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In my quest to utilize the most wood possible, I made a pair of earrings to judge how well they are received at the market: Can you tell where I got them?

Here's an ornament by our own fearless leader Travis:

Here is another of my recent shop projects. I am not sure but I believe I downloaded the pattern from the pattern forum here. I liked this one from the first time I saw it and just got around to cutting it. I did make a quick easy frame for it and painted it this off red color. I enjoyed the time spent to cut it and I plan on giving it to some family member for Christmas. I hope they like it also Dick heppnerguy

3/4" Oak, 11" wide and about 4-5" high.

I have two. The Rose is one I have been working on already (I believe I posted the pick in the past), but I finally decided on a background and finish. Made this one for my Mom. I finished it with Walnut Danish oil for the rose, and a Mahogany stain for the back ground. The Labrador is for a dear friend of my Dads. He had a yellow lab that was his pride and joy. He passed a few years back but he still comes up in conversations now and then. I thought I'd make him something as a remembrance. As you can see, I have a ways to go on it.

While I live in Florida, my son lives in North Carolina and my daughter lives on Long Island, New York. So, visits, or getting together for Holidays, do not happen often. I will see my son In October for Biketoberfest and my daughter in Joining us on a cruise to the Caribbean this November. I decided I wanted to make them Xmas gifts I could package up for them to take home with them. I thought a version of a ‘Night Light Lamp’, similar to lamps I have made in the past, would be a good gift for both families. My box style construction technique that I have used previously is simple and straight forward. Other than the Scroll pattern, all parts are cut and/or mitered on the Table Saw. The scroll patterns were stack cut using Pegas #3 and #5 MGT R blades as well as Pegas #2/0 and #0 Spiral blades. Rounding corners was done on my bench belt sander while most finish sanding was done using my Palm sanders and hand sanding as needed. The Lamps were finished with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. I decided to make these lamps shorter than those I made previously, only 6 inches tall, with a simple scrolled base that is formed by the walls. My design is based on a 5 1/2” square box with mitered corners, since 1/4” Red Oak from Lowes is available this exact width. I did purchase some Bolivian Rosewood (from Ocooch) for the lamp I made for my son as a dark wood lamp will be more appropriate with their bedroom furniture while the Red Oak will work for my daughter. The Bolivian Rosewood is beautiful wood! Both Lamps have a loose, 1/4” thick Matching Top with an underside “stopper” that keeps the top in place. I chose to use 1/4" BB ply, stained to match, as the interior bottom piece for both strength and not wanting to waste the costly hardwood. The plans to make shorter lamps made the task of finding suitable patterns for these lamps a difficult task as, you all know, cutting any kind of intricate pattern at a reduced scale is a challenge. Also, the pattern must be a self-framed positive image that allows the light to glow through the frosted Plexi behind the large open areas of the image. My daughter-in-law is a fanatic about Dragon Flies. I had previously found a very suitable Dragonfly image I had converted into a Scroll Saw Pattern and had saved for a future project. This Pattern became the initial motive to make Night Light Lamps in the first place. Now just I needed to find something that worked for the lamp for my daughter. After a lot of searching on-line, I found a very suitable stock image of a ‘Butterfly in a Garden’ that I purchased. I was able to insert the round images into a the square spaces by adding the cut-out corners. For these (and future) lamps I purchased ‘MakerStock’ two-packs of 1/8” x 12” x 24” Transparent Orange Acrylic sheet and Frosted Lilac Acrylic sheet, from Amazon. For the Transparent Orange, I glue Drawing Velum to the interior face to make it translucent (appears frosted). I think the Orange worked well with the Bolivian Rosewood and the Frosted Lilac worked well with the Red Oak. An important note here. I found if I sized and mitered the Acrylic pieces to fit the interior box dimensions snugly, the pieces held themselves together and did not require any adhesive to keep them in place. And, of course, a lamp requires the electrical lamp parts, which I chose to purchase locally at Lowes. However, for anyone that may choose to make these (or similar) lamps, I might suggest you search on-line (Amazon) to get better pricing. You can find the patterns for these two lamps in Pattern Exchange. I hope you may have enjoyed reading my detailed story above and, hopefully, did not get too bored. Here are the pic of the Lamps and, as always, comments and critiques are welcome. This pic was taken in dark with no extra lighting. Fairly close to what they will look like when use as a night light. If still too bright, the equivalent 7W LEDbulb can be replaced with an equalent 3W LED bulb. As seen, the Orange is brighter than the Lilac. PS: Boy, close up photos reveal things you don't see in person. Although I glued the stopper cross grain, there is still some warp in the Rosewood top. Also, the corner joints of the Red Oak appear to be open slightly, but they realy aren't.

