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I have my last show of the year coming up this week end, getting projects finalized.

Been wanting to post some cuts I finished up but just be lazy in getting around to it. Waiting around for grandson to arrive today for the weekend and just said get it done Jim. Here they are my thanks to the pattern designers who did the work, I did the fun cuts. The family group is by jik the UCLA is from an old group of patterns from way back in the day. Tine is by Botas Helder not sure on the 2 horse heads. Th life of Christ in the head of Jesus is one I have had for years. The welcomes are by Jessica Borhm. The Bear is by Russ Beard the lion head is unknown, the wolf is by Botas Helder The wine saying is by Jim Blume.

I use two kinds of sanding mops a lot, but I would not consider either a detail sander. I have two rotary tools, a Craftsman (very old) and a Dremel. I can do detailed work with these, but I find them clunky and lacking in power. My go to is my old Grizzly G9928 - Flex Shaft Grinder. It can use anything that will work in a Dremel and has plenty of power and a foot pedal speed control. If it ever dies, I'll probably spring for a Foredom tool.

@JTTHECLOCKMAN thanks for the info. I have been on this forum for 9 years and am still learning and realizing I have a lot more to learn. I always appreciate it when someone shares their knowledge.

Since I don't waste my time watching any sports I decided to do my new favorite time killer, working in the shop (Scrolling something) Decided on this SG rabbit pattern. Reduced in size by 20% to fit a scrap of 3/8" canary wood I had laying around.

Great stuff Kevin. I hope that this turns out to be my issue. The fact that it happened so suddenly, without any warning and that nothing seems loose, broken or out of alignment, it would make sense. I can't seem to isolate the noise precisely, but If I were to guess, I'd say it is coming from the bottom arm. My first thought was that the lower thumbscrew was hitting the underside of the table, but that wasn't the case. I'm getting air out of my blower nozzle, which would seem to lend credence to it being the bottom arm. Thanks again Kevin. It may be a few days before I get back to this, but I'll post an update on what I find.

Using the loc-line tool is much easier.

Got a email today from Advanced they are having a black friday sale, 200.00 off the saw and get 300.00 off any add on's, stand and what ever, RJ

Here is my latest projects. I Loved the bird on a wire so I made one. Its part of several things I donated to my Church to raise some money for a project the Pastor is working on. The Vase with the hert is for my MotherInLaw's Christmas. The Jesus Is a part of the Church Project and has already sold. The Sunflower vase is a project from me and my wife. I made tha vase and she burned the sunflower. The Handymans box is for my son for Christmas. The box (Its a God Box), write down your problems, stick them in the box and let God deal with it. Another one of the Church projects. It is inlayed with Yahweh in Hebrew.

Thought I would get a conversation going about some of the past and present scrollsaw pattern makers we all have encountered. I will start with my story and this will probably be long because I have been scrolling for over 50 years now. Started on an old 2 speed Dremel saw back in the day and then bought a hegner 18" and a Dewalt 788 that basically fell in my lap when Home Depot was selling them out. Paid $80 brand new with stand. How do you pass that up. Then it was on to 2 RBIs. 220VS and 226VS and the rest is history. I started following Rick and Karen Longabough and did hundreds of his patterns over the years. Then it was Dirk Boelman and his beautiful patterns. Then it was Dan and Ray Wilckens and man their work was beautiful too. I also followed John Nelson and in fact I worked on many projects for him testing his designs for Steebar Corp. back when the owner was a great guy. when he passed that company went down hill but many of my projects are still featured in his catalog. I have done many of Sue Mey patterns as well. I have done a few of Steve Goods patterns over time. I never did many of Pat Spielman patterns. Must mention the great pattern makers here on this site that have helped me over time also. Shout out to them. I bring this up for a reason because I ran into an old thread on another forum where we talked about a couple of these greats. here is the thread and interesting read. I have to say the clock that Dirk Boelman had many scrollers complete was a site to see as he use to bring it to the scrollsaw picnics they use to hold every year. those that are old enough and go back to those days remember what I am talking about. Walk down memory lane folks. Check the photos out. You will notice I mixed the artists up and was questioning others about it and then it became clear. https://forum.scrollsawer.com/forum/scroll-saw/general-scroll-saw/848105-put-those-minds-to-work

