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Okay first off yes these was done on the laser. I posted here because aside from the text around the ornament being engraved these could easily be done with a scroll saw. The designer is on Etsy shop name “ Homestyle Customs “ and they have a lot of pattern files that easily could translate to scrolled work. When you download the designs they come in a few different formats one of which is PDF for easily made to print and cut on a scroll saw. With the laser the box joints are precise enough that the box needs no glue, just snaps together. I used a different than normal plywood so the fist few I made the laser was too much power and it cut through too deep on the engraved text and some of the top laminate came off on the a’s, b’s r’s etc so near the end of the batch I finally figured out the power level to work best. Lol I cut them from Maple and the backers from walnut. Oh I should mention that the patterns come with the ring of icons around the outer edge of the ornaments or without them. I have the icons shown here but without the icons the center portion is much larger and probably a much easier way to do on a scroll saw. I’m going to make the ones without next. Almost think without the icons might look better without all the small icons taking away from the center of the main image.

Well You Alls here is another craft to Brighten up your Day. Hehe Brighten. Hehe Just color. I like it. Cut this one out of BB1/4". Was a Lot of Fun. My Original Idea was to paint each Leaf a Different Color....BUT.... my Better Half convinced me that hey they are leafs. Be better Green. So.................All comments will be Nice. Danny :+}

From this to these! Getting things ready for a craft sale at the beginning of November.

I saw this Eagle Welcome Plaque by S. Good in one of his emails a while back and thought it would be a nice piece to make and add to my Eagle Collection. I modified his pattern slightly to make it as large as possible and still be able to fit on a the 12” wide precut panels I use. This resulted is the 1/4” thick Solid Core Red Oak ply cut panel being a nominal 14” x 11” mounted to a 1/2” thick painted premium ply backer being a nominal 15” x 12”. I rounded the perimeter top edge of the backer with a 1/4" round-over bit in tmy Router table. I also did away with his “WELCOME” third layer and cut the letters directly into the now single top layer. I use Pegas #3 MGT R to cut pattern and the perimeter of the backer. I would prefer using a spiral blade, but for this type of cutting, and as everyone knows, the regular blade produces a much nicer looking clean-cut edge. Just had to be a lot more careful keeping the blade from walking off track and to be extra careful making my sharp inside and outside corners. The backer was primed and then painted rattle can Brick Red. I then masked off the plaque to allow me to paint the area under the word “WELCOME”, white. After assembly I gave the entire plaque multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer. Comments and critiques always welcome.

Nice looking wreath, I don't know about the other two men that responded before me, The leaves can be any darn color you want no matter what she says,,, oops got to go, my she is looking over my shoulder... I may be gone for a little while..

LOML decided the little crosses were too plain, so she blinged them up.

More planes joining my fleet.

A Very Good Question Paul.... Was around 2 years back when I was Taught this persons Method. He was like a Teacher for Various subjects. Inlay was one. Did mention a time or two that he was Canadian. So the Inlay is just Saving a Cut-out, filling the lil hole in with a compound, sanding good and Painting. I Enjoy this a lot. Danny :+}

Kentucky is the farthest south and Wyoming is farthest west.

I love the little nativities. I also love the way you do a little extra an some of your puzzles like the different wood for the mane and tale of the horses. Added color to othe piecs. Sets them apart. Nice work on all

My 27 year old RBI 226vs is starting to show some wear. Been having trouble keeping tension on blade so I started checking things over and noticed the wedge on tensioning rod was rounded over on the point that sits in the arm. Its supposed to be a sharp point. Ordered a new wedge from Bushton on Sat and got in the mail yesterday. Put it on today And didn't have any trouble with keeping tension. I thought that was fast service and they even enclosed a note wishing Happy Halloween.

Very nice Kevin.

Very nice Frank, RJ

Awesome job!

Great cutting look very good.

Well it looks nice.

Thanks for the Dry lube suggestion.! Not so much for the saw but for my Garage door. I used lithium lube spray on the drive screw (duh) and I ended up with drips on my TVR. I am very happy that Bushton is more active and they even have a facebook page !! I still love my Hawk G4.

Thanks Paul. The mane and tail are actually painted. It is a bronze colour that has a bit of sparkle to it. The horns are painted with a multi-colour sparkle.

Well Kevin I have to say I must have gotten the golden 2 saws. Have a 220 and 226 and both are as sharp as the day I bought them. That wedge does not move one iota when scrolling and when changing blades at all. I have tons of hours on those saws. I will never sharpen or touch them ever and they will be as pristine as they are now. Not sure what you guys are doing. The only time I get blade breakage is if using jewler's blade or those thin puzzle blades. Or if I am pushing the life out of a blade because too lazy to change one. Now blades pop out of clamps because I forget to sand the edges of blade to rid it of oils. I have dressed the thumb screws often and have changed them the most. I wish they would use the ones like Hegner does with the floating washer. Other than that no oils just vac the dust off after each session. Had to change the front tension lever on each saw once so far and have back ups if need to do again. Now those spinning points I use dry lube on. I believe that RBI has the best saws on the market. Sold my Dewalt 788 and my Hegner this past summer. Never really used them anywhere near as much as the RBIs The hegner was set up to scroll those collapsable baskets because I was making so many different styles of them, setting that angle was a pain on the RBI. Stopped making them so gone goes that saw. Guy got a good deal and a good saw. Same with the person who got my Dewalt.

