookies” and decided to try to make a bowl out of them, so far 2 done. One of them the bark was not the best so I removed it and burned the edge. Having fun

This is my journey into doing intarsia. Learning as I go and certainly not using the more exotic woods that are available. Strictly pine and poplar so far using stains or paint for color. The actual order that I have done them is the Whale, Rooster, Goldfish, Butterfly, Apple and finally the Cat. Happy with my progress, but still much to learn.

Sometimes, it's the simplest of scroll saw projects that bring the most satisfaction. My first (and only) grandson, Liam, playing with the rattle I made for him. What's cool is the clothing was given as a gift from a Turkish officer I work with at NATO. He's about to become a first-time father, and not only did I make a puzzle and a car for his soon-to-be baby, but a near identical rattle just like this.

I found this B&W ‘High Noon Show Down’ image on-line and thought it would be a good Scroll Saw subject. I know there are few fans of Old West among the SVV members that might like it. I understand this is a scene from a movie/series of a while back of the same name. I never watched it. The conversion consisted of no more than resizing and inverting the image, so the cutout areas were red lines with grey fill. Added a few bridges to the pattern and I also found that I needed a few more bridges during cutting. I didn’t count, but there were a lot of holes. All cutting was done with Pegas #2/0 Spiral blades, except I used a Pegas #1 MGT R for the long straight cuts along the narrow 1/4” wide edges (under the frame rabbet). The cut panel is 5/32” x 11 x 14” solid core Walnut ply that was darkened with Minwax Dark Walnut stain. The cut panel was affixed to a 1/4” x 11” x 14” solid core Maple Ply backer that was left natural. This project is “Old School” - two tone wood, and it took a lot of will power on my part not to try and add color. The assembled panel was finished with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Spray Lacquer. The Frame is 1 3/4” wide Premium Pine rails sealed with non-wax containing Shellac, stained with Minwax Honey Maple Gel-Stain, and finished with two coats of Clear Minwax Satin Wipe-on Poly. Since I have been using Acrylic Paints and Polycrylic finishes recently, I almost forgot how long oil stain and Poly takes to dry - seems like forever. Comments and critiques always welcome. I’ll post the pattern in Pattern Exchange.

Another one of my color filled shield eagles that I cut from cherry. I filled this one with purple resin. It’s looks bluer in the photo.

The wife has been visiting family in PA and I was fortunate enough to stay home and take care of the fur babies. It also allowed me time to finish some projects I kept putting off. The old car is a pattern by Grampa. I cut two and placed the "face" side of the wood together when I stacked to see if that would help with reducing the delamination issues.... it didn't! They are cut on 1/4-inch Birch. After using watercolor to paint the painted piece I used Minwax Ipswich stain and found that does the best covering up the delamination. The backers are black painted Pine. The frames are pre-finished framing material cut to fit. The deer scene is a Steve Good pattern, Both are 1/4-inch Birch, one painted and the other Minwax Ipswich. A black Pine backer which has a painted cardboard bird and moon painting glued over the cut-outs in the backer. The last was a request for Mother's Day for someone that never returned to pick it up. It is a Steve Good pattern cut on 1/4-inch Maple ply stained with Minwax Espresso. The Lauan backer is 1/4-inch and stained with Minwax Natural. I've got a couple projects in the making, one I've already started and another I'm waiting on the new saw to arrive to start that one. Both

It's always fun watching our progress as we do more and learn. My effort has been focused on always nailing my lines, this minimizes fine fitting. If you look at my cuts between the purple and white wood, this has zero fine fitting/sanding, no stacking etc.... Just accurate cuts to the guideline. I just concentrated really hard and went slow, slow, slow.

After some serious sewing projects for our boat, I finally got some time on the saw! 3/4 plywood of unknown woods. A gift from a friend. Used a #5mg blade. No finish on it yet. Actually, not sure what to use! Thoughts? I don't want to mess up the flexibility. 20230629_151731.mp4

Sasho contributed the pattern for this to our library about a year ago. To me, it's both sad and happy at the same it. I immediately cut it, but only this week got around to framing 'Life' and it now hangs over my desk. The foreground, the background, and the frame are all quarter-sawn white oak.

Jik and i made a pattern of Tina

I recently posted the outdoor air pollution levels as we have had a lot of smoke from the Canadian Wildfires and showed unhealthy levels. I measured it with one like this that I saw on Amazon with the description and was about $49 "HOTKREM Air Quality Monitor pm2.5 pm10 pm1.0 Detector Indoor air Quality Test kit for Cars,Home,Office,Hotel etc (PM2.5,AQI)" Similar are available on Ebay for lower prices. I tried placing right next to my Hegner scroll saw and cut 1/4' Baltic Birch. The higher number was with my vacuum off and lower with it on. It shows the value of using dust collection on your saw especially if you are sawing for a long time. The smaller dust particles that are 1 um and smaller are not visible but still dangerous to your health especially if you are older. Next, I placed it beside my small belt sander and the numbers were very high as expected. Lastly, I placed it on my table saw and cut off the edge of 1/2 plywood several times with the following results. Kind of as expected, the belt sander was the worst for putting unhealthy dust in the air and points out that I need to get some dust collection on it. As a comparison, here is the air quality I experienced outside this week. It is worse for the PM2.5 than most things in my shop.

