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Mini Model A Cars. 6 models. Size is ¾” x 1 ⅝” x 2 ⅞”. Replenishing my stock. Toy cars, trains and planes I sell a lot of at the trade shows.

Another kirigami design by https://lightboxgoodman.com/collections/kirigami-digital 3/8 bbply (buying the 4'x8' sheet at Lowes and cutting it down is a lot cheaper, I found, than the smaller sheets, and I ran across surprisingly few voids). Frame was a 2x2, ripped in half. Minwax Honey and Natural stains. Lost count of the number of Pegas 0/2MG blades. Not a difficult cut at all, the hardest part was the outside cut, around the butterfly...only one bridge holding him to the rose, and some thin areas. Overall a good pattern! I think I blew it up to 125% when I printed, but I have no regrets. I had to round off the corners of the piece in order to not run into the throat depth of my 16" saw, but since I wasn't stack-cutting this, it was no problem.

Playful Donkeys pattern by Jaeheon Yun in the book 20 Minute Scroll Saw Puzzles. Made from 3/4" Poplar and cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #3 MGT blades. A light sanding, dipped in diluted Shellac and then another light sanding. Comments welcome.

Here's my latest work. Lots of time spent making the pattern and cutting this one.

My Grandson and his Girlfriend (soon to be wife) are expecting a baby boy in September. When my Grandsons' were born, I was only in my early 40’s and felt I was too young to be called Grandpa so I said just call me Grumps. That has stuck to this day, so now I’m going to be a Great Grumps! I was looking for something to make for them and stumbled across this Stencil that I thought would be perfect. I converted it to a 12” x 18” pattern that I cut in 5/32” Solid Core Birch ply. The cut panel was affixed to an Air Brush painted ¼” x 12 x 18” BB ply Backer. The Pattern is very simple, taking me less than two hours to cut using my go to Pegas #2/0 spiral blades. Painting and drying took a lot longer. The assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of Krylon Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish. While the paint dried, I made a Gallery Style Floating Frame constructed out of 3/4" wide Poplar rails and finished with Glidden Max-Flex All Surface spray can Armor (Silver) paint. I will let the Frame paint fully cure for a few days and then get this into the mail by early next week so they can hang it in the Baby Nursery. Yes as always, comments and critiques are welcome.

You can get a frequency app for most phones that would do that. Given the different size, thickness and teeth of different blades, the frequency would vary blade to blade. Personally, I do not pay very much attention to the exact tension. Close is good enough.

Do states have a “State Color” ? I’m not aware of one for Michigan and since Michigan has lakes surrounding it I painted this blue for the water sort of. I’ve been doing some other state ornaments and not sure about colors to paint them or just make them all blue like the Michigan one. So far everyone I’ve shown the painted vrs. Walnut backer they all like the painted better so I feel like I should be painting them all. Just not sure about the colors. What is your thoughts?

Just finishing this one up. Pattern from an old magazine. 1/2 plywood plaque (9 layers), I cut two stacked, FD Polar #1, Ebony for the dark stripes, dark walnut for the body, natural for the face and background. I saved all the dropouts (taped them back in place while I cut the rest of the pattern) stained them separately and then glued them back in place, the dark stripes were glued just pround of the surface (toothpicks for spacers 5/64" )

I designed a new unique cell phone and tablet holder which i needed. Then i loved it so much and decided to create its pattern for others use. Have fun! Wooden Adjustable Phone Tablet Stand.mp4

Just sharing stupid little test "Tes" and practice piece. It is a mix between "people and pets" and compound cuts. I went to the chiropractor and thought I could practice on his character. People and pets.... is a pattern book that inspired me. A chiropractor sketch that inspired me. Back ache one one side . And front view on other side. Both Hand sketched on wood. Final cuts... Oops sorry I delivered it and forgot to get a finished picture. I dipped in Arm R Seal. It is setting on reception desk at Chiropractors office. He named him "Tes". He is a block head. I can make more of them and have a block party. Me. Mark Eason

Well now! I may just have to grab one of hubby's guitar tuners and take the challenge of creating a song!!! NOT!

M heros don't play ball, nor are they found in comic books. They do wear dog tags, though.

Maybe they were referring to a $100 blll.

Yes, there is. Dremel makes one. It is small and made of plastic. I don't have one. I would not have any issue routing small parts with a 1/8-inch round over or even 1/4-inch, especially the size of a Christmas ornament. There are many ways to hold a small part for routing if you're uncomfortable using your hands. For example, you can mount the small part on a piece of clear acrylic with double-sided tape or build a jig with some toggle clamps to hold the part if it isn't too small. I don't use my Dremel for rounding over small parts often because I can do it with a Japanese finger file or a coarse fingernail file faster than I can set up the router and I almost always need to sand after routing.

I would be more curious if the right tension had different notes for different blades and different scroll saws. So many variables. I do pluck my blade every time I clamp one and before I turn the saw on, but I think I go more by the feel than the sound.

