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Here's the first of seven angels I'm making for the girlfriend for Christmas, when done they'll spell out " Let It Go" ( her favorite saying ) I'll also get 7 snowflakes .

I know many of you have seen these, but there are new members. Four Miniature Birdhouse Ornaments pattern by the late Diana Thompson. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #6 Super Skip blades. After assembly, sanding with a Mac Mop, dipped in diluted Shellac and another light sanding. Comments welcome.

Here is todays project. IESUS NAZARENVS REX IVDAEORVM is what was written on a pice of rough wood above Jesus head on the cross. I cut it out of SUPER old pine from here on our property. I did a little chiseling to make it look as I wanted and then slightly stained it with golden oak stain, trying to keep the wormholes unstained.

Here is the last of my "Must do" Christmas gifts. The phone stands are Steve Good pattern that is enlarged a bit. 1/4" poplar cut with #5 blade. I am most proud of the names as it is the first time I really used Inkscape properly. These are for my nieces and nephew. The wand is an Al Baggatta pattern from Scrollsaw woodworking magazine. I believe it is cherry with a 7/8" dowel as the pointer. This is for my grandson. He is also getting a magic kit. The cats are maple/walnut with a cork backer. Cut with a #2/0 blade. Another Steve Good pattern. This was a special request.

"Nestled Back By The Creek"........Fieldstone fireplace, sasquatch is watching too, made for a friend/co-worker who likes sasquatch

Meet Liam my grandson, our youngest and arguably most adorable staff volunteer here at Poppy's Workshop! This little dynamo has already claimed the title of our official toy tester [and taster]. Armed with an unbridled enthusiasm for all things that can go in his mouth, Liam fearlessly dives into a world of wooden wonders, giving each creation his rigorous "baby-approved" test. With every giggle, coo, and chubby-handed exploration, he unknowingly becomes the heartbeat of our workshop, infusing each toy with the purest form of joy and curiosity. In the bustling realm of creativity and craftsmanship, Liam reigns supreme as the pint-sized ambassador of play. His discerning taste and boundless energy keep our team on their toes, ensuring that every hand-made wooden toy passes the stringent Liam Test with flying colors. Who knew that a ten-month-old could wield such influence in the world of artisanal creations? Here at Poppy's Workshop, we celebrate the tiniest team member with the biggest heart, making playtime a serious business (according to Liam, at least)! #LiamsToyTime #PoppyApproved #TinyTester https://poppysworkshop.org/

A Steve Good pattern (thanks Steve) I enlarged. Sun = 10 inches by 3/4" thick Canadian Cedar Backer=11 1/2 inches 3/4" thick Poplar Shellac for sun & acrylic paint for backer Used 4 3/8" wooden dowels to mount the sun to the backer - drilled holes 1/4" deep into the sun, installed the dowels while praying. Borrowed some of my wife's lipstick and coated the ends of the dowels, then positioned the sun over the backer and pressed the sun down onto the backer, transferring the dowel locations to the backer. Drilled 1/4" holes into the lipstick markings (more praying). IT WORKED! The dowels lined up with the holes and I was able to press/tap (pray) the ends into the sun backer. Whew! Ended with a prayer of thanks. Now to see if someone likes it as much as I do at the next event.

I made a batch of these photo frame insert ornaments this year. The photo is not very good because my printer fuser roller was bad and the inkjet printer was clogged again.

Finished this piece up few days ago. Thanks to Paul (grampa) for the great pattern. It's 16x20 made for 1/2" plywood.

Ha. went to is if the book was on ebay at my favorite book store. It looked familiar. Checked my past purchases. I do have it now I just have to find it. Someday I have to get organized,,, another New Years resolution...2030!

Yeah I think it could save from buying that assembly every few years. I think repacking bearings every 200ish hours would be a good idea.. I mentioned before that you cannot get just single bearings and sleeves and you can only get the whole link arm assembly. Something I want to try and look into is the Jet saw parts.. I have a hunch that the bearings and sleeves for the Jet is probably the same parts.. Jet sells just the bearings and sleeves individually so next time I have a issue with a bearing.. I'm going to try ordering the parts from Jet and compare to see.. Pretty sure it's probably the same set of bearings and sleeves.. I had DeWalt bearings for when I had my DeWalt.. many bearings was the same but the inner sleeves are different so I couldn't use them on my Excalibur and I searched for the sleeves everywhere.. they are a oddball size and maybe special made or in house made for the Excalibur.. Jet saws are real similar and the parts list breakdown shows them individual.. appears to be able to order them separately from ereplacementparts.. Worth a try..

