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More planes joining my fleet.

From this to these! Getting things ready for a craft sale at the beginning of November.

My 27 year old RBI 226vs is starting to show some wear. Been having trouble keeping tension on blade so I started checking things over and noticed the wedge on tensioning rod was rounded over on the point that sits in the arm. Its supposed to be a sharp point. Ordered a new wedge from Bushton on Sat and got in the mail yesterday. Put it on today And didn't have any trouble with keeping tension. I thought that was fast service and they even enclosed a note wishing Happy Halloween.

Well You Alls here is another craft to Brighten up your Day. Hehe Brighten. Hehe Just color. I like it. Cut this one out of BB1/4". Was a Lot of Fun. My Original Idea was to paint each Leaf a Different Color....BUT.... my Better Half convinced me that hey they are leafs. Be better Green. So.................All comments will be Nice. Danny :+}

For those who have a Menard in your area, I found this today. It is 12 inch round 1 inch think Pine for $2.22 and 11% rebate (1.98 after rebate). It is sanded and a really nice piece of wood. I only bought a couple but may get a few more.

I have to ask why do you even play around with that part of the saw. I have never touched that tension thing since I owned my saw and it probably as old as yours. How often do you change size of blades. I use the same blade for just about all cuts I make. If I happen to use a different size blade I make adjustments in the front tension by adjusting the depth I insert the blade. just never could understand that when people write they have a rounded over wedge. Does it rock some when you release front tension, maybe so slightly but nothing to wear metal. Maybe I am missing something. But I have cut a ton of work on my saws.

I've done that a few times with my saws.. Might take quite a lot of filing if it's really that rounded though.. I typically will take mine apart once a year or so and just dress it up on a flat surface with a piece of sandpaper and sharpen the point up. They can last a very long time provided they are oiled properly.. Getting them rounded out too badly can also wear the pointed surface on the actual arm and then you have a much bigger problem.. You have to send it off to Hawk and hopefully there is enough metal of the arm left so they can re-machine it.. They finally got smart and started making a "insert" on the arms so one can buy just the insert instead of having to machine the arm or replace it. For a small fee you can send in your arm and they'll machine the arm to accept those replacement inserts.. I might do this with my Ultra since I'll likely have that saw for a long time... The new BM26 came with the machined insert option..

Thanks for the update Frank, I think you'll be happy with the decision.. my experience with the WEN tools has been good so far.. However I have read some bad about their newest model scroll saw.. Many of their tools seem to be a knock-off of the higher end stuff and makes me wonder if it's actually the same tool.. I currently have a WEN belt sander that's been used a lot for over 10 years now, a WEN Dremel tool and now this Drill Press.. so far I've been happy with them.

Imperfections just show it’s handmade. One of my favorite quotes. “Ring the bells that still can ring. Forget your perfect offering. There is a crack in everything. That’s how the light gets in.”

I finished this Jim Blume pattern this afternoon and the wife dubbed it as being one of my best pieces. I'm not so sure about that but I will say it is an outstanding pattern and a lot of fun to cut. I tried to find my directions to count the number of cuts using Inkscape but never could locate them among my "never lose anything" filing system I have set up on my computer. This was cut using the Blonde wood I had located at Lowe's with a Birch backer. The piece is stained with Ipswich and the backer is stained with Ebony. Four coats of Polyacrylic and pre-fab framing material provided the finish. I do spline my frames. Despite the many holes, the piece is quite easy to cut. There is only one delicate area, that being the lower part of the eagle's neck... the part just under his beak. I encourage you to give it a try.

Latest work... Didn't care how long it took this time. Mutant Baltic birch 1/4" had many variations of tight and loose in the layers and was a challenge. Even with touch up sanding it still doesn't measure up to the pattern. Guess I gotta keep practicing !

I've been torn on if I really even like using oil on that as it tends to get messy and attract dust and grit. I started using a dry lube on mine.. in fact I think if you ask Hawk or look in the manual for the new saws that is what it recommends if I remember correctly. I started using this product from P.B. Blaster. https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/369279-blaster-garage-door-lubricant.html?blaintm_source=google&blaintm_medium=lia&setstore=41&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsp6pBhCfARIsAD3GZuaXMxevy-147voUGmPw9cNDV0iUkbYhhlX6bROqBSTz_-PI2o-zMlAaAkO-EALw_wcB I ended up liking this stuff so much that I've been using it on almost everything from car door hinges to lawn mower cables and wheels.. sure makes a slick surface and seems to last quite some time.

I have filed the old one a couple of times already. My biggest problem is I forget to put some oil on it. I very rarely change the back tension rod. With the old wedge I could wiggle it back and forth quite a bit when the tension was set. With the new wedge it is tight like it should be. Hopefully I will remember to put a couple drops of oil on it from now on.

