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I was cleaning and organizing the shop, came across a tote marked "scroll". Opened it and there was but a few items in there. One of them, the very first scroll project I did, I think it was 7th grade shop class, 1973. I would have been 13 years old (ugh). The project is pretty basic, I tried to use an extremely dull chisel for the state outlines but it didn't go so well. The teacher had me use a dremel like rotary fir the rest. Anyhow, after that project I didn't return to the scroll saw until about 1990. I was pleased to see how much I've progressed over the years. So...where did everyone get their start and do you still have that "first" project? Chris

Today I finished a pattern of this little angel that I thought was too cute to not cut. This is the second project I cut this month and it looks like I just might be finally spending some time in my shop other than Christmas presents. I hope you like this as much as I did when I saw the pattern. This is also the first oval frame I have ever attempted. A little bit of a struggle but best of all a good learning experience Dick heppnerguy

Hi all, sorry for my long absence but been looking after my 97yr old dad and he's not been too good lately. I finally managed to get out into the workshop again and here are two items I've just finished. There is a lighthouse key rack made from 1/2" Baltic Birch ply and finished with sanding sealer then two coats of lacquer. The other item is a coaster made from 4mm birch ply also finished with sanding sealer and two coats of lacquer. Hope you like them.

Hi everyone, I made this plaque for a very close friend who was celebrating his 60th birthday. Marc has this unbeliveable Black Lab who doesn't know he's a dog, EVERYBODY loves COAL. When I came up with this layout, I chose a nice piece of Cherry to mount the lettering on and I didn't have real dark wood, so I had to apply several light coats of rattle can Black on the dog pattern. I read somewhere on the internet that if you bake poplar wood slowly in the oven, that it would turn very dark, so I told Ann Marie I was going to try that...NOT IN HER OVEN. The person who wrote the article must have been a bachelor. This is my version of a 1983 song by "THE POLICE" Thanks for looking. I have posted this on 2 other scroll saw forums, I'm sorry if this is your second view. Rick

I have made a few of these. The body is poplar, and the darker woods are mystery wood from my cutoff collection that I got mostly from a friend who makes sewing machine bases for antique sewing machines.

I do not wax my scrollsaws because I have a clear plexiglass auxiliary top on it. If it does get sticky for lack of a better word. I will hit it with Johnson's paste wax which is what I use on my tablesaw and jointer beds. I even use that on the ways on my lathe to keep the tailstock and banjo sliding freely. You want to be careful what wax you use because silicone will interfere with finishing products thus no car waxes. Kevin takes it to extremes. Never waxed any tools bases. I ask why. He says so sawdust falls to the floor. You must have magic sawdust Kevin. Wax or no wax it lands on the table and the legs and a simple brush with shop vac and cleaned. You have to vac the floor anyway. get back to doing scrolling.

I'm with the others, put a blade in it, try to cut a small piece of wood. If it's smooth, buy it. Ray has given a "we don't carry parts" for the older saws, for many years now. Usually the older Exs with tilting table were black, and purple came in with the new tilting arm, but this one must have been made close to that transition point. For $100, I would take a chance. I suspect the clamps are interchangeable with the more recent saws, and that is the part that is most likely to strip out on you. If you're concerned, you can call Ray, but I don't think I would sweat it for that price. Consider it disposable.

The purple saw is one of the better ones they made.. I think they were discontinued somewhere around 2000 - 2005 ish. I really don't know a lot about them other than back in the day the talk on the forums was these are one of the better made Excalibur saws. I'd say if it works it's probably worth $100 but I'm not sure if parts are still available for this one or not.. I'm thinking not.. but some parts I also think are shared with the saw they still make today, like the front rocker arms etc.. What to look for? I would hold the lower arm still with one hand and then use the other to move the upper arm up / down etc to get a feel for how much slop is in the bearings.. There should be some a fair amount but not like 1/4 inch or so.. Take a blade with and a piece of scrap and try running the saw and listen for knocking / grinding sounds as if a bad bearing or something.. I wish I could remember the model number to these.. I think maybe EX-21E or EX-30E.. If you get the model number you probably could download a manual. I think these are not variable speed as i think it's speed change is done via a belt pulley system sort of like a drill press. Maybe check condition of the belt if it's not a big process to access it. I think they might take a rope type belt but not 100% sure on that. That might be the hard part to find should you ever need one.

