Leaderboard

Then I fumbled through my closet for my clothes And found my cleanest dirty shirt. And I shaved my face and combed my hair And stumbled down the stairs to meet the day. Kris has written some awesome lyrics. I'll add the pattern to the library.

Just started this beautiful Leopard in the tree, a Russ Beard pattern, doing a double stack, on 3mm (1/8”) Birch Ply, using a 0 Niqua Pin Less Blade.

I tweaked a great pattern by Sam Custodio. I absolutely love good finger style guitar picking and have tried many times to attain the skill but it's just not in the cards for me. I listened to acoustic guitar music through my headphones while cutting this and it was so therapeutic. The wood is 1/2" Sycamore and the backer was a thin plywood bottom from a repurposed dresser drawer. "♫ Who draws the crowd and plays so loud? Baby it's the guitar man. ♫

Hey Everyone! In this fun scroll saw project video, we make a rustic Turtle On A Log Scene, I use 1/2 inch plywood for the portrait with a 1/4 inch backer board. The design comes from the Ultimate Book Of Scroll Saw Patterns By Fox Chapel Publishing. Hope you all like the video! #ArtisanPirate

Easter Pysanky Eggs created by me prior to starting scrollwork. I did not learn the traditional Ukrainian designs and colors so I created my own. Have a Happy Easter. Dick Mira

I hope you like it. I used scrollsaw, carving tools and sanding tools for this work.

The F-16 Fighimg Falcon is a compact, multi-role fighter aircraft. It is highly maneuverable and has proven itself in air-to-air combat and air-to-surface attack. It provides a relatively low-cost, performance weapon system for the United States and allied nations.

Some of my Easter-themed work from the past.

no it is added somehow. Amazing welding job some how.,

Okay. Okay I have search every word I can think to find my post about this, where I had the privilege of having my son's neighbor John Callies make me an adaptor for this problem. He did, and it took less time for him than it did for my son to go to the store and back! This is what he did, it works great. He added an extension on to the the attachment I had that did not work. This works great. Now the only problem I see is My grinder is a slow speed, but I think 1750 rpms is still too fast. I think on the other side of my "slow speed grinder". I will add a shaft in pillow bocks with a step pulley on both the grinder arbor and the shaft in the pillow blocks so I will have an option on the speeds. May never get that done. But a thought. So for now this is my solution and grateful for it. The price was right.... cost me nothing. John Callies is a great neighbor to my son. I also show this so it you have to go to a machinist to have one made like @Dave Monk did may this is a cheaper alternative to show them. I am trying to figure a way to repay John Callies. Maybe a scrolled picture of his cars or something.

A modified Steve Good pattern. I used 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood and 3/8" Baltic Birch plywood-stained Walnut for the backing. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using mostly Pegas #1 MGT blades, but Pegas #0 Spiral blades around the Elk and Evergreens. A light sanding with a Mac Mop, dipped in diluted Shellac and two coats spray Lacquer Clear Satin with sanding between coats. Comments welcome.

Great pattern, great cut, great songwriter, terrible singer! LOL He has a couple that he does that isn't too bad, but I'm not fond of his singing. I have been wanting to do a Haggard cut for a while. I remember seeing yours quite a while back and others,, just haven't decided which one I want to cut. I will have to eventually cut a Willie for my sister,, she really likes him.

No he did it from his own stock, I guess.

And it turned too fast for me same as the Guinevere sanding system.

Start with a cheap tripod and a cellphone clamp, and you are golden. Then you can work up like my videos with 2 cameras plus the one in the laptop. I can now inset myself in another video feed and also do split screens, like my workbench and scroll saw 50/50%. My cameras were left over when I was filming my Apache Helicopter radar training classes for the Army.

Duhhh, I should have gone to Steve's page. He has been a great resource to the scrolling community.

I think that is a nice little outfit but you are limited to 1/4" shaft things. It also only rated at 1/6 HP. I don't think that would hold up using mac mops and that type of sanding accessories.

This is what I originally bought. https://www.ebay.com/itm/291030753225

great job

Mighty fine pattern and cutting.

Wow! Excellent work and very creative! One of your best! Thank you for showing it to us! I love his music and his movies as well! So have you done all the "Outlaws"? I can't remember seeing Willie....

Wow! It looks great! Paul, where did you get the piece that he welded to in the first place? Was that from Grizzly?

Found the video, I knew it wasn't that long ago that it was posted so I just went page by page until I found the title.

Hopefully, people will find this thread useful four years down the line like yours Kevin. At least for the different preventive maintenance items to check. Comparing Excal chucks to the Pegas. I wish now when I was videoing that I did one on the chuck swap, so there is a clear record of how to do that. Maybe, I will do that this weekend if I have time. You have to wonder how much longer the Chinese Excal will still be sold. There are a lot out there already and many used ones coming up on the 2nd hand market. So maintenance and repair help needs to be centralized.

Yes, I had actually book marked your thread over a year ago!! I also saw your images.. Oooofffaaaa! I am not in the mood to disassemble just to add lock-tite! I am pretty sure I do not have wear issues, as I did not have to adjust it much. it has held well, but you never know. I have been searching for the video your mentioned, but no-joy. Are there any service manuals? What I found is not really a breakdown of the unit. I am surprised at how hard it is to find information. Wish there was a singular source. After getting the Pegas chucks back on, I went through things again on my unit, and hopefully fixed the 'slop' issue. I am not sure if the high speed tests made the knob loosen or not, or my going through the bearings helped.. or not... By the time I got everything done and posted, it was bed time for me. I am up at 0300, so it is early to bed. I will try some cuts today and see what's, what.

