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Some I made to look at as a reference for when I make a mess of things.

A custom request, Tractor Farmall Puzzle. The pattern is by Harvey Blyer. It is made from 3/4" Poplar and measures approximately 6 1/2" x 10". Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #3 MGT blades. After sanding with a Mac Mop, dipped in diluted Shellac and then lightly sanded again. Comments welcome.

The service station......another piece for my village this morning, this one was fun, just went with my thoughts along the way, I made patterns for the pump parts to cut out.

Got this Wood Trimmer today from temu which I seen on FB, don't seem like a bad tool for $25 now will see how it works

If you go to the hobby stores and see all the laser cut ornaments from China they appear to be made from 1/8" as well.. I'm not sure what type of plywood. Doesn't really feel like BBply.. they feel really light and maybe some sort of real cheap ply.. I kinda like the idea for the 1/16" and have thought many times about buying some to try.. especially since many of the laser engraved ornaments I've been doing as of late are 2 layers.. I'm not even sure if my local suppliers has anything less than 1/8.. Where do you all find the thin stuff? I like the painted backer on my laser cut stuff so much I've been considering doing the same with my scrolled ornaments.. The backer brings out the details so much better than just a plain cut ornament.. Also gives a spot on the back side to engrave or write your name or logo etc.. which I have not done yet but thinking I need to.. I'd take a lot of time to do this on the laser though so I think a small branding iron or even just a rubber stamp and clear over it.

Nah, you don't like how much room they take up, and the tall stand.. Keep the Ex and enjoy making projects.. You're not production cutting so you likely won't wear it out.. if you do you have a back-up and I don't see you wearing both out.. LOL

Boobs?

I think the answer to that ? Barb may depend upon how much of that fine wine Paul had been partaking of at that time which may have also been effecting his ability to see it at that time as well though I confess I had not been partaking myself and didn’t see it until you said what you saw, then I too saw it the same. Prior to that, I wasn’t sure what I saw.

I'm happy to announce that our Ornaments For Charity - 2023 Edition eBook is now available! For the last 13 years, members of Scroll Saw Village have donated their talents to designing ornaments for this unique eBook of patterns. This year, we added 5 designers to design 20 additional patterns. The book has gotten so large, we had to split it into 2 books. Book 1 covers our first 10 years; 2010-2020. Our newest book, Book 2, covers 2021-2023. Between the two books, we have 171 pages with 525 Holiday ornament patterns! So be sure to download both books. You can download the eBooks for free to check them out. If you decide to keep these amazing pattern books, we ask you to donate to your favorite charity (we're on the honor system here). Remember, this isn't about "buying" an eBook of patterns, it's about helping those in need. So dig deep when donating to your favorite charity. Please spread the word about these wonderful eBooks of patterns. Post to your favorite social media, other clubs, and organizations. The more people who know about it, the more money we're able to raise for worthy causes. You can find those eBooks here. There will be a tab on the navigation menu through Christmas. After Christmas, it will be moved under the Patterns tab in the navigation bar. Special thanks to the following designers for donating patterns to this year's Ornaments For Charity eBook: @Travis @don in brooklin on @jr42 @jesse I hope everybody has a wonderful Holiday Season!

Just finished this a short while ago. Measures 12 inches tall and 9 inches wide. It's a Steve Good pattern. Made out of 1/8 Baltic Birch Plywood. I have a one inch backer on it so it can stand up.,

Very well done Ralph.

Nicely done Ralph. Your granddaughter will be proud.

