Leaderboard

This time the requested rose color was bright blue, I painted the leaves teal green. The Rose pattern is from Steve Good. The small butterfly shape is from an old Patrick Spielman book, "Scroll Saw Handbook with patterns" and the small heart I found in the font "webdings" (Capital Y ) The letter font is Z003 with the "outline font effect" turned on. The wood is 3/4" Poplar, FD Polar #! blades throughout, Two coats of shellac after painting.

Finished another intarsia piece. I am so glad that patterns are just suggestions!!! This pattern came from the SSWC #71. This is mostly poplar. The eye has some walnut & two other mystery woods. The lips are two separate mystery woods. Finished with one coat of shellac then topped with the beeswax butter! The Poplar is from the stuff I bought this spring and had cupped. The tips of the moon are on the cupped edge, but I thought it worked with the moon. I really liked the grey markings in the wood.

Hey Everyone! In this fun scroll saw project video, we make an amazing and unique Bigfoot Diorama! This Steve Good design uses various thicknesses of material to give the project a unique 3D design! Keep in mind, I made the entire project from a basic piece of 3/4 inch pine shelving board. I believe in the legendary creature, do you? Hope you all like the video! #ArtisanPirate

On this one I embedded a magnet on the left side so I could add the arrow. This would be helpful if you would be playing someone who is absent so they know it is their move.

very nice

Mighty fine cutting.

Yes that was me. Just for curiosity I will put an ammeter on both to see if there is a significant difference. I am more inclined to think that it is line noise created my the speed controllers. Unfortunately my O scope is not working so can't look at that.

Yep it’s led , so probably not much, the odd thing is I have a very old 226 and it works fine with the festool.

try plugging the saw and the vac Separately into the foot switch. that way both get ajolt but arnt really using yhe same switchThat might do it

I did put the light that I have on the saw in the circuit and it didn’t completely solve the problem but I think it did help. I had not thought about both the scroll saw and the vac both being variable speed, thanks I will see if I can experiment with different speeds on the vac and come up with a sweet spot

What also maybe happening is a conflict with the DC of the saw. Both tools are working on speed controllers. The vac has built in speed controller which maybe effecting the startup but it all has to do with current draw. Maybe the guy from Festool did not realize the saw is DC. Most times those vacs are used with portable tools and stationary tools that are AC. Maybe play with the vac speed controller and you can sync it up to tool.

If I'm not mistaken, Frank uploaded a similar pattern to the Village library.

I think @Rolf mentioned something similar with his Festool and plugging his Hawk into it.. The Hawk didn't have enough power draw to turn on the vac. I think he ended up plugging the vac into his footswitch for the scroll saw so it comes on that way.. I may be wrong but I thought it was Rolf that mentioned this. I have my vac hooked up to the foot switch. I used a three way plug to plug the saw, vac, and hour meter to plug into the footswitch so when I hit the foot paddle it turns on the saw, vac and keeps track of saw run time.

Ok good, I got time. LOL It is the sanding that is stopping me so far. It seems that you need some artistic ability to sand the pieces into the best shape to make it look nice. I'll get there, eventually.

Some wall art husband and I made from the floating shelves, to the wood turnings, to the scroll sawed pieces.

How fast you can make a project only really matters in two scenarios. 1. The customer is paying by the hour and you already told them it would take 2 hours. 2. The wife comes into the shop and tells you the Smith’s are coming over tonight and we need to give them a Christmas gift. BEEN THERE!

Scrolling is a hobby for me. I don't worry about how long it takes to cut a pattern. In fact, if Icut it too fast, then I have to start another one, and that's ok too. My metric of importance is how much I enjoyed that project. BTW, you should not ache after cutting. Check your posture while at the saw. Your saw and stool should be at an ergonomically good height.

A few years ago I bought a King 16" mostly for camping as it is quite a bit lighter than the Delta P-20. My Daughter has expressed interest in the P-20 as it is the saw I had her "help" on some projects we did together when she was younger and now she wants to start scrolling on her own. She really wants the P-20 as it's the saw she used to watch me for hours cutting on and she got her first taste on scrolling on. So I'll be giving her the P-20 around August. I know over the long haul the 16" isn't going to accommodate the projects I have planned. Which brings me to my dilemma. I know I'm going to replace the Delta with a Pegas. I'm just stuck with weather get the 21" or 30"? My practical side tells me that the 21" is plenty, and a main stay for scrollsaws (at least that's my thought). But my inner child wants the 30" just for the cool factor. My question is from a mechanical point of view, is the 30" as sound a tool as the 21". Will it stand the test of time and run as smooth and reliable as the 21"? I know some of you here on the village come from a background that would know way better than me if the 30" is as good as the 21" from a mechanical stand point. So, help me understand! Chris

Unfortunately I never have had a foot switch,