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Finished cutting this Cobra for my husband. Looking for a more detailed coiled cobra but this one is "similar" to the Shelby Cobra emblem, which is ok with him. Just waiting on some more Danish oil to give it a good drink. Almost finished with the roaring bear. Making this one for a Bear guard friend of ours. He spends his summer walking out it the woods with different scientist, biologist, geologist, etc, carrying a shot gun looking for danger. In case your curious, he has not had to kill a bear, but has seen many.

While the right side of the picture recalls spring and summer, the left side depicts autumn and the coming winter. Plans and drawing belongs to me.

Steve Good posted a link to this video on how to actually rebuild the upper drive mechanism on an Excalibure 21 using the linkage bought from Seyco. It is pretty well done. Not a tough job at all if you are patient and take your time.

The Foredom goes down to 500 rpm. I don't think you will find a variable-speed bench grinder that can go that slow. Unless someone makes one with a DC motor. These do exist but they are in the $1,400 price range.

If you are interested in trying to use for Intarsia, I would recommend getting the flex drum sanders from Judy Gale Roberts site. This size is probably most versatile for larger intarsia pieces and I know hubby used for sanding other things. You buy a variable speed grinder from your local store, then purchase the flex drum sanders from her site. I started out with that setup on a variable speed 8” grinder purchased at my local HD or Lowes. I then got her wonder wheel to also use on it and we have I am pretty sure used a “flap” and “mop” sanders on one end. (It is presently in storage unfortunately as is most all are tools ). Judy explain setting them up on her site here in her faq area: https://intarsia.com/pages/faq i also have the Foredom setup she sells. I purchased it later for use on much smaller pieces. Both have their purposes in my opinion but if I was starting out with one, I would go with the larger grinder with the flex drum sanders for more versatility in my opinion. i bought the Guinevere system before I actually took Intarsia lessons with JGR and learned how important variable speed was. The Guinevere is not variable speed and it is extremely high speed. I found it very difficult to control for my Intarsia needs. Hubby has used it on other work because it was there. But I regretted the purchase of the Guinevere for trying to sand Intarsia work. I much prefer the Flex drum sander on the variable speed grinder and the Foredom.

Here's my setup. I like the Foredom but you are limited to 1/4" shaft accessories. Most low speed grinders turn slower than one with variable speed. The slower speed works well for me and I really have no use for one that goes faster. I had this adapter made at a local machine shop. They charged me $100 which is plenty but well worth it to me. I have wheels on this cabinet so I can move it side to side for dust collection.

The Foredom has what appears to be a DC motor. DC motors are much better for speed control. More torque at lower speeds and more precise control. DC motors are used in the Pegas and EX-21 scroll saws and many other variable-speed devices. The Foredom would be my choice. The DC motor plus the available accessories... It just got added to my wish list.

HF has an 8" polisher with a 3/4 hp motor. They also sell a speed controller (for routers) that is well within the amperage rating of the polisher. I would call the HF technical number and ask if they are compatible. The motor needs to be a "universal" motor for the speed controller to work. The Foredom machine ( 500-7000) has a much larger variation in speed than the HF grinder (2000-3450), so there's that.

This is what I was talking about. I went out to her site and found this. https://intarsia.com/collections/hardware/products/foredom-variable-speed-bench-lathe?variant=31902373806123

Correct. The one I'm referring to looks like a bench grinder but it has longer shafts on either side and might run at a slower speed. I'm not sure. But if you want to install the long sanding drums it would space them out away from the body of the motor housing. Actually if you go to Judy Gale Roberts site, intarsia.com, she has what you want. Check it out.

No Tea--- Time To Flee

My first multi-wood intarsia piece is done. Finished with 4 coats of shellac. Frame is scrap wood, oak??? Finished with one coat of black Osmo.

Greetings all! Just retired a couple weeks ago. Was gifted a 1994 Hegner Multimax-22V five or six years ago. Had hoped to get it up and running (and figured out) in time for some Christmas gifts. I didn't do enough research before hand and built a nice wooden stand for it. The stand looked and worked great with the Hegner at rest, but put power to it and it was walking all over the place. Replaced the casters with 1.5" of laminated MDF that would be screwed down to the concrete garage floor, and triple reinforced all of the half-inch birch plywood. That stand is much sturdier now, and easily 100 pounds or so. After screwing it down to the concrete floor there is no vibration of any part of the tool except for the table, which is a problem. I can use it effectively at 1500rpm with the table vibrating very little. Still need to figure out how to dampen it further. The table tilt pivot points are secured so not sure what else I can do. The vibrations are really bad 800-1200rpm and 1600+rpm. Any suggestions?

Another recent cut from Steve Good's collection.. After a few people seen it now i get to make a couple more of them...

Melanie, thank you for all the helpful information. I did contact the Guinevere tech and he pretty much said the same thing as you and that you could not attach any variable speed device to it. So, just for clarification, when you stated: if I was starting out with one, I would go with the larger grinder with the flex drum sanders, is there a particular Grinder you would recommend such as the Rikon that Dave Monk has or are you talking about the Foredom or something else? Thank you for the link as well.

Thanks Dave....Yes, I did read that about the Foredom. that is why I like the chuck idea....How is the other side set up? did you have to have an adapter of the left side as well to hold your cylindrical drum sander?

Thanks Kevin. It might be worth a phone call to Jet to see if anybody there knows. I have no experience with that company so I'm not familiar with how friendly their customer service might be to inquisitive minds.

Are you talking about this part? https://seyco.com/product/ex21-a58a-complete-rear-tensioner-assembly/

Great work my favorite is the bear.

