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This was a special order from a man whose father and step-mother claimed the zebra as their spirit animal of sorts. Both of these people died and the man that ordered it wants to memorialize his dad and step-mom.

The F-5 is an agile , highly maneuverable, reliable supersonic fighter, combining advanced aerodynamic design, engine performance and low operating costs. More than 2,600 were built by Northrop Grumman and under co-production and licensing agreements with Canada, the Republic of China, the Republic of Korea, Spain and Switzerland.

While I wasn't necessarily an "avid" Toby Keith fan, I did like several of his songs, especially one of his last, "Don't Let The Old Man In." I was really moved by what Stephen Colbert had to say about Toby after he died. If you'd like to see it I put the link in the first comment. Party in peace, Toby.

A few years ago I bought a King 16" mostly for camping as it is quite a bit lighter than the Delta P-20. My Daughter has expressed interest in the P-20 as it is the saw I had her "help" on some projects we did together when she was younger and now she wants to start scrolling on her own. She really wants the P-20 as it's the saw she used to watch me for hours cutting on and she got her first taste on scrolling on. So I'll be giving her the P-20 around August. I know over the long haul the 16" isn't going to accommodate the projects I have planned. Which brings me to my dilemma. I know I'm going to replace the Delta with a Pegas. I'm just stuck with weather get the 21" or 30"? My practical side tells me that the 21" is plenty, and a main stay for scrollsaws (at least that's my thought). But my inner child wants the 30" just for the cool factor. My question is from a mechanical point of view, is the 30" as sound a tool as the 21". Will it stand the test of time and run as smooth and reliable as the 21"? I know some of you here on the village come from a background that would know way better than me if the 30" is as good as the 21" from a mechanical stand point. So, help me understand! Chris

Finished another intarsia piece. I am so glad that patterns are just suggestions!!! This pattern came from the SSWC #71. This is mostly poplar. The eye has some walnut & two other mystery woods. The lips are two separate mystery woods. Finished with one coat of shellac then topped with the beeswax butter! The Poplar is from the stuff I bought this spring and had cupped. The tips of the moon are on the cupped edge, but I thought it worked with the moon. I really liked the grey markings in the wood.

This time the requested rose color was bright blue, I painted the leaves teal green. The Rose pattern is from Steve Good. The small butterfly shape is from an old Patrick Spielman book, "Scroll Saw Handbook with patterns" and the small heart I found in the font "webdings" (Capital Y ) The letter font is Z003 with the "outline font effect" turned on. The wood is 3/4" Poplar, FD Polar #! blades throughout, Two coats of shellac after painting.

If you like your King 16 inch why not the King 30 inch? Here is Canada the 30 inch just went on sale for same price as the 21 inch. These are Canadian Prices so they are way more than US$. Here in Canada the cost of a Pegas 30 inch is $1,874 so even with the new Pegas Blade Holders (if you think you want them) it is way cheaper. Food for thought, Steve Good posted awhile ago that 96% of his patterns could be cut on a 16inch and it would be possible to cut the rest with multiple holes. If I was in the US I would look seriously at a Seyco 21 or 24. I believe that Charles Dearing who does a lot of large portraits and pictures uses a Seyco. Quote from my presentation on Scroll Saws BUY THE BEST AND CRY ONLY ONCE

If you’re going to buy the Pegas anyway, Go Big or Go Home!

One thing to consider is the wait time between ordering and receiving your saw. When I ordered my 21” Pegas, it took about three or for months before it shipped.

It is a day I never thought would happen but after 32 years I am retiring my old RBI vs26 and purchased a new saw. It was having a few random motor problems and I really wanted the chair legs as I have had a recent neck surgery which makes the new height much more comfortable. I have only ran RBI saws over the years so I can only compare the old to the new as I have never ran a different brand of saw. I will start by saying when I made my first cut with the new saw I felt like a newbie as it does have a different feel to it. Things I liked are it was packed incredibly well, love the chair height legs which by the way included the adjustable height legs. I believe the rear tension adjustment is superior on the new saw but having said that the one on my old saw never gave any trouble. My old saw kind of hammers anymore but the smoothness of both saws is about the same. I know most people will not agree with me on this but I actually prefer the old barrel style blade holder as opposed to the new style but will probably get used to it. Small things I will mention the bolt holes on the front plate for the leg set did not all align and about 4 of them had to be slightly drilled to line up , it came with 16 bolts for leg set, it needs 26 , not a big deal just wanted to mention it. Lord’s Prayer is last project I did with old saw , it holds a special place in my heart as I started that project when I received a cancer diagnosis 4 months ago and finished it recently after my surgery which removed the cancer. Not sure what I am doing with old saw but not sure I can part with it.