I added these lights (I added 2 but one would probably be sufficient) to my setup recently. I use them for extra light to see my cut lines by sometimes but mainly what they are useful for is fretwork. When threading the blade up through the bottom I can maneuver one of these bad boys around and I can see under the work. I found that it's usually dark under my work piece since it blocks all the light. They have on off switches at the head of the light to so you can move them out of the way and switch them off in one motion. I know everyone has their own solutions and this may not be the best one but I thought I'd share in case it helps anyone. Reading LED Light for Bedside Bedroom Wall Mount Adjustable Gooseneck https://a.co/d/eWzEmzE https://a.co/d/80eTh4A

Better than expected! Quite honestly, it really sucks now.

Intarsia not interstate lol

Try sandind to 600 grit. Remove dust well before applying linner. Press gently to remove any bubbles but do not emboss too much with a plastic squeegee or the like. Remove ASAP because the longer it is on the stronger the linner adhesive gets. This may all help but a better grade ply will make a real difference.

All are ART SHOW quality! FANTASTIC WORK!

Yes, I have a Pegas 21. I have already tried the method in the video. I was surprised to find the blade still tight enough after tensioning it. When his blade broke in the video, that was exactly what I was having. Thank you sir, much appreciated.

I have read your thread about the 3d part. That is one great solution. Several of us have built dust collection in other ways which are quite effective. There is always several ways to solve a problem.

@Gene Howe & @Scrappile Thank you for your nice comments. I used a FD #3 spiral blade. It cut really easy. Indeed it did not lay flat but that didn’t seem to be a problem. It didn’t burn when cutting and it didn’t stink, however I did wear a mask. The fellow who gave me the antler had it in his garden for years, so I’m thinking it must have been very dry and that’s why it was no problem to cut. The only problem I had was keeping the pattern stuck down, it kept lifting, super annoying. I’m going to give it back to the fellow who gave it to me.

I decided to create a new puzzle for my kids. I wanted it to be a 3D puzzle that is a bit more difficult to do as opposed to traditional 2D projects. And this is what came out in the end. Wooden Tuck 3d puzzle pdf plans.mp4

Eagle Owl pattern by Jacob Fowler found in Woodworker's Pattern Book. I used 1/2" Cherry approximately 6" x 10". The base is unknown wood. I used Pegas #1 MGT blades and cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw. After sanding, dipped in diluted Shellac. Another light sanding with a Mac Mop and then one coat spray Lacquer clear satin. Comments welcome.

Where I live, there may be more small particles outside than in my shop. I have been considering getting one just to satisfy my curiosity.

Looks great! I do interstate as well and you are off to a great start!!!

James, here's an idea for you for future models with magnets. Make a 3mm wide tab that goes across so it goes under the bottom blade holder safety arm. This is how I secured a piece of plywood, instead of that plastic sheet on my old collector. This way you have an additional way to secure. The only issue is how thick. I used 3mm wood, and when I ran my speed higher it would bang a little, thus I sanded grooves in to make it thinner. Not sure if I am clear in getting my idea out.

I gave it until the next morning

Nicely done.

That looks great Frank.

Now that's different. Great job.

There are all sorts of ways to capture dust and I encourage everyone to do the best they can. Personally, I use a HEPA rated vacuum for my scroll saw and smaller sanding operations. I also have an air cleaner. The point of this thread is to point out how much dust is put in the air by scrolling, sanding or table saw. Very few people will actually measure dust levels. You can not see the smaller particles such as 10 microns and down but they are present in large numbers and getting into your lungs.

This works well for me connected to my bandsaw . . .

Does anyone know if the dewalt saws have tables that a magnet would stick to? A.k.a steel. Or do they have aluminum beds? Wondering if a magnetic fitting would work on those to.

I agree. There are definitely many ways to solve the problem.

Preliminary tests on a version that uses magnets. I taped off my top vacuum so it wouldn't interfere with the results. I wanted to see how well it worked with just the bottom vacuum. Also many of the saws that could potentially use this magnet version (don't have 4 screw holes like the newer Excalibur, excelsior,pegas and king) don't have all the holes drilled around the blade either so I also taped them off. The results were pretty good. The attachment moves around a little with the magnets only so you'd have to secure your hose as not to have it pulling down on it. But once the vac comes on the vacuum holds it in place very well. I need a guinea pig with an old style Excalibur to send one too. Any volunteers? I'm looking at you @OCtoolguy ... lol

I found that a cardboard box with an open side and a piece of foam taped to the back of the box can catch the pieces the mop insists of grabbing and trying to throw across the room when sanding the edges on the drill press. When I get the saw and drill press set up again, I'll take a picture or two so you can see what I mean.

