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My grandson just started as a realtor and wanted something for a personalized gift to give to his first clients. I had Kieth Fenton make the pattern for me. 3/4" Red Oak, about 15+ wide and about 7" high. Pegas MGT #5 from Denny at Artcrafters worked well.

Almost a month into my new hobby and not a lot to brag about but, with another scroll finished without ruining anything yet, is okay by me. (Knock wood)

Scroll saw segmentation using various 1/8 inch thick hardwoods. Pattern from The Best of Wood Vol 2 1993.

Finally finished the Sign for my Chicken Coop. Plus a couple of Christmas ornaments wip. Two for the price of one on the Snowman.

A short while ago I received a Steve Good email containing his Butterfly Box (bflybox2023 - good.pdf). Needing another tabletop item in my collection, I thought that this project looked like a nice project that would fill the bill. My solid wood resource is limited, and I was only able to find enough ¼” and ¾” Hard Maple and some ¼” Red Oak to build the box out of. I did enlarge his pattern to 6 ½” x 8”. I feel this made the box size a little more useful. I did stack cut the two ¾” pieces that make up the vertical walls of the box. I did the cutting using Pegas #5 MGT R blade. I should have glued the two boards together before cutting, as he suggested, rather than after. This would have eliminated glue squeeze-out and reduced the amount of sanding needed. I should have also stacked the ¼” thick stopper (his Layer 3) when cutting the inside of the walls, which would have produced a much more precise fit. Stack cutting the two ¾” layers of the Hard Maple was a very slow cut. I did not burn the wood, but the walls did not remain their natural white and became streaky dark. I was able to remove the glue squeeze-out by sanding, but sanding did not eliminate the dark discoloration. I also stack cut the top and bottom Oak Layers. I used the previously cut wall to act as a template to guide the blade while cutting. This was a little tricky, but worked out well so there was minimal sanding required to have all edges flush with the walls. I did darken the Red Oak with Minwax Aged Oak for a better contrast between the walls and the top and Bottom. The ¼” thick Hard Maple Butterfly applique for the top was a very easy cut using Pegas #3 MGT R blades. During the final sanding of the Butterfly, I profiled all the top edges to give it a slightly rounded-over look and feel as the top will be handled during use. And yes, I did have to make the project different by using Artist Acrylic Air Brush Paints to add color to the Butterfly. The assembled Box and Cover was finished with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer.

I gave a break to my saw for awhile. Building inventory for a couple of shows. Charcuterie boards and cutting boards seems to be in demand. Here are a sample of what I have done this past week. The last one was pour 2 hours ago.

There is, but as Scrappile has mentioned, it really depends on whether the uploader named the file well, added a title that matches, or adds something to the description to make it easy to search. At any rate, at the search bar, click into that. On the right, it says "Everywhere", click that to get a pulldown. Then select images. You can continue to refine your search by clicking "More Search Options" This will give you a ton of ways narrow down your search. I do try to categorize the patterns, but some of those categories are huge. I am rather proud to say, our pattern library has over 4,800 free scroll saw patterns, designed by our talented members! That's pretty amazing IMO!

Cutting rpck/stones with a tile saw could be dangerous. It is very difficult to hold a roundish rock in a tile saw. It would be very easy to come loose and fly around. This is a Geode I drilled a hole thru to insert a LED with a diamond hollow core drill. It was tough going.

Well I gotta say, I cannot debate whether you can cut stone with a scroll saw blade, I suspect that with a diamond blade you could but it would be painful. I know you can turn soft stones. Here are examples of soap stone I turned. It was not difficult, but it was slow. The resulting "rock dust" was a real fine powder like talc. And I have seen the results of turning alabaster: http://www.maxkrimmel.com/Alabaster/HowToPart1/HowTo1.html

Not going to do it. Unless you find a way to use a diamond blade there is not a metal blade or wood blade to hold up to a stone. This comes up in the turning world and even carbide tools will not do it. Find another medium to play with is my suggestion. Cut copper, brass, aluminum. they would be challenging. Coins are cut when thinned. The metals in coins are junk metals. I cut a coin in half and used Jewlers blades on my Dewalt788 years ago as a competition to another turner who bet I could not do it. It took a few blades to do it. Could not cut it with any other blade including what everyone touts as metal cutting blades. If you do try it make sure you document every move or we will not believe you. good luck.

I'm not sure about Hegner but Hawk sells or used to sell a cooling tank / pump system for cutting tiles and other items that would require a coolant system... I personally wouldn't do it for the fact that the rock would likely get into bearings etc of the saw..

Good job! Most people won't notice tiny mistakes but you will see all of them.