That wedge is a wear point as it pivots slightly during the up / down stroke of the saw.. It's not about making adjustments with the tension.. I also do as you and never mess with it at all.. However it still wears over time just by running / using the saw. All three of my saws would wear the point on that wedge and I have the old round barrel clamp style, the ultra and the newest BM series saw and they all wear on that wedge. That said, I have no idea how long it takes for it to get worn to the point where you start having blade tension issues.. But it says right in one of the videos on their site that if you have problems with keeping the tension or blade breakage it could be that wedge is worn.. That wedge should be pointed to a pretty sharp edge on it almost to the point where it'd cut something.. I have seen then rounded over to the point that the edge was probably close to 1/16 thick on the edge instead of a nice pointed almost sharp edge. Never had blade issues with the 1/16" thick edge but that was the oldest saw when I first got it and I dressed it out just as I mentioned in my last reply.. there is no need to have to buy a new one unless you let it get worn down too far.. The more you dress that wedge the shorter it becomes and thus eventually you'll need to make some adjustments to the stop nut on the bottom of the tension rod.. You should be able to adjust that stop so the upper arm comes down and bottoms out at the correct height to insert the blade and thus being able to tension each new blade with the same tension every single time... unless you use Pegas blades because they cannot seem to make every blade the same length every time, LOL Or if you change blade sizes as smaller blades need less tension. I only change that if I'm using really small blades.. otherwise I tension all blades with the same setting until I get down into the 2/0 blades. Rarely use those small blades and most times instead of changing my saw settings I just move over to the Excalibur to do the cutting, so basically I never change the setup of my Hawks.

Good to hear but I am wondering, could one not file the old wedge to a point again? I do not, or have not owned an Hawk saw so I am just asking.

I think I will be able to handle putting this one together...only 57 lbs all together. I will not be using this DP to do my blade holes, I have a dremel DP setup for that that I use and works well. I needed this new DP for larger drilling using Fostner Bits and the like. It won't be getting a lot of use, but when needed, it will be there. I've cursed not having one more than once. Not sure exactly how I will set it up. Will not go on my WB. I'll build a stand (fixed or movable still TBD) that will allow me to use it while tucked away in the corner. Seat height or standing height, again, stil TBD. I'm thinking a semi-fixed stand connected to the wall, but could be detached and would allow me to move it out if needed for driling a long piece. Got to be creative, again becae of my very limited space. After I get it all setup I post some follow up pics. PS; Virgina Beach? Heck that is only about 12 hours away. We were up there last year for a family Vacation. Your welcome to come down anytime for a visit. We have a Guest Bedroom.

I have two of these chucks. They are great.

Excellent Frank, I am sure you will like it. To bad we were not closer (I am in VA Beach), I'd help you put it together and on the bench. The 4212 is probably the one I should have gotten too, but as you saw in our PMs, I got the 4214 for only a $7 difference. As I was driving home from work yesterday, I had an epiphany. My workbenches not only roll, but they are adjustable in height. So as soon as I got home, got out of my office clothes, I proceeded to lower the work bench the new 4214T sits on by 5 inches. I could have done 6 inches, but I would lose one bolt securing it then. (Two is one, one is none.) I had to move the "monster" off the workbench, I slid it over to my other bench. Lowered each bench leg, flipped it back over and then slid the monster back into place. Of course, the 6-inch difference in height made it a little tricky to move then, so I advise all... don't be dumb like me... .trying to heft a 4214T by yourself. Combined with me adjusting the chuck movement, I can stay seated in my stool at the same height as I scroll at. It's only when I carve, I will have to lower it some. No big deal.

Any number of Steve Good bowls could be cut from this.

Well I made a decision so we can put this post to bed. First, however, let me say THANK YOU to all who replied with info and made recommendations. I liked the price of the WEN 4208T but did not like the need to change belt/pully combinations to change speed. I did a lot of research and would have purchased the WEN 4214T as a lot of you have done, but the size and weight was a concern. A drill press will need to be mounted on a movable base so it can be tucked in the corner of my small shop but be able to be pulled out when needed to use with larger material. I decided to buy the WEN 4212T which is a little smaller in size and about 30 lbs lighter but does have variable speed control and laser. It does not thave a work light but I can add a mag-light if needed. I ordered a Keyless chuck at the same time. It should arrive Monday. Thanks again to all.

You are your own worst critic, just like the rest of us. You did a terrific job, go easy on yourself. Marg

Beautiful indeed. Marg

Wow that is awesome. Marg

A fabulous looking piece Charlie, well done. Marg

Always good to hear of great customer service.

I'll bet the round sign makers would love these. There are a lot of people that make these round signs and they scroll saw text and then cut shapes of themed things and glue them to the round part. Search Etsy for round sign and get you some ideas.. Here is something I just searched and thought was pretty cool. These used to sell really well.. not sure now how well they sell but 5-7 years ago these was a hot item. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1276706674/fall-door-hanger-svg-laser-cut-files?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=round+sign&ref=sr_gallery-1-27&bes=1&sts=1&dd=1&organic_search_click=1

They are also the perfect size to make a Lazy Susan. I love the clock Idea. Thought I would pass my find along to anyone who might be interested.

There are many circular patterns in the pattern library under "Utilitarian". These could be used for large pan trivets or cake holders or ... To bad the closest Menards to me is over 500 miles away, sigh.

It's a Sue Mey. She sells them on her personal site and Etsy.

It looks good. Your being to hard on yourself.

Recently made some Jack-o-lanterns, the others are from past Halloween's.

Been a while since I cut anything monster/horror-related (I do have a couple printed out and in the to-cut stack), due to some on-going family crises, but here's a couple I've done over the years. These usually hang around our office area at work during October.

You could make one for small bits with a Dremel. Acutabove Woodworking has a video on how to on his website.

I made a Thing

My Box-O-Lanterns and a Hanging Halloween Lantern