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My first multi-wood intarsia piece is done. Finished with 4 coats of shellac. Frame is scrap wood, oak??? Finished with one coat of black Osmo.

While the right side of the picture recalls spring and summer, the left side depicts autumn and the coming winter. Plans and drawing belongs to me.

Another recent cut from Steve Good's collection.. After a few people seen it now i get to make a couple more of them...

Back of December 26,2013, Dan posted his attempt at a Carved Fretwork Cat that he had wanted to try for many years after reading an Article in Scroll Saw Woodworking and Crafts, Fall 2008 by Dick Miraglia. Well, his very successful attempt got me thinking about trying to do another carved fretwork piece. I had recently obtained an Eagle head illustration from a stock vector website called Freepik.com that I converted into a scrollable pattern, and I thought it would make a good subject for a carved piece. I was able to use Inkscape to convert the illustration into a scrollable pattern. I made two versions of the pattern, one for printing on 11x17 inch paper and one for printing on Suber B 13x19 inch paper. I’ll post them in Pattern Exchange for anyone who may be interested. As I most frequently create my Art Panels in very thin materials, I do not have a stock of thick - full one inch or greater – materials available. And, since working with a thick panel is well outside my comfort zone, I was reluctant to order some expensive material to experiment with. However, in Lowes, I found some Live Edge rough sawn full 6/4 x >13” x 6’ - unmarked, but I think - Southern Yellow Pine slabs that were on-sale. Unfortunately, the piece I purchased was too wide to fit through my planer or I would have reduced the thickness to a 5/4 or a little less. Because the slab width was greater than 13 inches, I was able to use the larger pattern for this project. Although the pattern is an easy cut, the cutting itself was VERY slow. The SYP is very hard in the heartwood areas, while quite soft elsewhere. I used Pegs #5 MTG R and Pegas #5 skip tooth blades to do most of the cutting. The skip tooth blade seemed to work better of the two. In some small areas I used a Pegas #3 MGT R blade. For cutting such thick wood, it was imperative the blade be perfectly perpendicular to the table, so the cut-out material would slip out easily. In many of the complicated shaped areas the cut-outs were done in sections to make removal easier. In order to lower the bacground I had to use AC glue to attach additional pieces of wood on each side flush to the top surface in order to maintain the base of my Trim router level while lowering the area beyond the image out to the edge of the panel. I had to replace the standard Trim router base with a much larger base to span the lowered area that was wider than half the width of the standard base. I used a 1” diameter Surface Planing Router Bit, in multiple passes, to lower the area about 3/8 of an inch. My only gripe about doing this kind of project is the sawdust mess the router makes when lowering the background area. My router table has dust collection, but the handheld Trim router does not. My shop s small and the sawdust get all over everything - poor me . I decided that, since the cutting was to be an unframed plaque, I would not make it square and I chose to make large radius rounded corners. So it was necesssary to cut the perimeter after all the fretwork and lowering was completed, but before carving. To do so, I had to attach a second pattern to the reverse side so I could flip the panel over to cut the perimeter in order to follow the cut line. After the perimeter cut was completed I used my bench mounted belt sander to smooth the perimeter to the line and then rounded the perimeter top edge on my Router Table using 1/4" round-over router bit. Carving was done using a combination of large sculpturing bits mounted in my Guinivere Wand which take off a lot of material fast but leaves very rough surfaces, and small sculptuing bits mounted in my Dremel Wand for the more detailed work. This required finishing by power sanding using my sanding mop and my small detail sander followed by a lot of hand sanding. The carved image was hand painted with Artist Acrylics, using the original illustration as a guide, and the completed plaque was protected with multiple applications of s spray Clear Gloss Acrylic Coating. This is the original illustration. This is my finished Plque. Sorry for the long narative. Comments and critiques always welcome.

Interesting. When I was having trouble with my EX a couple months ago, one of the things Ray at Seyco had me do was move the arm adjustment knob. I couldn't turn it. I bought the saw in 2016 and have never touched that knob. It was tight, like the threads were seized. I eventually got it to loosen up. Now I hope it doesn't start spinning freely on me.

So far I have had no luck with that kind of setup. The allen screws on those tighten down on the threads on the arbor, and it wobbles badly. ruins the threads on the arbor also. That is the experience I have had. I have found a threaded chuck yet that will thread directly to my arbor.

The chucks are installed on the right hand side because of the direction the rotation of the motor relates to the direction the threads of the chuck turn. If you want a chuck on both sides either find a left handed threaded chuck or use a keyed chuck. The keyless chuck will be a PIA because they will constantly be trying to loosen up, the keyed chucks can be tightened more than the keyless chuck and "should" work.

I also agree with Kevin. I have the Excalibur and Seyco. The blade chucks spread apart on both of them from me over tightening the blade. Replaced the blade chucks on both saws with Pegas blade clamps a few years ago and no more problems. Good luck.

Here is the frog. Two coats of shellac as the finish. The succulent now is posted in Bragging Rights.

I saw this Bauer variable speed Grinder on Harbor Freight. https://www.harborfreight.com/8-in-variable-speed-bench-grinder-with-led-work-light-59300.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12126402660&campaignid=12126402660&utm_content=150898466087&adsetid=150898466087&product=59300&store=296&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAkp6tBhB5EiwANTCx1CAPZn4gZf1MJF3h19Jf27AYpON2nDSzJsIjBGvmWa_oltvlBUffNRoCpIUQAvD_BwE I would like to make a sander where I can add chucks on both sides. I saw this chuck on the Grizzly website for a 5/8 arbor (which is the same as the Bauer one). Has anyone tried this? Is there a better choice out there? Can I only use the chuck on the right side due to the the way the threads turn? I like the idea of variable speed for sanding so that is why I was looking at this. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.

