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A client commissioned me to make a jewerly box for his wife for their anniversary. He gave me a picture of some hibiscus he wanted inlayed into the top which I made a pattern for. He also wanted the message put under the lid. I got it done way ahead of schedule but this time of year I start getting super busy with shows.

I cut a fret work box a few years ago that I really liked. It was made out of Bubinga wood and had a great looking redish color. I have used up most of my Bubinga and come to find out it has become very hard to get. I had some 1/4" Mahongany left over from another project and decided to give a try. The pieces I had were not as wide as the original project, so I had to go a little smaller. Lots of repetitive cuts and I liked adding the funiture style feet. I dadoed the edges 1/8" on all side but the top for a stronger fit and glued in place with CA glue including the bottom. I recessed the hinges 1/8" on the base and flush on the top and used my 2 sided tape technique for positioning the hinges. Waxed and pretaped the screws and then ground down the screws for the top so they would not pass through the the 1/4" material. Finish is Shellac and Gloss lacquer.

Well, as people have noticed I have been quite the Welsh Love Spoon maniac of late... All thanks to James WeIch! I said I was going to take a spoon break (I lied and posted those) and do some clocks. Well, here is one that I just completed yesterday, just waiting for the finish to cure so I can do a 3000 grit final sanding. I also decided to fit the brass finish clock insert vs the silver. It is made out of oak, ang finished with Old Masters satin polyurethane gel. Rocking chair clock measures 6h x 5d x 6w Pattern comes from the Fox Chapel book: Miniature Wooden Clocks for the Scroll Saw ps: I have four more clock inserts, so I need to make some more

I'm curious as to just how much everybody appreciates this site. For me, it was the beginning of a long and truly fascinating hobby. It allowed me to learn the ins and outs of how to make things using a scroll saw. But, more importantly, it gave me the opportunity to meet many great folks who share the same interests as me. So, with that said, just how important is SSV to everybody? What if it went away? Would you all miss it or would you just move along to the next site? I guess what I'm saying is, if you feel as I do, become a patron of the site and cough up $10/yr for the basic membership. Or $20 for the next level. If you can spare it go all the way and opt for the monthly plan of $5/mo. It takes money to keep these websites going and that's why many don't make it. I'd be VERY unhappy to see this one fade away as so many others have. Give it some thought. It's the only one, besides Steve Good's site, that I donate to and I don't miss the few bucks it costs. For the cost of maybe one board a year, you can help keep it alive. P.S. This idea is on me. Not anybody else.

Thanks all! I really appreciate the support. It used to be that I could put some Google ads on the website and make enough money to cover server costs and software licenses. But over the years, that ad revenue has dropped about 80%. So the SSV Patron/membership makes a huge difference in covering the costs of running SSV. This year, my operating costs went up by 30%, which was a bit of sticker shock. I guess as the popularity of a website grows, it gets more expensive to maintain. Luckily, I'm still in the black, but not by much..LOL. I'm just happy to be able to provide a nice resource, a place to learn, and place to hang out for the scrolling community.

That's phenomenal, Dave! Such cool joinery. I can picture someone 100 years from now imagining the maker. I've got to try making some boxes for my grandkids.

Having fun cutting these birdhouses. Been using scrap material of what ever I have and cutoffs from the hardwood dealer. Have cut 50+ with at least the same waiting to be cut. I like the different colors in some Cedar pieces and the grain in the Cypress is nice. Even tried something different with the sock shaped one. Painting the birds different colors and cutting some from Purple Heart and other woods.

Peruvian walnut and Canary 3/4+ thickness wood. The tree has multiple layers. I again used Dave's @Dave Monk technique for layering the tree. If you look closely you can see an old fence in the distance. p.s. I painted the painting yesterday to compliment the tree...

I joined on 3rd January 2009 and I have 21,483 posts, I guess that tells you how much I like SSV. Marg

Sometimes you forget what you read a while back, so always good for a refresher. Jerry

Love the Village. you can go to “Support SSV” from the area that shows your user name- on my IPad, it’s in the top right corner. Then select option to become a supporting Patron from 3 different levels, Supporter, Silver, or Gold. This shows “benefits” of each level or, if you wish to make a small donation once, or from time to time you can go to the “Donation” and make a donation over and above or instead of the Supporter levels. It is processed through PayPal.

Great looking box.

Awl, needle nose pliers (extra small), side cutters, workbench, extra blade holders for #1 , extra blade holders with larger blades (#3, #5), 1 2 3 block. sandpaper block, flash light, magnet, small parts holders, canned air, tuff wrench

I have all that has already been mentioned but to add to the list I have a pair of side cutters ( dikes ) to cut the ends of the blades off that are too long. It doesn't matter on the EX type saws but it does on the Hawk and Hegner saws.. Unfortunately Pegas blades are not all the same length, many times they have a thin pointy end on top or bottom and sometimes both ends that I need to cut off for the Hawk.. If I don't cut them off then I have to adjust my blade tension for every blade since no two "pegas" blades are the same length. I end up cutting them to the right length instead of messing constantly with my tension on the saw.

