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I had to revisit this cut and this time cut it out of a piece of real wood.

Skeleton Cat. A pattern from the Scroll saw Workshop which I did slightly differently. The cat is cut from a 1/4 inch Bamboo chopping board then sprayed black. To cut the skeleton I used a very fine drill for the blade entry holes then cut out each piece and painted them white. The pieces were then carefully glued back into place and because the cat does not have a backing board the skeleton can be seen from both sides. Happy Halloween everyone ! Regards, Alan.

First off thank you FrankEV, as soon as I saw this pattern I just knew I had to try it. I do apologize for butchering it but I really enjoyed cutting it! Another one for the sand and finish pile. I'm going to see if I can find a piece of live edge or at least a decent piece of solid wood and try it again, because I'd love to hang this somewhere.

As the title says another fun H Botas pattern, I may try to color this one too. My wife is a RN so I thought it was fitting. A fun cut.

A few more: I did a before and after painting picture.

So far I committed to 2 shows before Christmas so the shop is humming.

I find it interesting how you have your Dremel drill set up. It looks like it’s attached to a shelf upside down, but the drill part is right side up. If that’s the case, how in the heck did you get it all square? By the way, nice new drill press ya got there

Frank, I am just telling you this, because I know how it goes in my shop...You laid your glasses on the scroll saw table if you are looking for them. That is how I spend my time in my shop, looking for where I laid my darn glasses! Nicely arranged shop.

NOT ENOUGH!

Had a Co-worker ask me for a Louisiana Tech logo for his mancave. He graduated from there. This is what I came up with.

I have been away from most of my intarsia making projects and decided to try and make a few of the patterns I have had around for awhile. In doing so I found a photo of this one somewhere on line and downloaded the photo and attempted to make a pattern from it and cut make it, as i sort of liked the little guy. Here is what I ended up with. The one thing I added to the wood to get what I wanted from it was the multiple little lines on the owls body by simply using a wood burning too to make them. I have never tried that before and thought it worked fairly well this time. Dick heppnerguy

Recently made some Jack-o-lanterns, the others are from past Halloween's.

The good news. The replacement WEN 4212T arrived today (10/18/23) and putting it together for the second time was a snap. Even the table up/down crank seems to be less sloppy than the one I returned. Again, I’m very happy, everything is working well, and it runs quiet and smoothly at all speeds. I built a fixed, 32” high, mini bench in the corner of my shop for the drill press. Although I had to rearrange some wall hanging tools and dust collector hoses, it fits like a glove. And although the shop is getting a little more cramped, its location does not interfere with any of my operations. Only my trash bucket had to be moved closer to the Scroll Saw. Now the bad news. I wanted to bolt down the DP with some 1/2” dia. bolts as recommended in the instructions. Well as I tightened them down, I obviously cinched down too much, and the cheap thin sand-casted base cracked/broke in half. I salvaged the situation by removing the base and using four 3/8” Dia. x 4” long bolts, I mounted the collum directly to the bench top. I like it better as the base just got in the way anyhow and now there is room to lay down bits and tools as needed. So here are a bunch of pics that show the DP installation and my shop. Most were taken standing in one spot and just turning around for each pic as I don’t have very much room to walk very far. Close up of DP Broken base Feel free to snicker all you want!

More planes joining my fleet.

Layered Snowflake Ornament #1 pattern by Keith Fenton and found in SWWC Winter issue page 72. I stack cut two blanks 1/4" x 4" square for each top (Ash) and back (Eastern Red Cedar}. I found the Eastern Red Cedar is too fragile and broke when sanding, so I balanced by cutting off every other little piece. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using #1 MGT blades. After sanding, dipped in diluted Shellac and the one coat of spray Lacquer Clear Gloss. Comments welcome.

Three more football plaques done. Team colors for each. Steve Good pattern to start, I replaced the text added the shaker pegs and the countersunk holes under the stripes The piece is 2, 1/2" BB laminated together after the interior cuts in the top, exterior cuts made after lamination ( 1" thick ), interior cuts made with FD Polar #1, exterior cuts made with FD polar #5. Lamination with polyurethane glue applied with a 4" foam roller then weighted down by a cinder block. 3 1/2" shaker pegs.

Very well done

Very nicely cut Colin

What kind of wood? How thick? What size panel (W & H)? Backer? Frame or not? Love to see what sombody else does with a pattern I provided. Just need details!

I've posted about my upside down dremel a while back. I just flipped the press on the shaft and mounted underthe shelf. This arrangement allows me to drill blade holes in boards up to 22 inches wide. The shelf is level so It is close to plumb and square. Accurate enough for tiny blade holes, which is all I use it for. AND, that is also why I bought a real drill press.

What saw are you using? That might help us to understand what you are experiencing. My first thought is that this doesn't seem normal. Are we talking about blade holding mechanisms? A picture cold be useful as well.

