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Here's one of Deadpool I did when the movie came out. Regular portrait style, but I did stain some of the wood for some extra color. Captain America shield and Ironman Mask were done with a lathart style, which was kinda fun.

A Steve Good pattern. Marg

Jaeheon Yun is a fun designer and I had fun cutting all of them for the book. I used a smaller blade than Denny (Pegas MGT 3) as I wanted a smaller kerf for the pictures. The larger(thicker) #5 is better. it makes it easier to take apart. Non of these were meant to be "tray" puzzles. But a neighbor asked me if I could turn a couple into tray puzzles to keep all of the pieces together. Cuddly kittens, that also had two different woods for contrast. A bit tricky after the fact. The kittens picture shows how I packed them to send out to FC A few of them needed color so I got to play a bit. Two favorites. And the Kittens are mahogany and maple.

Yip the Insane Dust Maker ( Don Bedggood) is at it again, had to get the right size and keep everything in proportion on this one which makes it harder to cut because of the reduced size, but you will understand my madness when all the animals are cut and added to the Lion in a 3D arrangement. I will have to make changes to the outer cutting of the pattern because there must be no wood back round visible just the Buffalo profile.

I am playing around with different designs of Welsh Love Spoons, James got me started when I saw his, and now I am just going nuts! I really like the cedar as it is really nice to cut and carve. And of course the smell. These are about 11" in length. The 2nd image I just cut out using spalted maple. (The backside is in the 3rd image) I had some Pegas skip tooth blades I wanted to test, I used 3 blades for the maple one. I saw a piece and just hand-drew this pattern. The penciled-in areas will be where I do the over-under/deep carving. I am going to try a rough carve and finish, sort of the 'Ol Rugged Cross thing. I had some scrap walnut and did a smaller pattern (two blades), you can see the backside in the 3rd image. I am not too keen on the Pegas skip tooth blades. They seem like a faster cut, but I do not like how the cut edges come out. The FD Ultra Reverse finish is so much better, and I have better control. Perhaps the Pegas lasts a little longer though. I figure with a couple of pieces already cut out, I can then sit down and do all my carving, shaping, sanding, and finishing at once. I really like making these Welsh love spoons. Now I have 3 pieces to carve and finish.

I converted and resized this original White on Black image into two (2) slightly different 11” x 14” Scroll Saw Patterns. Being true to the original, for the first pattern (which I consider a Nighttime view) I simply inverted the image so that the cut out areas, that would show the White, would be Red outlines with grey fill. For the second, using a copy of the first pattern, I reworked the area around the Moon (now to be a Sun) so the image is a Daytime view, which allowed me to add color. The conversion work also included the removal of a lot of unintended bridges created by Inkscape. Since most of the cut panels would be painted, I felt the panel did not have to be the normal better quality solid core ply that I typically use, I decided to stack cut two pieces of 1/8” BB Ply that has been hanging around in my workshop for a very long time. Unfortunately, the stack was bowed slightly which made cutting very difficult. The stack cutting was completed up to a point where the area around the Moon/Sun had to be done. The two panels were then separated, and the areas cut separately. As usual, all cutting was done with Pegas #2/0 spiral blades. For the Nighttime version, the cut panel was primed and painted with Krylon spray can Black and the backer primed and painted with Krylon spray can White. The assembled panel was set into a Painted Black Floating frame. For the Daytime version, both the backer and cut panel were both sealed with a clear Krylon sealer and then painted with Acrylic Artist paints using an Air Brush. The assembled panel was finished with multiple coats of a Clear Acrylic Protective Coating. The assembled panel was set into my usual 1 3/4” wide Pine Frame that was primed and painted with Glidden Spray Can Max-Flex, Earthy Cane Satin (Glidden likes to use fancy names. This is just a light cream color.). Comments and critiques always welcome.

My Hero is the person pictured in the center picture. He and many others gave us the freedoms that the other two pictures represent. Our Freedom to do as we choose whether it be who we vote for, pray to and live our everyday lives. Those are my hero's.

This pattern was made by Sasho.

My latest efforts.

My Lawn guy has a early 50's Chevy Pick Up he keep "rustic" pristine and he is very proud of it. Thought I would surpise him with this plaque. 1/8" BBPW with 1/4" backer finish is shellac and lacquer. Used my "paint In" method on the tires and grill.

I have many heros... way too many to post here, LOL This one is my top pick though so i'll just post the one.

A couple I've made for gifts or fun over the years.

An online mulitplayer game called Diablo 4 is being released soon. My son is playing pre release version now. Part of this game play has shrines. First pic shows a shrine from game. So this inpired me to try compound cuts again. I had 2x2 douglas fir to play with. I was struggling with pegas blades. I went up to #11 skip and still struggled. So I switched to polar #7. Polar started cutting ... yea. The top part it apears I cut inside the pattern left side and outside the line on the right side. I can see how it adds mystery to a game piece. But it is a total oops. This is the first time cutting Douglas Fir. At 1.75 inch thick, Now I know why they use it for contruction. 7 inches tall. Some more pics showing inside. I played with red "transtint" to give a Diablo feel. I still need to clear coat it with high gloss. I found a rechargable 9 volt battery on amazon for powering leds. Other than Diablo 4 game piece this can hold Gnomes inside. Me. Mark Eason

I cut these three after a six-month layoff. Harvest Time - Back Porch - Bucket Harvest Time was changed a little by me and took the most time.