Horse ornaments!

Advertise them as antiques.. not false advertising if it was that long ago, LOL.. Trying to sell things sometimes is odd with pricing... list it cheap and nobody sees any value in their purchase.. make it pricey and sometimes people buy it up.. of coarse that works both ways too.. It's really about getting it seen by the right person.. Like Ray said.. maybe your timing was off.. give it another go.. If that fails you could always donate them to a charity or goodwill or something..

My latest project is my bathroom cabinet which I put in the "Other works" forum....I am amazed how much I miss using my scroll saw. So here is the latest one I finished which I submitted in the bragging section awhile back. Hope to saw more fun items soon!

I want show you my new project. A wooden staircase marble machine. Simple and functional. Pinterest-Face.mp4

Finally finished the Sign for my Chicken Coop. Plus a couple of Christmas ornaments wip. Two for the price of one on the Snowman.

I gave a break to my saw for awhile. Building inventory for a couple of shows. Charcuterie boards and cutting boards seems to be in demand. Here are a sample of what I have done this past week. The last one was pour 2 hours ago.

Scroll saw segmentation using various 1/8 inch thick hardwoods. Pattern from The Best of Wood Vol 2 1993.

I made the wine holder for my wife's birthday. It turned into 2 more for birthday presents and now she wants 4 more to give as Christmas gifts. I also started Christmas ornaments for the season

This is an Alex Fox pattern my daughter bought me for Father’s Day. After finishing it, guess who wanted it for her apartment, hahaha!

Another one.

Here another one fresh out of my shop. I cut one of this pattern not too long ago but I cut it on a little bit darker board and it was no way I was able to make it stand out very well so I did it over again and I am better with this one then the first one. It is for a Christmas present for one of the family member with a couple of cats that they love and I hope this one will find a nice place in their home. Dick heppnerguy

A custom order for the "Wedding Rings" designer unknown. I used 1/2" solid Cherry and cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #1 and #3 MGT blades. After sanding with a Mac Mop sprayed with 2 coats MinWax Lacquer Clear Gloss sanding between coats. Comments welcome.

Ok, I post the pictures again, hopefully everybody can see them.

Very nice. The pattern is not too busy which makes the lamp look balanced. That is not too much light and still shows off the scrollsaw work you did. The bottom curves to add feet to the corners just adds to the overall eligance. That is not just a box. For next versions, Is there something you can do with the top to make it not just a square lid and remove possible warping? Would allowing light coming through the top be distracting? Me. Mark Eason

beautiful work

Mine sold well, so yours should. Well done. Marg

Looks great, well done. Marg

They look Great Judy, well done. Marg

I stay logged in. So when I come on to this site, even if I haven’t closed it, it takes anywhere from 20-30 seconds to load, then an other 10-20 seconds before I can click on anything. Once loaded, it’s lightning fast. I am using IOS on an iPad. My IOS is current. It’s been like this for a few months now. I have no problems with any other site.

Another job well don, Dick. I believe that is a Russ Beard pattern.

I found them on Pinterest. There are tons of them, just do a search.