This was the issue when my Seyco (one of the first ones sold) started not to hold the tension on my blade and was releasing. I replaced the chuck head with a Pegas and try to remember to not over tighten the blade (and have told my DH over and over not to tighten it so tight )

Thanks everybody but the true appreciation should to Steve Good and the person who created the video. I just thought it was i formative enough that it should be forwarded. One of these days I'm going to tear into both of my saws just inspect the bearings and apply a good coating of sunthetic grease. At that point, I want to measure all the bearings and sleeves to see if any of the Dewalt parts are compatible. Once done I will report my findings.

Thanks Ray, I am saving this just in case my EX will need help....So far my green ol' EX is doing well!

Barb, I did see your fliptop build and your sander. When I saw your sander, I really liked it so I thought I would make one as well. Since it sounds difficult, I think I am going to go with suggestions on this thread..... I think I am going to get the Foredom but am also inquiring about the King Arthur's Guinevere one: https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/KX11340/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA2KitBhCIARIsAPPMEhJGQxWEgl7M-WHc1lRgIpNHgOXmXKJqpDpgxfMXZjhVTMkALOlcwqMaAgpzEALw_wcB

I can attest to the Ray's statement; "Not a tough job at all if you are patient and take your time." It took me 2 or 3 hours to do mine several weeks ago. It would have been nice to have seen this video then, but the written instructions from Seyco were sufficient. And I'm not the best hand at this kind of thing.

Thx Ray, very interesting, RJ

Actually had to do this on my EX21 about six years ago.

Welcome to the Village forum from Tennessee. You might post your question in the General Scroll Sawing Section to get a better response.

Thanks for posting that Ray.. It does give some better views to what to do and expect when taking these apart. When I did my saw a few years ago I wanted to do video of it but no camera man or stand so I just did some photos and a small write up.

enjoy your new saw

Thanks for this info. I just recently built a flip top cart to house a bench grinder, turned into sanding station and my belt sander. I put the sanding mop on the left side. First time I used the flex shaft sander, on the right side, I saw movement on the left. When I turned the grinder off, the flaps of the mop were all over the workroom.. First task today is to change the grinder!!

That variation in speed is huge...thank you for pointing that out and the other info. Thanks again!

No, I have no knowledge other than seeing it in her videos.

Ray, Thank you, that is interesting....I did look at the reviews and read something about it having trouble with the motor overheating since it is 1/6 HP and the Bauer one is 3/4 HP....do you have any knowledge of that or know of anyone that does....thank you so much for pointing this out.....

Ray I have a buffer I use for auto body repairs, but I have to use two hand to hold onto that bugger. I think you must me talking about a different kind of buffer...can you turn it into a sander so you can but a mop on one side and a drum on the other?

Welcome to the Village, Jon! I don't have any suggestions for your issue but I'm sure you will get a lot of great replies soon.

I asked hubby to build me a bird feeder to fit over the rail of our deck. This is what he came up with, plus he made one with a roof. I think the birds like them!

Fabulous Barb. Very beautiful.

That is sure beautiful, Barb.

That is super fun! I am a tea drinker but it just doesn't have the ring to it..."No tea, no workee"

Bored is more like it. With the extreme temperatures outside, it is something to do.

Never anything but blown away by your pattern making skills followed by you great craftsmanship as well. Dick heppnerguy

Some awful fine cutting Kris. Beautiful pattern.

That is sure beautiful.

Beautiful job, RJ

Wow, very impressive fret work Kris!

amazing job

That is awesome Kris. Not surprising, it is the normal awesome for you. How do yo like your Seyco? I purchased, probably one of the first Seyco. I loved it but was not fond of the required magnetic covering to cover the hole in the table just so they could claim a fraction of an inch longer stroke than any other similar saw. Is that still there?

Great work not a 10 minute job.

These are two of my favorites. The floppy wood guy mostly for the reaction it got from people. Made people happy. The robin because the pattern came out in the spring and I was very happy with how it turned out. 20230629_151731.mp4

The saw in the picture is my version of Jack Metcalfe's frame saw as shown on his book on Chippendale marquetry. The saw consists of two rectangular frames made out of 3/4 baltic birch plywood (using pocket holes). Between the two frames there is a set of two bog-standard drawer slides that serve as linear bearings. One of the frames is stationary and is clamped to my workbench in my basement shop via a horizontal member that is screwed to the stationary frame. The other frame holds the blade and moves up and down. Pushing on a pedal (a short length of 2x4) brings the frame down. A lath of white oak acts as a spring to bring the frame back up. Right now I have a small piece of 1/4" plywood screwed to the horizontal member serving as the saw table. I should make a better version, but I am having too much fun playing with it as is. In this version, the throat of the frames is 26". I.e., the maximum size of the piece can be no more than 13". The frames can be made larger, of course. The blade holders are from an outfit in Barcelona that I bought a few years back when I was visiting. I think I could make equivalent holders with in my shop with some work. Tension is controlled by the big wing-nut on top of the upper holder. It is designed with marquetry in mind: i.e., to cut a few layers of thin veneers using a skinny blade. It might work for 1/4" bbp using a #3 blade, but I have not tried. Features: The blade moves strictly vertically. (For some definition of "strictly") One can use a lot or as little of the blade as one wants on each stroke One can control the speed and length of each stroke independently, which is great for tight turns Sawing goes goes surprisingly fast Quiet Vibration free Very light and easy to store as it doesn't have its own stand I feel much more in control using this saw than when using my Excalibur, even at its slowest speed. I haven't yet, but I think I could use this in my kitchen or dining room and not scare the horses. xocd