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Two for the show on Sunday. Steve Good pattern. Cut from 1/4" & 1/8" ply with a #5 Precision Skip blade. Acrylic craft paints on Santa coated with Varathane (sp?). Numbers stained with a Minwax stain.

A Steve Good pattern (thanks Steve) I enlarged. Sun = 10 inches by 3/4" thick Canadian Cedar Backer=11 1/2 inches 3/4" thick Poplar Shellac for sun & acrylic paint for backer Used 4 3/8" wooden dowels to mount the sun to the backer - drilled holes 1/4" deep into the sun, installed the dowels while praying. Borrowed some of my wife's lipstick and coated the ends of the dowels, then positioned the sun over the backer and pressed the sun down onto the backer, transferring the dowel locations to the backer. Drilled 1/4" holes into the lipstick markings (more praying). IT WORKED! The dowels lined up with the holes and I was able to press/tap (pray) the ends into the sun backer. Whew! Ended with a prayer of thanks. Now to see if someone likes it as much as I do at the next event.

Played around with angles, heights, door designs, window shapes & color this morning, it's my 1st village with scrap wood in the shop. It's not perfect & that's what it's supposed to be like. Actually cut the small window shapes with my DW. Comments always welcomed. God Bless Thank You

A custom request, Tractor Farmall Puzzle. The pattern is by Harvey Blyer. It is made from 3/4" Poplar and measures approximately 6 1/2" x 10". Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #3 MGT blades. After sanding with a Mac Mop, dipped in diluted Shellac and then lightly sanded again. Comments welcome.

I have completed my 3d shark puzzle project.

I did this as a quick, non-Christmas cut while waiting for the Countdown Santas to dry. Top layer is maple and the bottom layer is the project ply/mdf. Cut with a #5 blade (because it was a fairly new blade). Colour is a tinted shellac. Topcoated with Osmo Satin finish. Hubby thought is was moons & sci-fi something. People on facebook have some interesting thoughts. I immediately thought, and still think, it is a tipped over wine glass spilling the wine. I have some other ideas for other displays!

Darn i did not see what you saw until you said what you saw and then immediately I see what you saw and am wondering why I didn't see what you saw before you said what you saw. Now I see. That is a whole lot of see sawing.

The service station......another piece for my village this morning, this one was fun, just went with my thoughts along the way, I made patterns for the pump parts to cut out.

I probably should clarify that the new Hawk manual states to use a dry spray lube on the wedge.. a drop of oil for the hole above the tension cam lever at the front of the saw.. no need to oil the bearings in the arm pivot points.. They are not sealed bearing but they are "shielded" bearings and the way they set in the arm I'm doubtful oil would work its way down into them anyway. I tried to look on their site for the new BM series manual but I guess they haven't uploaded that one.. The older saws manual mentions to use oil on the wedge and the arm pivot points and front tension cam oil hole. Some of those early saws had a ball bearing in a plastic type cage and I would definitely recommend oil for those.. however, You should read your manual and make your own decisions as to how you want to best maintain the saw.. I do not use oil on the wedge of any of my saws, I have in the past on my older saws as that was what was recommended.. New technology on lubricant's and experiences of worn parts have made Bushton change the new saws to the dry lube.. Probably for the very reason JT mentions it as a dust and dirt magnet.. for that very reason I have switch to dry lube on all my saws.. including the front tension cam which they state to use a drop of oil.. My new saw has just shy of 500 run time hours on it.. My old 226 Ultra has 300 run time hours and the old Hawk with the round clamps I sold but it also had around 300 hours at time of sale.. The Hegner has 3 hours on it, LOL.. That old saw had a slightly worn wedge.. no idea on if it was oiled or not or how many hours the saw had on it when I got it.. the tension cam was worn so bad they had used a spring to wrap around the tension lever to keep it tensioned.. so I upgraded that to the newer system that Hawk offers.. so the saw was used quite a lot I believe and I don't think it was maintained to well but I don't really know.. Anyway I just put the wedge on a flat surface and sanded it to a nice sharp point again.. no need to replace it... None of my saws really have any signs of wear.. Other than the Excalibur in which that saw has 505 hours on it right now.. it has had a complete rebuild at the 200 hour mark.. its showing signs of looseness again but not knocking or anything like that yet... again so The funny thing with the hour meter on the saw and hooked to the foot switch is.. You can spend 50 hours a week in the shop but be lucky to put 15 - 20 hours on the saw.. I would say if a person oiled the saw once a month it's probably good enough.. but that is just a uneducated guess based on how much I use the saw and how much I speculate a weekend hobbyist would run their saw.. Just to give some unscientific data to those that think they need to oil it every day / week etc.. This topic has changed the subject several times now, This is the dry lube I've been using.. I forgot to add the link to what I use.. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/blaster-premium-silicone-garage-door-lubricant-1300631?store=743&cid=Shopping-Google-Local_Feed&utm_medium=Google&utm_source=Shopping&utm_campaign=&utm_content=Local_Feed&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAgqGrBhDtARIsAM5s0_lalN2Dl1EtdTpuOj0iIbAaK7VTYzKMps-WhGM9bejtBMmKRmbOuh8aAuVnEALw_wcB

My wife spotted a Nativity she liked at Hobby Lobby and requested I build one. I found a large oak pallet with some nice color variation to build it with. It's about 2' X2' and will go on our entertainment center. They cost $20 at Hobby Lobby so I don't plan to go into competition with them.

