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I hope you like it. I used scrollsaw, carving tools and sanding tools for this work.

Just started this beautiful Leopard in the tree, a Russ Beard pattern, doing a double stack, on 3mm (1/8”) Birch Ply, using a 0 Niqua Pin Less Blade.

A modified Steve Good pattern. I used 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood and 3/8" Baltic Birch plywood-stained Walnut for the backing. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using mostly Pegas #1 MGT blades, but Pegas #0 Spiral blades around the Elk and Evergreens. A light sanding with a Mac Mop, dipped in diluted Shellac and two coats spray Lacquer Clear Satin with sanding between coats. Comments welcome.

Hey Everyone! In this fun scroll saw project video, we make a rustic Turtle On A Log Scene, I use 1/2 inch plywood for the portrait with a 1/4 inch backer board. The design comes from the Ultimate Book Of Scroll Saw Patterns By Fox Chapel Publishing. Hope you all like the video! #ArtisanPirate

This is a pattern from Steve Good.

March is a big month! Daylight Savings is March 10. Saint Patrick's Day is March 17th. March Madness also starts on March 17th. The first day of spring is March 19th. And lastly, Easter is March 31st! Whew! So instead of picking one to celebrate, we'll open it up to whatever March means to you. Is it green beer? Digging in the garden? Basketball and nachos? Or are they brightly dyed eggs? Post your March scroll saw projects here. It'll be fun to see what you come up with to celebrate March.

I have been scroll sawing for 40 years and I still consider myself a beginner! Dick

Interesting development. My schedule didn't allow me any shop time for 3 days and when I went down today to try to solve the vibration it was all but gone, all the issues I was having. I can only speculate that @kmmcrafts and @TAIrving are on to something that after moving the saw it needed time to "settle " into its new position. Well, I'm just glad it's back to normal. Thanks everyone for the help. Chris

Some of my Easter-themed work from the past.

Considering that this is a year old saw and I keep it clean. I use my air hose to blow off any dust. I also have a top vac that takes most of the dust away. It would seem odd for this type of failure, but it is chinese quality. I am trying to not by chinese on expensive items. I thought it was a Taiwan model. I could not imagine it is the Pegas chuck, as they are only a year old too, and I do not over tighten things, I do not slam things. Hopefully your hunch is correct on the set/thumb screw. I ordered a set of each from Seyco, so I will drop those in as soon as they arrive. But for them to let loose so quick seems odd. 3rd piece fine... 4th piece+ wacko. I would think that a set/thumb screw failure would be a slow process of wearing. Interesting, that Seyco support never replied back to me, this was one reason I did not consider buying their 24 inch. I like the big table on the saw, and that would have been a selling point for me. But to not reply, seemed odd. I found the original chucks that came with the Excal yesterday. If the set/thumb attempt on it's own does not work, then I will switch to the Excal chucks. They have almost zero hours on them. So that'll show if it is a chuck failure or not. Of course I am having buyers remorse as soon as I push the purchase button on the Pegas 30". But I have been working OT hours, so I had the money already.

Here's our highlights reel for our Valentine's Day Scroll Saw Challenge. Enjoy!

Ok, I had my 16" King running quite good, vibration was almost none existent, passed the Nickle test with flying colors. Moved it to another bench, as solid as the previous, and now I can't get it to pass the nickle test even in the lower speeds. So I sat there trying everything I could think of and still theres enough vibration to tick off a person (lol). So I'm trying to understand what adjustments I can make, how they affect the saw, like rotating the motor, what exactly does that adjust? I honestly don't remember. Would upgrading the chuck heads help? maybe bolting it to the bench? The vibration isn't real bad, the nickle will stay on it's edge but has a small amount of movement, not enough to knock it over but movement none the less. Having read thru as many of the posts dealing with vibration I'm at wits end on how to eliminate vibration, my Delta P-20 runs as calm as a still lake at all speeds am I'm expecting the King to do the same, am I barking up a dead tree on that? Anyhow, a litle venting here, thanks for listening (lol) but I'll keep tinkering with it trying to get vibration free.

The F-16 Fighimg Falcon is a compact, multi-role fighter aircraft. It is highly maneuverable and has proven itself in air-to-air combat and air-to-surface attack. It provides a relatively low-cost, performance weapon system for the United States and allied nations.

No. I set the lever back (yes, I know tensioned position) to insert the top of the blade, thread the bttom of the blade through the hole, and place the top of the blade in the top of the chuck. I have the lever back so I can see the top of the thumb/set screw. I tighten the top of the blade, I then pull the lever forward and tighten the bottom of the blade, I then push the lever back to tension. I run it for a few seconds, lever forward, loosen the top and pull up on the blade to take up any slack that occurred in the first run, re-tighten, set the lever back to tensioned. What I am saying is before I tension after the 2nd repositioning there is no flop. After I tension, run the saw, and untension there is way MORE flop. Check my blade prep video further back which shows the whole process. I do it right.

