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I won't admit how long it took or how much wood was wasted... I won't show what the back looks like either. But it is what it is and ready for some paint. I have a lot to learn about routing the groove for the glass and project and not sure if I have the patience (or ability) to try any miter joints. All of the Youtube videos were either without instruction, just showing off their skills or explaining the details like an engineer.

Made this for a door prize for our local Meals on Wheels. Now my wife and daughter want one. 3 x $0 =$0

As a custom framer, you did a great job. Easy if opposite sides are exactly the same and the miters are 45 degrees.

This is more of a poll... For those makers who decide to frame their panels do you use: Glass ~ plexiglass ~ or just a frame???

A modified Steve Good pattern. I used 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood and 3/8" Baltic Birch plywood-stained Walnut for the backing. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using mostly Pegas #1 MGT blades, but Pegas #0 Spiral blades around the Elk and Evergreens. A light sanding with a Mac Mop, dipped in diluted Shellac and two coats spray Lacquer Clear Satin with sanding between coats. Comments welcome.

Hey Everyone! In this fun scroll saw project video, we make a rustic Turtle On A Log Scene, I use 1/2 inch plywood for the portrait with a 1/4 inch backer board. The design comes from the Ultimate Book Of Scroll Saw Patterns By Fox Chapel Publishing. Hope you all like the video! #ArtisanPirate

Frame only here, tried putting them behind glass when I first started, didn't care for the look, really took away from the wood. Glassless is much better. Chris

Wondered because it seems the scroll work would stay clean & dust free if it had a protective covering.

Looks like an outstanding job to me. I have set up a miter cut to do frames on my table saw. I first route the grove, cut the 45 angle with a jig, glue the frame, cut spline groves with another jig, then insert the glue and splines.

Frame only.

$10,000 double chop saw ( x 2 one is 3 phase) $10,000 v-nailer ( x 2) $50,000 computerized mat cutter. Ain't cheap to get started anymore. You could probably get by with much less with a small custom shop, but I cut over a million mats with that mat cutter ( Gunnar 1001 ) somehow they managed to kill it a year after I left. To avoid a mess or taking time to walk to the trash can to throw away a blade (x-acto #13 size ), I set a 5 gallon bucket at the foot of my workstation for the mat cutter; I filled the bucket.

Typically just a frame.

Nice work Charlie!

That is great!

I worked in a commercial framing shop for 26 years. There are so many things that can go sideways in a miter joint. After being used to using very expensive commercial machines I have zero interest in trying to use DIY machines to make frames. Your frame looks very well made. Kudos.

very nice frame

Good looking frame. I am also intimidated with making frames. I don't have a table saw, jointer, etc etc. I have a scroll saw! You-Tube sucks at instructions for making frames. That being said, I have found one that I have been using. I just recently purchased a mini table saw to get the 45 degree angles.

I won't say they are the best, but I have one like this and it has worked well for me.

Gave up on my router table, I use a table saw and a miter saw to make frames. I figure out how deep the groove needs to be, and how much overlap of the project, and I set my tablesaw fence and blade height accordingly. To make things easy on myself, I try to give myself enough room to overlap the project by the same length as the project and backer are thick. That way, I set the blade and the fence once. I'll get my frame stock, usually a ripped-down 2x4 or those trash spacers they use between layers of fencing slats at the big box stores (Lowes just throws those away, and welcomes any assistance in getting rid of them....sanded and stained a dark color, they look amazing). I'll run the frame stock down the table saw, then flip and rotate and run it down again to cut out a rectangular chunk. If the two cuts overlap a bit, that's fine, all of the over-cut will be inside the frame. Once I have my frame stock with a square cut out of one side, I set my miter to 45 degrees, and start cutting the sides. I usually use the project/backer to mark a side, cut the next angle, then measure again and mark each piece for top/bottom/left/right. I'll sand the frame, round the edges a bit with an oscillating hand sander, then I glue and nailgun the pieces together. Nothing fancy, just leaning on the piece to keep my body parts out of the way of any errant nails (had one go through my thumbnail.....never again. That hurt.). The nails are mainly there to hold it together while the glue sets. Frame assembled, I'll test for fit, sand the project/backer if I was a little off or there was some warping in the frame that I didn't notice. I measure and center a hanger on the back of the frame, stain it, and let it sit for 24 hours or so, then run a bead of wood glue around the inside corner, drop the project in, flip it right-side up and wipe up any glue that squeezed out. Let dry, and hang up! Your frame looks awesome, nobody's going to be taking it down to critique the back anyway.

I guess the only way to learn how to properly make a frame is to work in a frame shop as an apprentice. Most veteran woodworker/makers on Youtube don't make good teachers. I'm sure plenty of mistakes are made but we don't get to see then. I have a pretty well stocked workshop but my problem is I want to try and make everything. Scrolling is what I like to do best but its frustrating trying to learn how to get those finishing touches accomplished (framing) Gotta keep moving forward.... It's funny I do recall flunking wood shop in school

Staring to show some character now.

heat is your friend to take anything with adhesive off. Just like taking a pattern off a project. use heat gun. It works well.

Jimmy, your frame looks good to me. I recently did a project that requires a frame. Going to frame shop was expensive. Found a ready made frame the fit my project perfectly, but really flimsy. Like you, if found instructions very frustrating, didn't teach me a thing. Also youtube instructions for most things are primarily just showing off their abilities and equipment they have. My shop is very simple and tools I have are very limited, just basic tools for scrolling. I will keep trying. Jerry

I got my stickers on both sides for videos! Mounted my magnifying light. I just started plumbing in my bottom and top vac. I'll use the loc-line from my drill press for the top, as it has similar fittings to my top vac on my Excal. I have something else for my drill press. The goal is to make this totally portable in the shop. Just one electric cable to an outlet and one vac line that splits for top and bottom vacs. When I am done this weekend, I'll start another thread and post pics. Maybe others will want to set up saws like this.

