Leaderboard

I had been saving this pattern to cut with the new Pegas. Some of the cuts are extremely thin and while I trust and could have used my WEN, I wanted this to be the first on the Pegas. Besides, the size (11X19) would have been a little large for the 16-inch WEN. I used a combination of blades, 3/0 and 2/0 spirals, 2/0 MGT and 2/0 double skip. The blades were all Pegas except for the 3/0 spiral which was Flying Dutchman. (To my knowledge Pegas doesn't make a 3/0 spiral.) I used 1/4-inch Pine for the cutting and a 1/4-inch Lauan for the backer. The Pine is stained with Minwax Ipswich as well as the Pine frame that was custom made. They both were finished with 4-coats of rattle can Polyurethane sanding with 320 grit sandpaper between coats. The backing is sprayed with gloss black. The pattern is by Jeffrey L Flick. The Poodle piece was a commission using 1/4-inch Lauan for both the cutting and the backer. The cutting is stained with Minwax Natural and again, the backer is sprayed black. The frame is cut using pre-fabricated framing material cut to size. Both frames were given splines to add strength. The pattern was made by myself from a photo provided by the owner. The new Pegas cuts fantastic. I had to make a few altercations out of the box, but I believe I have it where I tuned in pretty well. Initially the blade was set to the most aggressive angle which was corrected by rotating the motor. Also, the clamps were not properly adjusted so that the blade was in the center of the hole in the table. The saw runs smooth and quite with no vibration throughout the entire speed range. The saw is a BEAST and mega heavy. Now I have to figure out how I'll fit it with casters to move it out of the way when I decide to pull a vehicle into my shop.

A couple of weeks ago at the Farmers Market a family came up on their bikes. One girl, about 10, had a recently broken arm and was "in a mood", just was not having a good day. I was the second booth in from the edge of the market, so I asked if she wanted to see some "woodworking magic". I had one of the reindeer cut out but still in the block, so I showed them the block, pointed out where I had cut both side and then took the 3D reindeer out of the center of the block. I didn't make a sale but it broke the girls bad mood and she (and her family) were able to enjoy the day at the market. That got me thinking. Now when I prep the deer for cutting I drill a pilot hole in both sides pf the block and then cut out the reindeer. I remove the deer from the block and brush off as much sawdust as I can and remove the small waste pieces from the legs and antlers. put it back together and sell the item block and all. And they are selling better than the deer by itself.

Well it will be finished when the finish dries. I met a young man a few months ago, that was a Navy Submariner. First submarine person I have ever met. I made him a military plaque and added the submariner emblem to it. Anxious to give it to him.

Saw this on Facebook. It isn't mine but I thought it was kinda cool and might inspire someone. Or crank up the old creative engine so to speak.

Yep.. and I know just the little girl I would love to make that for.. She is really a horse person. Doing the jumping. Scene now. A few Years ago I made this picture for her when she first started.. She was thrilled! Guess she is not a little girl now, she must be 12. Good friend of my Daughters.. I get video every once in a while of her jumping events.

we had to put my girlfriends dog down a week ago today. Dazzle was a survivor of the thailand dog meat trade and lived at a rescue we both volunteered at. Daz had to have a mast cell tumor removed 17 months ago . my GF took her home for the healing period. she wouldnt let daz go back. my girlfriends nicknames for daz were "puddin butt" and "weirdo." she was such a goofy dog and lived the last 17 months of her life being loved tremendously. the "weirdo" is upside down and off center on purpose because...welp... WEIRDO!! LOLOL i thought a keepsake box of some things of dazzles that are precious to my girlfriend might be nice

Wait a minute, here, hold my beer! I was able to get the sub emblem without damage, and the rope.. Now it is sand and refinish, I'll see how that goes. Don't you dare drink my beer!

I refuse to subscribe until they make the insert available online. So I check it out at Walmart and decide if I want to buy. I will check to see if they have that issue yet.

Well, I did it. I bought a hegner 22. I just placed the order this morning. I've got a king 16 and I love it but I really wanted a hegner too. Maybe that's crazy , maybe I didn't need it but I just wanted it. Hopefully I'll enjoy it. I'm thinking I'll keep both. We'll see what I like each one for as time goes on. Maybe one for delicate work and one for more aggressive stuff or something.

Just finished this plaque for my granddaughter who’s giving it as a baby shower gift. I want to thank Paul (Grampa) for doing this pattern for me in record time. He is amazing. Thanks again Paul.

**burp** Oh....that was YOUR beer? No idea what happened to it. Glad you were able to get it updated!!! Most submariners, like any other specialized group, are proud of what we accomplished.

Looks great from here but I know how it is not to be satisfied the first go round. I always start out thinking, "No way I'm doing that over" but I always do. Sure does feel good when you get it done to your satisfaction though.

Well that clinches it. DO OVER! thanks for pointing that out. To be honest, I did not know. I thought about it briefly, but being a woodworker I picked the best looking side of that piece and put it outward. The other side had on little chip in it. No way I could remove it and replace it. I'm one of those dumb Marines,,, ,what do I know. Thanks for being a nitpicker, I know how proud this guy is of his service,, I want to do it right for him. Sad, I didn't like the finish I had on it so I cleaned it up and sprayed with my favorite finish,, I looked much better to me.

