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You've seen this multi-species puzzle before (12 different kinds of wood, Linseed oil finish). I just cut a frame/storage tray for it. I "pickled" the wood so the colors of the puzzle pop a bit. The frame is Aspen, and the back BB. I decided rather than a square inside cut, I made some indexing cuts so starting the puzzle has some hints. This will go to a young man who lived with us for a few years due to a bad home life. He now lives in Florida with his wife. He is now going to be a father!!! His wife is due in Feb. She's lost a number of babies due to miscarriage, one being stillborn, so now she is in the viability-positive stage... things are going well. This is all ready for the baby shower, I'll have this and a few rolling toys. I lasered my logo on the back with my little box laser, against the pickled BB backer it stands out nice.

Finished this Plaque for an order

Played around with angles, heights, door designs, window shapes & color this morning, it's my 1st village with scrap wood in the shop. It's not perfect & that's what it's supposed to be like. Actually cut the small window shapes with my DW. Comments always welcomed. God Bless Thank You

A Steve Good pattern (thanks Steve) I enlarged. Sun = 10 inches by 3/4" thick Canadian Cedar Backer=11 1/2 inches 3/4" thick Poplar Shellac for sun & acrylic paint for backer Used 4 3/8" wooden dowels to mount the sun to the backer - drilled holes 1/4" deep into the sun, installed the dowels while praying. Borrowed some of my wife's lipstick and coated the ends of the dowels, then positioned the sun over the backer and pressed the sun down onto the backer, transferring the dowel locations to the backer. Drilled 1/4" holes into the lipstick markings (more praying). IT WORKED! The dowels lined up with the holes and I was able to press/tap (pray) the ends into the sun backer. Whew! Ended with a prayer of thanks. Now to see if someone likes it as much as I do at the next event.

It's a simple project compared to all of the super fantastic items I've seen in this website, but the fact that I didn't ruin it is just enough to brag about, a little. 1/4" BB painted black.

I have to ask ,,, what makes this guy we are all listening to an expert? Just curious. I am a Facebook skeptic.. Lots of "Experts" on Facebook... so many in fact I left... I could not keep up. But I have been wrong once, well maybe twice.. but the jury is still out on the second time

Two for the show on Sunday. Steve Good pattern. Cut from 1/4" & 1/8" ply with a #5 Precision Skip blade. Acrylic craft paints on Santa coated with Varathane (sp?). Numbers stained with a Minwax stain.

I have completed my 3d shark puzzle project.

A great looking village.

Beautiful play houses for kids. Great way of using up scraps. Well done Dan.

I've always used 1/16th aircraft ply and people love them. I've cut as many as 10 at once, but really don't like the thicker blades needed for that. Mostly stack cut 4 or 5 at a time now, and really enjoy the Pegas #1 modified geometry blades. My only problem with those blades is that, even though I have the Pegas blade chucks, I can't seem to keep the bottom blade in the holder unless I lightly scuff it with sandpaper before starting. Same with the 2/0 size. NO FUZZIES on the back with those blades.

You have done a great job, RJ

terrific job

Looks very well done kiddies will love playing with them .

I like that a lot. I agree it does look like a fun project.

Dan, very nice and looks like fun!

I do have his "coins", but prefer to have something burned directly into my piece, rather than using a Forstner bit to drill/insert the coin. As you can see from the images, my small laser is a breeze to set up. I just plug it in and turn it on. Get a Bluetooth connection to my phone, pick my logo in the app, and size it if need be (I made it smaller for this burn). I then run the positioning beam that shows me where I will be burning and adjust accordingly, then activate the burn. I can go on doing other things as my logo gets burned. Unless I want to get fancy with large scripture verses and a larger logo, there is no need to fire up my big laser. BluetoothPS: I prefer using my phone and bluetooth, rather than connecting the USB to a computer.