I think your question was mechanical. As a dealer for Pegas, most of the sales are the 21". I sold one 30" to Rodney here on the forum. I find very few problems with either size.

Thanks for your kind words and encouragement. One thing i have been thinking about is when i do a craft show this fall is making a Christmas ornament that i can give away to cancer patients . i dont know exactly what that would look like but i would like to be a encouragement

Wayne, beautiful job on the Lord's Prayer. That looks like a challenging scroll saw project. Congratulations on the new saw. I am sure you will learn to love it as much as you do the old one. Best wishes for you in dealing with cancer and neck surgery. Know that you are not alone in either of those.

I once cut a 30” door topper project on a 21” saw so cutting big can be done. But as others said, if space and money are no object then go for cool.

I gotta say, I'm leaning toward the 30" like I said, the coolness factor and the idea of being able to cut some "large" projects is kinda appealing.

Hi Chris: Go For it. 30" - I dare you Fab4

Thanks , i am actually a retired farmer so my woodshop is actually in a corner of a pole barn so i am fortunate to have enough space for a saw with the chair legs . i just retired in September so i still have some farm equipment in building and will probably stay that way to maintain things on farm. Maybe at some point i can post pictures of my shop.

I don't think with this "link style arm" saw that a smaller or larger saw has any difference.. at least not like a longer arm saw is.. Even the long arm saw as far as wear and tear on the mechanics of the machine is really not much difference I don't think.. so long as they are built right with weighted counterbalance to minimize vibrations etc. That being said, I guess if you have the extra space that a 30 inch saw would take and you don't plan to take it with you on camping trips etc.. then go for it..

Congrats on the new saw!! My first Hawk ( not my first scroll saw ) was a round barrel clamp style saw.. They take a bit to get the hang of them but I also really liked that saw.. Kinda wish I had not sold it.. But I still have the Hawk Ultra 226VS and the new BM26 I bought a few years ago. I mainly use the new saw but the other saws have a place and somewhat special use in my shop.. sometimes I get tired of cutting with the Hawks and will switch things up and use the Excalibur or Hegner.. both have a slight different style of cutting.. Like the wide legs but I bet that takes up as much room as two saws do, LOL.. That is one thing about these 26" saws.. they are massive and weigh well over 100 pounds too.. Beautiful work on that Lord's Prayer.. hope you show some more of your projects you do with the new saw.

cut into inch and a quarter thick maple burl slab. Cut with Flying Dutchman and Olson blades on my 21" Seyco.

You did not mention Cost as a concern or extra space it will take up. So go big.

I did a little practice with spirals for the first time a few days ago and it wasn't much fun attaching the blades, finding the correct tension and trying to guide them where I was hoping they would travel. Today for my second attempt I tried out the Olson "flat end" #2 41TPI on a pattern of my action hero Clint. Getting the blades in the holders was a little better only to bend them trying to fit them through the drilled entry holes. Then it was still hit & miss getting the right tension and me trying to cut straight and curved lines and of course braking a few blades along the way. It was a little nerve racking cutting the close together curves holding down little sections wanting to bounce around. There was a ton of fuzzies to "carefully" remove and I'm glad it's done and I didn't destroy it. I decided to forget about using spirals and concentrate on practicing with regular blades so I can get better with them instead.

I had hoped this piece of Cedar was the right wood but did not turn out like I had hoped.....Working on a 2nd one on Adler wood...I really liked Charlie's pattern and wanted to do it justice..Thanks for looking. Steve,

Have a couple of family members who are big Kentucky basketball fans. I made these logos to attach to one of my team spirit frames covered with wildcat fabric. These are approximately 3" wide. Two layers to get all the color margins as close as possible.

I have two bandsaws...A 15" Jet for mainly resaw/ripping and a10" Rikon for small stuff. Bandsaws can be one of the most frustrating tools in a shop. While Alex Snodgrass makes it sound easy, sometimes not so easy. A used saw could be great or require new rubber wheels, alignment, guides, etc. If you have some experience with a bandsaw and are handy with machines, then used is great. Personally, I am at a point where I want to use a machine and not spend a lot of time fixing it.