Thank you! This song would have to be in my top ten. I almost didn’t add the words but I’m really glad I did. I like that the text is “coming down.”

Awesome pattern and cutting as always. I like how you used the double backer.

The closest thing I have to any instructions is just the topic where I rebuilt my saw with the Seyco arms etc.. I did this repair prior to the rebuild but I can't remember if I did any write-up or photos on that one and i couldn't find the topic for it. I added the loc-tite again while I had the saw apart for the new link arm system and took a few pictures of what the parts look like etc.. I will say the first time I did it I didn't take the saw completely apart and it was a bugger of a job to do.. The hardest part was getting access to the jam nut on the bottom side of the rod. However I didn't take the back plastic section that is under the knob all the way off so that probably hindered my process of accessing that part. I was trying to not have to take more off than needed but in hindsight I think it'd be easier to remove whatever you have to to do the job.. It came apart a lot easier than trying to get the jam nut started back into the threads of the rod. I had to use some real long needle nose pliers to reach it from the front of the saw, LOL.. Anyway check out this rebuild thread.. Also someone recently ( I think it was Ray ) posted a Youtube video of how to rebuild a Excalibur.. You might try searching for that posting or maybe search YouTube for it. I'll try to answer any questions you might have in the process but it's been some years now that I worked on mine.

Well, I took off the Pegas, and put on the Excal chuck, same results. When I put the Pegas back on I inspected the bearings and sleeves and all looked fine. I did add some lithium grease before getting everything back together. Do you have tear-down instructions on the large knob at the back of the saw? I am thinking of adding a little lock-tight to it. I noticed with all this testing, that it loosened a little bit, which could be the source of the blade slop. I usually did not have to adjust it, other than when I did my monthly preventative maintenance. The thing is, when this issue cropped up, that was one of the first things I checked and I was only a hair over a mm difference front to back. it might be running at 100% and was enough to loosen it. I never run the saw that fast.

No. I set the lever back (yes, I know tensioned position) to insert the top of the blade, thread the bttom of the blade through the hole, and place the top of the blade in the top of the chuck. I have the lever back so I can see the top of the thumb/set screw. I tighten the top of the blade, I then pull the lever forward and tighten the bottom of the blade, I then push the lever back to tension. I run it for a few seconds, lever forward, loosen the top and pull up on the blade to take up any slack that occurred in the first run, re-tighten, set the lever back to tensioned. What I am saying is before I tension after the 2nd repositioning there is no flop. After I tension, run the saw, and untension there is way MORE flop. Check my blade prep video further back which shows the whole process. I do it right.

Wait a minute, did I miss something. You pulled the tension lever forward and the blade flopped, Of course, you released the tension. In both videos The flop is with the tension lever released. Am I correct or an I seeing it wrong? Put the blade in with that white tension lever forward, then when the blade is clamped push the tension lever back. That is how it works.

So... Not the chuck, not the set screws... I tensioned my Pegas as normal and ran at high speed for 10 seconds or so. De-tensioned and the blade flopped with a boat load of play. Okay now what? Dug out the old Excal chucks, that barely have a week of use on them, and pu them on.. let me say the difference between the two.. oh my! Excal are real POS's. Ran the same test, same result. See video. Sooo... this means something more structural, catastrophic... Mother...@#$%^&*(!!!!, son of a &^%$#%^!!! Here's what I discovered... First video was the Pegas, then I swapped to the old Excal in the 2nd video.

Wanted to make some small gift boxes and ordered some mahogony. 6 each 24 x 4" 1/8" boards (should have ordered 5-6" wide boards to better fit pattern). Stack cut 2 at a time. finish with gloss laquer. I had done the 2 center boxes with bubinga wood previously but it is getting very expensive. (twice as expensive as mahogony) Fun cutting.

Wow! Great job. I really like the young love.

The F-5 is an agile , highly maneuverable, reliable supersonic fighter, combining advanced aerodynamic design, engine performance and low operating costs. More than 2,600 were built by Northrop Grumman and under co-production and licensing agreements with Canada, the Republic of China, the Republic of Korea, Spain and Switzerland.

Very nice. Does the new piece go inside the old piece?

I still piddle with mine sporadically but I’ve been trying to learn the finger picking part of John Prine’s, How Lucky, and have spent 3 or 4 days on the first measure and still stumble through it. My niece’s husband is a gifted guitarist and says it’s just practice and not a gift. I don’t buy it.

I had hoped this piece of Cedar was the right wood but did not turn out like I had hoped.....Working on a 2nd one on Adler wood...I really liked Charlie's pattern and wanted to do it justice..Thanks for looking. Steve,

Hi everyone. Just finished these two items. Mivkey and Minnie is for my Granddaughter and the ship is for my son for his office. Both nade out of 1/4 in B/B plywood. The ship is a Steve good Pattern. Mickey and Minnie I found on the web.

Marie, The reason I asked if you bought the Bauer grinder, I received an email from harbor freight 25 % off because haven't been there in a while, ok keep us posted as what you end up with, Thx RJ

RJ, from what everyone said it just doesn't go as slow as I would like. So I am considering the the one here by Foredom: https://intarsia.com/collections/hardware/products/foredom-variable-speed-bench-lathe?variant=31902373806123 But I like the option that Dave has of putting on a chuck to change to a larger diameter shaft...so I just don't know. I know with Dave's idea it would require a machinist to make a piece, which I am not oppose to having done. It's just that it still runs at 1750 RPMs where as the Foredom goes down to 500 RPMs..... I decided that the Bauer could work that way and it can go faster (which I am not interested in) and I really like the quality of Rikon....I have a few of their tools...Would like to know your thoughts?