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This truck was a custom order. The customer wanted a clear shellac finish, where I usually sell these unfinished. I started making different trailers for these after making one of the original style trailers for my grandson and having him bring it back and tell me it was broken because when he tried to haul a car, the car would roll off. The truck is made from construction-grade pine and finished with three coats of clear dewaxed shellac. The wheels are amber shellac. I added a bit of paste wax and buffed it with a cotton cloth. It feels butter smooth.

You know it is the simple things in life. My grandson (just over 4 months) playing with a simple rattle I made for him. Put your headphones on and you can hear the "Clack". After a long day in the office, this video made my day. I just gave a similar rattle to a Turkish officer who just had his first child this week. His tour is over at NATO here in the US and returns to Turkey at the end of the month. I made a number of toys for his daughter. Edit.. hmmm no audio? IMG_9693.3gp

I want to thank everyone for their kind words regarding my projects. Some folks have expressed an interest in how i go about using epoxy in my fretwork. I thought I might start by showing the items you will need to get started. I am not an expert and recognize that there are other ways, and maybe better ways, to do these type of projects. I would welcome hearing from everyone about their experiences. I'll try to post a little bit every day as I go through a project. You are going to need the following......weights or some way to hold your project flat against your backing ( the fiona kingdom video shows another way to do this/ f clamps and wood )Pic # 1 some of ny dad's old oil feild stuff i use as weights, pic # 2...resin colorant, pkg tape, level, toothpick, cotton swab, stir stick, pipette, lighter, small plastic measuring cup, bigger silicone measuring/stirring cup, flat piece of bb ply or just ply to use as a work surface and you can move your project from one area to another.....also, you will see a small piece of duck brand clear shelf liner, that is another option to use as a backer. Pic # 3 Resin and wood sealer. You can get all this stuff from amazon for somewhere around 50 bucks. Ya'll don't make fun of my work shoes as it took me a long time to get them just the way I like them....forrest... Ps... a couple of more project pics.( Steve Good patterns )

Best improvement I've made to a tool in quite some time. They are lighter and easier to use than the originals. The saw seems to run quieter/smoother, too.

Here is my piece. The Founding Fathers!

My Hero is the person pictured in the center picture. He and many others gave us the freedoms that the other two pictures represent. Our Freedom to do as we choose whether it be who we vote for, pray to and live our everyday lives. Those are my hero's.

I took a stab at using epoxy resin to compliment these Steve Good patterns. If others are interested I can furnish some helpful hints on the process I use.

I am playing around with different designs of Welsh Love Spoons, James got me started when I saw his, and now I am just going nuts! I really like the cedar as it is really nice to cut and carve. And of course the smell. These are about 11" in length. The 2nd image I just cut out using spalted maple. (The backside is in the 3rd image) I had some Pegas skip tooth blades I wanted to test, I used 3 blades for the maple one. I saw a piece and just hand-drew this pattern. The penciled-in areas will be where I do the over-under/deep carving. I am going to try a rough carve and finish, sort of the 'Ol Rugged Cross thing. I had some scrap walnut and did a smaller pattern (two blades), you can see the backside in the 3rd image. I am not too keen on the Pegas skip tooth blades. They seem like a faster cut, but I do not like how the cut edges come out. The FD Ultra Reverse finish is so much better, and I have better control. Perhaps the Pegas lasts a little longer though. I figure with a couple of pieces already cut out, I can then sit down and do all my carving, shaping, sanding, and finishing at once. I really like making these Welsh love spoons. Now I have 3 pieces to carve and finish.

Latest project done. 1/4 bbply with #1 mg blade. Frame is a cigar box. Stripped the paper, painted outside with black craft paint. Pattern by Dean (face book). Finish is Walrus oil.

I recently purchased a set for my King industrial and I love them. Made a huge difference.

Sea turtle - one more silhouette pattern to my collection, it is 6th one. I made two variants: silhouette and framed, as an example added colored variant. Which one do you like more? Pattern - https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA

I have cut about 60 birdhouse ornaments to date using the Pegas MGT blades. I have used both #3 and #5. Pattern placement is critical. I like to use a utility knife and a straight edge to lightly cut partially through the pattern on the dashed line. If the blade is sharp, you can do this with the only pressure being the knife's weight. The pattern will fold right on the cut. I fold the pattern to nearly 90 degrees, spray with 3m77, and apply the pattern dead on the corner first and then the sides. Close is not good enough. Everything must be square. Forcing the cut or using a dull blade will also cause problems.

Looks very good.

Cool pattern. Well cut.

Wonderful job. I love making wheeled vehicle toys. CArs, trucks, animals... you name it. VVvvrroommm!

Looks terrific and very fragile in places. Marg

Well, this type of behavior keeps me out of trouble, so that's a good thing! Working on new designs, and also ordered more wood sized for making spoons. I have adjusted my technique and having "blanks" helps me a lot.

