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I really enjoy Russ Beard's pattern but have never cut one. I saw this one recently and had to give it a go. I am happy with the results and have plans to cut another of his projects soon. It is on 1/4 BB Ply. I made a quick frame as my shop time has been very short lately and wanted to get things finished that I had started. So this is the results. The photo, as usual did not turn out very well as this is not one of my better things I do. Often a lot of my photo are of the floor instead of the subject I am trying to take. Dick heppnerguy

Made this for a door prize for our local Meals on Wheels. Now my wife and daughter want one. 3 x $0 =$0

I won't admit how long it took or how much wood was wasted... I won't show what the back looks like either. But it is what it is and ready for some paint. I have a lot to learn about routing the groove for the glass and project and not sure if I have the patience (or ability) to try any miter joints. All of the Youtube videos were either without instruction, just showing off their skills or explaining the details like an engineer.

I hope you like it. I used scrollsaw, carving tools and sanding tools for this work.

Just started this beautiful Leopard in the tree, a Russ Beard pattern, doing a double stack, on 3mm (1/8”) Birch Ply, using a 0 Niqua Pin Less Blade.

Then I fumbled through my closet for my clothes And found my cleanest dirty shirt. And I shaved my face and combed my hair And stumbled down the stairs to meet the day. Kris has written some awesome lyrics. I'll add the pattern to the library.

The F-16 Fighimg Falcon is a compact, multi-role fighter aircraft. It is highly maneuverable and has proven itself in air-to-air combat and air-to-surface attack. It provides a relatively low-cost, performance weapon system for the United States and allied nations.

I tweaked a great pattern by Sam Custodio. I absolutely love good finger style guitar picking and have tried many times to attain the skill but it's just not in the cards for me. I listened to acoustic guitar music through my headphones while cutting this and it was so therapeutic. The wood is 1/2" Sycamore and the backer was a thin plywood bottom from a repurposed dresser drawer. "♫ Who draws the crowd and plays so loud? Baby it's the guitar man. ♫

A modified Steve Good pattern. I used 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood and 3/8" Baltic Birch plywood-stained Walnut for the backing. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using mostly Pegas #1 MGT blades, but Pegas #0 Spiral blades around the Elk and Evergreens. A light sanding with a Mac Mop, dipped in diluted Shellac and two coats spray Lacquer Clear Satin with sanding between coats. Comments welcome.

About the spice rack. The newer style spice containers, the round glass ones, do not fit in the spice rack by about 1/4". My fix is that I'm enlarging the pattern by 20% so that all the dimension will be larger and allow the containers to fit. 20% increases the slots to 5/16" so wood that I already have will work. Is this why so few people are not making "functional" items now? Ever changing "standard" sizes, who'd a thunk it. The other item I know changed sizes is the tissue box, On a recent trip to the store I noted 3 different depths of tissue boxes, yet all the patterns that I see only have one size.

Very nice frame, nice tight joints. Picture is nice too

After I was about to hang up my scrolling, and feeling unworthy to continue as I felt so much a failure cutting the 57 Chevy convertible, I have since learned to finally SLOW DOWN and thanks to you I am now enjoying tackling the complex fret and loving it. Dick heppnerguy

Fantastic cutting! Love the fine details. Always a quality job.

Dick, excellent cutting, RJ

Looks great Charlie.

So for what it's worth, I'm going to call it finished... Although I have glass already cut for my other six projects, and used it on this one, I may not use it with all of them since the reflections are a distraction and it really doesn't do the cutting any justice. I think miter joints on frames have their place on certain subject matter but I really like the look of butt joints more. Though the more I look at it I think the 2 inch frame width makes it look chunky, maybe 1 inch instead?? Let the experimenting begin!

I actually like the butt joints better than a miter. It's a trade off on the construction though since you can only cut the rabet all the way through on 2 pieces so it won't be seen on the outside edges. For me it was tricky to start those non through cuts easing the wood into a spinning but at the right spot, not too short or long. I made that first frame partly because that 1/4" Baltic birch panel was starting to warp which is possible when so much material is removed on some projects. I'm retired just wanting to kill some time, learn something, stay out of the wife's way and have all my fingers at the end of the day.

Nice looking piece. For a piece like that I actually like the look of a non-mitered frame. Bit more rustic, which I like. I've got around 140 portraits on my shop walls and not a frame on one of them, so you know how much I enjoy making frames.

Great job, Dick!

Thanks, Dave. I just used some acrylic craft paint. I used the pattern after I removed it as a stencil to help with where to paint on the backer. The wood is 1/2" so the colors don't all show up as much as on thin plywood, but I actually like the way it works, as you move from one side to the other different parts stand out.

Another great one. Love some of his work. Marg

That is beautiful Charlie. Well done. Marg

Very Nice, I really like the subject matter.

