Leaderboard

Decided to try cutting acrylic and it worked out well. Although this was 3mm, A4 sheet of acrylic but it felt like cutting 6mm, you had to let the blade do the work. I used a #3 Niqua blade and had no problems with any melting that I had anticipated. So all in all quite a good experience. Not easy to photograph though as it's so reflective.

Finished cutting this Cobra for my husband. Looking for a more detailed coiled cobra but this one is "similar" to the Shelby Cobra emblem, which is ok with him. Just waiting on some more Danish oil to give it a good drink. Almost finished with the roaring bear. Making this one for a Bear guard friend of ours. He spends his summer walking out it the woods with different scientist, biologist, geologist, etc, carrying a shot gun looking for danger. In case your curious, he has not had to kill a bear, but has seen many.

My Dewalt finally got discharged. Got it home late yesterday afternoon. Today's job is remounting it on my shopmade stand. Sure happy to have it back.

I just finished this one. My first large cutting on the new Seyco saw.

While the right side of the picture recalls spring and summer, the left side depicts autumn and the coming winter. Plans and drawing belongs to me.

Mighty fine cutting, but snakes are not for me!

I finished my scroll project of my agility dog, Baxter, that recently passed away. @Charlie E kindly made a pattern of him for me to cut. (Keep reading below the pictures) This is actually the first pattern I have ever cut...all my others have been free-hand. Anyway, I ordered an Aspen board and it was warped so after cutting it, it warped even more. I decided to glue it to a 3/4 inch backer board to try to flatten it. I decided to use a fairly thin coat of epoxy and put a large weight on it. I forgot, however, that the floor has become uneven in my shop due to the subzero (-11) weather and the bench was no longer level. So when I came back to see it 6 hrs later it slid off the backer and was stuck solid: I decided to take it to my 14 inch bandsaw and resaw the back off (it barely fit). After I was done I discovered I had a second picture of Baxter...a bit different/artsy/tye-dyed? from the original because the aspen wood was about 1/32 thick (or less) over the epoxy and shadows came through. Well, I made a new backer for the original piece and used titebond glue instead and pin nails. The aspen wood is now 3/8+ thickness with a 3/4" backer. So now I have 2 pictures of Baxter! @Charlie E thank you again for creating the pattern for me

I asked hubby to build me a bird feeder to fit over the rail of our deck. This is what he came up with, plus he made one with a roof. I think the birds like them!

My first multi-wood intarsia piece is done. Finished with 4 coats of shellac. Frame is scrap wood, oak??? Finished with one coat of black Osmo.

I just got a renewal notice and I'm having second thoughts about renewing. I like the magazine but there is just not enough new ideas to make it worth the cost. It would probably make me want to renew if they announced that they were going to make all the patterns available for download. That would be great.

They had all kinds of excuses for the delay. Holidays, needed parts and had to order...etc. ..etc.

They did.

A jewelry box for my only granddaughter. This project called for woodworking techniques I have never done before. From the hand cut blind dove tails to controlling chip-out on the curly maple - it has challenged (and frustrated) me beyond measure. The drawers are divided and flocked in black. The bottom drawer has a ring storage area. It is FINALLY done and I will be giving it to her at her birthday party today. It has a hidden drawer that is accessed by a sliding panel on the back. I am ready to get back to scrolling now.

That turned out really well Brenda.

A few days ago Rob posted his work of a Steve good pattern that I have had in my to do box for some time...Rob did such a good job he inspired me to get off my duff and cut it....I was so inspired that i did 3 copies , each just a little bigger than the first,,,,cut from 3/8 cherry with a 1/8 BB backer painted black....used #3 FDUR blades......Thanks to Steve and Rob for getting me going.....Comments welcome..

awesome work

What part sounded difficult? Don't forget, I am in Canada and in Winnipeg (at least) it seems very challenging to find what you folks in the States seem to be able to get at the corner store.

https://intarsia.com/products/flex-drum-sander This will fit a 5/8 shaft of a grinder.

Very nice cutting....