If you have a spray gun or airbrush, you could use a dye stain like Unicorn Spit. It can go @100% or you can cut it with water.

Finished this one this evening.

I grab boxes from Costco that are about 12x18 and a couple inches deep. I use them until they get glue build-up then toss them and grab another one. Any scrap of cardboard works.

Great work .

They are all terrific. Very well done. Marg

Thanks Frank. You hit it on the button with the cheap box store birch ply. I'm sure it isn't my blades. I use Pegas and almost never use a blade larger than a #1. Actually, my primary go to blade is the 2/0 either spiral or MGT. I typically sand to 320 before applying shelf liner. I've tried painters tape, straight glue and shelf liner and it seems the shelf liner works best for me... what I mean by best is that it causes less delamination. I'll have to try removing with the grain to see if that helps. Thanks again.

I crafted this plaque using ribbon striped (quarter sawed) sapele. When cutting the tree I set my saw at approximately a two degree angle. The tree worked well for this because it was one continuous cut. I pushed the tree out about 1/2 way and did a lot of sanding with a sanding mop. I'm very happy with the look.

All very nice. As to delamination. Was that Solid Birch wood or Birch Ply? Usually, delamination occurs when you remove the pattern if tape or liner is used. For this case I find very good sanding before application of the liner (what I use) minimizes tear out. Also, liner removal must be with the grain not against or across to insure no tearout. However, what you discribe, sounds like a problem with the wood itself. Box store birch ply is pure junk as far as I'm concerned, that is why I only use Columbia Solid Core Ply. Pricy but a much better quality. Or, another cause could be the blades you are using. Not the Brand, necessarily, but the number of teeth. More teeth the smoother the cut will be in whatever material you are using. Large blades with small number of teeth and slow saw speed will rip/tear the wood (especialy ply). JFYI, I use, almost ecclusively, spiral blades. I do get a lot of fuzzies on the back side but no, none, nada tear out or delamination. For long straight or curved lines I will often use a Pegas #1, 3, or 5 MGT R (depending on material thickness) with no noticable tearout. Hope this info might help.

Not really a subject matter I would cut, but I think you did a terrific job with it, both the cutting and coloring. I do not have the artistic ability to do coloring like that. Great job.

very nice work!

I did an inlay of a batman logo and this is the off-cut side. Not bad. I'll post the good side soon, the glue is drying on it still.

Very nice, I like the wood grain too of both woods

As promised. This is the better of the two pieces cut.

You have a great start and you believed in the wood workers saying of "You can never have to many clamps"! Like what you have done so far! Erv

I have been itching to cut another Eagle pattern but could not find an image that I liked or that had not been done by others. Since the Bald Eagle is our National Bird and the Emblem of our USA Nation, it is very fitting that it is often shown in various portrayals with the Stars and Stripes, our Grand American Flag. I found this Image of an Eagle that I liked, but it had a distressed Flag in the background that I did not like. I tend to be a purest and find the many images of our American Flag shown distressed or with other colors to be, IMHO to some degree, unpatriotic. I feel Our American flag should be treated with all the respect it deserves. So, I went searching for a more, again IMHO, standard Image of our Flag. As you are probably aware, there are a vast number of free images available. I found an Image of a waving flag that was more suited to being converted to a scroll saw pattern. I combined the Image of the Eagle (minus the distressed flag) I liked with the version of the Waving American Flag. My problem was that the Eagle was a “positive” image and the Flag a “negative” image. I solved this problem by cutting two separate cut Panels. One of the Eagle and one of the American Flag, with the area that is hidden by the superimposed eagle removed. The Eagle was cut out of a 1/4” x10” x 12” solid core Walnut panel and the Flag was cut in a 5/32” x 14” x 12” solid core Maple panel. The backer (third layer) was 1/4” x 14” x 12” BB Ply. The positive Eagle cutting was quite fragile, so I darkened it by dipping it Minwax Dark Walnut Stain. The stain was lightly/gently wiped off, hung up and allowed to dry for over three days. I used my Air Brush to paint the Backer and Flag Cut Panel, the flag “Red, White, and Blue” colors. In lieu of using Acrylic Gesso under the colors, I sealed all the surfaces to be painted with clear Acrylic Sealer. The Eagle panel was cut with Pegas #0 and #2/0 spiral blades while the Flag panel was cut with Pegas #1 MGT R blades. After the stain was dry and painting completed, the panel was assembled in two steps. The Backer and Flag cut panel glued up first and then the Eagle cutting was glued to the surface of the Flag cut panel. Thus, three layers. You can see this in the second Photo below. The assembled panel was then finished with multiple coats of the Clear Gloss Acrylic For this unique piece, I custom made a gallery style Floating Frame using nominal 3/4” Maple hardwood with a thin nominal 1/8” gap around the panel. To match the Maple Cut Panel the Maple frame was left natural and finished with the same Clear Gloss Acrylic Protective Finish. You can all salute now. Comments and Critques always welcome.

Well done! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse Bob