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Hi everybody, I started scrolling a few years ago when my husband gave me a Century saw from Harbor Freight. Unfortunately I never really practiced and just took on the occasional project. I was frustrated because I felt clumsy and didn't know what kinds of projects to do. I am still very much a newbie. I made Christmas ornaments for some friends at work, and they turned out pretty well. I way overworked them in finishing - sanding them to death, agonizing over stains - but overall I was pleased. Since then I've done some other small things with mixed results. I cut a bear with pine trees and it came out so well I'm afraid to paint or stain it in case I mess it up I'm looking forward to learning from everyone here!

I hope you like it. I used scrollsaw, carving tools and sanding tools for this work.

A modified Steve Good pattern. I used 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood and 3/8" Baltic Birch plywood-stained Walnut for the backing. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using mostly Pegas #1 MGT blades, but Pegas #0 Spiral blades around the Elk and Evergreens. A light sanding with a Mac Mop, dipped in diluted Shellac and two coats spray Lacquer Clear Satin with sanding between coats. Comments welcome.

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For SIL. 1/4 BB on 1/8 BB. Medium Watco and rattle can blue.

I tweaked a great pattern by Sam Custodio. I absolutely love good finger style guitar picking and have tried many times to attain the skill but it's just not in the cards for me. I listened to acoustic guitar music through my headphones while cutting this and it was so therapeutic. The wood is 1/2" Sycamore and the backer was a thin plywood bottom from a repurposed dresser drawer. "♫ Who draws the crowd and plays so loud? Baby it's the guitar man. ♫

I do this as well. However, I think that what is happening is that in the first clamping the blade isn't straight in the clamps and when I flip the tension lever it straightens the blade, and when I remove the tension there is a little slack. I have experimented with this and found that if I was extremly careful to get the blade exactly right there was liitle or no slack.

I was going to bring that up. Ipe is very hard to saw even with a bandsaw.

I used the same design on the chess table and the table top model. The drawer slides all the way through so there is access from both sides. I made a small difference in the pieces.

Hey Everyone! In this fun scroll saw project video, we make a rustic Turtle On A Log Scene, I use 1/2 inch plywood for the portrait with a 1/4 inch backer board. The design comes from the Ultimate Book Of Scroll Saw Patterns By Fox Chapel Publishing. Hope you all like the video! #ArtisanPirate

I was hoping Someone could point me in the right direction. All of a sudden today my Excalibur is not cutting right. See image 1.png and you can see how I cannot stay on the line in a simple curve. And look at the out-cut and how crooked it is. My cuts are not 90 degrees. This is walnut and I tried a #7 and #5 FD UR blade. This started after cutting 3 other toys with no problem. Now. I checked the blade being 90 degrees to the table and it is on 4 sides. (L, R, F, B) (2.png) I noticed that the rocker arm under the table from the pegas chuck had some slop in it, so I tightened the 3 bolts. (3.png ) I think I over-tightened as that slowed the blade strokes way down so I loosened them back a little, there is very little play on the bottom bar when there is no tension. When I tension it is rock solid. During the cut, I threw the angle on it, (4.png )and the top of the piece to the top of the chuck is a perfect 90. So I am thinking something is off below. But you can see by the piece how off it is. What's weird is, the first 3 pieces I cut today were fine, then the next thing I knew I could not stay on the line and weird stuff was happening. I just swapped out the upper and lower thumbscrews to my 'new' backups. I also checked the set screw that it was not worn and scuffed it. It is almost as if the blade is twisting on the bottom. Not sure though. Any suggestions on where else to look, and how tight/ loose should that bottom rocker arm be?

I have several sanders. Three of them are random orbit sanders. I Hitachi and one two Bauer. The Hitachi is by far and away the best but it has a weird shaped dust port. The Bauers sanders have a round dust port. They only get used for sanding boards that are too large for my Shopsmith belt sander.

Beautiful work!

I love all sorts of music, from opera, heavy metal, country,pop, basically all 60's 70's 80's 90's and today. Pasted my love of music on to my daughters. Off the see Tom Jones on the 28th with one of my daughters. Music is the food of life. Marg

You are in the right place Stephanie. I have been scrolling for a few years, a member here for a little over 2 years and I learn something almost every day. Like I said, you are in the right place. People here are great. Jerry

My guess is that you are pushing too hard especially for that thick of wood. Cutting thick is a slow process, have to let the blade to the work. It gets boring some times.

I hate that you had to leave your guitar. I had two guitars, one that I sold and one that I gave to a nephew, that I so wish I had back. I play some guitar but I'm not a "guitarist." My best memories of playing are from Guatemala. I used to go to an orphanage there to work for a week a couple of times a year. I learned a lot of Hispanic worship music and would sit in the evenings with some of the children from the home and sing. Priceless. I do think that the next best thing to being a gifted musician though is having a deep appreciation for good music. I've known many people who just don't get it and to me that's like missing one of your senses. Sad.

As always, i enjoy your videos. I am with you, I'm ready or spring the day after Christmas. I was born and raised in Colorado. When I was a kid I wished Mom and Dan lived in California or Florida. Jerry

I have both, and I much prefer the mop. I find the mac mops to be to agressive for my projects.

Yes, I have tried hard and softer woods. 1200 >> 400 janka. 3/4" thick. The 1/2 was not as bad, but still it was harder to control. It just feels like the blade is unresponsive. I will be cutting a circle clockwise, with the waste wood to the right and the blade just keeps heading off to the right, then it will 'snap' back into place, and of course over compensate. The Pegas modified #10 seems to not do this as bad as I assume thickness of the blade. But the FD UR #7, 5, and 3 are unresponsive now. I think what I might try since I have a rebuild kit coming is to crank the lower chuck REALLY tight and see if that stops it. I am trying to narrow things down to the bottom chuck, and/or the st/thumb screws as being the issue. I am not hearing and rattles, bangs, pops, or crackles from the saw. Speeds seem to be normal, so the rocker arms are not too loose, nor too tight.