And I'm sure you knocked this out over a weekend... Great job.

At the saw, I keep an awl, sandpaper and usually an Exacto knife within easy reach. The awl is to open up the holes on the back side of the wood (bottom feeder here) and clear tiny bits out of the frets. The sandpaper is to clean the ends of the blade before installing it. The Exacto knife, just because I always try to keep it within reach. I find I end up using it for all sorts of things.

I'd say it's not a bad batch of blades IF, you're only experiencing it on the Hegner and not on the King.. More like a picky saw needing a more precise tension.. in other words a nice way to say user error .. No worries though most of us have been there.. some of us twice.. ie I learned to saw on easy to use ( tensioning ) saws.. then I had to re-learn on the Hawk saws again.. I've seen on other forums, and probably even did this myself back in the day complaining how Hawk and Hegners are crap saws because I didn't know how to use it correctly.. been so bad with others that they've sold their saws to go back to a DeWalt.. LOL... It took me a good maybe year of switching back and forth from the DeWalt or Excalibur to the Hawk before it finally clicked what was finally right. I'm now thankful I am not a person to give up easily LOL.. Love these saws now.. however a EX type saw will always have a spot in my shop too as I like to use that different style cutting from time to time..

Okay, that makes sense...thank you so much Dave, mc

I have a pair of needle nose pliers for when a blade gets bent and stuck in the wood, an awl, a extended reach magnet (it’s actually attached to the metal saw stand) and the pack of blades I am using.

Thanks for the reassurance. Sometimes I wonder if I made a mistake starting a thread. For me it's never meant to be argument provoking or confrontational but some of my topics cause this nonetheless. It's good to know that it was helpful.

Dave that is absolutely beautiful! So I am curious, you inlayed the flowers, which I assume you cut at an angle, but did you do another layer of wood under the top so that is why we don't see the bottom of the flowers onced you open the lid....hope my question makes sense....Marie

Wow, that is an amazing box! I love the color of the mahogany. Very nicely done.

Been awhile scent I posted a picture. Been working on none scroll saw things. Seen these patterns on Sheila Landry web site a just had to make them. Used hickory and #5 pegas mg blades.

Another beautiful piece of art, a true craftsman as always, RJ

That came out beautiful. Love the fret work and the way you did the top. Great job.

WoW Dave, you do such awesome work. I can only dream of trying to do something like that.

You usual great scrolling. Beautiful box.

I have tried spraying mineral spirits, and it always eats up the o-rings in the sprayer. Another method I use to apply mineral sprites to patterns is a wash bottle.

Very, very nice. Kudos

I use odorless Mineral Spirits exclusively. Not to be confused with odorless paint thinner. Odorless mineral spirits should be clear, like water. I fill a plastic spray bottle (like a Windex bottle) and spritz it on the pattern. Let it soak in for a couple minutes, then the pattern comes right off. I'll usually spray the wood again and wipe with a rag to remove any remaining glue residue. Let it dry, then a light sanding and it's ready to go.

Such a stunning piece. Another heirloom piece.

Wow Dave! That is spectacular! That will become an heirloom, prized for generations to come.

Another work of art you have crafted Dave The recipient is going to be in awe and the giver will have earned major brownie points.

terrific job, it's beautiful

fantastic job

The box is walnut and I used yellow heart, purple heart, poplar and canary for the flower pistils.

Magnificent piece of work. Well done.

My SIL sent me a picture of a case that one of her friends had with the quotation -- "Interesting". That is a hint hint. The one she showed me was done by a laser so I redesigned for the scroll saw. The sewing machine is from Steve Goods picture. Size is 3 3/4 by 2 3/4. 4 layers 1/8 BB. Swivels on magnets to open.

That is so beautiful. Excellent work. Marg

I had to look close at the top drawer, a no, not drawer. Nice blend of front . Wow that flower top is beautiful. Me. Mark Eason

That is awesome Dave. Very beautiful work.

@BadBob not only do I remember the old bbs systems, I had an employee who ran a couple. (When my wife was finishing her dissertation, Ohio State libraries had eight dial up lines to access a very limited database of their collections. You could read along as the screen scrolled into the buffer to save your data.) Also, I used to sell radio control tanks to the folks at CompuServe. They used the tanks to pull in "fish" cables. With the tracks, they could climb over existing cabling in the chases.

Beautiful Dave. I envy your talent. Jerry

I too use shelf liner then spray the back of the pattern then place it on top of the shelf liner. If I have fret work that is fragile I use my wifes old hair dryer and heat the pattern and shelf liner for 2 or 3 minutes. Shelf liner and pattern come right off. Be careful when removing it from fragile fret work. Jerry

Thank you for telling us how to do it. I need step by step instruction for some things.

Me too. This was a very helpful thread even if it went on a tangent. Thanks James for starting the conversation!

BTW, this was my other spoon I finished with the above, made of Black Limba. Did all the carving by hand on this one. This too was finished in raw Linseed oil.

I made this a while ago but it is a P-51 with the tail number and base code the same as the one this gentleman flew in 1945.

Not all heroes where capes.

Seems to me you will have to eliminate your banner saying no lasers!