Ray is correct about the motor rotating but not so much about the motor rotating itself.. as it should be bolted down tight.. I would be more apt to say.. make sure the upper arm is the same distance from the table top at both ends.. These saws are known for that back knob on top at the back of the saw to get worn threads and they'll start spinning on their own.. and that will make the saw noisy too from running out of alignment.. I would say double check that.. For some reason I thought you already mentioned that you checked that.. but if not that would be one of the first things to look at.. then the bellows , LOL.. Still blows me away that guy you talked to said the bellows does nothing.. guess it shows me how much knowledge he has on these saws, LOL

Interesting on his thought process of that bellows doing nothing, because when it's not there it bangs on the inside of that tube.. it's there for a reason trust me I know because I left it out on my saw the first time I rebuilt it.. had to take it all back apart just to put that bellows back on.. and shortly after that someone here posted about the same type of issue and it was their problem too.. I assume you maybe talked to Mike? .. Ray knows his stuff because he has rebuilt and worked on these saws for years.. so hopefully he can diagnose it over the phone. I was sure that was your issue when you said it was still running fine other than noisey and that it sounded like it was up front of the saw.. You should be able to make a video without cell service.. but you wouldn't be able to send it until you can get to an area with service or connect to wifi..

nice job

very nice

Have you tried rotating, adjusting the motor? I recall that when I adjusted mine to ease the aggressiveness that when I took it too far, it did start a banging until I backed it off. Maybe you need to try adjusting yours. Just a guess. When something suddenly starts banging, it usually means that something broke. If you have removed the side cover on your saw and verified that nothing appears to have broken, it will have to come apart. You've inspected the mechanisms on the front of the saw but it could still be a broken bolt or screw in the rear where it connects to the motor. That's what it sounds like to me. Good luck and please inform us of what you find.

Very well done, Ralph. I have one similar to do. But have to wait for the piece of wood I have for it to climatize. Going to be my Nativity piece for this year.

Looks good, RJ

Very nice excellent cutting, RJ

Congrads Edward on the new router, keep us posted how it works out, RJ

I got it of online after a search. I have it here and will send it to you if you want

I think that the light 1/8" plywood is likely basswood ply. I have used some and easier to cut on a laser than BB. I would not try it on a scrollsaw. I bought some 1/16" ply on BB Amazon to try out.

It's been several years since I purchased any of the 1/16th plywood, and all my records are "somewhere", since we've moved twice in 2 years. I did a Google search for 1/16th aircraft ply, several names came up, and Aircraft Spruce sounded really familiar, and my husband agreed. They have 8 locations, including Canada and Alaska, so shipping is quite convenient. You can find them at aircraftspruce.com. Customer Service is 800-861-3192 and their Order line is 877-477-7823. Check their website for additional numbers for outside US and one for Canada as well. It's Finnish birch, their quality was always great and shipping was really quick. I also tried their 1/32nd. The people who didn't like it thought it felt flimsy, and those that liked it described it as delicate. You can't please everyone, but I've never had any complaints with the 1/16th. Hope this helps.

Here is the link to the pattern. https://free-dxf.com/design-wine-glass-clipart/free-download-dxf-cdr-ai-svg/k1Kjm/download/svg

Similar to this is done in the CNC would where you want to paint the engraved parts but not the main block of wood.. What I do for that is seal it up with at least 3-4 coats of clear.. then paint the carved section and sand any overspray of the paint off then clear over the whole project.. It's quite a process and I would for sure not want to do that with the 1000+ ornaments I sell each year.. LOL Even if you were to tape both sides and spray paint the ornament and then peel off the tape.. the paint soaks into the fibers unless you seal it "really well" with clear.. so it's not a quick or easy process... Can it be done.. sure it can but not in a production type setting where you need practical processes to manage time vrs. money..

I see the wine spilling of course, that is easy, especially after you have pointed it out. But, ignoring that for the moment and looking at the outline, I see a dwarf with a heavy pack on his back, leaning forward and facing to the right. I'm having coffee, it's too early to start into the wine.

I can think of some people who I would like to send this to. But then, as it says, it would not fix the problem.

I hate to say what I see. It is a family site.

