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My wife spotted a Nativity she liked at Hobby Lobby and requested I build one. I found a large oak pallet with some nice color variation to build it with. It's about 2' X2' and will go on our entertainment center. They cost $20 at Hobby Lobby so I don't plan to go into competition with them.

It's a simple project compared to all of the super fantastic items I've seen in this website, but the fact that I didn't ruin it is just enough to brag about, a little. 1/4" BB painted black.

A test technician has made great progress. So I made him a appreciation award with his name "Sang". His progress was to make the waveform shown 1000 times faster than it was done for the past 5 years. This waveform is used over 600 times during his full test suite. So it made a big impact on time. I put some IC die (chips) in polyester resin pour. The chips came from the same project that he excelled at. Wood is Myrtle. Me. Mark Eason

This one has taken me a while. Just a few more details and it is done. In this photo, I still have not secured the uprights to the base, so keep that in mind when looking closely. Still deciding on how I want to finish it too. A few broken parts due to some delicate design areas. For one of the buildings, I did not add details cuts as it would have been another weak area. Now that I am getting a handle on these types of projects, I am going to mark up the pattern with my changes to strengthen some of the areas and prevent breakage. I am also thinking I am going to go to a thicker wood vs the 1/4", as I would also like to start adding some of my carving details.

In the Pegas manual, the number one listed is "When the saw is not in use, always release tension on the blade".

The relative strength of cast metals compared to solid metals depends on the specific materials, their compositions, and the intended applications. It's crucial to consider factors beyond casting alone, such as the alloy, and heat treatment. Now you mentioned solid billets for racecars, etc... Solid metals, especially those that have undergone processes like forging or rolling, can have a more uniform and refined microstructure, potentially resulting in improved mechanical properties. This is most likely why you see cars and such use them.

Yeah that probably makes sense.. Just that they say to not do something that they just did to a brand new saw is weird.. Do as I say not what I do, LOL.. Also you have to wonder about old saws that have been sitting in the new packaging for several years.. These saws come up on marketplace from time to time.. Heck my Hawk Ultra was new in the box still when I bought it in 2017.. the saw was purchased new according to the receipt in the box from the original buyer in December of 1998.. so what, 19 years that saw sat in the box with the blade tensioned.. But I guess who cares as the warranty on most these saws is only a year.. if it can set for 19 years it's not on them no more, LOL

Maybe they ship them that way to help keep the upper arm stationary, during transporting? Did I use the right stationary/stationery? The wonders of the english language... and they think everyone should learn it. And/or/maybe they ship it in that position so it is not sticking up where it could get bent and/orbroken off easily.

There is a Tractor Supply store near me. The big zero turn mowers come in on really big hardwood pallets. It's usually mystery wood but sometimes it's oak. I don't imagine it's kiln dried but for something like this I'll take a chance on it warping. My favorite thing about it is the cost.

Great job Charlie. My neighbor has a winery and get things shipped to him on pallets. He had quite a stack and asked if I could use any for my woodworking.. I looked them over, all junk wood I had to turn him down. I have never see a pallet with any kind of decent wood in it. you found oak I read about other that find them with exotic woods. I get no respect...

Will not only did you not ruin it but you did a great job of it. I picture a little light behind it and it would look to be an aquarium , - the dirty water need to be changed and the need to feed. Great job!

I have a set of minnie mop sanders for my rotary tool. https://www.amazon.ca/Yakamoz-1-0-inch-Abrasive-Polishing-Polishers/dp/B07KBY63XR/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=37B0YNTK9GHAY&keywords=abrasive+wheel+buffing+polishing+wheel+set+for+rotary+tool&qid=1701093703&sprefix=buffing+polishing+for+rotary+tool%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

#ArtisanPirate

Good afternoon everyone. My name is Alex. We are a family of refugees from Ukraine. In Ukraine, my hobby was carpentry. I also kept bees. I really wanted to make something for the house in the shape of a hexagon like a honeycomb. I decided to make a watch. My family really liked this clock; it set the style in our kitchen. When we were getting ready to leave Ukraine, my wife wanted to take them with us as souvenirs. I told her that she didn’t need to do this. I'll try to make the same ones in the new place. We didn't know then where we would end up. With God's help we ended up in Quebec. I recently made a clock and it reminds us of our home in Ukraine, as if we were at home.

You've seen this multi-species puzzle before (12 different kinds of wood, Linseed oil finish). I just cut a frame/storage tray for it. I "pickled" the wood so the colors of the puzzle pop a bit. The frame is Aspen, and the back BB. I decided rather than a square inside cut, I made some indexing cuts so starting the puzzle has some hints. This will go to a young man who lived with us for a few years due to a bad home life. He now lives in Florida with his wife. He is now going to be a father!!! His wife is due in Feb. She's lost a number of babies due to miscarriage, one being stillborn, so now she is in the viability-positive stage... things are going well. This is all ready for the baby shower, I'll have this and a few rolling toys. I lasered my logo on the back with my little box laser, against the pickled BB backer it stands out nice.