I think it is a bad idea as stones are much harder than coins. In addition, you could get grit into your machine and damage it. I have drilled holes in rocks but used a diamond coated bit immersed in water at very slow speeds. You might cut limestone or other soft rocks but anything with silica in it will dull a blade very fast. They do make diamond coated scroll saw blades.

Well I looked at this pattern a while before deciding to get started. And I am Very Happy with the way it looks. Had some Hold the breath happenings, but All in All I Really did Enjoy cutting this pattern. I am not real sure, but think Jim Blume designed it. Anyway all comments are very welcome...............Danny :+}

Just finished cutting this one. Wanted to try it for a while now. Saw that someone on here did it (looked amazing) so I gave it a go. It was very time consuming, but that is fretwork for you, right. I used Alaskan Birch, size 0 spiral blade on my Delta saw. My struggle now is how to sand it properly and how to finish it. I really like the Danish oil finish and will probably do that but hunting for advice and ideas here. Thanks for looking.

I just finished cutting this monstrous Haunted House for Halloween. Hundreds of cuts. Pattern by me. This is backlit for "spooky" effect. I cut this mostly with Pegas #3 spiral blades.

Since he is my grandson, he probably expects a huge discount or for free. LOL

Unfortunately, I can change the original post, but not the quote. Sorry, mommy.....

Looks great! I personally like the Black backer, but I do almost all of mine with a black backer so I may be biased...lol.

A word on rock hardness. A few years ago I though of a solution to canopy weights at the market. My idea was to drill holes in rock and insert eye bolts, turn them over at the end of the market and leave them. I tried masonry bits, they drilled though cinder block like butter, on rock they scratched the surface but would not penetrate; this with a drill press on slow (175 rpm). Hegner has diamond blades ( currently unavailable ) and a water system ( foot pump ). If you use the water system it would cool the blade and control the dust. If you tilt the table forward and put a catch tray underneath it would control the mess. If I were to try this I would use a pet waterier; adjustable flow and a replaceable filter would take care of water issues.

If there is, I have not found it, I think the clue is to encourage pattern designers to add tag words to their saved patterns, such as their name, or something related to the subject. But I have not been able to search and find a pattern unless they do.

There are a number of ways to fix "oops". You will find AC Glue to be your friend. However, if the "oops" ,is bad enough, what so bad about having to start over. If you can't afford t o throw it away, you might want to find a different hobby. I've completely cut many a pattern that never gets diplayed for many reasons and they wind up in the fire box. It is only wood! I personally like the thinner cut panel with a backer. In your pics I can not really tell a difference in color. If the imsge had more details in the butterflys and girl, then maybe color would be appropriate. If you have seen any of my work, you may know that I will often add color, but for this case I like the simplicity of the B&W effect. Hope you plan to apply a good protective coating like Lacquer or such and find, or make, a nice Frame to realy make it an outstanding piece. BTW, very well done!

I think you're doing great. You'll be amazed how many things you'll learn to do intuitively without even meaning to, over time.

great job

Since each piece is cut separate vs a segmentation, the key is going slow so you split the lines perfectly. this will give you the needed fit. The regular sanding will loosen the pieces up a bit so the child can play with it. Additionally, I finished the back side the same way with the profiling of the edges, so they can make a reverse puzzle or just play with the pieces individually.

Judy @ChelCass, when I click on the links, the pictures are too small and I cannot see anything.

Love it. It looks good with both colors, it's what suits you best. Marg

use an IV Bag with a drip adjuster.

Drip tank is what Hawk calls it.. Their photo is terrible but anyway.. LOL https://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/drip-tank/ Pretty sure I've seen the same thing at one time on Hegners site too.. I've not seen it offered with any of the other saw brands though.

The hawk saws have a hole in the metal table right below the bottom blade clamp. I put a small funnel in that hole to catch sawdust in a container. The hole is probably for water coolant.

I did own a rock cutter, home made 10" diamond saw. I used some coolant that was made for machinist. A evap cooler pump to keep filtered coolant running on the rock. Basalt rocks that might have opals. Keep the blade cool and clean with some water dripping. Might also check about diamond saws for scrollsaw. Also search for diamond wire.

I gotta say I agree with everyone here. Upon more research I realize that a tile saw would be the best and safest way to cut the stones. Oh well.....

I've finally figured that part out but even with the thinnest blade it was nerve racking cutting at the top and bottom of those butterflies. I nicked one spot so I duplicated it on the other side to hide my flub.

Turned out really nice, Jim. Those cuts look crisp!

This turned out very nice, Jimmy. A tip when cutting corners, stop pushing into the cut of the blade and create slight back pressure when making your turns.