Easter Pysanky Eggs created by me prior to starting scrollwork. I did not learn the traditional Ukrainian designs and colors so I created my own. Have a Happy Easter. Dick Mira

Do those set/thumb screws from the Ex fit the pegas? For some reason I thought they were a different diameter/thread/pitch.

Yeah, I have had issues a couple times about getting a response back from Seyco.. I believe Ray has partially retired or is going to be soon. His son ( I think I read ) Mike is going to be taking over.. I sure don't get replies back like I did several years ago. Took 3 months to get a reply back about a part for my Seyco scroll saw dust extractor.. they did say that they switch to a new computer website or something and my email got lost in the old system. He apologized but never offered any kind of discount on the parts I needed and just didn't sit right with me.. Plus I had already replaced the whole vacuum anyway because I wasn't getting anywhere with Seyco. As for the Pegas chucks.. they are great chucks however that's not to say that I haven't seen several topics in the past where people were having issues with them holding tension.. don't know if it was user error or a failure in the chucks.. but I've seen it from several folks over the last few years. You might try taking the set / thumb screws from the original EX chucks and try them in the Pegas ones.. or I suppose you could wait until the new ones arrive too. Also consider swapping the original back to the saw to see if it still happens.. could rule out the chucks or a issue with the saw itself.

I'll add this on my Pegas 30" purchase. They want $130+ shipping for their table. I recently got a US General service cart for my 1x20 belt/ 5' disc sander and my portable table saw. It's a roller with a drawer and shelf. I got it for $99. When Harbor Freight has that offer again, I will buy one for the Pegas. I already measured. Change the length of a couple cabinet screws and I am good on the fit and height, now I am more flexible on my shop since I am in my garage.

Well, I would take it apart and inspect the bearings and sleeves to see what you can find. As for the bearings and sleeve parts.. I believe the rocker arm parts are all the same on these so you might price out bearings and sleeves for each brand of machine including DeWalt and see who has the best price. The easier way though is to buy the assembly from probably Seyco. Do note though.. the aluminum block that these parts mount inside the tube are different on the China made saw. They used different size square tubing to make the arm tubes. So if you buy the whole assembly with the aluminum block you'll have to remove the assemblies from the block and mount them to your existing blocks. Your saw isn't that old and the table doesn't look like the paint is all worn off. I'm more inclined to think your set / thumb screw or your chucks themselves are the culprit. But I'm not there to visually see what is happening and video is hard to go off of sometimes. I didn't think the saw noise was horrible in the video to be something major but then audio on video is deceiving too sometimes. Maybe pull the three allen screws off the plate at the back of the saw and take a peek at the rear pivot bearings. The main bigger one is also a common wear point. I've seen many of these with low hours that had no grease and broke the pivot arm.. Regardless, congrats on the new Pegas.. I don't think you'll regret that decision. When business gets better for me I think I'm going to get one of those too.. Meanwhile I'll keep plugging away on this China made Excalibur that I rebuilt with all new Seyco parts.. and my 2 Hawks and Hegner.

Do you happen to know where to get replacement bearings that fit? Or would purchasing the whole rocker arms from Seyco be a better way to go? I hope it's not the drive link or the rocker arms (those would be replaced as a pair) I just pulled the trigger on a 30" Pegas from Bearwoods. I think what is happening to my Excal is more catastrophic and the cost of fixing a $360 saw, and the time to do it, might not be in my best interest. Not sure how long I would be down and I have a lot of toys and other items that need to be produced. I will try and continue to troubleshoot, and if I can fix it, then it will become my backup rig.

Yes, I scuff the the sides of the blades top and bottom. Again, everything was fine. i was 3 toys into my production, then all of a sudden, I cannot hold lines.

Well I believe the lower arm tube is welded and part of the whole saw base etc.. I may be wrong and possibly it's bolted but I'm pretty sure its welded. IF welded then you've got a major issue and unless you have a welder you might be looking to get a new saw.. I would grab the lower arm tube and try to see if it has any movement / slop.. I'd be more inclined to think the issue is the upper arm and the threads in the rod and thread block worn.. but you don't seem to have issue with the knob at the back adjusting itself like the most common telltale sign of those threads being bad. Maybe also check out the aluminum block that inserts into the tube where the rocker arms connect to make sure the screws are all tight etc.. Since you think it's the lower arm giving issues.. maybe time to take it all apart. I personally have had those bearings go bad more so than the ones inside the saw. I believe because all the sawdust falls down onto the top of all those bearings in the rocker arms etc. and absorbs all the moisture in the grease.. Maybe you got a bad bearing and sleeve in the rocker arms.

