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  1. jimmyG

    jimmyG

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  2. barb.j.enders

    barb.j.enders

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  3. TAIrving

    TAIrving

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  4. Hawk

    Hawk

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/24/2024 in all areas

  1. jimmyG

    I'm Such A Spazzzz

    I'm guilty of being one of those people who over think things to death... That being said, I kept looking at the latest project of the stick surfer meeting up with the shark. I just didn't like the bite out of the surf board on the side so I had to cut it again without it. Should have thought about that before I glued the little guy to the board though... A razor blade got him removed with very little sanding. With the board re-cut I think it is more of a believable image... Holding off on the glue until I'm "really" sure!
    8 points
  2. barb.j.enders

    Name Puzzle

    This was a custom order. My daughter's friend was having a baby shower and my daughter is broke. I offered time and materials (cause that's what we do). I gave her a choice of fonts. Thanks @don in brooklin on for the Berlin font. This is what she chose. It is Wondrus from DaFont. I think it might become a fav. This is cut from 1/2" ply with a #7 blade. Acrylic paint with Walrus Oil as a top coat.
    7 points
  3. I developed this Roaring Bear Pattern from an Image I found on-line. I invite you to visit my post in Pattern Making for a description of my experiment in creating this pattern. Also, you will note that my pattern is kind of backwards to the way most patterns result in creating a scrolled image. Since the bear is predominately Black, the cut-outs exposing the background are light colors as if sunlight was reflecting off the Bear’s fur. The pattern was sized to fit a 12” by 12” inch panel. I chose to cut the image in a 5/32” thick Walnut Solid Core Ply using Pegas #2/0 Spiral blades. The backer is 1/4” thick BB Ply. Most of the coloring was done with Artist Acrylic Air Brush Paints with a few highlights done by brush. The assembled panel was protected with multiple spray coats of a Clear Gloss Acrylic. I made my usual 1 3/4” wide rail Poplar Frame that I stained and finished with multiple coats of Wipe-On Poly. I ‘m looking forward to your comments and critiques on this experiment in pattern making and my…possibly poor…choice of using Walnut for the cut panel.
    5 points
  4. munzieb

    PBY Revisit

    Found a picture of a PBY I really liked. I did one in 2020 but I like this one better. 1/8" BBPW on 1/4" backer. Shellac and Gloss Lacquer.
    3 points
  5. wagner1958

    New saw problem

    I just purchased a new RBI bm26 saw. I have a festool vac that I have had attached to my 1992 year RBI which has been working fine. When I attached the festool to my new saw the vac will shut off when I run it up to about 7 or 8 on the speed control and then will turn back on when I bump it up to full speed. The lower speed ranges seem to work fine also. The saw plugged into the festool continues to run it’s just the vac that shuts off. I also plugged my old saw back into the vac and tried all different speed ranges and it seems to work fine. I am at a loss what I need to try next
    2 points
  6. Wichman

    Straight line cuts

    This is a project I'm currently working on, a spice rack for the girlfriend. These are about 10" long, 1/4" Elm, the shelves were stacked 3 high, the ends 2 high, all cut with FD Polar #1 (just didn't want to change blades). They are not perfect, but will touch up pretty quick with the stationary belt sander. I will post pictures of the finished project as soon as I get it done.
    2 points
  7. preprius

    battery holder

    Rechargeable batteries have a max number of cycles that should be charged. So keeping them equally cycled there is a technique. So a method of doing this is keep them in first in to first out stack. After recharging them put the battery in the top of the stack. Pull the out the bottom cell to be used next. No reason to count recharge cycles. The series of pictures show the stack in a different way. Heads is the round peg, tails is the square block. Take the next battery to be used next to the head, and move the head peg counter-clockwise to the next cell. When a freshly charge battery is ready, place it next to the tail and move the tail counter clockwise. My son wanted a first in first out stack. So I came up with this last night. I used scrap wood for a prototype. Shapes and sizes are up to the artist or customer. Me. Mark Eason
    2 points
  8. Bill WIlson