Thanks Kevin. I had the same feelings with the Dewalt because it worked on the same system. yes the Hawks as so easy to thread blades and retighten that one hand puts blade in and other tightens thumbscrew. It is a no brainer when you blade is set. That is why I kept those 2 saws. yes they take up some room but my area is dedicated to the saws and have no problem. They are sitting on a basement concrete floor so there is no bounce or creeping. Rock solid. When I had the Dewalt that system had more rocking of the blade than the RBI so I did the fix that was going around at that time to get most of it out. there was very little back to front movement. My fix was a piece of wood to take it out of the back end.

But I did like how my Hawk ran and cut. I hated to part with it. The 220 will be 6 inches shorter footprint and would fit much better. And heck, I enjoy the search.

Dang! Now you two have got me wanting another Hawk. I had the 226 VS Ultra but it was too big for my shop. So I'll have to start a search for a good used 220 VS and see how it works. I do see them all the time for under $300 so I might have to sell of an Ex to make room and find the money. Wouldn't that be neat? I'll be like Kevin and have one of each.

Nice work Barb, RJ

The new Hawk is hands down my favorite saw and a close second is the Hawk 226VS Ultra from 1998 ( same as your saws with the kind of square blade holders ) The new Hawk has very similar style blade holders too but they are slightly bigger and have a rounded bottom corners.. As for getting the same blade tension every single time.. There is no saw on the market other than Hawk that will do that.. The fine folks at Bushton told me they call it a Hawk "Precision" scroll saw for a reason, LOL.. There is no other saw so precise made currently.. How important is that? I don't know.. I mean the Excalibur and DeWalt saws with those short arms are not nearly as picky about tension and are easier on saw blades too because those short arms give the blade a rocking back and forth motion which helps clear sawdust and give the blade a millisecond or so to cool off.. Blade last a bit longer in those shorter arms on these type of saws.. That rocking motion makes for a bit more aggressive cutting... great for doing larger profile cuts like the big batch of clocks I just did.. the EX cuts though that profile a bit faster.. Even with the blade aggression set as perfect as you can get it, it is still more aggressive than a Hawk.. I can use either saw for fine detail work but I find that the Hawk is just way more enjoyable to do those tough detail cuts.. while the Hawk maybe a tad slower at cutting.. the quick no hassle blade changes with no guesswork on tension etc.. makes up more than enough time and actually get projects completed faster and more relaxed in those tight corners etc.. than with the EX type saws.. as you seen in my video the other day cutting out those clocks.. I was using the EX and I was stopping the saw and restarting on some tighter spots.. partly because the camera with in the way of my view but the other part was it's a bit aggressive in those tight spots.. I don't have to think twice about those tight spots with the Hawk.. If you go back and watch that video you'll notice that on changing to the next hole when tensioning the blade I use one finger to push downward on the upper blade chuck and I hold the blade with the other hand pulling up on it to take out the slack in all those bearings, LOL.. I also tighten the tension lever slightly to also pull down on the upper arm and then loosen the thumb screw and re-tighten it.. None of that garbage has to happen with the Hawk, LOL.. and doing fretwork the Hawk is hands down faster to get the job done for these reason.. and again, more relaxing to use. Cutting those thick 3/4" puzzles the EX is faster because it is more aggressive and there isn't too many inside cuts to puzzles.. so I'd rather use the EX if I need to get a order out.. again otherwise the Hawk is more relaxing and enjoyable to use.. IF I was to ever do much angle cutting the EX would be my choice of saw because the table stays flat.. IF I could only have one saw the new Hawk would be what I'd have.. but the best is owning both the new Hawk and the EX.. as there are times I want that faster more aggressive cut.. but most times I'd rather use the Hawk..

My trick for always having the same tension on my Excal 21" w. Pegas Chuck First I flip the lever back so I can see the screw in the chuck. Then I thread through the hole. I place the blade in the top chuck, so the top of the blade is at the top of the chuck screw. (image 1) Once tightened I flip the lever back down to the normal untensioned position. I then make sure the bottom blade is set into the bottom chuck and then tighten the bottom knob. Next, I loosen the top chuck and pull up on the blade gently removing slack, and then retighten top. (image 2) Flip the lever to tension on. I have the same tension for every type of blade, and have never broken a blade.

