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I keep trying to learn colorizing techniques in hopes that some day I may begin to 'get it'. Only time will tell. Dick heppnerguy

I made four of these large, 7” diameter, Snowflake Ornaments by Steve Good, that I will be giving away to some of my neighbors with my cookie trays that I do each year just before Christmas. We all have carports, and these will be a nice decoration to hang under them. (IMO they are too big for a typical indoor Christmas tree.) To make them I stack cut four pieces of 1/4" BB ply for each half. Cutting with Pegas #5 MGT R was a slow go. Took three blades to complete each half as they got dull quickly. Although I thought I sanded the halves well, after they were assembled, glued and pin nailed together, as soon as I primed painted them, fuzzies appeared. After drying, I had to knock the fuzzies down with my sanding mop, but there are still some visible where the mop could not get to. As the saying goes: “You won’t see them from Brooklyn”. I painted them with a finish coat of Krylon Glitter Shimmer, but the glitter did not show well. Retacked the surfaces and added some “White Body Glitter Powder”, that my lady had, and then recoated with Krylon Glitter Sealer. Now the sparkles are more visible in real life, but not so much in the photos. At least this year I got my Holiday projects completed way in advance. Now I can concentrate on my Art Panels. Comments and critiques always welcome.

Backlit Haunted House

Here is my latest. A great pattern by Arpop. Piece and frame are oak and the splines for the frame are poplar.

Keith is great to work with, always gets me exactly what I want. 5/8" Red Oak, cut with Paga #5 MGT blades.

A couple I did some time back, a flying bat and a lighted cat lantern.

Most new cans have these rings that you put your finger nails under and pull. I found a finger nail saver, can opener tool from Niles Bottle stoppers. This is my 3rd one so far. This is donated to a local "Cat Crew" that Traps Newter Release neighbor cats. She sent me a picture of her cat and I used it as a pattern. I used red gum wood to capture the red tone of the cat. Some wood grains go between the eyes. The offset tool allows space for fingers to get grab the wood better. This allows for a good pull. I used Arm R Seal for finish / protection, 5 coats. Cat food can get messy. The 2nd pic shows the cats face. I just printed and glued to wood. Then drew lines where I wanted to cut. #4 Spiral makes good eyeliner and lipstick. #2 spiral was used for trimming whiskers. Me. Mark Eason

A few I have done over the years.

Boy Frank, I wish I was one of your neighbors. You would get tired of me looking over your shoulder to see how you do things and to learn. I could learn a lot. And then to receive a cookie tray. I love cookies. Jerry

That's strange to me that your Hegner has some vibration, I get that it's mostly smooth but those couple of sweet spots that get the shakes.. That said, all three of my Hawks had the shakes in certain spots on the speed dial.. the smoothest running one being the oldest one that I sold.. But for those three saws the oldest also had a shelf within the legs of the stand framed with aluminum angle. I went and finally built a shelf for the newest saw and that sure made a difference so going to do that with the other Hawk as well.. The Hawk stands don't have any braces in the legs like most stands have.. so I think that is more of the issue with those saws.. Now for my Hegner, don't know what model you have but mine is a Multimax 18 made in 2002 or was it 2012, I can't remember now anyway, I have the saw bolted to the hegner stand and that saw is probably the smoothest saw I've ever had through all the gears.. Do you have the factory Hegner stand? That stand is full of braces and solid..and having the 3 legs rather than 4 is good even on slightly uneven floors. I used to have a old Dremel model 1800 scroll saw years ago and that thing was pretty bad.. enough that I looked for options to help, even though it was bolted to the factory stand which was a pretty solid stand. I ended up running across a post that mentioned putting a piece of carpet padding between the saw and the stand then bolting it down bit not tight.. just snug it up, then run the saw through the variable speed settings while tightening up the bolts just a small amount on each bolt at a time and finally I was able to get that saw pretty close to as smooth as any of the other saws I've had.. Might be something to try. I've never bolted my saws or any of the tools to the floor for easy of moving and being able to clean up better around them.. But been some break-ins around the "somewhat" area getting too close to my area.. Take someone a lot longer to steal my tools if they're bolted down.. My concrete slab cost almost as much as the whole shop did so I've been hesitant to drill holes in it, LOL..