When you are cutting with a new blade and at the fastest possible cutting rate without burning the wood, as the blade dulls you will begin seeing burning of the edges of the cut. You can slow the blade speed a little or wax the blade sides to stop this burning, or change to a new sharp blade. When this happens and you haven't cut very far, you can apply wax to the sides of the blade and it won't burn the wood any more, until it wears off this wax coating, but keep in mind that the blade is getting more dull. When you can no longer prevent the blade from burning at the desired cutting speed even by adding wax you have 2 choices, slow the cutting speed or replace the blade. Adding the wax to the blade lets you keep using the blade much longer before it's so dull that replacement becomes necessary. I rarely replace broken blades. I usually get tired of nursing blades because they have become too dull. Blades are cheap, at about $0.25 US per blade. Isn't the quality of your project worth changing dull blades before they become so dull that they reduce the quality of your project? With an old candle or small piece of paraffin in hand while cutting, waxing the blade frequently becomes 2nd nature and you will wax the blade every few inches of cut. It does make a difference. How fussy you are about burn marks will help decide how often you wax the blade. I wax the table of my saws and also brush it onto the gears and ways of my table saws using an old toothbrush. The surface forms a dry crust that sawdust won't stick to, but the wax will continue lubricating the saw for a very long time. I use Johnsons or Butcher's Paste Wax on the tables frequently when cutting, to keep the work sliding easily. When it doesn't slide easily I can make errors, so I add a new coat of wax frequently. Don't ever use Automotive waxes in your woodshop. Most contain silicone and silicone on your wood projects will resist stain and finishes, leaving what is called "Fish Eyes" in your finishing steps where the stain or finish will refuse to adhere to the project wood wherever the Silicone is. Silicone containing products are banned from my woodshop and have been for over 50 years. They are kept in my garage almost 250 ft from my woodshop. They make cars shine very nicely, but are a death sentence to woodworking finishes. Keep your auto waxes far separated from your woodworking. Charley

I always wax, sometimes 2X a day when I was doing shows. I also apply candle or paraffin wax to the running blade frequently. It improves my accuracy and makes cutting much easier. Blades don't heat up from friction as fast either, so last longer. Charley

Been wanting to make chess pieces for years. Finally started. Chose Bocote for my first set

Logging Train wood-art pic just completed cutting on my scroll saw today.

Hello my name is Don I'm 73 , and not even a newbie yet. I have been retire 9 years. My new adventure is getting into scroll sawing, as I picked up a free saw. Since retiring my other hobbies are, fishing rod building, saving vintage Mitchell fishing reels, airbrushing fishing tackle. This summer I got into small engine repair. I'm from Philadelphia, PA.

I finally decided to make one to hang on my music wall. I think it is my favorite even though I have cut one before. Waylon is out of poplar, the frame is walnut. I had some old square fence nails so I added them to the frame joints.

A lot of you may or may not have noticed that I have not been on line for some time and also have not posted any of my work. This is because I did not post any of my Christmas projects and have had almost continual company or work to catch up on outside and have not been in my shop very much. We have a great neighbor who has a birthday coming up on Feb 3rd and I wanted to make her something that seems to interest her a lot. In her home she has a long haired cow that she took a photo of and had it enlarged and framed and hanging on the wall of their home. In fact she has two different ones of this type of cow. So I ran across this pattern and cut it for her. Dick heppnerguy

Well after the Flu it got cold. 2nd coldest since living in Mississippi that I remember and a bunch of icy roads. So what do you do? You go out to the cold shop that has frozen water bottles in it and make a birdhouse . I did turn on my sunflower heater on the propane tank. i saw a photo of this birdhouse so I thought I would make one.

Eagle looks stunning.

I am taking mine with me. I told everyone to just dig a bigger hole.

I have a EX-16 and my deck is so scuffed up so I added a magnetic sheet on top. I wax the top to keep it slick, a little Mcguiers does the trick and keeps it slick

Yeah it is overkill but nothing wrong with taking pride in your investment of tools, cars and houses etc. and taking care of them either.. may be a waste of energy but I can say that whoever ends up with my tools when I'm gone they'll know they've been well cared for by looking at them.