The subject of releasing the tension on your saws when they are not being used has been talked about here a couple of times. I'm of the school that thinks releasing tension is a good idea. Anyway, after perusing the new Facebook site "A Saw Subject" and reading a lot of great info on Hegner saws, I ran across this so I'm posting the picture and the accompanying comment. This may concern only Hegner saws but I think it could relate to most saws. Any of you folks who are using Hegner saws, you might pay heed to this. Also, there is a ton of great info on that site on all the different Hegner saws over the years and what to look for if you are buying a used one.

Since I don't waste my time watching any sports I decided to do my new favorite time killer, working in the shop (Scrolling something) Decided on this SG rabbit pattern. Reduced in size by 20% to fit a scrap of 3/8" canary wood I had laying around.

Welcome to the Village from North Carolina. Lots of knowledgeable scrollers here. Don't hesitate to ask questions. You're now a part of the Village family.

After some serious sewing projects for our boat, I finally got some time on the saw! 3/4 plywood of unknown woods. A gift from a friend. Used a #5mg blade. No finish on it yet. Actually, not sure what to use! Thoughts? I don't want to mess up the flexibility. 20230629_151731.mp4

I am just shaking my head that H.L. sells Nativities for $20.

I did shipping and receiving for a truck dealership and every once in a while, I would come across some nice wood in a pallet. (Battery reciprocating saw always nearby) Even found some spalting a couple of times.

Mine has a quick-release lever. Love it.

This was my first thought too.. My Hawk sat for nearly 20 years in its original packaging with a tensioned blade.. never did any damage and have 300 or so hours run time on it and still going like a champ.. That being said.. all the main parts of a Hawk is solid steel or aluminum.. only thing casted that I've seen is the table top.. and I'm actually not certain but it maybe solid too I can't remember.. I mentioned once that I didn't care for the casted arms etc of the Hegner.. dang near the whole saw is casted.. Someone told me that casting is stronger than solid metal or aluminum.. I wasn't going to argue over that because I honestly don't know facts about casting.. But I often wonder why race car motor builders etc.. always use solid billet engine blocks and rods heads etc.. sort of tells me solid metals are stronger than casted ones.. Not saying Hegner or any other saw is inferior.. but I've seen quite a few Hegner upper arms where the casting broke at the back of the saw by the wedge or spring area.. Never seen a hawk have anything other than a bad bearing or a worn tension cam, or wedge. It'd take a lot of proof to convince me that cast is stronger than billet.. Not saying it's not true.. I'm sure it's possible with the right casting materials.. but are those material used, LOL

good use of repurposed material

very nice job

Actually, they do this as a means to protect the arm, chuck, etc during the actual shipping process. Being under tension reduces/eliminates movement during transit, thus reducing the potential of damage. However, they could just as easily use more packing material to secure the arm and chuck. I think tensioning is easier and more secure. Now, springs do not wear from being just under tension**, they wear from constant use... as the spring undergoes repeated cycles of loading and unloading... boing, boing... or overextension or compression... the example of an automobile was used above, it is the hitting of bumps, weight added and reduced, etc. that cause wear. Now shock absorbers reduce this wear, otherwise, your car would bounce a lot more and springs would wear/break more. (**)I will add that keeping a spring under constant tension will induce creep which is the slow, continuous deformation of a material under a constant load. When a spring is kept under constant tension, especially if the load is near the spring's maximum capacity, the material may experience creep, causing the spring to gradually change shape over time. To have an arm warp due to being under constant tension tells me they have cheaped out, or there is a design flaw, as the amount of pressure from a tensioned blade is not that extreme.

It's easy and does not cost anything, so why not? I back the blade tension off my band saws. It is much harder to do.

I think every saw I've owned states to not leave the blade tensioned.. what got me is the fact that the Hawk manual says this as does my Excalibur.. I think the DeWalt manual also stated that.. however they ship them to me in a sealed box from the factory with a blade mounted and under tension.. Maybe the manufacture should read the manual too.. LOL I've always released the tension when leaving the saw, there has been a couple exceptions where I got interrupted and come back later to find I left the blade tensioned.. That's only been a handful of times in the last 20 years though..

I experimented with 1/4 & 1/2" thick ornaments, messing with various paints. Me NO likey. Well, maybe the clock I like a little. But nothing I would ever do again this way.

Nice job Charlie!

Hummm, I think I leave mine without tension most the time because when I stop the saw the first thing I do is release the tension because I am either going to change blades or move to a new hole to start sawing again. But this will make me double check because I know with no tension nothing will be hurt whether this is true or not. So why not release the tension just in case. Could that be out of alignment because the bushings are worn?? Could be another cause.