I’m with Paul.

You've seen this multi-species puzzle before (12 different kinds of wood, Linseed oil finish). I just cut a frame/storage tray for it. I "pickled" the wood so the colors of the puzzle pop a bit. The frame is Aspen, and the back BB. I decided rather than a square inside cut, I made some indexing cuts so starting the puzzle has some hints. This will go to a young man who lived with us for a few years due to a bad home life. He now lives in Florida with his wife. He is now going to be a father!!! His wife is due in Feb. She's lost a number of babies due to miscarriage, one being stillborn, so now she is in the viability-positive stage... things are going well. This is all ready for the baby shower, I'll have this and a few rolling toys. I lasered my logo on the back with my little box laser, against the pickled BB backer it stands out nice.

OK update. I oiled the pivot points today on RBIs and again checked that wedge still pristine. Used a little dry lube on the tension lever. Now I will not be oiling this every 20 hours as they recommend in the instruction book. That is ridiculous. ( MY THOUGHTS) One thing and again this is my thoughts but it is true with lathes as well as other woodworking tools, when you apply oil to moving parts such as those pivot points you now have created a spot where dust and debris can and will collect more readily So when I oiled I wiped around that section to keep oil off the arms. This could start a friction problem and cause more harm than good. I will be aware of this. I know Kevin put a timer on his saws and that can help tell how much use it has. I wish I knew how much running time is on these but I can say without blinking it is a long time and that is no bull. These saws have been used hard. To this day I highly recommend them to anyone buying a saw. yes you can find good deals as used saws but you just never know how well they were used. I believe Hegner is overpriced for what they sell. Do not get me wrong, they too are a great saw. I have no idea about the other type saws such as Pegasus. I do not like that double link system. I had the Dewalt and that saw basically sat in the corner. I rarely used it. Blades can be installed at any height and tension is not always the same . I am and always will be a bottom feeder so no interest in top feeding features. Again that is me. I learned that way and am fine with it. The blade changing system on the RBI and again I do not know much about the newer models but the ones I have are great. You can not make a mistake of how far or how high to insert blades. they go in the same each and every time. That is why I rarely break blades. My saw is tensioned to same blade all the time. No need to keep changing size of blades. just the way I did things all these years. I do not start and stop many times when cutting. I start saw in each fret hole and stop when done. If I have to shave a piece I keep saw moving. I have learned to turn while saw is running. Maybe that is a reason that the saw has not been abused. Starting and stopping a motor is torque applied to many things. After each session of cutting I always vac the entire saw down to collect dust. I do not use a dust collector on my saws. I do wear a mask but I wear a mask most times I am in the shop anyway. I grew up in the construction field so those masks are like a part of your uniform. And I use safety glasses. i have an air cleaner system that is basically right next to those saws because my shop is small. I keep that clean and vaced too. To sum up why has my saw been so free of problems I do not know. Maybe luck, maybe I got the 2 best saw ever made by RBI. I do not know. But they have served me well and as I said they owe me nothing. Again this is my way of doing things. Follow your heart and follow instructions and keep those saws motoring. Have fun and enjoy the ride. Good luck and happy scrolling. I know this topic went off course somewhere down the road but to bring it full circle I do not leave tension on my blades when done sawing.

By the way I sold my Hegner 2 years ago for $450. I was asking $500 but guy got me for $50. That saw was still a great saw and he would get many years out of it. Even the bellows were still flexible and in good shape. I told him that was a weak point and how to replace. Sold the Dewalt 788 for $250 same year. So left with the 2 RBIs. I looked up my saws and found dates. Bought my Hegner in 1993, Bought the Hawk 220vs in Jan. 1998 and 226 in 1999. before all these saws I scrolled on a Dremel 16" 2 speed saw. That was fun. Now I may jinx the saws but think I will put a few drops of oil on the pivot points mentioned. Wish me luck.