Paul, instead of bolting the stand to the floor, build a shelf in the middle of the stand legs and place a bag of sand on it.. The sand will absorb whatever vibration you have.

Paul, my experience with 3 different Hegner saws was that they all liked sitting unbolted on the H/F foam floor mats. I also found that the order in which the 3 bolts that hold it to the stand are tightened made a difference. If I recall, tightening the two rear bolts first and the the single front bolt made a big difference. I'd tighten the two rears a little at a time until tight. Then the front one. I have no experience with bolting the stand to the floor. I don't have concrete floors. On a side note, you mentioned selling your home. We bought our last house in 92 for $250k. We sold it in 07 for $640k. It just sold again for $1.5 mil. A simple tract home of 1900 sq ft and a 3 car garage that sold new in 65 for $25k. Things are nuts here. Property taxes on it for the new buyers will start at $15k/yr.

I know I haven't posted anything for a while but I have been working, just forgetting to post, so when I get chance you will be inundated with photos. Anyway this is what I am working on at the moment. 29 names for a customer, some will go to Ireland, some to Norway and the rest will stay in Australia. They are all made from 1/2" pine and they will have a clear finish. Blades were no. 3 PMG. (Pegas Modified Geometry) Marg

Just finished this beautiful patter by Russ Beard, double stack cut on 4mm Birch Plywood using a #0 Niqua straight pin less blade. Needs to be varnished and framed. I have cut another five Russ Beard pattern but I’m not ready to post them yet. My workshop is in turmoil at the moment as we are packing and relocating to Cape Town, South Africa. So I’m very limited as to what I can do at the moment. Love doing these Fretwork Complex cuts, gives me great satisfaction.

Timothy, I always look forward to seeing your work. This one is excellent. I expecially like how you did the backer board and the frame. Great cutting! mc

Are you looking for a project? Here are 3 in the Project Workshop that might scratch that creepy crawly itch!

Kenworth tractor trucks made of poplar that had been aged over 20 years. Pattern is from toy making plans.com if anyone is interested. A lot of parts and very enjoyable making.

I have been contemplating bolting my scroll saw stand to the floor. I have the bolts, but have hesitated doing it because of the thought we need to move some day in the near future. I did not want to drill holes in the concrete floor, but on the other hand. Why not? If someone else buys the place, three hole will not make a difference. If they use the space for something other than a work shop they will want to cover the floor anyway. The other hesitation is well it make a difference. My saw (Hegner) has a few spots with vibration and some sweet spots with none. Not sure bolting it down will change that. Has anyone seen a noticable difference between bolted to the floor or no?

That is called being a master at scrolling... Straight lines an circles are the hardest to do.. You so it so well!

Those are beautiful cuts. the lines are super. Red oak is a nice hard... wood...

Frank, they look good, I tried making them a lot smaller in size 3 1/2 inches for the tree, but couldn't get the lettering correct so i gave up, RJ

My Box-O-Lanterns and a Hanging Halloween Lantern

terrific job

I agree that putting a floor mat/padding underneath and adding some weight to the stand will probably work just as well, if not better than bolting to the floor.

It looks terrific. Well done. Marg

Very nicely done!

you are going to town with making these. You will be putting smiles on a lot of Australian people's faces with these Dick heppnerguy

What a fun idea. I especially like how you added your cat that brought a lot more interest in the project Dick heppnerguy

Very nicely done. One to hang on the front room wall and be very proud of. Dick heppnerguy

Well done and nicely framed

I found groups of Halloween images that were available for making papercut lanterns. I put together various images to create scroll saw patterns for a four sided Halloween Lantern with four different sides. I already had some Transparent Orange Acrylic Plastic from my Previous Night Light project that I added the Drafting Velum to, to make it translucent. I used 1/4“ Solid Core Birch Ply. The lantern is 5.5" square by 8" tall (not including the 1 1/2" hight hanging pinicle on top). I used my typical mitered corners construction technique and the box was painted Black inside and out. Not happy with the finish as there are blemishes that are visible in the Photos below. I can't sand and repaint with the plexi in place and the box all glued together. I wanted the lantern to be lit with a battery operated LED light of some kind. I was looking at various products in Hobby Lobby and came across this small ‘Bottle Twinkle Light set with 10 LEDs’ for $2.99. The battery compartment is shaped like a cork for use in a bottle. I drilled a 5/8” dia. Hole in the bottom of the lantern. I inserted it with the Lights bunched up as you can se in the Photo below, so it acted like a lightbulb and is easily inserted and/or removed. Perfect amount of light. I plan to buy some very lightweight Black, 12 to 18" long, chain and hooks for hanging. Comments and critiques always welcome.