I figured those bushings/bearings were enclosed or something because no oil ran in just down the sides. Did not feel any different but that is what the manual said and no oil on that lever. That is too close to dust for oil in my opinion. The oil on the wedge in the back to me was a waste of time but manual said do it so I must obey manual. I have a question for you Kevin. Being you saw on different system saws which do you prefer? On the Excalibur is the blade set in clamps that are always dialed into the same spot or are they like the Dewalt where you can slide the blade up high or low as much as you want. The RBI has a set max with the bar behind the blade in the block type holders. Not sure if they still use those in the new version. But I like that so much because sometimes you get blades that are just a little longer and what I do is snip some off to keep the same tension on all blades. I just did not like that short action of the arms when sawing as with the Dewalt. So use to the Hegner and then after that the RBI. I got that Dewalt dirt cheap so had to buy it brand new when Home Depot was clearing them out. With stand $80 Type#1 It litterly crawled in the truck before I could pay for it. I would have bought every one they had but no more available within NJ. I had guy check for me. Also with the RBI blade holders, the blade is always straight up and down when inserted. Dewalt it could lean forward or back. Hegner you had to have that key to tighten blade in clamp.

Love it Barb. Where did you get the pattern?

Yes, every time I have had a problem with my scroll saw, it has happened at this time of year. It is what convinced me that I needed two saws.

Ditto with @Scrappile. And I love it by the way. Very unique.

very nice job

terrific job

Darn i did not see what you saw until you said what you saw and then immediately I see what you saw and am wondering why I didn't see what you saw before you said what you saw. Now I see. That is a whole lot of see sawing.

Thanks for sharing. According to him I sure don't oil my saw near enough.

Exactly my feelings too. It costs nothing to release the tension. The springs on a car begin to sag after having the weight sitting on them year in and year out. Paul, take the time to go to this Facebook site and do some reading. There is a lot of info on how to maintain and adjust all the stuff on the Hegners. I was aware of some of it but not all. Very interesting.

Hummm, I think I leave mine without tension most the time because when I stop the saw the first thing I do is release the tension because I am either going to change blades or move to a new hole to start sawing again. But this will make me double check because I know with no tension nothing will be hurt whether this is true or not. So why not release the tension just in case. Could that be out of alignment because the bushings are worn?? Could be another cause.

I have a few hundred dollars worth of I guess you could call it exotic wood coming soon from Ocooch Hardwoods... Not about to waste any expensive wood so I figured it was time for more practice. My mother in law gave me some 1 inch thick cedar planks that were in her garage probably 20 years and although straight, they were super dry and hard. Since I never tried stack cutting or even wrapping a project with packing tape it was time to give it a shot. I still had that maple leaf pattern I traced from the leaf found on the ground so this would be my first time making a box with that leaf design using 1/4" ply on the top and bottom with that brick hard cedar sandwiched inside. The biggest blade was a #7 it got it done but it was slow going through 1-1/2"... So I surprised myself trying something new that turned out okay I guess. Put some wipe on poly and calling it done!

Well, bad news. It wasn't the bottom rocker arm bellows. Indeed, that part had practically disintegrated, but I received the replacement today and installed it. No change. Still get the loud banging noise. I called Seyco and talked to a fellow. I told him what I had done so far and he informed me that the bottom bellows is completely non-functional. He said he doesn't know why they even put a bellows on the bottom arm. Anywho, he had me check a couple things. He asked me if I could take a video and send it to him, but I don't have cell reception where I live, so no-go on that. Non of the obvious possibilities seem to be my problem. I'm waiting on a return call from Ray Seymour, himself, to see if he can diagnose the problem. I'm reaching a point where if I don't get some resolution soon, I'm going to be in trouble. I gotta start thinking about my options.