To test a potentiometer. Measure the total resistance: Connect one probe of your multimeter to each of the outer terminals of the potentiometer. The multimeter should display a resistance value. This value should be equal to the total resistance of the potentiometer, which is usually printed on the body of the component. Measure the wiper resistance: Move the wiper to the center of the potentiometer. Connect one probe of your multimeter to one outer terminal and the other probe to the wiper terminal. The multimeter should display a resistance value. This value should be approximately half the total resistance of the potentiometer. Rotate the potentiometer through its full range, looking for dead spots or other erratic changes. The resistance should change smoothly from maximum to minimum and back. You can also check them with the power on by measuring the voltage. If I remember correctly, the voltage is only 5 volts DC. I'm an old-school electronics technician, so I prefer an analog meter for this test and have a Simson 260 just for this sort of thing. However, you can do it with a cheap digital meter.

One day a sasquatch was lurking near some green trees. He was approaching a small home. He wanted to see what the stone structure is used for. Then all of a sudden a big red Rigid came from the sky and scared him away.

My Sister aske for a special Christmas gift. She has a lot of Jewelry chains that always get knoted up in her regular jewelry box and asked if I could make her a case where she could hang her chains. I looked a several boxes on the web to get some ideas and came up with my own design (on the fly!) I would have like to use an exotic wood but it is getting very expensive so I went with 1/2" Poplar since it would be painted. Built the doors first since that would determine the final size of the box. Routered the recess for the front plaque first and then cut the miters. I used my Peacock pattern (Stack cut) 1/8" BBPW and used an 1/8" backer painted black and felt on the inside. Used picture frame hold downs to hold it all in place. Built the frame based on the dimensions of the combined doors. Added a 1/4" backer into the recess of the frame. Went 1/4" but should have gone a little wider. Not much room for the screws. 3M sprayed felt and applied to inside of backer. Bought hinges and hangers and french cleat from Woodcraft. Got very thin magnets from HD. Finish was several coats of black lacquer. Gold paint was from Hobby Lobby for the peacocks. I'll be sending it off this week and hope it get there before Christmas.

Terry (my hubby) and I had watched a YouTube video on melting plastic milk bottle caps to make chopping boards. Anyway when we had finished we realized there where too many little air bubbles and it would not be any good for chopping boards. So after looking at it for a few days I decided I could make Christmas ornaments for a couple of friends that had collected some caps for us. It was sooooooooooo easy to cut, it was like cutting butter. Marg

nice job

Here is a sample of some Christmas ornaments that I either sold or gave away.

Kinda agree with you. I have seen many of these Sun Faces. Most are smiling.

That would be great.

Hey Joe, looks good, am i the only onr that thinks it looks more like a devil, imagine the the outer spikes as flames, or is it just my warped mind? Misty

Very well done.

Compound Christmas Ornaments - Easy-To-Make and Fun-To-Give Projects for the Holidays Diana Thompson Page 47 I checked because the covers do not always match the contents.

Since you brought it up, I don't think a rheostat would be suitable for a scroll saw speed control. Potentiometer: Typically used for low-power applications such as: Volume control in audio equipment Brightness control in lighting systems Position sensors in joysticks and other control devices Rheostat: Typically used for high-power applications such as: Motor speed control Heater control Lighting dimmer switches Power handling: Potentiometer: Designed for low power handling. Rheostat: Designed for high power handling. Internal construction: Potentiometer: Typically have a resistive element made of a conductive film or wire. Rheostat: Typically have a resistive element made of wire wound around a ceramic core.

So it seems like repacking bearings occasionally would be a good idea.

My wife uses Ship It and my sister just received it. She loved i and said it was perfect and loved the finish. 2 weeks to finish this project

Turned out great, well done ...Paul

My local Home Depot in Denton TX has 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit in stock.

Creative use for wife's lipstick! In the interest of preserving marital bliss maybe ask Santa for some of these if you plan on using dowels frequently! dowel centers

I think the only sealed bearing in these is the one that goes onto the motor. All others are a needle bearing with a sleeve insert.