Love it. My favorite President.

Very nicely done, RJ

Another nicely done project Tbow.

Well done!

True story, year ago my wife and I were flying to go visit our son somewhere. During the flight the flight attendant can around with beverages. My wife ask for a can of juice. The flight attendant handed her one, which the attendant opened the tab with a little opener she wore on her finger like a ring. My wife an avid Pepsi drinker asked her where she got it. The attendant replied she really didn't remember but said she would send the info if my wife gave her a mail address. Must not have had email back then. My wife gave her the address. We were both thinking nothing would have come of it...but a couple months latter she got an envelope in the mail,,, Inside was the info of where to get them along with one of the openers as a gift. I thought that was pretty cool.

Just a few started, still need to sand and stain or paint.

My next Nativity scene WILL DEFINITELY include a rooster.

Nice Work BUT......A Turkey maybe, but what does a Rooster have to do with Christmas?

great job

Jerry Here's what mine looks like with 3 flags. Here are the two things I think you should do if you are going to do 3 flags. First scale up 40-50%. Next, for the two outer holes for the flags, I would angle 15 degrees outward, this will give the flags a place to open up. Below is how this one looks according to the PDF. I think I am going to make another. I gave this one to our cleaning lady, and she was so thrilled.

These past four years there have been Three Illinois state fairs. unfortunately last year was cancelled because of Covid. I generally choose a very detailed fretwork piece to enter into the IL state fairs woodworking scroll saw devision. I have finished 1st place in that woodworking devision for the last three years running. This year I decided on another clock. I will include it in this post as a jpeg. I have seen several places in this forum and other places people wanting to know what kind of blades they use. It is a personal preference for us all, however the following has helped me win first place three years running. Sharktooth #1 and 2 Various Pegas MGT or modified geometry for the line cuts and extreem cutouts Superior puzzle blades by Flying Dutchman for various wider cut outs This is all I use and since it has served me well, just thought some of you might like to know ds

I have 29 of these to do for a customer. Some will go to Ireland, some to Norway and the rest stay in Australia. Marg

I have been so busy at work @ NATO SACT HQ, finishing up one project and starting another one, plus I have been working on my permanent dust collection system in my workshop the last two weekends. Did a very easy project this AM. I really love walnut and how it finishes with raw linseed oil. The chocolaty color is yummy! This is a flag holder and it is for one of the cleaning ladies at NATO SACT HQ. I see her at 5:30 AM when I go from the 5th to the 3rd floor to get ice and filtered water. Somehow when we were talking she mentioned needing a flag stand for her flags. This actually holds three (3) flags. So it will have the NATO Flag, the US (or any other country) Flag, and the HQ SACT Flag. I like this design so much, I might crank out another one for my desk!!! Perhaps making it a hair bigger 30-50%.

My latest project is my bathroom cabinet which I put in the "Other works" forum....I am amazed how much I miss using my scroll saw. So here is the latest one I finished which I submitted in the bragging section awhile back. Hope to saw more fun items soon!

Every saw I have owned, DeWalt, Excalibur, Seyco, and Hegner have had sweet spots and not so sweet spots. All my saws but the Hegner lived on home made stands. My Hegner is on a mat. Maybe I'll try the shelf/weight first, thanks. I did have a cement bag in the bottom of the stands for my other saws. Sand may be better than cement. Speeking of homes, I borrowed $50K to build my home in 1980. That included the septic tank install and well drilled/pump install. The land was separate, 5 acers for 19K. I complain about my property taxes, but got an eye opener when we started looking a homes in town. Property taxes in city limits are like paying a morgage. I do not know how people do it. But still they will vote to pass every bond issue on the ballet and then complain about the taxes.

Wow! I'm always amazed to hear home prices in other parts of the country/world. Mine is nothing fancy at all, but nice enough for me. 3 bedroom, brick, 1,800 sq ft on 1/2 acre. We paid 49,000 in 90 and it might be worth around $200,000 now. Hard to imagine a 1900 sq ft house bringing 1.5 mil for us Alabama folks.