Yeah, that happen to me, LOL... I bought the new BM-26 and a month later one popped up for $700 that was never really used in the next town over.. I needed to use it as a tax deduction anyway but. On the other hand I was offered a Hegner Mutimax 14 with stand, foot switch and magnifier light for $40 at a estate sale and I walked.. It was old and didn't have any of the comfort things on it.. I kinda kicked myself for it but then 4 years later ( this spring ) I had that newer model Multimax 18 with foot switch etc. given to me. I almost walked on it as there was no blade holders with it so I couldn't even try it.. but that was a good thing because I would have happily gave him the $200 he was asking but since it was missing stuff he said take it or it was going in the big dumpster.. I said I'll take it.. he even carried it up the hill and loaded it in my car, LOL He was just cleaning out the house as quick as possible for a house sale as his parents just went into a care home. I could of had the whole shop.. but most other tools was cheap stuff.

The bellows are pushed onto a little nub that is on the rocker arms.. I've even seen where they just popped off.. likely from the rubber becoming deteriorated over the years.. You might be able to use some tape.. probably electrical tape would work as it's a bit more flexible.. to sort of doctor it up until you can get a new one mailed in to you. Also might be able to match something up at a auto parts store. CV boots for a small car or ATV and cut it down might also work.. Here is what it should look like when pulling the end caps off.. https://seyco.com/product/ex21-c27c-top-and-bottom-front-rocker-arm-assemblies/

Weird, I replied an hour ago on my phone but it didn't go through, LOL.. Probably show up after I re-type it all out again.. Yeah, you will have to remove just the one screw that holds the link arm that goes into the tube.. The one that goes back to the motor.. The other short links that go to the front blade chucks etc can stay on I think you just need to remove the one so you can pull out the end cap with the four screws on the tube itself.. That should allow you to pull that out and see back in there better. If your air blower is still working fine it's likely the one on the bottom arm.. but I would run the saw and try to determine if the noise is in the top or bottom arm. You might be able to shine a small pen light or similar in there and be able to see if the bellows has come apart or not..

I've been scrolling for 22 years now and have to say, when I look through my patterns, there's a LOT of Sue Mey and Sheila Landry/Keith Fenton patterns. Also have quite a few from Dirk Boelman, his Cathedral cross is my favorite. Another one I seem to collect is Pedro from Seville, Spain. He's at www.finescrollsaw.com. His patterns are not originals, but computer precision remakes of old patterns. They tend to be pricey, but worth it. I have him email me the patterns, but they are designed for much larger paper, so I simply forward them to my local print shop that has paper that size. My favorite of his is the Venetian bird cage, and I made that one.

I agree, I have the 3/4" and the 1/2" but I think the price they want for a plastic tool is outrageous.

One of the founding members of our scroll saw club was Ernie Lang. His passion was searching out, restoring and cutting old scroll saw patterns from around the turn of the century. That was the main reason he started the club. He wasn't necessarily a pattern designer himself, but more of a historian and preservationist. He knew most of the major fretwork pattern designers of the day. Ernie passed away a number of years ago. Unfortunately, a lot of scrolling knowledge and history passed with him. Attached is an article from SSW&C magazine. Hope you find it an interesting read. https://scrollsawer.com/2009/09/02/ernie-langs-scrolling-scrapbook/

I do not want to flood the topic with my photos but was just trying to show the sheen I can get with different methods of finish. Back when I started I did not have a digital camera. Everything was rolls of film and now trying to transfer to digital has proven not in my wheelhouse so lot of my projects will not get seen except for those holding my photo albums. I use to bring them to shows and show them to customers to get ideas of what I make.

I always share any knowledge I can whenever a subject comes up that I have info on. Any questions asked of me and I will answer straight up. Now many times there is many more ways than mine to do certain things but I will share the ways that I do things over the years. Glad to help.

I now official hate you all. (just kidding) You made me go looking for the praying hands pattern. Kevin had it right. It is in this book. On page 82 under Religious clocks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0963311263/ref=x_gr_bb_amazon?ie=UTF8&tag=x_gr_bb_amazon-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0963311263&SubscriptionId=1MGPYB6YW3HWK55XCGG2 It is by Rick Longabough. I can tell his work anywhere for I made sooooooo many of his patterns over the years. You guys made me look in my filing cabinets that has 6 drawers filled with patterns. And within those there are a ton of patterns that I wanted to do over the years and as I looked through some I just kept shaking my head.