Kevin look at the photos of the blades from FD and tell me they are not straight. You keep saying they are canted. Some of them are but the ones with a alternate tooth are straight. They are called something different but I tell you for sure they are not stamped like you are thinking. . When you alternate the teeth they have to cut straight. what way would they cant? Maybe they use a different machine than pegas yes I mixed up who sells FD blades. What is his name here. that took over for Mike. Remember I have not been here for quite some time. All my correspondence with Mike was on an older computer and I never carried it over to the last 2 computers. I use to talk to Mike almost every week. He liked to just talk and we both hated a guy if you remember William Young. Talk about guy that thought he knew everything and he was a tester for Pegas blades when they first came out. Bill got himself banned from just about every site he went on. he started his own site and you had to register through him if he wanted you. Do not know if he is still alive or not. I can tell you stories of how he tried to ruin Mike and his business because of the Pegas blade. Maybe that is the reason I hate that blade. Take it for what it is worth. I have tried back in the day probably every blade that hit the market. Steebar Corp use to sell a blade called tiger blades or something like that. They were a German blade and they were a great blade too. I am sure I still have some of those. Those precision ground blades are super sharp and the teeth are thinner. Again made differently than a Penguin silver reverse blade. I know Wooden Teddy Bear took over Mike's site but someone is selling FD blades. Help me out here. Kevin this link may help you in your explanation of straighter cutting. The difference between milling and precision ground blades. Why one blade so call cuts straighter while one wanders. When comparing blades you then need to compare apples to apples. PG or milled blades. https://northernnester.com/scroll-saw-blade-types/

Wax on Wax off. Mr. Miyagi. Sorry, couldn't resist

Agree. A good buy if it works. Availability of parts is a question.

There is no need to wax the Pegas Scroll Saw.

Welcome to the forum. Looks like a fun hobby you have.. With a scroll saw you should be able to make your own fishing lures.

Welcome to the Village Don. My dad was an avid fisherman, walleye were his favorite but he wouldn't turn his nose up at a nice size perch. There are a great group of friendly helpful people here. Check out each forum for lots of great information. Any question just ask we are always to help a fellow scroller.

Hmm, I thought all FD blades were stamped instead of ground. Now I went through some of what I thought were the more popular ones and none of them say anything about being ground or stamped.. how does one know which is which? What ones are ground? "Other Manufactures" state whether they are ground or stamped and that was a big selling point for those particular blades.. Never seen FD ever say anything either way.. so just assumed they was all stamped. I've used most all the styles of FD blades way back when and I don't recall using any that I didn't have to put a slight angle to my board as I feed into the blade.. I used to solely use FD blades until one day I found Olsen's PGT baldes.. I used those on and off for several years as I didn't care for having to feed the wood at a slight angle, doesn't bother me nearly as much these days as it did trying to learn and get good as scroll sawing. I used FD blades as that was the best I could find for certain types of projects.. Now I can stay on the line no matter what blade I use as I guess I've mastered the sawing portion.. I now pretty much only use Pegas MGT blades.. and now and then use FD-SR or FD-UR mainly because I have several that need used up and certain types of projects they work better for than the Pegas.. But still.. just curious what blades are PG? this is the first time I've read anything about the FD PG blade.

I'd say stain the whole thing. You'll be the only one that knows. homebru

Okay so you need the cushion boots.. should be 3 of them and the one that is rattling is probably the front lower one? Stole this picture from a ebay listing. You might search eBay for your Delta Model 40-640. there is this person here that is selling parts from one.. you might try messaging him to see if he has these parts. I circled them in the red circles. Probably could make something too.

Nice job on a difficult pattern. Waylon is my favorite OUTLAW. Thanks for sharing. Rick

Turned out great!

Very nice, I am a animal person. I love dogs, cats, horses, etc. Have to add this one to my list. Dang I got a long list............LOL

There is a little rubber o-ring on those inserts.. You shouldn't use a petroleum type grease as it will make the o-ring swell up and also deteriorate. Might take a year or two but it will damage it. I use a dielectric grease or similar.. and you are very correct.. these inserts should be removed or at least looked at to make sure they spin freely.