That cutting of the Motorcycle is definitely a lesson in precision cutting. Beautiful job. The puppy, very well cut also. But wow that bike looks like it is coming right out of the picture. Not to be argumentative, well , maybe a little, but of the blades I have the 3/0 is a little smaller than than the 2/0 and not as brittle, does not break as easy. But I like and use them both.

.027 The size listed for Pegas 2/0 spiral blades at Bear Woods and Klingspor .024 The size of the Flying Dutchman 3/0 spiral blades at Bear Woods and Mikes Workshop .0236 The size of the Pegas 2/0 spiral blades at Artcrafters I find it interesting the the Pegas has two different dimensions for the same blade ( probably different production runs ). Sorry, my CDO ( Compulsive Disorder, Obsessive; this way the letters are in alphabetical order, As They Should Be ) kicked in.

A very good idea. It would also protect the reindeer. I am always concerned about these getting broken when I ship them.

Saw set up on stand and ready to go. The helpers came on Wednesday afternoon and unboxed the saw then bolted it to the frame. It is an excellent height (adjustable) and I find it easy to load and change blades. It will be a real boost to the scrolling fretwork pieces and internal cuts. Haven't got Henry (the vacuum cleaner) set up yet but we are getting there (very slowly).

you know what you like and do what you want to, but i think it looks awesome.

More on epoxy in your fretwork....By far and away the most important thing you need to do is make sure that your project panel and your backing , in this case 5 overlapping strips of Duck brand heavy duty pkg. tape, are securely anchored to one another. Pic # 1 is of the backside of a panel and an example of a poor job of securing panel to tape, resulting in resin leakage. Pic # 2 is the front side of same panel, which I did not seal the wood well enough resulting in resin bleed. Also, one of the three vases was ruined during pour because of not securing panel to tape correctly. If you mess up in the securing portion of process and see leakage during the pour do'nt freak out, just let it harden and take it to your saw and cut the bad part out. Pic # 3 is an example of 2 things you may encounter, which are bubbles in your epoxy and a line that shows up from the overlapping strips of tape. ( This is a close up view, which can not be seen unless you are a foot away.) You can use toothpick to pop bubbles or use a cigarette lighter to quickly go over epoxy areas with heat. ( You Tube comes in handy to learn these tricks.) Maybe a more expensive brand of epoxy will help. Pic # 4 is an example of doing a good job of securing panel to tape. ( Backside view ) Pic # 5 shows the results of the two ways I have used to secure the project to backing. 1st butterfly with overlapping tape and 2nd butterfly I used Duck brand shelf liner. See the difference? 1st butterfly is clear and vibrant and 2nd one has more of a frosty look. When the sun shines just right the ones done with overlapping tape they will shine like diamonds, however, the 2nd butterfly, the one done with shelf liner, looks great also is less prone to leakage and can offer a cleaner pour. Last one for today pic # 6 is the start of a new project. More to follow.....forrest... Also they sell wider pkg. tape on Amazon but I have not tried it.

Hi All, I would just like to say my new Axminster 535SS Scroll Saw arrived yesterday along with the stand (and a free pack of various Pegas blades). Instructions for assembling the stand are pretty pathetic and I will need some time to fathom it out but there's no rush. I will need a couple of helpers to unbox and fit up the saw s it weighs in at 28 kilos. I will need to re-organise the workshop a bit so it may be a while before it is up and running. Just thought I would have a brag about my good fortune and good luck to all my fellow members on here who need it. take care and stay safe.

I took a stab at using epoxy resin to compliment these Steve Good patterns. If others are interested I can furnish some helpful hints on the process I use.

https://scrollsawer.com "Scrollsaw Woodworking and Crafts"

Sorry to ask such a lame question, but what magazine are we talking about? Thanks!

Look very well done.

Batman made from 3mm diabond aluminium and 3 clocks made from old scratched LP's

Yep, I've been eyeballing that one for a long time too. Life has had me distracted, but things are settling down, so maybe . . . we'll see. Fingers crossed.

Charlie, I am with you there! Paul, I hope it won't be too much work to redo. I am glad you were able to salvage at least some of it. It looked pretty darn good in person when I was over there the other day.

Alex Fox a member here has some really nice baskets. He calls them bowls but they don't hold soup. https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA?section_id=24170222 Here is an original Alex fox pattern but he has a few much more interesting on his site. I have one my to do list.

Yes, the motor fins were probably the most difficult. That and the front wheel. The cuts were very thin with only a narrow strip between cuts... hince the 3/0 spirals. I couldn't imagine trying to cut those with a straight blade. I did use a straight blade on the narrow cuts such as those along the tail pipe and windshield.

Should have added a pic ~6" diameter from point to point at top, 9 layers (10 counting the bottom piece) stack cut from the same piece of stock that was resawn. Short basket has rings that are ~5/16 thick and is about 3-1/4" tall Tall basket has rings that are 7/16" thick and is ~4-1/2 inches tall

Paul, you have done an excellent job on this, RJ

Rodney, they are beautiful excellent cutting, RJ

Very nice!