Kevin all I can say and have said this many times here I do not see that wedge move one iota when scrolling. I do not know why , only that I never change the back tension since I got it. I use to at one time long ago change when I used jewlers blades but even stopped that I rarely change speeds on both those saws. I know the wedge is free because it does rattle when I take tension off. but believe me it is as sharp as the day I bought it. I did have to put a felt piece on the arm because that lever would work its way over to the arm and clatter. That was annoying but a quick fix and has been that way for a long time. There is no friction at the pivot points in both upper and lower arms on both saws. As I said I did have to change the front tension lever and recently found the thread that got me in alot of trouble here and led to one reason I left here. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/36965-rbi/#comment-408618. I have been scrolling for over 30 years now and my path has been documented here a few times of what I did along that path. I have scrolled on these 2 RBI saws for the best part of all that time. I mentioned I had a hegner before I got the RBI which was the first year they came out with those block shaped blade holders. You would know years more than I. I do not remember. the woodworking show I bought the saw at the person do the demo kept talking about the upgrade. Whatever motor they finally went with in those has served me well. These saws run quiet and true as the day I bought them. I am still using them even in my pen turning adventures so. But I have told everyone how many stores I sold in and how many shows I did and shown the work I do. I only wish and someday maybe I will find a way to transform all the still photos of all the work I use to make when I first started and the large projects I worked on to digital so that they can be used in forums. These saws saw many times 6 to 7 or 8 hours of sawing a day when I was full blown especially weekends. Keeping stock was a job. Not complaining just noting. After I got the RBI saws and the 220 is about 1 to 2 years older because I had to get a 226 because of the mirrors and other bigger projects I was cutting. My Hegner was then dedicated to doing strictly angle cutting for collapsible baskets and trivets which I made over 100 of. I really did not like their blade system and not sure what they are now. but that wedge design was a pain in the butt. As you know not have a blade tension system up front I had to tighten blade by turning and loosening the back screw. Thus the move to the RBI I scrolled on my friends RBI but he still had the barrel clamps and they were fine but the new system was 10 times better. I am guessing RBI has gotten their act together after the change over. In that link I was having a huge hard time getting parts and it was costing me precious time. getting frustrated and I guess I pushed calling them out too hard for the money you spend on their saws that Travis took exception and slapped me. So I do not have any intention of getting into verbal wars with whoever wants to disagree with any advice I try to give or any things I post here any more. What has worked for me may not for everyone and everyone has to do what is best for them and their tools. Weather that is oiling or using dry lube on parts that pivot and following instructions. It is always wise to follow instructions and get to know your tools and what is proper. I am not telling anyone to do anything different. Lucky maybe but my saws owe me nothing for as long as I used them and certainly can say I used them in an industrial type setting. I maintain all my tools. if i have to down the road replace a part I have knowledge to do it and will. But I will from now on be careful about what I suggest or any info I put out there. I tried to preface things all the time saying this is what I do or did. Happy Scrolling to all.

Yep I'm with Paul also. So what he said. (Thanks Paul @Scrappile) Marg

Ahh thanks, Melanie, thought maybe I have had too much wine... Now when I look at the picture I can see nothing else.. that fine wine going to waste...

Finished this Plaque for an order

My trick for always having the same tension on my Excal 21" w. Pegas Chuck First I flip the lever back so I can see the screw in the chuck. Then I thread through the hole. I place the blade in the top chuck, so the top of the blade is at the top of the chuck screw. (image 1) Once tightened I flip the lever back down to the normal untensioned position. I then make sure the bottom blade is set into the bottom chuck and then tighten the bottom knob. Next, I loosen the top chuck and pull up on the blade gently removing slack, and then retighten top. (image 2) Flip the lever to tension on. I have the same tension for every type of blade, and have never broken a blade.

Hey Guys, bit to cold here in th uk to potter in the man cave, plus other stuff getting in the way, ( so much for having plenty of time when retired,) so not upto much on the bench. still getting my head around inkscape, with all the you tube lessons, (indoor in the warm job) any how finaly got it stuck together, im happy with it,

Boobs?

Looks great. I hope you replace your wife's lipstick. You can also use nail polish or a bit of paint!

Nice work Barb!

Well, I know of a couple different people ( one is here on the village I won't mention the names ) that never once oiled their Hegner and it got so badly worn that it wouldn't saw correctly.. They tried replacing the bushing and it was out of stock and wouldn't be available for some time as everything was backed up due to Covid.. Hegner did have a complete new upper arm but seems like they also needed a special bolt? Said person just bought a brand new saw and would later repair the old saw as a backup.. That all being said.. I would oil the Hegners at least once in a while, LOL... I've gotta say that it's pretty impressive that JT's saws are still running strong after nearly 30 years and many of these years was used in a production type setting.. and he never once oiled it.. I know of two different people on the FB groups that had hawks and I have no idea if they maintained them or not.. they was 35-40 year old saws used in production type setting their whole life and the upper arm had worn clean through where that wedge rides on it.. There is probably many more cases of that because Hawk redesigned the arms to accept a insert.. this way you will never wear out a saw.. you might wear out the wedge and the insert but for about $30 you can just replace those parts and go back at it for another 30 years or? Not to discriminate on any brand of saw but, for the money you pay for these new Pegas saws..or any saw in that near $1000 price range.. How many of them will not really need any major repairs in 30 years of production type use.. let alone never oiled like the manufacture suggest.. Maybe the Hawk prices have gone up but the last I knew a 20" new Hawk was $1200.. not too far from these other line of saws.. JT, Bushton should send you a new saw.. that's one heck of an advertisement right there..