I believe it is this book. Angel on cover. Available on Amazon or Foxchappel

My father-in-law passed away last December. Among many other good things he was an awesome dirt track racer. His car was #52, and my children and grandchildren have all used 52 on their sports jerseys. I made this ornament for my wife along with 5 others for kids and grandkids. After going over names with my wife and daughter this morning I’ve got 6 more to go. Sometimes an idea can be too good.

Really nice idea! Your family will cherish them! I am sure it won't take you too long to cut them out either!

A few of mine over the years..

A couple of 3-D and gnomeaments I've made for the tree. The dragon ended up being a fridge magnet because the wife didn't want a dragon on the tree.

My ornaments so far this year.

This was a cute cut. I didn't plan for it to be an ornament, but he can't stand up! Al Baggatta pattern.

Did a quad stack cut of the snowman, and a triple stack for the 3D Tree one. I'm done with Christmas cutting now. ps: Finished 3 rolling toys yesterday.

2022 Christmas tree with ornaments made that year. Several are hanging on the window screen. The snowmen are made from Jenga blocks but could be easily made with a scrollsaw. The penguin and Snowman are burnt out light bulbs.

oh Boy! I was hoping you would do a Christmas Ornament challenge. These are just the ones I have done for this year. Every year I make a new batch of Christmas Ornaments.

This year I volunteered to make portrait ornaments for members of my church in exchange for donations to the church as "payment". Made 56, so far.

Here is a flurry of snowflakes I made for me! These are made from a ribbed plastic and hang outside on my front porch.

Here are some of mine:)

Here are some ornaments I cut from the patterns in this year's business kit.

Here are a few I have made recently. I have been trying to use up bits and pieces of wood I have that are too thin for about anything else and also trying to learn to cut thin stock. Stack cutting is not an option since I only want one of each. I have also been learning some new photography and photo editing skills. From Holiday Ornaments For the Scroll Saw - Rick Longabaugh

As I said earlier, if you stain or ,paint your wood Poly or Lacquer are the best choices. It sound like you may have a spray booth and spray equipment. If you do, buying either Poly or Lacquer in bulk is going to be much cheaper. Either, purchased in rattle cans is also an option but tends to get pricy if you use a large quantity. I highly suggest you give a clear gloss or satin Lacquer a try. It will give you a finish as good as Poly with a much faster dry time. With multiple coats the finish get smoother and no, or very little sanding, required. I also find it brings out the beauty of the wood better than Poly. The Laquer oder is strong, as is Poly, while spraying, but diapates quickly. Lacquer area overspray is dust, Poly is sticky. Spray Lacquer gets into small crevices and onto the vertical cut surfaces better than Poly also. The dip process you used with the oil is better at getting all surfaces coated than spraying so you need to take care not to spray either Poly or Lacquer too heavy a coat or you will get puddling and runs. I have also experienced blushing with both if I apply too heavy a coating. A follow up coat of Lacquer will eliminate the Blushing as a follow up coat of Lacquer melts the previous coat, but a subsequent coat of Poly will not.

Even Clear varnish tends to yellow over time. And, I personally do not like oil finishes because even when they feel dry to the touch it will attract dust to the work. For the same reason I would not use any kind of wax finish. Most appropriate choices for uncolored or stained wood include Clear Spray orWipe-on Ppolyurathane and Clear Spray Lacquer. I use rattle can lacquer but it is available in bulk at much lower cost per use as long as you have the equipment to spray. For wood that you add color to, it depends on the paint type. Clear acrylic sprays are best for pieces painted with Acrylic (water base) Paints or stains. Polycrylic is a name brand that tends to be expensive, but I have found Krylon and some store brand maufacturers have Clear Acrylic protective coatings at much lower costs. I use Clear Spray Laquer over acrylic painted pieces also, with out any problems. A craft store, like Hobby Lobby here in the USA, has the acrylic spray cans at much lower cost that the hardware stores that only handle the Polycrylic brand. For any oil based painted pieces I would stick with polyurethane or lacquer. Both Lacquer and Poly create a hard durable surface. IMHO, if it good enough for most furniture manufactuers, it is good enough for Scroll work. Clear Acrylic coatings are also good, but, again in my opinion, not quite as durable as Poly. Lacquer and the acrylic coatings have the advantage of a very fast dry time, while poly takes forever to dry just to be able to handle, especially if the humidity is high. For me a BLO finish takes too much work and time, that to me is not warrented for the product our hobby produces. And, last, Poly is the only protective coating I will use for any piece that will hang outside.