I also like Sam Custodio's patterns although I have not see his page for a long time. I was going to stop at his house and chat with him a few years back but he was off fishing when I was through his town. I always enjoy your patterns and your work. Nicely done once more Dick heppnerguy

Hey Everyone! In this fun scroll saw project video, we make a rustic Turtle On A Log Scene, I use 1/2 inch plywood for the portrait with a 1/4 inch backer board. The design comes from the Ultimate Book Of Scroll Saw Patterns By Fox Chapel Publishing. Hope you all like the video! #ArtisanPirate

One of my favorite songs. I like his singing it better than Johnny Cash. Dick heppnerguy

I am starting to get into making my frames and I have learned to make my own inlays but have not put one together yet, my next frame I will include an inlaid frame. As far as making a frame It depends on what wood thickness you cut your pattern from. For 1/4 ply I start by cutting all the wood for it on my table saw to make sure they are all the exact width and thickness. Next I use my router to cut the groove in for my project on all my frame wood. If I am going to round my edges I route all of them. If I decide I want to have a 45 degree on the inside of the frame I route that next. Then I go to the miter saw and cut my length so they are exactly the same. Because I am new to making my frames, I then lay the first two pieces upside down and check to see if my project I am framing is the precise length I need. I always cut them a little too long on purpose so I have enough for this step. I inside of the the grove where the plaque is going to be inset is where I determine the length needed. I usually allow about a 16th inch total length longer as that will still hold my insert pattern without a problem. I do the same one the other two sides and when I am happy with that, I glue them up. That is they process I use and it seems to work for me Dick heppnerguy

A nice project and a great place to use it. Good for you Dick heppnerguy

Looks great. Did you use an air brush?

No glass.

Charlie, that is a beautiful piece, RJ

Frame only here, tried putting them behind glass when I first started, didn't care for the look, really took away from the wood. Glassless is much better. Chris

Thank you! I've been a Willie fan since I was a young teenager. He's made several appearances on my wall. Kris was the last of the Highwaymen that I've cut individually. I'm going to try and rearrange them to get them all together.

For SIL. 1/4 BB on 1/8 BB. Medium Watco and rattle can blue.

I agree it never was one size fits all. I use to make tissue boxes in the 90's and they were all different sizes. How many different candle jars out there.

I think this is an issue with any pattern. You just enlarge to fit your needs. I just expect it.

I tried the tissue box and had the same problem.

I just checked the FB account. The gentleman is having FB issues, surprise, no surprise. The original page "A saw subject" is still up. the new one with the brand name has been taken down by FB ( he is not Hegner, so it violates the "rules" ).

I will be in touch with you thank you

I concur. I didn't do all of the lessons but what I did got me to where I am now.

@81Shaun Are you able to purchase The Scroll Saw Workbook? I recommend new scrollers to buy this workbook and do the exercises. I feel it is money well spent. When I was learning, there was no internet (GASP) I borrowed an old version of this book from the library. It is how I began.

Welcome to the Village from Tennessee. The blades you mentioned are called Skip blades and you can find better prices online. I sell Pegas blades which are Swiss made. These are great blades to start. Message me if you have further questions about blades.

Hello, welcome to the village! I guess I don't have a lot to add from what has already been said. Do feel free to ask any questions, if you are like most here you'll probably quickly find that the search function works just about as good as a flat tire on a car.. it's there and spins around somewhat but not great. I've been on this site for years and still have trouble getting relevant info on whatever I searched for so sometimes it's hit or miss using the search.

Hi Shaun, Welcome to the Village. As others have said go back and read as many newbie questions as you can. Also Utube can be your best friend and Steve Good has several videos and he is very good at explaining things. You can also reach him thru his website for some advice . I use Primarily Flying dutchman blades which I buy thru Mikes Workshop and #5 ultra reverse is my go to. This blade is my personal choice. FD are less expensive and free shipping. I buy most of my wood from LL Johnson which is in Michigan, you can buy wood online from Ocooch lumber. Sometimes you can find decent wood at Menard, Home Depot or Lowes and Amazon for the thinner Baltic birch. Even if a question has been asked before don't be afraid to ask again. Everybody explains things differently so one explanation might not help but another's might. Have you ever heard of the Ping test for blade tension? This is what a lot of scrollers use. Each blade is different as far as tightness goes so give it a try. The more you scroll the more comfortable you will get (plus some frustrating moments) it's all part of scrolling. Just enjoy the process.

I just searched YouTube for "beginning scrollsaw" and got several good videos. I suggest that you watch several of them and see if it helps.

As far as blades go, I've found that either Pegas or Flying Dutchman seem to be the best out there. But blades are a personal thing, try those 2 for starters and get like #3 and #5 of each. I always set mine to cut on the down stroke, if you run your finger lightly over the teeth they will grab in one direction, that will tell you which way is the down side. The wood will be less likely to jump up while cutting if the teeth are cutting down. There are many variations of those blades also, skip tooth, reverse tooth and so on. There is no right answer here, find what works for you, it'll take time, but you'll get there. Another factor is cutting speed. If you have a single speed saw your kinda stuck with that speed which is way a variable speed saw is better. You'll find slower speeds may work better for you with thinner stock, again, it's a personal choice thing. What has been posted so far is great information and this site is the place to be to get the information you need to be successful. Good luck...Chris

A note on blades get dull fast: Don't push the wood. Let the tiny teeth do the work. Really fast tight turns will dull blades fast. Thicknesses of blades: #1 blades will need to be tight. But a thicker blade #7 won't need to critically tight. You will find some #1 blades combinations of wood thickness act differently. Ex.. #1 with 1/4" might fine following the lines without twisting. But the same blade may act different with 1/8". I found a #00 blade worked better at 1/4" than it did with 1/8". Me. Mark Eason

I have found his patterns and have been tinkering around trying to make something I have a couple I made using really thin 1/8" wood

Thank you Dan. I am messing with the saw now and I tightened the tension up really good and it seems like it's cutting better with the wide blade but I hope it wasn't tightened to tight? Heard a kinda pop sound so I'm not sure? Yeah I believe I have the blade in the correct cutting direction. Lots of learning with this stuff for sure hopefully I will figure this all out.

Maybe one of the recent newbies could provide information that was given to him. Somewhere, somehow, it would be good to have some saved posts that provide newbie information. It seems that these are repeated questions from the past. What we need is classes for newbies that are an introduction to scrolling. Please provide your location and some background information.