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This one has taken me a while. Just a few more details and it is done. In this photo, I still have not secured the uprights to the base, so keep that in mind when looking closely. Still deciding on how I want to finish it too. A few broken parts due to some delicate design areas. For one of the buildings, I did not add details cuts as it would have been another weak area. Now that I am getting a handle on these types of projects, I am going to mark up the pattern with my changes to strengthen some of the areas and prevent breakage. I am also thinking I am going to go to a thicker wood vs the 1/4", as I would also like to start adding some of my carving details.

It's a simple project compared to all of the super fantastic items I've seen in this website, but the fact that I didn't ruin it is just enough to brag about, a little. 1/4" BB painted black.

I make a lot of toys and paint many of them. As a general rule, I don't use primers. However, I use white primer or white paint as the base when painting lighter or brighter colors. The white base will make the colors brighter and let you cover them with less paint. Yellow and Orange are primary examples. You can get great results painting with a brush, but it is a skill like scrolling. It takes practice. Use good brushes and multiple coats sanding between coats until you get it smooth and the coverage you want. I use Loew-Cornell Golden Taklon brushes, usually 1/2 inch flat, but I have a large collection. These cars are primed with Zinsser B-I-N Shellac white primer. They are brush-painted with a variety of acrylic paints. The blue and pink are house paint. The others are cheap acrylic craft paints. They are top-coated with clear acrylic. The white parts are primer with a clear acrylic top coat. I have made many of these little trucks. These are painted with cheap navy blue craft acrylic and a brush. I have painted them with an airbrush, but looking at photos, I can't tell the difference.

If you have glue squeeze out on a 90 degree line the flat sander can get in close to clean up the edge. The flat sanders aren't very useful for sanding an entire project, but rather for fixing details. When I made the vanity tray I missed a spot on the tray, the oscillating tool allowed me to fix it without disassembly On the fancy wand with a crystal the small flat detail sander allowed me to sand both the inside and outside of the end and keep it flat and square. The big advantage the oscillating tool has is that it won't grab the piece and throw it across the shop.

Been a lot of things going on with the family/relationships, so haven't had much time to cut recently. Or desire, if I'm honest with myself. Funny how some things just suck the joy out of other things. But I do try to get out and run the saw every now and then.

I had to think about this for a while. One thing I am thankful for is our Chickens. They keep up supplied with plenty of fresh eggs. No more having to buy over priced eggs or running to the store because we were out of eggs. So I cut a ornament to hang on the Christmas tree in honor of them.

Kevin rarely do I have a problem sanding those areas with my bloc sander because I round over the edges. If I ever have to sand something like that I just wrap some sandpaper and do it by hand. When you scroll the wood should be sanded ready to go. That is the beauty of scrollsaw blades. You do not sand inside your fret cuts so why do you need to sand the outside edges because you used the same blades. I need to sand because I route and no router bit can match the smoothness of a scrollsaw blade. But a few minutes with my porta Cable bloc sander and I am good to go When I route my bases and put a decorative edge I just hand sand with sandpaper rolled up. I have never used my detailed sander on a scrollsawn piece in my life. As I said if I need a small area sanded I hand sand. Takes less time than break out a detailed sander. To me they are not worth the money for scrollsawing. Other jobs yes they are needed. just my opinion. People using those flap sander on fret work I would be afraid to breaking pieces. That would never happen with my work. Flap sander are great for intarsia work or even puzzles that many make.

I have a set of minnie mop sanders for my rotary tool. https://www.amazon.ca/Yakamoz-1-0-inch-Abrasive-Polishing-Polishers/dp/B07KBY63XR/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=37B0YNTK9GHAY&keywords=abrasive+wheel+buffing+polishing+wheel+set+for+rotary+tool&qid=1701093703&sprefix=buffing+polishing+for+rotary+tool%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

After watching some youtube on the multi tool as a sander.. I'm not interested in it as a sander.. pretty neat tool and might still get one but as a sander it's not a great tool from the reviews I read. They say it leaves lots of swirl marks.. That is the issue I had with the little mouse sander thing I have.. I now remember why I quit using it..

There is a person on Facebook that services Hegner saws and wrote yesterday about the changes with the saw. He is hard to find because of his unusual name. “A Saw Subject” https://m.facebook.com/story.php/?id=61553162265142&story_fbid=122112633236105408

16 "Idaho" ornaments finished for the show today.

My daughter moved houses a couple of months back. I saw an idea similar to this online. I shrunk it and added the tree and the wreath. Feliz Navidad!

I cut this skull and crossbones for my grandson. I cut it from baltic birch plywood. We are still debating how to finish it.