I agree, that looks beautiful.

Making a lamp for a contest at our wood turning club. The lamp was made on the lathe but the shade was made with the scroll saw.

Back of December 26,2013, Dan posted his attempt at a Carved Fretwork Cat that he had wanted to try for many years after reading an Article in Scroll Saw Woodworking and Crafts, Fall 2008 by Dick Miraglia. Well, his very successful attempt got me thinking about trying to do another carved fretwork piece. I had recently obtained an Eagle head illustration from a stock vector website called Freepik.com that I converted into a scrollable pattern, and I thought it would make a good subject for a carved piece. I was able to use Inkscape to convert the illustration into a scrollable pattern. I made two versions of the pattern, one for printing on 11x17 inch paper and one for printing on Suber B 13x19 inch paper. I’ll post them in Pattern Exchange for anyone who may be interested. As I most frequently create my Art Panels in very thin materials, I do not have a stock of thick - full one inch or greater – materials available. And, since working with a thick panel is well outside my comfort zone, I was reluctant to order some expensive material to experiment with. However, in Lowes, I found some Live Edge rough sawn full 6/4 x >13” x 6’ - unmarked, but I think - Southern Yellow Pine slabs that were on-sale. Unfortunately, the piece I purchased was too wide to fit through my planer or I would have reduced the thickness to a 5/4 or a little less. Because the slab width was greater than 13 inches, I was able to use the larger pattern for this project. Although the pattern is an easy cut, the cutting itself was VERY slow. The SYP is very hard in the heartwood areas, while quite soft elsewhere. I used Pegs #5 MTG R and Pegas #5 skip tooth blades to do most of the cutting. The skip tooth blade seemed to work better of the two. In some small areas I used a Pegas #3 MGT R blade. For cutting such thick wood, it was imperative the blade be perfectly perpendicular to the table, so the cut-out material would slip out easily. In many of the complicated shaped areas the cut-outs were done in sections to make removal easier. In order to lower the bacground I had to use AC glue to attach additional pieces of wood on each side flush to the top surface in order to maintain the base of my Trim router level while lowering the area beyond the image out to the edge of the panel. I had to replace the standard Trim router base with a much larger base to span the lowered area that was wider than half the width of the standard base. I used a 1” diameter Surface Planing Router Bit, in multiple passes, to lower the area about 3/8 of an inch. My only gripe about doing this kind of project is the sawdust mess the router makes when lowering the background area. My router table has dust collection, but the handheld Trim router does not. My shop s small and the sawdust get all over everything - poor me . I decided that, since the cutting was to be an unframed plaque, I would not make it square and I chose to make large radius rounded corners. So it was necesssary to cut the perimeter after all the fretwork and lowering was completed, but before carving. To do so, I had to attach a second pattern to the reverse side so I could flip the panel over to cut the perimeter in order to follow the cut line. After the perimeter cut was completed I used my bench mounted belt sander to smooth the perimeter to the line and then rounded the perimeter top edge on my Router Table using 1/4" round-over router bit. Carving was done using a combination of large sculpturing bits mounted in my Guinivere Wand which take off a lot of material fast but leaves very rough surfaces, and small sculptuing bits mounted in my Dremel Wand for the more detailed work. This required finishing by power sanding using my sanding mop and my small detail sander followed by a lot of hand sanding. The carved image was hand painted with Artist Acrylics, using the original illustration as a guide, and the completed plaque was protected with multiple applications of s spray Clear Gloss Acrylic Coating. This is the original illustration. This is my finished Plque. Sorry for the long narative. Comments and critiques always welcome.

I had a nice, puttering day in the shop today. Worked on the glue up of my first multi-wood intarsia piece. I have reduced the pattern for this. Pattern designer is Janette Square. Used Poplar, Rainbow Poplar, Sapelle, Maple for the plant. Searched for wood to make a frame. Have that cut and glued. While all that was going on, did a fun little project. Thank you Steve Good! Frog is cut from Poplar and glued to a pine cookie left from a Christmas tree a number of years ago. Still needs the finish. Then I started another project. The wood is Cherry. Pattern by H Botas. What you are seeing is the back of it. Using #1 spiral blades. Thought of you @FrankEV while I was cutting. Turned the speed down on the saw and tried to keep a light touch.