I've cut many 3D pieces and am still amazed everything I take the block apart and there is the part I wanted. You have a good idea here.

Neat idea!

good idea

Nicely cut! Not to nitpick, but, as a submariner myself....the dolphins (submarine insignia) is reversed. The boat should look like its heading to the right, not the left.

Great job on both. The HOG hits close to home as I ride a HD Street Glide and have cut a few MC patterns a while ago. Wish I could find a good pattern of a Batwing Fairing Glide to cut. In reference to your comment about using FD 3/0 spiral. I have tried them and found that they aren't any smaller than the pegas 2/0. In fact the resulting cut is, to my eyes, actualy wider. Enjoy the new saw.

Great thinking outside the box.

Great cutting well done ,glad you like your new saw.

I am playing around with different designs of Welsh Love Spoons, James got me started when I saw his, and now I am just going nuts! I really like the cedar as it is really nice to cut and carve. And of course the smell. These are about 11" in length. The 2nd image I just cut out using spalted maple. (The backside is in the 3rd image) I had some Pegas skip tooth blades I wanted to test, I used 3 blades for the maple one. I saw a piece and just hand-drew this pattern. The penciled-in areas will be where I do the over-under/deep carving. I am going to try a rough carve and finish, sort of the 'Ol Rugged Cross thing. I had some scrap walnut and did a smaller pattern (two blades), you can see the backside in the 3rd image. I am not too keen on the Pegas skip tooth blades. They seem like a faster cut, but I do not like how the cut edges come out. The FD Ultra Reverse finish is so much better, and I have better control. Perhaps the Pegas lasts a little longer though. I figure with a couple of pieces already cut out, I can then sit down and do all my carving, shaping, sanding, and finishing at once. I really like making these Welsh love spoons. Now I have 3 pieces to carve and finish.

Definitely 2 different saws. I'm still not totally comfortable with my Hegner, but learning.

This truck was a custom order. The customer wanted a clear shellac finish, where I usually sell these unfinished. I started making different trailers for these after making one of the original style trailers for my grandson and having him bring it back and tell me it was broken because when he tried to haul a car, the car would roll off. The truck is made from construction-grade pine and finished with three coats of clear dewaxed shellac. The wheels are amber shellac. I added a bit of paste wax and buffed it with a cotton cloth. It feels butter smooth.

I want to thank everyone for their kind words regarding my projects. Some folks have expressed an interest in how i go about using epoxy in my fretwork. I thought I might start by showing the items you will need to get started. I am not an expert and recognize that there are other ways, and maybe better ways, to do these type of projects. I would welcome hearing from everyone about their experiences. I'll try to post a little bit every day as I go through a project. You are going to need the following......weights or some way to hold your project flat against your backing ( the fiona kingdom video shows another way to do this/ f clamps and wood )Pic # 1 some of ny dad's old oil feild stuff i use as weights, pic # 2...resin colorant, pkg tape, level, toothpick, cotton swab, stir stick, pipette, lighter, small plastic measuring cup, bigger silicone measuring/stirring cup, flat piece of bb ply or just ply to use as a work surface and you can move your project from one area to another.....also, you will see a small piece of duck brand clear shelf liner, that is another option to use as a backer. Pic # 3 Resin and wood sealer. You can get all this stuff from amazon for somewhere around 50 bucks. Ya'll don't make fun of my work shoes as it took me a long time to get them just the way I like them....forrest... Ps... a couple of more project pics.( Steve Good patterns )

Several factors come into play with compound cut patterns. You mentioned 3 of them; blade square to the table, proper blade and not pushing sideways. Those are very important. Another is to make sure the blank is absolutely square. If you buy your wood already to thickness or mill your own, it is critical that the sides be square to one another, especially the corner that the pattern is mounted to. Also, take great care in how you mount the pattern. Make absolutely sure that you fold the pattern exactly along the line indicated and when you attach it to the blank, make sure the fold is placed precisely on the corner of the blank. Any mis-alignment will result in an out of square cut, no matter how well everything else is set up. As for the blade, a skip tooth blade is preferable for compound cutting. Reverse teeth are not necessary for compound cuts and do not clear dust from the kerf nearly as well as skip tooth. The size will depend partially on the material and thickness being cut, but a #5 should be adequate for most applications.

From Barbara Thanks all I have seen Steve Goods Patterns and have wanted to try but I felt it may be it is harder than what it looks like. I am now going to try one bee sending picks.

A couple I've made for gifts or fun over the years.

A Steve Good pattern. Marg

Here's one of Deadpool I did when the movie came out. Regular portrait style, but I did stain some of the wood for some extra color. Captain America shield and Ironman Mask were done with a lathart style, which was kinda fun.

This doesn't have much scroll saw work and so I did post this in 'Other Works" but I did the top window, door and doorway of this and also the "balcony" using my scroll saw but that is about it...but it is definitely outdoors