Hey Everyone! In this fun scroll saw project video, we make an amazing and unique Bigfoot Diorama! This Steve Good design uses various thicknesses of material to give the project a unique 3D design! Keep in mind, I made the entire project from a basic piece of 3/4 inch pine shelving board. I believe in the legendary creature, do you? Hope you all like the video! #ArtisanPirate

Ther are die hard straight blade users and die-hard Spiral blade users. And some that use both. I am one that uses both but prefer, for most of my intricate patterns I like to do, to use spirals. They alow me to complete a pattern faster because I don't have to spin the work and stop at tight corners as much. Like everything, if you want to use spiral blades you have to learn how to use them. Part of that includes; clamping, knowing witch way to cut, what size drill holes to use, how to get nice straight or long smooth curved lines, and, yes, how to deal with the fuzzies. All of which I have been able to do fairly succesfully. That being said, I agree, spirals are not for everyone. Yes you should concentrate on perfecting your cutting skills using straight blades if that is how you are most comfortable. If in the future you decide to try spirals again, do so with an open mind and a willingness to learn how, and dedicate a fair amount of time to the learning curve. From the sound of your frustrations I'm guessing patience is not neccessarily your strong suit. Let me say that your cutting of Clint isn't bad, but could probably have been a little less ragged, but I'm not familiar with the pattern, so I don't know if some of that is the pattern itself. However, I would be interested if you cut the same image with straigth blades how much better or worse it would look. Hope you do not take offence to any of this. Just trying to be of some help.

Beautiful Charlie.

i like that, that would be something i would be interested in

that is correct, i have tried top feeding since getting the saw but so far it is a skill i need more practice at. i can see on a large project where it is hard to see underneath top feeding would be a real advantage

Terrific Charlie.

I really appreciate all the input here, as @NC Scroller and @don in brooklin on suggested is one of my big thoughts, that is with a little creativity big projects can be cut on smaller saws. I don't plan to pullnthe trigger until August, but its good to confirm my thinking that the mechanical quality is consistent thru the sizes. You've all given my plenty to consider. thanks, Chris

Very fine work Charlie. I still enjoy Toby’s songs

Can't remember where I got the pattern for this.. but this is one that I made several years ago. Might be here in the pattern section.. if not I'm sure one of the designers here would make a pattern.

Great job...as always... My theme song! I think it all the time but it is not always working.

When i called Festool he told me 1 amp was required to turn on the extractor. thanks for checking , that is very interesting

So, this thread got me to wondering and I got out my tools to measure amps. The Hegner is rated at 2.53 Amps and I measured 0.90 amps at both high and low speeds. The Festool CT26 measured 4.8 amps high speed and 1.9 amps low speed. I have a circular fluorescent magnifier which measured 0.2 amps. I was unable to find anything about what current is required to turn the dust extractor on. Even with the low current draw of my Hegner, I have not encountered a problem.

A cool machine for a cool guy! Buy Canadian!!

Go for thr 30" will come in handy, do that instead of saying I SHOULD HAVE.

Very nice work barb!

If you don’t you’ll always wonder what if. Go for it.

Rolf, just an idea--put an AM radio near the machine tuned to a static part of the band (if such exists in your area) and listen for changes in the static. Not nearly as good as seeing the noise, but you might get lucky that way.

Very cool! I too like the gray. Isn’t it fun when you’re sanding/forming a piece how it changes the look of the wood? I’m currently working on the beagle in the basket, and I had to re-make the basket because the grain in the cedar was “all over the place” when I started contouring it. To me, the contouring of the wood is a fun challenge. Again, I think that is a cool and awesome piece!! I’ll have to put it on my to do list.

Nice work!

The kid in me wants to believe, but I sadly suspect he's a myth. Who knows.

That is sure a beautiful project.

Some wall art husband and I made from the floating shelves, to the wood turnings, to the scroll sawed pieces.

With the help of @grampa, I finally finished the Corgi portrait that he made from a picture I posted. Thanks so much. I used a #2 and #3 spiral blade to cut this one out. Just need to put some danish oil on and it's ready for its new home.

Thanks Ralph. I don't want to infringe on anyone's rights. Someone local had asked if someone could make one like that for them, so it would be on commission.

Hello my name is Don I'm 73 , and not even a newbie yet. I have been retire 9 years. My new adventure is getting into scroll sawing, as I picked up a free saw. Since retiring my other hobbies are, fishing rod building, saving vintage Mitchell fishing reels, airbrushing fishing tackle. This summer I got into small engine repair. I'm from Philadelphia, PA.