    Album covers

    What's an album?
    2 points
  9. As my ranking says i'm a nooby scroller so if there are any beginner tips I should know please tell me because i'm just a kid. I also made a present for my friend it's the green bay packers logo me and my uncle made it because it's easy it's just a g with green behind it. I love scrolling it's so fun!
    1 point
  10. Ron Johnson

    F-5 Skoshi Tiger

    The F-5 is an agile , highly maneuverable, reliable supersonic fighter, combining advanced aerodynamic design, engine performance and low operating costs. More than 2,600 were built by Northrop Grumman and under co-production and licensing agreements with Canada, the Republic of China, the Republic of Korea, Spain and Switzerland.
    1 point
  11. Great job looks really good.
    1 point
  12. I love your bear ....As you mentioned, I am not sure about the background either. Perhaps the grain of the frame and the grain of the background are distracting me...not sure. Maybe more of a lighter boring colored background. Here is a painting of a horse that I thought looked good with the background. If you had a bigger background, and since you airbrush very well, you could do a moon so that is what is lighting his fir like this picture I found on etsy but maybe you don't really want the silhouette look... Not sure if this helps. marie
    1 point
  13. MarieC

    PBY Revisit

    Great cutting. I know all those straight lines are hard to cut. Wonderful design!
    1 point
  14. MarieC

    I'm Such A Spazzzz

    I really like it! I wouldn't change a thing now.
    1 point
  15. rjweb

    I'm Such A Spazzzz

    That looks great, RJ
    1 point
  16. Rolf

    New saw problem

    I have the line splitter that Sycamore67 posted. A true test would be to have an in line ammeter. I don't have those resources since I retired.
    1 point
  17. Scrolling Steve

    PBY Revisit

    That is really nice!
    1 point
  18. wombatie

    Name Puzzle

    What a lovely idea. And yes it is what we do. The recipient will love it. Marg
    1 point
  19. dgman

    Gonna Need A Bigger Board!

    Very nice Jimmy! You are coming along very nicely!
    1 point
  20. dgman

    Name Puzzle

    Very nice Barb, I’m sure it will be cherished!
    1 point
  21. Sycamore67

    New saw problem

    My meter will measure below an amp but the line splitter also has a 10x area.
    1 point
  22. daveww1

    Another Roaring Bear

    awesome job
    1 point
  23. very nice
    1 point
  24. I did a little practice with spirals for the first time a few days ago and it wasn't much fun attaching the blades, finding the correct tension and trying to guide them where I was hoping they would travel. Today for my second attempt I tried out the Olson "flat end" #2 41TPI on a pattern of my action hero Clint. Getting the blades in the holders was a little better only to bend them trying to fit them through the drilled entry holes. Then it was still hit & miss getting the right tension and me trying to cut straight and curved lines and of course braking a few blades along the way. It was a little nerve racking cutting the close together curves holding down little sections wanting to bounce around. There was a ton of fuzzies to "carefully" remove and I'm glad it's done and I didn't destroy it. I decided to forget about using spirals and concentrate on practicing with regular blades so I can get better with them instead.
    1 point
  25. For the sake of simplicity, let's start with the basics. There are essentially 3 main brand names for scroll saw blades that are the most used, at least by the folks on this forum. Those would be Pegas, Flying Dutchman and Olson. Pegas blades, as mentioned, are available from Denny @ Art Crafters. The other 2 are available from Wooden Teddy Bear (among other places). For starters, that will get you going. As for which brand to choose, right now, as a beginner, I don't think it really matters all that much. There really isn't a wrong choice. They all will do the job. Until you get a feel for what blades you want to use, pick a brand and run with it for a while. Many of us have tried a lot of different ones and have a large variety on hand, most of which we don't really use. So take Denny up on his offer. He will point you in the right direction and help you choose what size & type of blade to get you started. And you can always come back here for more advice. Search the forum. Questions about what blade to use come up all the time and there are many threads on the topic. Good luck and let us know how you are doing.
    1 point
  26. 1 point
  27. I think the wood is perfect. It gives it a "sunset" look for the background. Nice cut!
    1 point
  28. JTTHECLOCKMAN