Looks good, RJ

Charlie you have done an excellent job on that, probaby built 100 times better, RJ

Mine is a 2002 and has the regular spring, front tension release and quick clamp.. I also would be curious as to when some of the features were introduced.. He has a decent write up but I did notice there was a lot left out.. Kind of why I have never done one for the Hawk.. There is a lot of changes that I probably don't even know about.. Over the years of reading the forums / looking at used saws and calling Hawk about saws I find and was interested in buying.. I've learned quite a lot.. Just never followed the Hegners as closely because used ones around my area are more than any used Hawk.. and in some cases just as much as a new Hawk, so.. I've just never really looked a lot at the Hegners like I did with Hawks

But he left out a magor one. Putting the tension release in the upper arm was a huge improvement, I has always curious as to when they changed the spring in the back from the flat square one to a round normal one and why.

This is what I use for touching up the outside of projects. It is very aggressive and takes some practice to get used to. I use it a lot. I can sand outside curves easily and get into tight corners if I remove the platten. This touches almost everything that comes off my scroll saw for that little bum you get when stating the cut, if nothing else. I also have the Shopsmith version of this. It has variable speeds, and the belt can be rerouted so it can sand inside. It also has a curved platten and a 1/2 inch platen to use 1/2 inch belts.

I make a lot of toys and paint many of them. As a general rule, I don't use primers. However, I use white primer or white paint as the base when painting lighter or brighter colors. The white base will make the colors brighter and let you cover them with less paint. Yellow and Orange are primary examples. You can get great results painting with a brush, but it is a skill like scrolling. It takes practice. Use good brushes and multiple coats sanding between coats until you get it smooth and the coverage you want. I use Loew-Cornell Golden Taklon brushes, usually 1/2 inch flat, but I have a large collection. These cars are primed with Zinsser B-I-N Shellac white primer. They are brush-painted with a variety of acrylic paints. The blue and pink are house paint. The others are cheap acrylic craft paints. They are top-coated with clear acrylic. The white parts are primer with a clear acrylic top coat. I have made many of these little trucks. These are painted with cheap navy blue craft acrylic and a brush. I have painted them with an airbrush, but looking at photos, I can't tell the difference.

That's a nice write up.. I should do similar write-up for the hawk saws.. they made small and some larger changes to improve the scrolling experience.. Much like Heger.. the people see a big orange saw and the Hawk nameplate that makes them think it's a great saw.. which most were but there are some better than others.. unless you have a trained eye to know what to look for in a hawk one would think they're all the same..

There is a person on Facebook that services Hegner saws and wrote yesterday about the changes with the saw. He is hard to find because of his unusual name. “A Saw Subject” https://m.facebook.com/story.php/?id=61553162265142&story_fbid=122112633236105408

Here is my latest projects. I Loved the bird on a wire so I made one. Its part of several things I donated to my Church to raise some money for a project the Pastor is working on. The Vase with the hert is for my MotherInLaw's Christmas. The Jesus Is a part of the Church Project and has already sold. The Sunflower vase is a project from me and my wife. I made tha vase and she burned the sunflower. The Handymans box is for my son for Christmas. The box (Its a God Box), write down your problems, stick them in the box and let God deal with it. Another one of the Church projects. It is inlayed with Yahweh in Hebrew.

16 "Idaho" ornaments finished for the show today.

That bee looks real. Nice job.

Before I submit my ornaments I always cut and make any modifications needed. Here are my entries for this year book. Check out the latest version as there are lots of neat ornaments. Thanks to Travis for all his hard work. This is Merry Christmas from Steve Goods "Fred" I stacked cut Joy to the World and when I did it I got an ornament with a backer and a free standing,

Found a great use for my hold down.. I welded a old cam / timing gear on it and then welded some 1/4" bolts to it and it makes a great handle for holding the cam timing gears while trying to re-install a timing chain on a 3.7L or 4.7L Dodge or Jeep.. Made a nice handle and you can stick a screwdriver through the slot where the blade normally is to hold everything while you go down underneath to make sure everything is timed correct before tightening all the bolts.. I'm sure you all could find something to do with yours if you have a need for a tool or something to make with it. LOL

I was able to squeeze this project in between commissions. Unfortunately, the creator of the pattern didn't provide their name or handle. If anyone knows, please give them credit. The piece is 8X10 Baltic Birch stained Natural with a 1/4-inch Birch backer stained Ebony. I used Polyacrylic to seal the piece with sanding between the four coats. Prefabricated framing material cut to size finished the project. This was a fun piece to cut and I was able to use a few #2/0 and #1 Pegas MGT blades rather than the spirals I typically use on my heavily fretted projects. Again, thanks to the author of the pattern.

I believe I may have posted that pattern in '21 with a bunch of others I did at the same time. I purchased it on line. This was my version. Santa 3.pdf

Patiently waiting for the part to arrive. I'm expecting it any day now.

Well let's be honest cars probably get more weight as we get older. But don't do facebook, yep I am one of those.

I have only used mine as a saw. The sander always looked like a bad idea to me.