Very nice. Sorry for your loss.

Sorry I can't help but i will follow along this post to see what can be used, RJ

A couple special visitors.

This is the parts I'm talking about in case someone doesn't quite understand. https://seyco.com/product/ex21-a58a-complete-rear-tensioner-assembly/ If you take it apart and put blue loc-tite on the threads it'll last a good while.. IF you let it be it'll likely wear out faster and would then "have to" be replaced. Either case it's kind of tricky to get apart.. there is a lock-nut on the bottom side of that block that is quite hard to access and hold while trying to unthread it to get it out of the saw... Maybe I should have taken more time to take more of the saw apart.. I ended up just removing the plastic above the upper arm off and using some long needle nose pliers to hold the lock-nut.. harder to do yet was reaching back in there to hold the nut and get it to thread back on, LOL.. IF you can do the rubber-band thing.. that might be the best option.. or plan to take the whole back part of the saw apart which might have been easier for me to do..

I took it all apart and put blue loc-tite thread lock on the threads and put it back together.. haven't had an issue since and that's been some years ago.. That said, many topics on this issue and most have found a way to wrap a rubberband around it in some way to keep it from turning. Not sure if your saw has a mark on the knob or not, some saws do and some don't, but you could mark it with some tape and mark on the saw with some tape and just keep an eye on it and when it moves just move it back. Over time though this gets worst and will eventually need addressed. Seyco suggest buying a new rod and that threaded block that it screws into.. but again, I used blue loc-tite as I had it on hand and no issues for a long time. It was really bad on mine too.. like every single cut I'd have to re-adjust that knob.

Do not understand why you would want to do that. If you want a belt disc sander they sell those. https://www.ebay.com/itm/295773454599?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=295773454599&targetid=4580428016871213&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=603247657&mkgroupid=1229254994528356&rlsatarget=pla-4580428016871213&abcId=9316139&merchantid=51291&msclkid=a50decbbb95e16f329868912e0cca5cf If you want to use a mop pad then use either a drill motor or a drill press and lower speed with belts.

That is very impressive. I like the colors too!

How did you fix this? Mine seems to be doing that.

terrific job

excellent job

very nice work

I like reading the details.

Everything looks great, nice, nice job! Have the frog on my to do list also.

Very nice. Be careful or you'll be hooked.

Looks good, you are on your way now, RJ

Very nice use of the grain patterns to make it come alive. Well done!

Very nice your first intarsia pieces is outstanding, enjoy the Winnipeg weather in your shop in the basement. LOL

Nice work Barb!

Great piece!

No Tea--- Time To Flee

That turned out great!....Love the frame as well!

I love the base. I've never wanted a lathe before, but wow! The shade is ingenious.

Just taking a wild stab at what's going on without actually seeing the saw right in front of me.. and seeing what others have said you have done already.. I kind of question the condition of the threads in the adjuster block at the back of the saw.. I personally would start by making sure the upper arm is parallel to the saw table and adjust that knob at the back of the saw until it is. My saw had a issue with that back knob just freely spinning on it's own and would get all out of adjustment. As for mechanical problems.. that rod and threaded block seem to be the only thing I haven't really seen mention of.. When you lower your upper arm down if it come down and kind of slams hard.. that is beating up on the threads of that rod and the threaded block. The only other part I could comment on is if the blade chucks have been tighten too tight, this can cause the blade chucks to spread open and not give a true clamp of the blade.. This would require replacement of the whole assembly.. If that was the case I recommend the Pegas chucks from Denny. Since you've already replaced the set/thumb screws I feel like the two things I mentioned are what is left to check.

The clamp material is soft and can be overtightened causing the clamp to be out of alignment causing poor contact. I suggest replacing with a Pegas Chuck Head for popular saws. I have them on my website linked below my signature.

I guess to diagnose a problem it'd help a great deal to know what has been done already.. I may be making suggestions that has already been done. There is a lot of mechanical things that can lead to tension issues.. Even a lot of the "pros" can overlook something.. so make a list of what you've tried.. and maybe someone here can suggest something.. no point in us guessing at things that have already been addressed. Also when is the tension issue arise? Immediately or over the course of doing a cut? Blade breaking or no?

Yes I turned the base on my lathe. It is called basket illusion. The weave around the outside I did with a wood burner. This is a picture of just the base.

You can also go to a individual members profile page and if they have a gallery(s) you click on the gallery icon and it will take you to that members callery. I love looking though member's galleries for inspiration. Some very nice stuff there.

Barbara, You can access the member gallery from the top pull down menu Menu > Community > member gallery From the member gallery you can create a gallery of your own, add photo, give credit to designer, and more

I wish you best of luck. Hope to see some Intarsia work. I always loved looking at that type work but never got that pure desire to dive into it. Right now I am finishing up a bunch of pens and my next adventure as I put the pen turning aside for awhile, will be boxes. I want to use up some of the lumber I have stashed away over the years so that when I do pass my family has less to get rid of. I am thinking would be easier to give away boxes than board feet of lumber. Also have some turned trinket boxes in mind. That is my next adventure.