It's been that way for me most of the time for wow maybe a year or so, LOL.. But to be fair sometimes " I think " it might be my slow crappy internet provider.. the downside to living in the boonies.. But on a more positive note, they ran fiber optic cables last spring and I inquired about it and sure enough.. I'll have FO options available late spring / early summer 2024 YAY!!!! Now back to the slowness.. it only seems to be the village that does it so now that I know it's happening to others then maybe not all of it is my end. For what it's worth, I stay logged in.. and have a direct link going to the forum list page and skipping the home page altogether.. If it matters I'm using windows 10 and the chrome browser.. If any of that matters.. It's not a huge slow up for me but definitely noticed.. Like normal pages load 1-3 seconds and the village is more like 5-7 seconds and now and then it just hangs up but if I click refresh or something it loads right away then.

I also bought Volkers book of 21 and did several of the Schwibbogens and they are very nice. He also has some pyramids but they are large.

Good cutting , Dick. Sad, anymore when I go to the shop, I feel guilty. I feel I should be outside working or inside clean house. But I still get some time in the shop once an a while.

A pattern I working on doing to learn. Many mistakes. Busy putting in inkskape. A LOT TO LEARN. Barbara

A short while ago I received a Steve Good email containing his Butterfly Box (bflybox2023 - good.pdf). Needing another tabletop item in my collection, I thought that this project looked like a nice project that would fill the bill. My solid wood resource is limited, and I was only able to find enough ¼” and ¾” Hard Maple and some ¼” Red Oak to build the box out of. I did enlarge his pattern to 6 ½” x 8”. I feel this made the box size a little more useful. I did stack cut the two ¾” pieces that make up the vertical walls of the box. I did the cutting using Pegas #5 MGT R blade. I should have glued the two boards together before cutting, as he suggested, rather than after. This would have eliminated glue squeeze-out and reduced the amount of sanding needed. I should have also stacked the ¼” thick stopper (his Layer 3) when cutting the inside of the walls, which would have produced a much more precise fit. Stack cutting the two ¾” layers of the Hard Maple was a very slow cut. I did not burn the wood, but the walls did not remain their natural white and became streaky dark. I was able to remove the glue squeeze-out by sanding, but sanding did not eliminate the dark discoloration. I also stack cut the top and bottom Oak Layers. I used the previously cut wall to act as a template to guide the blade while cutting. This was a little tricky, but worked out well so there was minimal sanding required to have all edges flush with the walls. I did darken the Red Oak with Minwax Aged Oak for a better contrast between the walls and the top and Bottom. The ¼” thick Hard Maple Butterfly applique for the top was a very easy cut using Pegas #3 MGT R blades. During the final sanding of the Butterfly, I profiled all the top edges to give it a slightly rounded-over look and feel as the top will be handled during use. And yes, I did have to make the project different by using Artist Acrylic Air Brush Paints to add color to the Butterfly. The assembled Box and Cover was finished with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer.

Judy @ChelCass, when I click on the links, the pictures are too small and I cannot see anything.

I’ve accumulated a fair amount of small pieces of wood which I prefer to make use of rather than waste. Making more of these small cars helps while at the same time increasing my inventory. Walnut and maple.

My latest project was mini model A cars. They are so cute and fun to make that I made a second batch of 18. These are for my upcoming shows. I’m currently working on a fleet of Kenworths which will soon be completed.

I am having a problem with starting projects but not getting them finished. Has something to do with my age. But I did finish this one after I had started three other things.

This was done for a client on 1/4 Birch Ply, finished with Danish Oil, light Oak Stain and varnished. She’s very happy with the result.

Last three I cut, kirigami papercutting patterns from https://lightboxgoodman.com/. Cut them for myself, just trying to find places to put them since the wife is getting a bit tired of all the "wood colors" around the house. LOL

I cut this skull and crossbones for my grandson. I cut it from baltic birch plywood. We are still debating how to finish it.

I've been on a Christmas topic for a while. This another Sue Mey pattern to share.

My own pattern for a segmented Jimmy Buffet tribute.

No links or pictures on my computer.