I use a spiral blade on them so it does go a lot faster for me that way. I really like getting back into the spiral and having some interesting as well as a little challenge cutting them. Thanks for the nice comment too Dick heppnerguy

It is nothing compared to your work but it has been a step above what I usually cut, so I am happy with it. Thank you for your nice comments though, I appreciate you taking your time to do so Dick heppnerguy

Yes there are a few holes in this one for sure. A little challenging and kept me out of the house for awhile, but one I enjoyed making Dick heppnerguy

This is my go to dry lube: https://www.howardpianoindustries.com/micro-fine-ptfe-powder/ The average particle size is 3 microns. This stuff will work into the pores of the metal and the end result is the parts rub Teflon on Teflon instead of metal on metal. The one oz size will last for years.

Very nice work Barb. I like the puzzles. All the best with the sale.

Very nice, sales should be good for you, RJ

That wedge is a wear point as it pivots slightly during the up / down stroke of the saw.. It's not about making adjustments with the tension.. I also do as you and never mess with it at all.. However it still wears over time just by running / using the saw. All three of my saws would wear the point on that wedge and I have the old round barrel clamp style, the ultra and the newest BM series saw and they all wear on that wedge. That said, I have no idea how long it takes for it to get worn to the point where you start having blade tension issues.. But it says right in one of the videos on their site that if you have problems with keeping the tension or blade breakage it could be that wedge is worn.. That wedge should be pointed to a pretty sharp edge on it almost to the point where it'd cut something.. I have seen then rounded over to the point that the edge was probably close to 1/16 thick on the edge instead of a nice pointed almost sharp edge. Never had blade issues with the 1/16" thick edge but that was the oldest saw when I first got it and I dressed it out just as I mentioned in my last reply.. there is no need to have to buy a new one unless you let it get worn down too far.. The more you dress that wedge the shorter it becomes and thus eventually you'll need to make some adjustments to the stop nut on the bottom of the tension rod.. You should be able to adjust that stop so the upper arm comes down and bottoms out at the correct height to insert the blade and thus being able to tension each new blade with the same tension every single time... unless you use Pegas blades because they cannot seem to make every blade the same length every time, LOL Or if you change blade sizes as smaller blades need less tension. I only change that if I'm using really small blades.. otherwise I tension all blades with the same setting until I get down into the 2/0 blades. Rarely use those small blades and most times instead of changing my saw settings I just move over to the Excalibur to do the cutting, so basically I never change the setup of my Hawks.

Great looking stuff, Barb. Good luck!

Looks like you've got a good start for the sale. Good luck although your cuttings are so nice, you won't likely need luck.

500 miles would get me about another 500 away. IDK for sure, but don't think Menards has many locations west of the Mississippi.

Any number of Steve Good bowls could be cut from this.

Wow that is awesome. Marg

Nice warhogs , of course bottom is my favorite. Beautiful work. I hope the variety of your fleet brings repeat customers. The sound the gun makes is so loud. Brrrrrrrrrrr. Me. Matk Eason

Beautiful!

I am with you on the spirals. I just can't seem to get the hang of them. Plus, they give me a lot rougher cut than my FD Ultra reverse blades. I am moving into doing more fretwork style pieces and have had success with #1 and #3 FD ultra-Reverse blades, but I know I could do bigger pieces if I master spirals. Sigh...

Boy Dick, you have some fine cutting their. I see a lot of blade changes. I still can't get used to a spiral blade. One of these days maybe.

Dick, like everyone, it is beautiful. My question to you is, "How do you cut the paper?". Is it special paper or really thick? Paper is so flimsy. Jerry

Only can say GREAT WORK. Beautiful..

Wow, that is lovely. Perfect backer too. Great work Dick. Marg

Very well done would take me longer than few hours.

Awesome piece, Dick. If it only took you a few hours to cut that, you're a lot faster than me.

For those that would like to cut it it is in our pattern library under Animals

Thanks Charlie. I finally found the directions to count the holes. Turns out this piece has just under 900 but Jim signed the piece with a few of those. A good guestimation would be around 875. I've found the more detailed a pattern, the more I like cutting it. I did have some fuzzies. I used a torch and needle file to get rid of them.

Holy cow Rodney! Beautiful job on an amazing pattern. I zoomed in and I love all the tiny holes. They really add to the realistic look. Also noticed you did an excellent job getting rid of any fuzzies. That had to be tedious. Fantastic job.

Yep this is a great cut! I need to locate that pattern (just what I need another pattern I want to cut). You did a terrific job on it.

A perfect companion piece to the first one. Great cutting.

awesome job

Dick, that is absolutely beautiful....nice painting on the background!

That’s great work. Scale of one to ten you get a twenty on that one!

Really nice job Dick! Lots of holes in that one.