    Bandsaw

    My opinion is NO!!!! Just an opinion. Now I am sure they probably did some upgrades from years ago but my brother bought one of those 9" or 10" bench top saws. He knew I am a woodworker so he asked me to tune it because the blade was wondering and could not control. Well have to tell you with the plastic parts and those plastic tires that they used it was no wonder the blade would wander. I tried my best to tune it but no luck. He did take it back and got his money back. He does not do much woodworking and if he needs something done I usually do it. Again my opinion and it is worth what you paid for it. In my eyes I would never buy a table top bandsaw That is why I am staying out of that other thread.
    1 point
  29. Charlie E

    Toby Keith

    While I wasn't necessarily an "avid" Toby Keith fan, I did like several of his songs, especially one of his last, "Don't Let The Old Man In." I was really moved by what Stephen Colbert had to say about Toby after he died. If you'd like to see it I put the link in the first comment. Party in peace, Toby.
    1 point
  30. JessL

    Corgi Portrait done

    With the help of @grampa, I finally finished the Corgi portrait that he made from a picture I posted. Thanks so much. I used a #2 and #3 spiral blade to cut this one out. Just need to put some danish oil on and it's ready for its new home.
    1 point
  31. Applying Patterns Transfer Method Drawing - One of the most direct ways of putting a pattern to your workpiece is simply draw your pattern onto the wood. This is a good method for simple patterns or to rough out a shape. However, it gets difficult for complex patterns and is limited by your drawing ability. Carbon Paper - Carbon paper is an easy method to transfer your pattern directly to the wood. Place your carbon paper between the pattern and the workpiece, and trace your pattern. The pressure from your pencil will transfer the carbon from the carbon paper to your workpiece. Graphite - If you don't have carbon paper, you can make your own. Flip over your pattern. With a soft pencil, lay down a thick layer of pencil. Once you have a nice thick layer, flip your pattern over and retrace your pattern onto the wood. The graphite from your pencil will transfer to your workpiece. Heat- This method requires a photocopy or a laser print. Make sure you flip your pattern in your imaging software so it prints backwards. Using a household iron will melt the toner on the paper and transfer it to the wood. Turn your iron up to the highest setting. Tape your pattern face down on the wood and iron the back of the pattern. Add firm pressure and go slowly. It will take time to transfer the wood, so check your work periodically. They also make special tools for using this transfer method. Acetone - This method requires a photocopy or a laser print. Make sure you flip your pattern in your imaging software so it prints backwards. The acetone will soften the toner and transfer it to the wood. Soak a paper town and apply the acetone to the back of your pattern. When the paper turns translucent, use the back of a spoon to rub the pattern into the wood. Warning: Acetone is highly flammable and has noxious fumes. Use safely in a well-ventilated area and away from flame. Inkjet - This method requires an inkjet printer. Make sure you flip your pattern in your imaging software so it prints backwards. Take a sheet of labels and peel off all of the labels. What's left behind is a waxy surface. When you print our pattern, the ink from your inkjet printer will stay on the surface and will remain wet for quite a while. Carefully place your label sheet face down onto your wood and wipe the back of the pattern with a paper towel to transfer the wet ink to the wood. This method can also be used with butcher paper. Cut the butcher paper to fit your printer and print it onto the waxy surface. Using Substrates The most common way scrollers attach patterns to their workpiece is by using a substrate. A substrate is a material put directly onto the wood, then the pattern is glued to the substrate. This method protects the wood from the glue and often makes pattern removal easier. Depending on the substrate, it may also offer lubrication for the blade to minimize burn marks. Blue Painter's Tape (Substrate) - The most common substrate scrollers use is blue painter's tape. Painter's tape has low tack which makes pattern removal easy. The wax on the tape also acts as a lubricant for the blade. A good quality painter's tape is recommended as their cheap counterparts rip too easily and may leave behind a sticky residue. Contact Paper (Substrate) - Contact paper are used as shelf liners and can be found in the kitchen area of your favorite store. Contact paper comes in large rolls, which is wide enough to accommodate most projects. Simply roll out what you need and apply the contact paper to your workpiece. Glad Press'n Seal (Substrate) -Glad Press'n Seal has a surprisingly strong bond when attached to a workpiece. Tear off enough to fit your workpiece. With the back of a credit card, press the Press'n Seal into the wood and trim off the excess. Since Glad Press'n Seal does not use any glues, there is no chance of leaving behind a sticky residue. PVA Glue (Attach) - You can use a basic white glue to attach your pattern to the substrate. Simply spread the glue onto the back of the pattern, and place it onto the substrate. Smooth out any air bubbles and wait at least an hour for the glue to dry. Glue Stick (Attach) - If PVA glue is too messy, you can use a glue stick. Some glue sticks have a colorant added. When the glue is wet, the glue shows purple but will dry clear. This type of glue stick makes it easy to know where you've applied glue. The drying time is much quicker; 15-20 minutes or less. Rubber Cement (Attach) - Rubber cement will add a really strong bond. To use, apply a thin coat of rubber cement to the back of your pattern and a thin layer to the back of your substrate. Allow each to dry until it becomes tacky like a Post It Note. Then carefully apply the pattern to the substrate. When the two layers of rubber cement meet, it will create a permanent bond. Full Sheet Label (Attach) - Here is a super-easy way to add your pattern to your substrate. Simply print your pattern on a full sheet label. Peel off the back of the label and attach to your substrate. Full sheet labels can get costly, but what you lose in expense, you make up for in convenience. Spray Adhesive (Attach) - The most common way for scrollers to glue a pattern is by using a spray adhesive. There are 2 ways to do this. The main way is to spray the back of the pattern and wait for it to dry so it's tacky like a Post It Note. Once dry, you attach it to the substrate. For a more permanent bond, spray both the back of the pattern and the substrate. Wait for each to dry so it's tacky like a Post It Note, then carefully attach the pattern to the substrate. Once the two glue surfaces meet, it will create a permanent bond. Directly To The Wood The method that is growing in popularity is gluing the pattern directly to the wood. Using a spray adhesive, spray the back of the pattern (don't spray the wood). When the glue has dried so it's tacky like a Post It Note, apply the pattern to the workpiece. This method is growing in popularity because it requires no additional materials. Pattern removal is easy and will practically fall off with a little mineral spirits. (See Pattern Removal below.) Removing Patterns Peeling - This is the most obvious way of removing your pattern. This works especially well when using a substrate as the pattern and the substrate peel off together. If getting the edge of your fingernail under the pattern is difficult, use a Xacto blade to help it along. Be especially careful when removing patterns from your workpiece. Peeling may add additional stress to the already delicate fretwork and we don't want to break off any fragile pieces. Sanding - You can also sand the pattern off. This method works great when using an image transfer where the pattern is transferred directly to the wood. You can also sand away paper patterns. But be careful. The friction of the sandpaper may soften some of the glue and work the glue into the wood fibers. Just take it slow and don't spend too much time in any one place. Take extra care when sanding delicate fretwork. The action of the sander may add extra stress to the delicate fretwork. You may choose to use a less aggressive sander like a vibrating mouse sander or simply sand it by hand. You can use a sanding pad for additional support and keep it from sliding around while you work. Heat Gun - A heat gun will soften up the glue and make pattern removal much easier. A high-intensity heat gun used for stripping paint and wallpaper works best. You might be able to use a hairdryer. Just put it on its highest setting and work one section at a time. Mineral Spirits - A popular way of removing patterns is using Mineral Spirits. Mineral Spirits is a solvent, so it will soften and dissolve the glue. You can buy odorless mineral spirits, so it's great for indoor use. Just make sure you protect your work surface. Mineral spirits work especially well when you attach your pattern directly to the wood. Just wet the pattern. Once it turns translucent, the pattern practically falls off on its own. Just peel it away and you're good as new. Mineral spirits is also good for removing any sticky residue left behind from tape or glue. Just apply and wipe away. For easy application, add it to a spray bottle. That way it's ready to go whenever you are. Simply spray the back of the pattern and remove. ---------- So, what did I forget? Do you use a different technique I didn't cover here? Let us know below.
    1 point
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