Made this for my granddaughter's 3rd birthday. First time cutting acrylic sheet. Piece of cake! Reading about problems cutting it had me terrified beforehand!

I like reading the details.

Very nice Kevin, RJ

That turned out great!....Love the frame as well!

Here is the frog. Two coats of shellac as the finish. The succulent now is posted in Bragging Rights.

Bored is more like it. With the extreme temperatures outside, it is something to do.

Variety is the spice of life! Very nice work you did there on your projects Barb, Thank you for showing, Bob

My first wooden ring work. Stone: Facet cut stem emerald. Wood: Olive-tree.

Love the idea. I lost the battle with our squirrels here. Would love to have the birds on the railing, Very cool.

I could ship a few to you!!

Nice idea for the bird feeder. Squirrels on my property would love them.

Nice. I bet the birds would like them more if you installed a little heater! LOL

My favorite would be this chess set I made for my son in law. I also made one for my nephew. Mahogany and Birch.

Lovely tribute and very thoughtful. Condolences on their loss. Marg

Very nice work

Those are a great idea and well done. I know they’re appreciated.

Delivered amidst smiles.

Thank you both! I do remember you both stating not to glue your parts in previous dust collection threads, so I followed your advice and did not glue anything. Mostly used those rubber connecters that just are tightened up with a screw. I do think I may have used gorilla tape in one place that was a bit loose. In a couple of places I used Woodcraft dust collection couplings to hold things together (especially on my collection box). https://www.woodcraft.com/products/4-pieces-2-1-2-clear-dust-collection-network-coupling-woodriver-dust-connection?gclid=Cj0KCQiAhc-sBhCEARIsAOVwHuTpPgMf72hkPLK4ucHil0D86zH_8iezWunp8ZH1FTPtOgK5u1W1jNIaAga2EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Thanks again for all your great suggestions!

The saw in the picture is my version of Jack Metcalfe's frame saw as shown on his book on Chippendale marquetry. The saw consists of two rectangular frames made out of 3/4 baltic birch plywood (using pocket holes). Between the two frames there is a set of two bog-standard drawer slides that serve as linear bearings. One of the frames is stationary and is clamped to my workbench in my basement shop via a horizontal member that is screwed to the stationary frame. The other frame holds the blade and moves up and down. Pushing on a pedal (a short length of 2x4) brings the frame down. A lath of white oak acts as a spring to bring the frame back up. Right now I have a small piece of 1/4" plywood screwed to the horizontal member serving as the saw table. I should make a better version, but I am having too much fun playing with it as is. In this version, the throat of the frames is 26". I.e., the maximum size of the piece can be no more than 13". The frames can be made larger, of course. The blade holders are from an outfit in Barcelona that I bought a few years back when I was visiting. I think I could make equivalent holders with in my shop with some work. Tension is controlled by the big wing-nut on top of the upper holder. It is designed with marquetry in mind: i.e., to cut a few layers of thin veneers using a skinny blade. It might work for 1/4" bbp using a #3 blade, but I have not tried. Features: The blade moves strictly vertically. (For some definition of "strictly") One can use a lot or as little of the blade as one wants on each stroke One can control the speed and length of each stroke independently, which is great for tight turns Sawing goes goes surprisingly fast Quiet Vibration free Very light and easy to store as it doesn't have its own stand I feel much more in control using this saw than when using my Excalibur, even at its slowest speed. I haven't yet, but I think I could use this in my kitchen or dining room and not scare the horses. xocd

Looks pretty darn cool. I would love to see a video myself.

I always just lean mine against whatever happens to be at hand. lol.

Just saw an ad stating that SSW&C would not be on newsstands beginning with the summer issue. Wish them all the luck publishing in today's market for magazines.