I have been in my shop off and on for the past month and have been sending them off in the mail before I took the time to photograph them. But I still have some ready and in the closet for Christmas gifts so I will start trying to list them a little more often but will not try to overdue my items but rather spread them out. This item I am making as an extra gift for one of my grandchildren who live about a mile away from Billings Montana and have a small 38 acre farm where they are raising cows and training horses for other folks there. They have a lot of wild creatures there and so I thought this might be a fun sign for their front porch. They have Elk, dear, turkeys, deer and a lot of other animals that are crossing their fields daily. I thought this little sign would be one they would enjoy having. Dick heppnerguy

I made the wine holder for my wife's birthday. It turned into 2 more for birthday presents and now she wants 4 more to give as Christmas gifts. I also started Christmas ornaments for the season

This is a custom order that took far to long to complete. I had several technical issues that I had to resolve. 2 layers 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood, not sure the blades probably FD Polar, pattern based on a Steve Good design and customized by myself. The end stripes are snug but can be removed to attach/detach from a wall.

Looks like you are going to be making someone very happy with this one of a kind item. Nicely done Dick heppnerguy

I like this pattern and I know the time it took you to cut it was more than worth it to you as well Dick heppnerguy

And here we are profiled, sanded, and dipped in linseed oil.

Good job! Michael Jr. will be happy.

Very nice, Witchita. The removable stipes are a neat idea.

Consolidated B-24 Liberator The B-24 was the greatest produced aircraft of WW II. Between 5 different locations, 18,500 including 4,600 at the Ford Willow Run facility were manufactured. The initial order was in 1939 and were produced from 1940 to 1945. Compared to the B-17, It flew faster (297KTS) and more range (1,500 to 1,800 Miles) It did fly 2,000 feet lower than the B-17 and was hit more often by enemy flak. It was operated by the USAAF and Navy along with the RAF, RAAF and Indian AF. The aircraft was multi mission to include bombing, antisubmarine and transport and flew the “Hump” over the Himalayas from India to China. More info on Wikipedia. Some notables to fly on the aircraft were, Walter Matthau, George McGovern and Jimmy Stewart. This was a fun project and I had to add some bridges on the fly as I cut. It is 17 x 12” on 1/8” BBPW with ¼” Backer. Shellac and Gloss Lacquer finish. Font is Umbria and is easy to cut because there are no bridges. I may need to give the aircraft a rest for a while and do some boxes or fret work again.

That three crosses cutting is fabulous. . Great piece of wood.

This is another of Jim Blume's fantastic patterns. I double stacked a new wood (in this area) that was labeled as being "Blonde" and cut the pieces using Pegas 2/0 spiral blades. The piece with the black frame was stained with Natural and has a black cardboard backer. (A test to see how it worked.) The brown framed piece was stained with Ipswich and given a black wooden backer cut large enough to give it a border between the piece and the frame. Both frames were custom cut using pre-fab framing material. The pieces were sprayed with 4-coats of Polyacrylic and sanded with 320-grit between coats. While the "Blonde" wood cut alright and the presence of fuzzies were about the same as other woods, it did not have the wood grain I enjoy seeing in my pieces after finishing. I also cut another project with this wood and it really lacked the vibrance of a natural wood grain. If I decide to cut a piece I plan to paint, this may be a good choice because it is less expensive than Maple or Birch. However, if I plan to put several hours into a piece, I want the finished product to gleam with a unique grain pattern that shows the beauty of the wood. That pattern itself was an easy cut despite the number of frets. Jim did a great job. You would think by looking at it there would be some delicate areas. Actually, it was pretty stout even after the final cut.

Last year I made 2 versions of this recognition award. I posted 1 version already. The 2nd was delivered a few months later. I did not want to post the "jwk" version before giving it to the guy. This was based on company symbols. The original company logo was a light bulb with the filiament showing "iW" signifing iwatt. 2 companies bought us, the 2nd company started with a big R. So the wood award shows that these 2 guys came from iWatt and still work at the big R company. The 1st pic varied the filiament to the workers initials "jwk". The 3rd pic show a zoom in of the silicon wafer that I cut down. to 44mm. Wood is purple heart and yellow heart.

I like the look of the blonde wood for this type of portrait. You did an excellent cutting job, well done. Marg

Steve's Scroll saw Workshop was the first place I came across when I became interested in scrolling as a hobby. I have made quite a few of Steve's patterns and as Jim McDonald says above have learned much from him. These 2 patterns were my first attempts at using more than 1 layer of wood and although I still have much to learn, I was quite happy with the results.