Looks great! Walrus oil is a new one to me.

In addition to Bill's suggestions. On artcrafter.com all the MGT blade had the reverse teeth, these will pull some of the sawdust back into the kerf. Try their skip and superskip blades. increase your tension slightly slow your cutting speed, sometimes the blade will try to follow the hard grain (thin line in the wood) especially in softwood, most especially in redwood. slowing your cutting allows the blade to cut and not wonder so bad. increase the saw speed slightly How old is the wood and what type of wood is it. This does matter.

Great saws.. I have a 1998 serial 109*** so I'm thinking this is early 2000's model. While these run around $1700 for the latest newest model this older version I wouldn't think is worth $700.. I got mine back in 2016 from a older person that bought it new in 1998 and was still in the sealed box.. ( unfortunately he had a medical condition after he had ordered it and just never was able to put it to use ) I got a heck of a deal for $400 as to my surprise when I opened up the boxes it turned out it had a magnifier light several ( 10+ ) blade holders and several pattern books blades etc.. I would have paid that $700 or maybe a little more for mine being brand new but too many used ones floating around in the $3 - 500 range.. Lots of folks on Facebook groups etc. would say this is a decent deal and it may be in certain locations but many reference the $1700 price of the new model, however the new model while it looks just like these older ones have been redesigned and are a much nicer saw.. Many think it's the same thing and it's not, I know because I bought a brand new one in 2018.. If I thought I could get $500 - 700 from mine I'd probably sell it.. I didn't use it much after I got the new one so it only has 100 hours on the hour meter. In my mind a good deal on this saw would be $300 or less.. If you was really wanting this particular older style and needing a saw maybe $500 at best.. That's just my opinion and the prices are typically a ( the most I'd pay ).. Really would depend on in person inspection etc..

I use Steve Good patterns for baskets a lot. I will shrink or blow up the pattern depending in the size of the stock I am using. I also very the thickness of the stock to get a different look. I recently made a SG basket that I stack cut two layers, one layer was thinner than the other, the two resulting baskets look completely different. One is taller and has a narrow look, the other is short and squatty.

Several factors come into play with compound cut patterns. You mentioned 3 of them; blade square to the table, proper blade and not pushing sideways. Those are very important. Another is to make sure the blank is absolutely square. If you buy your wood already to thickness or mill your own, it is critical that the sides be square to one another, especially the corner that the pattern is mounted to. Also, take great care in how you mount the pattern. Make absolutely sure that you fold the pattern exactly along the line indicated and when you attach it to the blank, make sure the fold is placed precisely on the corner of the blank. Any mis-alignment will result in an out of square cut, no matter how well everything else is set up. As for the blade, a skip tooth blade is preferable for compound cutting. Reverse teeth are not necessary for compound cuts and do not clear dust from the kerf nearly as well as skip tooth. The size will depend partially on the material and thickness being cut, but a #5 should be adequate for most applications.

Jaeheon Yun is a fun designer and I had fun cutting all of them for the book. I used a smaller blade than Denny (Pegas MGT 3) as I wanted a smaller kerf for the pictures. The larger(thicker) #5 is better. it makes it easier to take apart. Non of these were meant to be "tray" puzzles. But a neighbor asked me if I could turn a couple into tray puzzles to keep all of the pieces together. Cuddly kittens, that also had two different woods for contrast. A bit tricky after the fact. The kittens picture shows how I packed them to send out to FC A few of them needed color so I got to play a bit. Two favorites. And the Kittens are mahogany and maple.

Hey Everyone! In this fun scroll saw project video I make cut out my logo! This has been a viewer requested project for awhile now and I hope I fulfilled it! I use 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 inch material from my scrap bin. Hope you all like the video! #ArtisanPirate

I been getting my Birch from Woodpeckers on Amazon , I use mostly 1/8" amd 1/4" I buy 12x24"which I don't need it much bigger, right now it is a little expensive and good quality.

Thanks for the nice comments, I actually cut "57" puzzles. The last one was published in separate printing. Noah's Ark , I used a small desktop laser to engrave the name on each animal. this one was really fun.

Your penguins remind me of the work of my cousin Stewart Moskowitz.

Eagle Owl pattern by Jacob Fowler found in Woodworker's Pattern Book. I used 1/2" Cherry approximately 6" x 10". The base is unknown wood. I used Pegas #1 MGT blades and cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw. After sanding, dipped in diluted Shellac. Another light sanding with a Mac Mop and then one coat spray Lacquer clear satin. Comments welcome.

I have many heros... way too many to post here, LOL This one is my top pick though so i'll just post the one.

A couple I've made for gifts or fun over the years.

This pattern was made by Sasho.

A Steve Good pattern. Marg

I just received the fall 2023 issue 92 magazine. When I removed the center pullout it was in two pieces (not torn) with some of the graphics missing ( about 1/2 inch). Has this happened with your copy?

To Gene what saw did you upgrade the new chucks too.