I think you'll find your problem is like Thurman said above.. you probably need to adjust the rubber feet. The feet might have been planted to the table very well on the surface of the old table / benchtop.. maybe the new or old bench has a slight low spot and one of the rubber feet is not firm to the bench now. I have a brand new shop and new concrete floor.. my saw will tell me if it has been moved even just the slightest amount because it'll pick up some extra vibration. I place my saws where they'll be permanently parked.. then adjust the feet to that particular spot.. If I move the saw even the slightest amount.. I have to readjust the feet again.

Mine (Pegas) sits on a bench also, concrete floor, solid bench. I had to adjust the levelers on the feet to stop the vibration.

I may have missed it but do you clean your blades before using them? I have found that there might be a little oil on them that could cause the slipping. When this started did you just change blades? I would remove the set screws and clean them and rough up a bit just to give it a try. With the blade going sloppy sounds like slippage. Just what I have found.

Did the legs of the saw change any. Maybe try spreading if they can. Or maybe the rubber grommets need to be moved .Is the bench top flat?

Welcome from Pennsylvania! I've been scrolling for many years but still learn things on the forum.

Only thing I really noticed was your blade isn't centered in the table cutout.. But that shouldn't cause any issues that you're having. It does look like it rubs the right side of the table every now and then. May want to loosen the 4 allen heads on the table top and center it better then tighten it back down. There was a couple noises that I heard just as you sped it up or slow it down. I'm not sure what that was I heard. Could it be the blade flexing and hitting the table edge of that hole.. seems like it's far enough away from the edge it shouldn't be hitting it until it's super loose, but doesn't look that loose in the video. LOL.

Yes, I have played with the motor and had it at the right spot. Again remember whatever happened, happened all of a sudden after cutting 3 pieces for the day.

Here's the upper again. I did a full sweep around, and tried at the end to have everything line up on the camera's crosshairs so I have 90 degrees.

I will rerecord the upper shortly. Meanwhile here is the lower and I start at 100%, I move the camera angle left and right to give you the full view.

I don't hear anything out of the ordinary. Have you checked the motor bolts? If these get loose and the motor shifts position, it can cause problems.

Did you remove the setscrew side on the clamp? Even though you crank down one side the other can be slipping. Remove setscrew and try some sandpaper to rough it up. When it gets to smooth it will loose its holding on the blade. Did you tighten the blade and run the machine. Then release tension after to see if it has excessive play.

What kind of floor is the bench sitting on? Is the bench firmly standing on the floor. i.e. no rocking of any kind? When I first set up my Hegner I had to move the stand around to find a non-bouncy floor, once I did that the vibration was minimal. Just a thought. Good Luck.

After I had already hit the submit button.

Welcome from North Carolina.

Welcome to the Village forum from Tennessee.

Thanks Keith.

Welcome, and don't forget to share those projects with us. We'd love to see them.

Welcome from Winnipeg. Just remember - the only dumb question is the unasked question.

Have you cut a different softer wood with the same thickness to see if it behaves the same.? Another thought cut the same wood in the opposite direction from the piece pictured above.

Hello Stephanie, It's a great place to be, Plenty of help and free patterns to use, By for now, Bob

Welcome to the Village Stephanie. Pull up a chair and make yourself at home. Marg

Central Indiana sending greetings. There are no secrets here, so ask away.

I love the gear heart! I have been thinking about making one of those for some time now.

Two questions: What saw do you have? What blades does it take, pin, plain, or both.

Nope, we all were beginners.

I have a Dewalt ros with variable speed control. I like it and have had no issues for five years.

New clues!!! So as I was walking out to head to work at 0400, I sat down at my scroll saw and UN-tensioned the blade since I left it on from last nights high and low speed run for the above video posts. Man, that blade went sloppy!!! usually, when I flip the lever, it will be somewhat tight at the point I had pulled up on the blade prior to tension. If it did not slip in the chuck (it seemed tight in it), then my rockers are out of alignment and that distance changes while in operation. So this tells me that either the blade slipped out of the chuck due to worn set screw, or the bottom rocker arm holding the chuck (or chuck itself) is not running parallel to the top. I am leaning to the arm, as this problem started quickly. Like I said earlier, I cut 3 pieces no problem, then boom... I could not keep on my line ever since. So assuming it could be an arm slipped or something broke, where could I look? I will take a photo when I get back from work later today. One other thing. When I would pull up on the blade after the first tension, I noticed that it does not come up as high in the chuck as it used to. This tells me there is more distance between the upper and lower chuck. About 3 mm difference. Bent, broke, slipped???

Here's a speed video of my excal. I go from all the way slow to full speed and a few in between. There is a spot in the middle where I get a little noise. Do you hear anything odd? I tried cranking the Chuck's thumb screws to see if it would cut right. Still no joy, I try cutting an oak circle and it wanders way off to the right.