Very nice job, RJ

Yeah, I bought that cart last weekend (US General), and had it all set up for my sander and table jig saw. Figure tomorrow or Saturday, I'll buy another and get those back up on it. I had that red one all wired and such, so it made sense since I wanted to get this thing working fast.

Got it from Bearwoods, no sales tax saved me ~$75.00. They ship from NJ, so it is a quick drive down thru Delaware, Maryland, down the Eastern Shore over the 22-mile Chesapeake Bay bridge-tunnel, and 4 miles to my house!

great set up. looks like that cart was built for it

Very nice set up, enjoy your new toy, that was fast delivery where did you purchase from, RJ

Took my time setting it up on the cart. Nice and stable got my table angle (higher in back) set, leveled the table and arm side to side, checked and adjusted the arm to table from to back. Got the blade 90 degrees to the table. Ran my power cables nice and neat with wire clips and such. MAN! When I first turned it on, it was so bloody quiet and smooth. You can hear and feel the difference of better materials! WOWZER!! Did a simple cut just to make some sawdust. Now to figure out how I want to place the cart and plumb it all into my dust collection system and move my top vac line and hose over.

certainly nothing wrong with that.. I am still intimated by frames. What are the best clamps to glue them with. I keep looking.

Yep that is not real smart. Try some Mineral spirits.. in a small spot...I think it will remove the label and glue without affecting the paint...is the underneath of the table the same finish? if so try it there. Again congrats. I think your are going to love that saw.

They look great, nice job Ron. Jeff

Well that is one way to fix a problem. I envy you and your new saw, I'm sure you will love it.

HOLY HOT TAMALE'!!!! Ordered my Pegas 30" saw Tuesday. SAME DAY.... shipped via UPS... It arrives TODAY!!!! 2-days! Should I complain how fast the shipping and delivery is?

Pretty sure that is the one I purchased.

Well I'm glad you figured that out.. That was my first hunch because it happen to me and then when I posted a message about it I discovered there were a whole lot of others that had the same issue.. Ray at Seyco told me it's very common with these type of saws.. Even if you lower the arm gently, you have to remember that putting tension to the blade is also pulling tension onto those threads. Over time it puts some wear on those threads and depending on how close the tolerances of the threads are in the beginning might determine how long they last. At $55 + shipping for the parts. I opted to just try blue loc-tite and see how that went.. I'm still running the original part. I put loc - tite on before the rebuild I did but while I had it all apart I also redid the loc-tite. There are a ton of folks out there that just wrapped a rubber band around the knob or something and made it hold the position with good results too.

I have a laptop on a cart.($120) I use the built-in camera for when I decide to show up on the camera My main video camera focusing on the scroll saw is on a small boom stand ($20) clamped to the right side of the laptop cart, and I am using a 7-year-old Canon VIXIA HF R800 Full HD Camcorder ($350). My other is a cheap chinese knockoff video camera ($200) for my workbench, that I can move to see my drill press and router. Now that I have my table jigsaw and 1x20" belt +disc sander on the same cart I can pivot the camera to that. This camera is on a tripod ($30), any sturdy one will do. I also use a mic pac, using the lapel microphone. This gives me the best audio, ($45)

Start with a cheap tripod and a cellphone clamp, and you are golden. Then you can work up like my videos with 2 cameras plus the one in the laptop. I can now inset myself in another video feed and also do split screens, like my workbench and scroll saw 50/50%. My cameras were left over when I was filming my Apache Helicopter radar training classes for the Army.

Another super project on a mighty fine plane

Easter Pysanky Eggs created by me prior to starting scrollwork. I did not learn the traditional Ukrainian designs and colors so I created my own. Have a Happy Easter. Dick Mira

This is a pattern from Steve Good.

I do all of my planing outside my small shop in the driveway. To be able to wheel the planer outside and back in, and also have a stand that would raise my DeWalt 735 planer up to a comfortable working height I settled on a Delta Miter Saw / Planer stand. DeWalt now makes a better version of this same design . This stand is the DeWalt 726. Since the mounting hole spacing of the planer did not match the rail spacing on the top of the stand I made an adapter plate from a piece of 3/4" cabinet birch plywood, drilling holes in the plywood to match the hole pattern of the planer and also the rails of the stand. I leave my 735 attached to the stand. When it's being stored in my shop, it is folded and standing on it's end in the corner of my shop requiring only a couple of sq ft of floor space. When I need to use it I wheel it out to the driveway like a hand truck, then lay it down on it's handles. Then a lift of the bar behind the handles raises it up to either of two working heights where a latch prevents it from folding. Gas springs in the stand assist in the lifting, removing about 50% of the effort that would be required without them. When I'm finished with the planning, I lift the stand slightly, and release the latch, then lower it back down to the driveway. I can then wheel it back into the shop and stand it up on end using the handles, again leaving it standing on it's end in the shop corner. The DeWalt 735 planer weighs 95 lbs, but it has handles, implying that it's a "portable tool". When I was 40 and younger I might have considered it "portable", but at twice this age and with a heart condition and metal knees now, it would likely end my life to try to lift and carry it now any distance now, yet with this stand I can move and use it without anyone helping me any time that I wish to use it, unless it's raining. Charley

Thanks. A stellar sales and delivery. Just waiting for someone to help me lift it onto the cart. But I want to know who was the genius that thought it was a good idea to stick a big ass sticker on the cutting table? A bit of it would not peel off, so I got stuck using a plastic scraper. Still residue on the table.