Herd of Alpacas pattern by Jaeheon Yun and found in his book 20 Minute Scroll Saw Puzzles. I used 3/4" Hard Maple approximately 8" square. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #5 MGT blades. After sanding with a Mac Mop, dipped in diluted Shellac and then lightly snded again. Comments welcome.

My heroes, though spelled differently, are edible.

I have missed seeing your cars Bernd. Another excellent piece. Marg

Wow, love the black and white version, awesome. Marg

I only use two types of blades. Tried a bunch and only like two kinds. First is flying dutchman which I buy from Mikes or wooden teddy bear now. Second is jewelers blades which i buy from amazon. These are super cheap on amazon, like $20 a gross if that. They work great and have tons of teeth but no reverse teeth so the back of the wood will be a mess.

Something else is kinda interesting with the hour meters is: I can cut two of the same projects coming from the same board using the same brand /make of blade on two separate saws and one saw it takes less time than the other.. Blade life from one saw to the other is also a difference. As James said it's just a neat little gadget to have to toy around with and it's not like it cost a lot of money to set up your own timer.. I don't really see a reason to post your cut times.. just go buy you a clock or hour meter and time your own stuff.. You can get some interesting useless data from it besides just saw maintenance.. Also showed me how long my dust collection vacuum runs / lasted before the first vacuum burned up, LOL.. We'll see if the next one last around the same amount of time, then I can know when to expect another one to fail. Kinda like having a odometer on your car, you have an idea of how long your tires last or other things.. check your gas mileage ( blade life LOL ). I am kinda a data geek I suppose, I wish everything came standard with hour meters on them.. just gives an idea of usage or how much wear something has..

Good afternoon, I am looking for the nutcracker pattern, I had it before from Paul, but can’t seem to find it, if you know the link I would appreciate, thx RJ

Thx Paul, I thought you were the one that had the info and all, thx again. Want to get started on Christmas stuff now, thx RJ

@rjweb https://jeplans.com/Catalog/Catalog2.php?targp=JECAT&JECAT=CompoundScrolling

Under the resources tab at the top you'll see "suppliers" There is a long list..

This afternoon, I called my hosting provider and upgraded our server and service plan to the next tier. It's about 35% more expensive, but we're getting more CPU cores and more RAM. I'm hoping this will make the website work a bit faster and more responsive. I hope! SSV does take a fair amount of time and money to run. We don't have the luxury of a publishing company flipping our bill. So, thank you to all of the SSV Patrons who help cover the cost of running this website. Without your support, we couldn't keep the lights on. If you're not an SSV Supporter and would like to help out, you can become a Patron here. Plus, if you become a Patron, you get a few extra perks! You can also upgrade/downgrade your support plan here, too. If you're interested in a simple one-time donation, you can do that here. OK...I'm that's the end of my Telethon. Enjoy the new faster server!

Looking good trying some myself shaping is a challenge.

Here is what I did back in '21. I was wanting to know how long pieces took to cut. Real saw cutting time. After a lot of research I found what I wanted from Grainger. I ordered it a few days ago and it came today and it is now installed on my Pegas saw. It is an L6 series LCD Resetable Hour meter By ENM of Chicago that reads hours and minutes. Yes it is a litlle bit pricey at $71.42 + S&T, but I wanted the simple push button reset. Cheaper models did not have a reset capability which would be fine if you just wanted to know how long the machine was operated for maintenance purposes. After cutting a hole in the side of the Pegas (just needed to take out a piece between two of the existing oval holes) I mounted the provided plastic frame that the meter slips in to. After which I simply cut the black and white wires in the plug wire, stripped them back a short didtance, twisted them together and inserted the black into pin # 1 and the white into Pin #3, tightening down the screws to hold them in place. I reniforced the plug wire behind the meterwith some electrical tape and slipped the unit into the mounted frame. A quick test run produced a one minute indidation to show on the meter. With a push of the button on the front it returned to 0-00. Here are pics: Yes, I did gouge the adjacent metal with the cut off grinder...me bad. This set up only shows saw run time. Actual saw sit time can be once or more as much, depending on number of holes. Threading time is often more that sawing time. I'm adding this comment today. My setup has bee working fine, but I just do not think about reseting it at the beginning of each new project. When I do look it will have quite a few hours recorded. It is interesting to see the cutting time, but I think I need to add a second timer to record just how long I sit at the saw on a given project.

Plug everything into a power strip and plug the power strip into your foot switch. When you step on your foot switch it will power the power strip which in turn will power whatever is plugged into it.