So to day I post my African Big Five cut (remember my Lion Project) well this is it. The Big Five is very special to all South Africans because it’s part our heritage. Before I tell you what the problems were and how I approached them, please don’t tell me you don’t like the colour of the back round or the texture of the board is not right that’s immaterial, just look at the cuttings and the work, put into it. All the patterns are Russ Beard Patterns, the cuttings were all double stack 4mm Birch Plywood the Lion is the Centre price and was cut on a 11”x14” my standard board size, the Leopard, Buffalo and Rhino had to be reduced in size keeping a eye on the aspect to keep the proportions right, but by reducing the size made the cuts more difficult, adding to the problem only the Lion was a Free Standing Pattern the others were all inboard patterns so with Russ’s approval and help from my wife Loraine how is a great artist we converted the patterns on the fly to stand alone pattern of Ouse the Elephant had to bigger to.Time plenty hours, holes I estimate between 3000-5000 holes cuts. The patterns were soaked in Danish Oil drained and excess wiped off allowed to dry for two days and the two coats clear varnish. This type of cut deserves a very special back round so I will be taking a photo of the African Savannah and glue that to the backer and the the cuts on top of that in layers. I’m very happy with the results even though the stain was unpredictable the colour of the animals can vary from area to area so it does not bother me.

Yes and the base for the sanding station, more than 18 years ago,

Very nicely laid out Frank. That's packing 10 pounds into a 5 pound bag for sure. I hope you are going to let Wen know about that broken base. It needs to be made better and that won't happen unless they know there's a problem. I'm sure they'll ship you a new one. Especially since this is your second attempt at getting a good DP. Thanks for all the pics. You've given me a few good ideas for how I can get more out of my small workspace.

CLAMPS!!!! You got CLAMPS!!!

Real nice work, RJ

Frank, glad to see that you made out well with the drill press, your shop looks great, I really like your router table did you make that, RJ

THe first photos show the car after I installed a chin spoiler. I have done a lot of resto-mods. 2006 S197 model. Windveil Blue

great job

I am my greatest critic of my work. Perhaps you are as well Eplfan 2011.Looking closely I do see a bit (very minor) of waver on the bottom bough sometimes it is not our inabilities. Sometimes the blade follows a grain or soft spot in the wood

Here you go!

That looks great. I find on some things I really slowly the saw down. Great pattern...where did you get it.

Here lately I have seen quite a few posts of scrollers not happy with the result. I don't know about you, but I wish I could cut wood like most or you do. I wold be estatic if I could cut that well. Jerry

so this is the wood dust overseer spirit. Setting next to the dust collector.

A few more items for stock. One of my upcoming shows is for a cat rescue, hence the two cat puzzles. Wood is poplar ordered from KJP hardwood.

A few months ago a French Officer I work with at NATO SACT HQ* asked if I could make a US Flag for him out of wood. I thought I could come up with something better, and told him so, but I said it would be a while. Well, I am slowly working on it getting done and the first piece was cut out this morning. I using 1/4" and 1/2" Basswood for this piece as I will be painting it. I am using a couple of patterns from Steve Good combining Lady Liberty from another of his patterns. Of course, since the French gave us Liberty as a gift, adding her to this piece is a bit more meaningful in my mind. So here is where I am at today, and will post updates as this piece progresses. *North American Treaty Organization Supreme Allied Command Transformation Head Quarters in Norfolk VA.

This piece is for a Corvette club. 1/4-inch Baltic Birch stained natural with a Birch backer painted red. Four coats of Polyacrylic with light sanding between coats. The frame was pre-fabricated cut to size and splined for strength. I double stacked this piece and the other has a backer stained Ebony.

I saw this Eagle Welcome Plaque by S. Good in one of his emails a while back and thought it would be a nice piece to make and add to my Eagle Collection. I modified his pattern slightly to make it as large as possible and still be able to fit on a the 12” wide precut panels I use. This resulted is the 1/4” thick Solid Core Red Oak ply cut panel being a nominal 14” x 11” mounted to a 1/2” thick painted premium ply backer being a nominal 15” x 12”. I rounded the perimeter top edge of the backer with a 1/4" round-over bit in tmy Router table. I also did away with his “WELCOME” third layer and cut the letters directly into the now single top layer. I use Pegas #3 MGT R to cut pattern and the perimeter of the backer. I would prefer using a spiral blade, but for this type of cutting, and as everyone knows, the regular blade produces a much nicer looking clean-cut edge. Just had to be a lot more careful keeping the blade from walking off track and to be extra careful making my sharp inside and outside corners. The backer was primed and then painted rattle can Brick Red. I then masked off the plaque to allow me to paint the area under the word “WELCOME”, white. After assembly I gave the entire plaque multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer. Comments and critiques always welcome.

I'm glad you still like them. I'm working on this year's kit now. Usually, I release them on November 1st. I usually run a 50% off sale on the current year's design, which goes through Cyber Monday.

Sorry no wood projects. But Travis says anything holloween goes. Chicken wire, White paint, and DJ lights. @Travis you can delete this if it is disqualified.

I almost hate to throw my hat into the ring with such awesome projects. My little ole skull pales in comparison to you guys. Here it is anyway though.

I have made several of these skeletons. My grandson loves them.

Been a while since I cut anything monster/horror-related (I do have a couple printed out and in the to-cut stack), due to some on-going family crises, but here's a couple I've done over the years. These usually hang around our office area at work during October.

Backlit Haunted House

As I said in a post yesterday, nobody knows what the pattern looked like, therefore no mistakes; Jerry

As Bob Ross would say, "A happy little accident"

I am running into a problem with tearing up cap screws. I have to tighten them so tight that in no time at all I have replace them because they are striped out. Is that normal? I am new to scrolling and not sure what is normal and what is not. I have replaced the hex wrenches a couple of times and also have ground them off so I can use them longer. I now buy cap screws in bags of 100.