Just like buying a new car versa a used car... I am fine with either, but the boss, my wife say there is a reason someone got rid of a used car. True, but not always a bad reason. I will look at either.

In the finishing world too it is a no-no to put lacquer over poly or vice versa too. But in the case of using lacquer over Danish oil is not a problem because the amount of poly in Danish oil is minimal. As I said unless you start using more than one coat because now you are building up the poly on the surface. The poly on the first coat is absorbed into the wood. I used this method all the time because I use Danish oil as a means of so called popping the grain as opposed to using just BLO. If you are afraid to use Danish oil and want to top coat then you better off using BLO and top coat with whatever you prefer. When I say I use waterbase lacquer, the product I only use is this. Been using it for years and love the look. What makes it nice to use is the ease to clean the gun. Just run water through it and when done I spray some denatured alcohol to dry the interior workings better. I spray all my desk watches with waterbase lacquer. https://www.targetcoatings.com/product/emtech-em6000-wb-production-lacquer/ Now I think I must explain my method of finishing projects like your praying hands clock and most of my projects including my shelves, mirrors, magazine racks and all clocks basically. But I make so many different items and there are some that I do differently. But for the majority I have always done this. Now this is my method of doing this stuff and have done it since I started. I cut as you do. I sand entire project with 220 grit paper. Blow dust off with air compressor. i do not assemble as you do. I dip in a large container of Danish oil. I let sit for about 5 to 10 minutes and pull item out and let it drip on a container lid lying flat so all fluids do not pool in all the fret work. Then I wipe for the first time and set aside on plywood with stickers under the piece so they are not laying flat. They stay that way until I am ready for final wipe down with clean cloth and again set on plywood the same way but they are now there to dry for ood. After about 3 days I am ready to wax them and the 3 days is approximate because of what I have planned or whatever else I am working on. I then coat each project with a light coat of Watco wood wax. I let sit again over night. next day a quick wipe down and polish the pieces and now they are ready for assembly and price tags and for sale. The waxing is an added step I have been doing because of the feel and the look of the soft sheen is tremendously appealing when people pick up and touch. Many people have commented on this. Now when using exotic woods for bases I use a different method. I again cut, sand and dip in Danish oils and wipe dry and wait till dry. I then use lemmon oil with Micromesh sanding pads to polish them. I do this because with exotic woods such as rosewoods they are closed grain woods that are oil filled. Yo use that to the advantage of putting a high gloss sheen on the wood by polishing it. After I MM it I will take it over to my buffing wheel and really put a sheen on it with buffing wheel using the white diamond and also a wood wax. These steps for finishing sets my work off compared to others work I have seen out there and believe me I have seen some others work. Does it mean anything in the long scheme of things, maybe not but to me it was the way I learned woodworking. Not to cut corners and present the best product I can. I have included a few photos that maybe you can see the different sheens of what I am talking about.

I have my system setup so I can move it between my Hawk and the EXcalibur. This it mounted on my EX. I did not glue the joints on the PVC incase something gets caught. I have two mag switches that hold the setup to the saws. I had to put a steel plate on the EX table for them to work.

You do realize instead of just watching your projects dry, you could scroll, WHILE they dry... Just say'n I tried watching my projects dry.. I fell asleep.

Good afternoon everyone. My name is Alex. We are a family of refugees from Ukraine. In Ukraine, my hobby was carpentry. I also kept bees. I really wanted to make something for the house in the shape of a hexagon like a honeycomb. I decided to make a watch. My family really liked this clock; it set the style in our kitchen. When we were getting ready to leave Ukraine, my wife wanted to take them with us as souvenirs. I told her that she didn’t need to do this. I'll try to make the same ones in the new place. We didn't know then where we would end up. With God's help we ended up in Quebec. I recently made a clock and it reminds us of our home in Ukraine, as if we were at home.

Two day show last weekend. Set up was on Friday afternoon. I have done this show for about ten years now. I had to miss it last year though as work wast so hectic that I didn’t have time to cut. Because of that, I lost the prime spot. I was way in the back of the room. Despite that, I had the best sales I have ever had. 80% of sales were credit or debit cards. My best sales were anything Christmas, but most sales came from ornaments. I have two price points of ornaments placed on two different trees. The Sleigh and reindeers sold for $250. The large Steve Good Nativity sold for $250. The biggest problem I had was working by myself. At times there were customers waiting in line to buy!

Ray, The only saws you get around here are porter cable, HF, and other junk, RJ