The fox is a neat pattern.

Since I don't waste my time watching any sports I decided to do my new favorite time killer, working in the shop (Scrolling something) Decided on this SG rabbit pattern. Reduced in size by 20% to fit a scrap of 3/8" canary wood I had laying around.

Love the wood choice.

Lovely. Well done. Marg

It's a simple project compared to all of the super fantastic items I've seen in this website, but the fact that I didn't ruin it is just enough to brag about, a little. 1/4" BB painted black.

I think it's lovely and definitely something to brag about. Marg

Looks great Charlie. Love the pallet wood, we can only get pine pallet wood here. Marg

I guess because they use bushings rather than bearings. And, oil is cheap. So why not?

Thanks for sharing sush a pices of FOLRK AZRT, Happpy Hoiladays

Very nice Barb. Jerry

This thread has gone a lot of places.... Someone said "They are called sealed bearings my friend." Maybe on your saw but on my Hegner that is totally wrong. They have upper and lower arm bushings not sealed bearings. The Hegners have been built like this for decades and works well. I keep reading about people having to change there bears on other saws but not an issue on the Hegner. Yes, Hegner suggests a little bit of oil every 10 hours. And with this, I am going to ignore any additional advice on this thread.

There is only two sealed bearings in a Hawk saw.. Those would be in the bar that connects the motor to the lower arm.. The bearings in the upper and lower arms are not sealed bearings... Cars don't use grease fittings anymore because of a couple reasons.. 1 being the majority of cars was lacking in getting greased in the first place and 2. it was a advertising ploy to say it never needs greased again.. and they can actually sell you more parts. Failure to grease the grease fittings on cars would leave a part ungreased and also allowed water to get trapped into the boots and prematurely wear the parts out.. a sealed part is just that.. they pack it full of grease and seal it.. it's just a throw away part that typically last long enough to get the car out of warranty.. Most quality repair shops that are not a dealer service center will replace the parts with quality greasable parts.. provided they always come in to be serviced at that shop so they get greased.. otherwise they may just put on another sealed part.. Moog brand suspension parts are lifetime warranted and come with grease fittings.. most others are just sealed parts.. Moog stands behind the warranty too.. If it wears out / break's.. they'll replace it free of charge... The sealed ones are also " lifetime " however the fine print shows a " expected lifetime " LOL .. I've seen Moog warranty stuff free when it clearly was never even greased, LOL but that could be whoever you get for that warranty claim too.. each person may or maynot warranty it IF it was never greased.. You get what you pay for.. Moog isn't the cheapest replacement parts.. but again.. lifetime warrantied vrs. limited lifetime.

You really did a great job on that.

That is really cute.

Well done Jimmy.

They are called sealed bearings my friend. Every 10 hours could be like every other day you are oiling. I change my oil every 7,000 miles which comes out to twice a year. I am retired. My saw is RBI's If Hegner says oil then oil. Just seems excessive. I understand the pivot points Kevin eludes to and I watch them what can I tell you my pivot wedge does not move. the tension handle will wear with or without oil. I did spray dry lube on it when I replaced it 5 years ago. Oil changes in cars is subjective. i do not work on cars any more but between 6 and 7,000 it gets oil changed. Why did they do away with all the grease fittings on cars today. They build them differently today. Today they tell you it is a bad idea to let cars sit and idle especially warming them up like we use to. It wears things down faster than getting and driving. Oil is dispersed faster that way. Hey do what you want but you can not tell me oiling every 10 hours is normal. Sorry.

Great job, RJ

very nice

After some serious sewing projects for our boat, I finally got some time on the saw! 3/4 plywood of unknown woods. A gift from a friend. Used a #5mg blade. No finish on it yet. Actually, not sure what to use! Thoughts? I don't want to mess up the flexibility. 20230629_151731.mp4

They all look great. Love the light housa. Good luck with your show.

My daughter moved houses a couple of months back. I saw an idea similar to this online. I shrunk it and added the tree and the wreath. Feliz Navidad!

Beautiful work Wichata. All the best with your show.

awesome work

Very nice, good luck with sales, RJ

Four Miniature Birdhouse Ornaments finished this weekend. The patterns are by the late Diane Thompson. The birdhouses are Basswood and Ash. The little birds are Purpleheart. Cut on the Pegas scroll saw using Pegas #6 Super Skip blades. After sanding, dipped in diluted Shellac and sanded again. Comments Welcome.