Why? that's just dumb.. Sorry I just had to since you said someone would and I wanted to be the first I remember someone posting about using one some years ago and you guessed right.. many asked why and that's stupid or overkill etc etc.. Anyway, I think I've read many different times that a proper tensioned blade should be about a "C" note... whatever that is supposed to be.. Like you, I don't have the music talent or the ears for that either. My older brothers stole all of that from the younger of the siblings as two of my brothers play in bands and actually have some music published through a recording company.. Guess they are good at it.. I wouldn't know since they've stole all the ear talents from us younger siblings NOW, with that said.. couldn't one play some music from a scroll saw.. you have the ( what's it called? Reverb bar? ) tension lever to change the tune of a single string ( blade in this case ).. I would say someone would have a lot of talent if they could play a song using a scroll saw and blade tension lever only. LOL I might suggest this to my talented brothers,

I looked at many of my project pictures and thought about what heroes means to me. The Corsair was flown by World War 2 heroes. This project was donated to a local veterans support group for a silent auction fundraiser. The eagle picture was made as a father's day gift for my hero, my dad.

I am thinking of making/cutting a Chess Set. The set I really like is the San Francisco Set so I cut the King for this from 1 and a half inch (1 1/2") square Oak yesterday. It turned out ok and I will now have a look for some suitable woods to make up the 32 pieces needed. This King is about 4 1/2" high.

I've heard that proper tensioned blades make a certain note (although I don't know what note) but has anyone actually tried using a guitar tuner to see what it does? I happen to have a cheap tuner from an endeavor into learning to play the guitar that I failed miserably at. Lol I've been testing it on the hegner and from what I can tell it says E when it's tensioned right. Just wondering if anyone has tried this. I know some will ask why and some will say this is dumb but just like with the clock post I made, I like gadgets and find tinkering with stuff neat. I'd not recommend using a guitar tuner to set your blade tension every time I don't think. I'm just curious if a proper tensioned blade does make a consistent note.

Rainy day so spent some time in the shop, nothing fancy just something to keep busy.

I have a smaller cheap scroll saw, Wen 16 inch(?), can I cut a pattern that is 10x13? I know could cut it with a spiral blade, but being new to scrolling I have never used a spiral blade and am half afraid to try. So, the basic question is can I cut this pattern on my saw with flat blades.

No Michigan does not have a state color. Because the state troopers wear navy blue uniforms and their cars are primarily Blue I would go with Blue.

Great cutting a real masterpiece.

I started with a WEN 16-inch and have cut many 11X14 pieces. You may have to use a spiral if you're cutting along an edge in a corner. Don't let spirals scare you. They are much easier than you think. Just remember to GO SLOW until you get use to them. I've also noticed the spirals have a tendency to "bow" as you push your work into the blade. The thicker the work piece, the more the bow. This is another reason to go slow. When you get to a corner or sharp turn, stop pushing into the blade and allow the blade to "catch up" before making your turn. For the most part, you should be able to cut most pieces with a straight blade unless the piece is heavily fretted in the corners. Fortunately, my new Pegas cured any concerns with this issue, especially with a 30-inch throat. Good luck with your cut.

Thanks, I will measure right now. I will send pictures. I am slow so it might be a while.

Al, welcome to the SSV forum. You should be able to cut that pattern on your scroll saw, but it does depend on the size of the blank you are cutting. The 16" dimension is the distance between the blade and the rear of the scroll saw arm - measure it for yourself. Then, after you mount the pattern on the blank, measure the distance from any point on the pattern to the farthest corner of the blank. That is the corner that would hit the arm support when you are cutting that far part of the pattern. So, you might have a problem if you mount a small (less than 16") pattern to a too-large wood blank. Post pictures when you complete your project. We all are impatient to see!

That's why I never considered becoming a doctor...lack of patience.

I've no ear for musical notes but, I can recognize the ping of a properly tensioned blade. Well, properly tensioned, for my needs, anyway.

I don't see heroes, I see comic book characters and ball players.

Boy, I wish you were my "Grumps", but i'm a little old for that. Anyway, very nice. Although I don't always respond to your work, I'm always amazed. Jerry

Awesome Kris. Beautiful pattern. I have patience but you definitely have patience.

I have both the Dremel plunge router base and the Dremel bench top router table. The router table is ehh, okay. The clamps to mount the router are kinda clunky, so if you choose this, get a second Dremel and just leave it in the table. The only problem I had with using it as a router was the collect was worn out and I ruined a couple of pieces before I figured out what was wrong. The Dremel is still a dangerous tool, 40,000 rmp gives no reaction time at all, by the time your brain realizes anything is wrong the damage is already done. I would give a router sled a shot, as least look at the option. Maybe scale a sled down for the Dremel. Remember, the Dremel is a light duty tool. Link to a router sled:

I assume the lath is 1/4 or 5/16" thick. I would not even attempt to use a router with such a small pieces. it is too difficult to safely hold small pieces. I would use a Mac Mop or similar or sanding mop to ease the edges.

But I have never figured out what to so with the parts I have left over!

I really don't care much for the "MG" blades... I know, I am weird. I much prefer their Reverse skip #3R blades. But that is me, I do not care for aggressive blades. But I have never cut 5 layers of 1/8" BB either. Max I have cut is 3 layers of 1/8". If you would stop by,,,, I would give you some of the #3Rs I use and you could compare. You may need go to a larger # to cut 5/8th. This is "if you would stop by"..... If not,,, suffer..