I'm happy to announce that our Ornaments For Charity - 2023 Edition eBook is now available! For the last 13 years, members of Scroll Saw Village have donated their talents to designing ornaments for this unique eBook of patterns. This year, we added 5 designers to design 20 additional patterns. The book has gotten so large, we had to split it into 2 books. Book 1 covers our first 10 years; 2010-2020. Our newest book, Book 2, covers 2021-2023. Between the two books, we have 171 pages with 525 Holiday ornament patterns! So be sure to download both books. You can download the eBooks for free to check them out. If you decide to keep these amazing pattern books, we ask you to donate to your favorite charity (we're on the honor system here). Remember, this isn't about "buying" an eBook of patterns, it's about helping those in need. So dig deep when donating to your favorite charity. Please spread the word about these wonderful eBooks of patterns. Post to your favorite social media, other clubs, and organizations. The more people who know about it, the more money we're able to raise for worthy causes. You can find those eBooks here. There will be a tab on the navigation menu through Christmas. After Christmas, it will be moved under the Patterns tab in the navigation bar. Special thanks to the following designers for donating patterns to this year's Ornaments For Charity eBook: @Travis @don in brooklin on @jr42 @jesse I hope everybody has a wonderful Holiday Season!

Hey Guys, bit to cold here in th uk to potter in the man cave, plus other stuff getting in the way, ( so much for having plenty of time when retired,) so not upto much on the bench. still getting my head around inkscape, with all the you tube lessons, (indoor in the warm job) any how finaly got it stuck together, im happy with it,

Since I don't waste my time watching any sports I decided to do my new favorite time killer, working in the shop (Scrolling something) Decided on this SG rabbit pattern. Reduced in size by 20% to fit a scrap of 3/8" canary wood I had laying around.

very nice

very nice job

Nice job. Sometimes the simplest of projects are the most satisfying as you can see results quickly, and hone your scrolling skills further.

I do not have a pic, and am at work so i cannot take one. The pipe fitting that is visible is where my vac system hooks up. It points downward and now has a thru hole in the bottom. The notch at the top is for the table hinge, and the hole is below the cutout in the table. Everything is hot glued together and to the bottom of my saw table (so it can come off if I ever want it to). Since mounting it, I've cut almost 37 christmas ornaments, and no dust pile under the table or on the floor. It doesn't suck hard enough to hold parts to the table though, but a stronger vac may do that. I will try to remember to get a pic tonight.

"The price I sell the trucks for is currently $16. Considering the amount of labor that goes into them, I should be asking for more." Totally agree! And, thanks a bunch for responding to my query.

The cars take a long time. Each coat of paint is allowed to cure for 12 to 24 hours and then be sanded and recoated. There are several coats of primer, too, but since it is shellac-based, it cures faster. The multiple primer coats are used to put enough primer on to hide the wood grain. I made these all simultaneously, so I can't tell you how long it takes. The blue trucks get up to three coats of paint on bare wood sanding between wood. The paint I use covers very well. The multiple coats with sanding in between are to get them smooth to the touch. It takes as many coats as it takes. I have never made one. So I don't know how long it takes to make one. It takes at least four days to complete a batch, usually more. As mentioned above, I wait 12 to 24 hours between coats because the pain needs to be bone dry to sand. The cars are poor sellers, but they do get lots of views. If you want to make lots of money, this isn't the way. My toys are of the highest quality I can produce. When you pick up one of my trucks, it will be smooth and feel good in your hand. The people that buy my toys are very pleased with them. Usually, when I tell someone what I sell these for, I get s response like "You can never sell them for that price." or something similar, yet I do. I'm not getting rich off of them, and I don't sell one every week or even every month, but they do sell. I don't know how many I have sold because some have been multiples in custom orders. The price I sell the trucks for is currently $16. Considering the amount of labor that goes into them, I should be asking for more. I'm going to increase my prices after Christmas.

This is what I use for touching up the outside of projects. It is very aggressive and takes some practice to get used to. I use it a lot. I can sand outside curves easily and get into tight corners if I remove the platten. This touches almost everything that comes off my scroll saw for that little bum you get when stating the cut, if nothing else. I also have the Shopsmith version of this. It has variable speeds, and the belt can be rerouted so it can sand inside. It also has a curved platten and a 1/2 inch platen to use 1/2 inch belts.

Those are good looking vehicles, Bob. The paint jobs are superb. Your process works great. I need to up my game. About how long does it take you per unit? Do you sell them? If so, what price are putting the blue trucks, for instance.

#ArtisanPirate

I wish someone would show me how you use one of these oscillating tools to sand you scroll saw projects.

When you run out of paint in the markers I learned that I can refill them.. I now just buy cheap acrylic paint from walmart and dilute it with water and the ends un-screw.. some are left handed threads.. like the Posca ones are left hand threads.. not sure on other brands.. also best to use distilled water

I believe this is aa H.Botas Pattern. I added the How He Loves.