I got my saw, a Hegner, used from a pawn shop; and found that I had a blade slipping problem. After troubleshooting it, I found that the tip of my clamp screw had a 'spinny' part just like the Excalibur's, but mine did not spin. I pulled it out with some work (it didn't spin because it was stuck) and cleaned things up real well and gave it a bit of white lithium grease - a super tiny bit as there is very little space in the screw and it will squirt back out and be a mess. That seems to have solved most of my problems. Maybe the set screws don't need replaced as much as just cleared/cleaned out and a touch of lube to keep them spinning free.

The level works also. I only have that 24 inch clamp so the 4 foot level works fine.

This is interesting, never thought to use my straight edge clamp, always used a 4 foot level. Thanks for sharing! Chris

I've used these for many years. They have their limitations and I'm considering alternatives that are a little more functional, but these have worked for me. I attach them to a strip of plywood that has a factory edge. https://www.grizzly.com/products/woodstock-board-straighteners/d3119

I did a couple quick cuts as I have been having a issue with my vision. The Mickey and Goofy I cut last year and just got around to glueing them up. The USMC orn. is for hubby and the cowboy/cowgirl........just because.

I added a new beauty to the olive tree. Stone: Facet cut root ruby. Ring Wood: Olive tree. Ring Box: Oak tree.

While the right side of the picture recalls spring and summer, the left side depicts autumn and the coming winter. Plans and drawing belongs to me.

A woman in town asked me if I could/would try to finish up a project her husband started but passed away to cancer before he could finish it. I finally got it finished this evening. Here are the before and after pic. I did not make the wheel just finish it of best I could. Paint it and cut out the boat parts to put on it. I cut pieces and filled in the open spots on the back to make look better. And thanks to grampa Paul for doing the boat pattern for me greatly appreciated. Todd

A friend requested this picture.

The idea was to combine Valentine's Day symbols ("Love you" sign, heart, rose, letter) and this is what came out Love letter pattern

I would have to say my favorite scroll saw project was the first I ever made which was May of this past year. I made it as a Christmas present for my Daughter and her Husband. It is a silhouette of her and her husband at their wedding. The wedding was late in the evening and she loves the Moonlight and trees. Later in August I decided to enter it and another piece (a tree) I had done into a Juried Wood Art show. I ended up winning a couple of ribbons. I was so supprise by the ribbons that I wanted to surprise her and her husband with it. Now she new I entered the Tree piece but she had no idea that I had even made her the Moon piece. So when she and her husband came to the show they at first saw my Tree piece and then they both saw the one I made of them and they said "Wow, I wonder who did that one, it is really pretty (and then a pause)...HEY, that is us!" The judge happened to be there and got a good laugh as well. Anyway, I ended up wrapping it up and gave it to them this past Christmas.

Halloween haunted house I made for my Voodoo Lounge bar. Steam locomotive pic I made just because I like old trains. Horses I made for my wife.

I made this as a wedding present for a very special cousin, he and Lauren are great people, but they have no attachment to any organized religion, so I honored that. It started out as a Steve Good pattern, it was the first time I tried to do some carving and I was pretty happy with it. The base is maple and the HERAT and lettering is Sapele. Thanks for looking.

Yes. I waxed mine as soon as I got it and as needed, ever since. It's easy and only takes a few minutes. I don't have concerns with moisture. I just like the feel of the wood gliding over the waxed table on my scroll saw. More so than even on my other steel & cast iron topped tools (table saw, band saw, etc).

I've said many times that I do wax my saw tables depending on how much use at least once a month and a couple times a year I also wax the whole saw stand and all.. The fine sawdust falls completely to the floor instead of sticking the the machine and stands.. much easier to take the vac and clean up the shop a lot better plus it wards off any corrosion that might try to set in.. Keeps the equipment looking good and well cared for even though I run the heck outta my saws.. they all look new still..

I think all woodworking machines need waxing if for no other reason than to ward off corrosion. On the aluminum, I think it stalls the oxidation that forms on aluminum. As for the Pegas, cars come painted too but we still wax them.

I do on my EX just plain floor wax, put some on with a rag let it dry and buff it. The wood slide right off the saw after. LOL