I see you are a skeptic at heart. that is fine. What is nice about things is we do what we feel is fit for us. Whoever this guy is and I have not read or do I ever follow anyone on FB and never will, but he was suggesting to keep those saws running true it would be wise to apply some maintenance to them every so often Oiling it as much as Ray said is ridiculous but it is his thing so nothing wrong with that. I am sure Kevin can break down all the fault parts on all saws because from what I have read here for a few years he takes them apart and puts back together. I have had my 2 RBI saw and have never oiled or done any maintenance on them other than clean the dust off. yes I had to replace the front tension lever but that is something no matter how much oil you dump on it it will wear out. There are natural wear points on all tools ever made. A little tender love does not hurt so do it or don't do it. As far as releasing tension I am in the release camp because I have no idea when I will be using again and with the front tension lever it is too easy. My bandsaw is something else. It is always been told to release tension for a couple reasons and they are forming a indent on the rubber tracks if left tensioned and also strain on the bearings resting in one place. I have wanted to install a quick lever set up on that but just never did. If I ever buy a new bandsaw I will either have that installed or get one that comes with it.

Pics of the table suction addition. I did not drill the table like a Jet or Excalibur.

That is because the blade clamps have a tendency to go flying some times when a blade brakes!

I do not understand some of the concepts being discussed. I have no idea what "solid metal" means. Yes, there is a difference between cast structures and wrought structures. (Note: I am a metallurgical engineer who worked in the production, casting and rolling of steel for 40+ years.) I looked at my Hegner today and the weakest point in the entire machine is the blade itself. The cross section is very small compared to anything else on the machine. That being said, I have never had a blade break just because I left the blade tensioned. I do not release tension on my Hegner when I am finished cutting. I do not remember reading about a broken part on the scrollsaw which could be attributed to not releasing the tension. I think one reason to release the tension is to reduce wear on the blade clamps. The blade clamps seem to encounter more wear and problems than any other part of the machine.

Very nice. Any completed project is always a great job. So with that, Great Job!

After some serious sewing projects for our boat, I finally got some time on the saw! 3/4 plywood of unknown woods. A gift from a friend. Used a #5mg blade. No finish on it yet. Actually, not sure what to use! Thoughts? I don't want to mess up the flexibility. 20230629_151731.mp4

Hi Barb and thanks for the details and link to Floppy Guy. I did two - the first one was with solid wood and that did not last long. Switched to 3/4" construction grade plywood and that worked like a charm. Now to see if Floppy Guy can find a new home.

Patiently waiting for the part to arrive. I'm expecting it any day now.

A test technician has made great progress. So I made him a appreciation award with his name "Sang". His progress was to make the waveform shown 1000 times faster than it was done for the past 5 years. This waveform is used over 600 times during his full test suite. So it made a big impact on time. I put some IC die (chips) in polyester resin pour. The chips came from the same project that he excelled at. Wood is Myrtle. Me. Mark Eason

I make a lot of toys and paint many of them. As a general rule, I don't use primers. However, I use white primer or white paint as the base when painting lighter or brighter colors. The white base will make the colors brighter and let you cover them with less paint. Yellow and Orange are primary examples. You can get great results painting with a brush, but it is a skill like scrolling. It takes practice. Use good brushes and multiple coats sanding between coats until you get it smooth and the coverage you want. I use Loew-Cornell Golden Taklon brushes, usually 1/2 inch flat, but I have a large collection. These cars are primed with Zinsser B-I-N Shellac white primer. They are brush-painted with a variety of acrylic paints. The blue and pink are house paint. The others are cheap acrylic craft paints. They are top-coated with clear acrylic. The white parts are primer with a clear acrylic top coat. I have made many of these little trucks. These are painted with cheap navy blue craft acrylic and a brush. I have painted them with an airbrush, but looking at photos, I can't tell the difference.

Good afternoon everyone. My name is Alex. We are a family of refugees from Ukraine. In Ukraine, my hobby was carpentry. I also kept bees. I really wanted to make something for the house in the shape of a hexagon like a honeycomb. I decided to make a watch. My family really liked this clock; it set the style in our kitchen. When we were getting ready to leave Ukraine, my wife wanted to take them with us as souvenirs. I told her that she didn’t need to do this. I'll try to make the same ones in the new place. We didn't know then where we would end up. With God's help we ended up in Quebec. I recently made a clock and it reminds us of our home in Ukraine, as if we were at home.

Still waiting...albeit a little less patiently. I placed the order, on-line, with Seyco on Thanksgiving morning, so I didn't expect it to get here Monday. I called them today, just to make certain that it shipped. The CS rep told me the order should have gone in the mail Monday AM, as they were not in on Friday after Thanksgiving. I was hoping it would make it today, but I guess I'll have to keep patiently waiting.