Maybe overkill but I have always sanded the surface and the outer profile down to 320 and sometimes 400 grit paper.. I have yet had a scroll saw blade that leaves that smooth of an surface.. It's not super rough either but not smooth like I make the surface.. FD blades do leave a smoother surface than the Pegas do but not by enough to the point that I wouldn't need to sand the surface down some.. at least that is how I have always done it.. maybe I'm overkill on the sanding.. had many people mention how smooth it feels to the touch.. so I've just always done that.

Have you tried any of these? I have read mixed review about them but might be worth a try. https://www.artcraftersonline.com/everything-else

If you are using acrylic and a brush, just paint it all first with flat white. That will give it a uniform background so you dont need to worry about the grain and all that showing through. What i had the best results with was the cheapo airbrush from harbor freight. You need a compressor though so its not worth it if you dont have one. The airbrush thing was like under $20 or so. It laid down a very nice coat of acrylic. Just used craft stuff from walmart and thinned it with some water.

I have been doing a lot of hand painting using Posca paint markers.. I get a lot better control of the details with the markers than Paint brushes... I've been doing them on bare wood.. and then lacquer over the top after the backer is glued. My reason for this is because I've read that glue doesn't bond too great on a painted surface so I do not primer first or anything.. IF I don't have a backer to be going on the back but have painting on the front I do use a coat of clear lacquer so the paint marker glides across the wood a little better.

One of my other hobbies. Timbers - Jarrah,Ash,Kwila.Only difference had to put drivers side on the right

Just thinking of Christmas's past on here and some outstanding projects that were done for Christmas. This one stands out in my mind.. 2019, I believe. But I don't remember who did it and provided the patterns to anyone interested. I have the patterns, but I never did it. Large item and no where to store it. But something that could be donated to some organization. Anyone else remember it, it created a lot of interest when it was built? Sorry I can not remember the name of the originator. I I know it had lights. Pretty amazing piece. Make a great yard display. Over 3 feet tall.

Nice job finding that post. I haven't heard from Birchbark for quite a while,, he made several great patterns for me. Barry

This may help. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/36503-xmas-reindeer/#comment-403783 This is what started it. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/31960-looking-for-christmas-reindeer-pattern/#comment-356849

You seem to always be in the right place at the right time. I've never been given anything of any value. Most everything that I get for free is junk or way beyond repair. That 14 in saw would have been neat though. They have become valuable just because of their size. There is a guy down in the San Diego area that has had one for sale in mint condition for over 3 years. He's asking $925 and won't budge.

Yeah, that happen to me, LOL... I bought the new BM-26 and a month later one popped up for $700 that was never really used in the next town over.. I needed to use it as a tax deduction anyway but. On the other hand I was offered a Hegner Mutimax 14 with stand, foot switch and magnifier light for $40 at a estate sale and I walked.. It was old and didn't have any of the comfort things on it.. I kinda kicked myself for it but then 4 years later ( this spring ) I had that newer model Multimax 18 with foot switch etc. given to me. I almost walked on it as there was no blade holders with it so I couldn't even try it.. but that was a good thing because I would have happily gave him the $200 he was asking but since it was missing stuff he said take it or it was going in the big dumpster.. I said I'll take it.. he even carried it up the hill and loaded it in my car, LOL He was just cleaning out the house as quick as possible for a house sale as his parents just went into a care home. I could of had the whole shop.. but most other tools was cheap stuff.

Just like buying a new car versa a used car... I am fine with either, but the boss, my wife say there is a reason someone got rid of a used car. True, but not always a bad reason. I will look at either.

The first picture is the Cutoffs from other projects and the second picture is what I made from them. Lots of glueing boards together and resawing on bandsaw. Took about a month to make it out of red oak and I didn’t use them all.

Those are from Jean-Bernard Germe's book: Wooden People & Pets I got on Amazon. It's an okay book but most of the images had to be enlarged to a better size.

Local military base restaurant owner asked for these. I found some but they were not all exactly what I was looking for so I adjusted as needed. He was quite pleased. Dewalt saw. About 18 1/2 inches tall each.

I made the wine holder for my wife's birthday. It turned into 2 more for birthday presents and now she wants 4 more to give as Christmas gifts. I also started Christmas ornaments for the season

This is an Alex Fox pattern my daughter bought me for Father’s Day. After finishing it, guess who wanted it for her apartment, hahaha!

My latest project was mini model A cars. They are so cute and fun to make that I made a second batch of 18. These are for my upcoming shows. I’m currently working on a fleet of Kenworths which will soon be completed.

My last projects have been Christmas ornaments

I am having a problem with starting projects but not getting them finished. Has something to do with my age. But I did finish this one after I had started three other things.

I am trying to use a stack of random length and thickness wood pieces. I pick up a piece of wood and think: What can I cut from this?

Various projects for the market; drying in the shop. I have several lengths of rebar, so I utilizing it for drying projects.

Did two spoons out of the same slab of Cherry. Have not been in the shop much due to the heat, and also extra hours at work.