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I've been working to finish these two western pieces for a sale this coming weekend. They were both double stack cut and while one of the attached photos shows it is finished natural, the other is finished with ipswich. They have their mates but I wanted to show the difference between the two. They are cut on Baltic Birch with Birch backers stained ebony. The frames are knotty pine cut to size. The pieces are coated with several coats of gloss polyacrylic and the frames are done with satin. The patterns are by Jim Blume. The portrait piece was an easy cut but the landscape piece was a ... well, I'll just say it was tough. There are several areas that are bridged with single small pieces that made the piece very fragile. Regardless, however challenging, they were a lot of fun to cut. The door hanger is a Steve Good pattern and still has to be finished with polyacrylic. Wanted something a little easier to do after tackling the landscape Jim Blume piece. Finally, our new addition to our family. (My wife's Christmas present.) The Papillon, Chocolate "Chip," give us a total of four dogs. We still have the two cats and about 75 goldfish. Anyway, I did the pattern for Chip's piece which was cut from Baltic Birch and stained Ipswich. I added brown accents because he is what is called a Tri-color Papillon. It has a black Birch backer and the frame is cut from pre-fab framing material to match the ones I have done of the other cuts of the clan.

There is a small trend of doctors offices that like little trinkets. So I had a foot doctor visit today and made a foot drawer. This I guess is part of a micro drawer series? She the Dr. loved it. The nurse assistant liked it also. So I guess I need to make 4 more. Started with 2"x2"x12" which ends up at 1.5" x1.5" and it fits in 4.5" long. Wood type is Mrytle. Finish is Arm R Seal. She did not say how she is gonna use it. She says it will be on her desk.

Wasn't going to cut this pattern because of the veining... I can mess up on some things and have sand paper bail me out but you pretty much have to get it right since there's no do overs. When I was cutting the hairline the blade was stuck when it was done so I cut it off rather than trying to back it out. All in all it wasn't too bad but the letters could have been better. Now I'm trying to decide if I want to add stain, wipe on poly or something else since the ply looks too light and plain. Then there's the deciding on a frame or something else for a backer other than black...

Just a couple of charcuterie boards

I don't know, Barb, it looks like you are collecting dust. Just not where you want it.

I used the same design on the chess table and the table top model. The drawer slides all the way through so there is access from both sides. I made a small difference in the pieces.

Yes, but in the spirit of truth in advertising - how about a photo of what it looks like after an afternoon of scroll sawing without the vacuum?

Easter Pysanky Eggs created by me prior to starting scrollwork. I did not learn the traditional Ukrainian designs and colors so I created my own. Have a Happy Easter. Dick Mira

I’m not sure if it was posted in this community, but someone posted a paragraph about the value of a scroll saw cutting, they pointed out the experience in cutting the pattern, the hours of hard work etc. if anyone has a copy of that, please mail it to me at don.bedggood@gmail.com. i would be very great full.

It has been quite some time since I have posted, I have dropped in and caught up on some reading. On one of those visits I found a pattern by Jim Blume(Thank you) and decided to cut it. This is my cutting of Jim's Yellowstone. I stack cut 3 out of 1/8" Baltic Birch. measures 16 x 20 and is framed using 100+ year old elm barn board. Just over 14 hours of cutting using spiral blades. Again, Thank you Jim for sharing the pattern.

Sanded it to 220 then a quick once over with 400. The pain was sliding a skinny strip of 800 to clear the sawdust from all the veining before sealing and staining.

I have the same results I think part of it is the poor quality of the BB we get now days. Did you sand it before you cut the piece. That helps some, I find.

I built a stand for my first saw (a WEN) and it vibrated like crazy, The top of the stand was made with 3/4 ply. I removed the saw, replaced the 3/4 ply with a solid piece of 2X material and the little WEN would pass the nickle test. My be the difference in the top of your bench compared to where you had it previously. You may be able to strengthen it by glue and screw from the bottom side with 2X material.

After solving the bulk of my vibration troubles I found bench weight and flex were the main problems. I've noticed too that if the blade isn't tightened the way the saw likes there will be vibrations too.

Typically I go a couple hours at a time. Pretty sure there was one project I sat at the saw for 8 hours minimum straight. I know I had to go to the bathroom a couple times, but then it was back to it. Depending on the project, its whatever I can get done in an evening, so about 2 maybe 3 hours at a time with only bathroom stops.

It kind of depends on the project for me (ie if very detailed portrait type of cutting that's going to take 12 hours to complete then I typically drill 10 - 20 holes and sit and cut those out then get up to drill more holes and always walk over to the sander to sand the back side burs off of the drilled holes. ) but typically every 20 - 30 minutes I'm getting up and doing something else for around 5-10 minutes. Some projects I might sit a little longer just to complete it if it's almost finished or something. Side Note: I drill the 10-20 holes in those large portrait type patterns and put a tick mark on it so to keep track of how many drilled holes I did for said project.. since that is one thing I'm often asked is how many holes did you have to drill and cut.. Most designers don't count to give that sort of info even though as I understand it... that info can be generated in the drawing software somehow so nobody really has to physically count..

On my Excalibur I have the Seyco scroll saw dust extractor.. It works really well for the dust underneath the saw, however the dust from the top lands onto the table top and as I spin the wood around I end up pushing some of it off the table and onto my lap just like you show here. Almost nothing goes to the floor.. The best set-up I've had so far was just using the dust port on the saw with my big loud shop vac. but the drawback from that is the noise, and the suction is strong enough to hold my board down to the table top.. which doesn't bother me too much so long as I keep the table top wax and very very slick. The only dust that escapes is what the dust blower blows to the side which lands onto the vac hose that is connected to the dust port. Often thought about going back to that set up with a T into the vac hose somewhere so it could have a suction hose off to the side so catch that dust that the blower blows to the side. I would want a much quieter vac though.. and not sure if the suction on a quieter one would be the same or as efficient. Due to the loud vac, I just continue to use the Seyco system as it seems to be a happy middle ground, at least until I can get more business and have some extra cash to buy a quieter vac. or find a good used one on Marketplace.

Beautiful craftsmanship, RJ

Very well done, is this your design, RJ

Top job there! A really great job on cutting and finishing, thank you for posting, Bob

It looks very neatly cut and finished Jimmy, Thanks for posting, Bob

Hi Rodney, You put a lot of work into those pieces of scrolling! Top of the class! I love them all, Thanks for showing us, Bob

All are great pictures. I love the color accents on the dog pictures. Great pieces.

Great job on everything!

Very well cut and certainly nothing wrong with that veining. Something you might try sometime on a practice piece. When I do veining, I first cut with a small size straight blade, then I go back over the cut with as small spiral blade to widen the kerf some. The spiral will follow the first cut, and you can sorta file some of the wavers out with thee spiral blade.

Beautiful top-notch quality work!

lovely work. A great group of dog portraits.

Some great cutting in all of those which look great.

I don't think any dust collection system will get all of the dust. I have a small box under the lower blade clamp that gets most of what makes it past the bottom vacuum on my saw. I still haven't figured out how to get the dust from between the wood and the table. The DeWalt doesn't have holes to let it out, so it just rolls around under there till I sweep it up. Tom

Oh my goodness! How did I miss this thread? Dave, that is absolutely beautiful craftsmanship. I take my hat off to you sir!

Really nice....I didn't know you painted like that. Nice selection of colors and blending almost looked like you airbrushed it. Very pretty, I can see why you wife and daughter want one as well...

Dick, you should never hang up scrolling, you do such fantastic work....I think I missed your 57 Chevy...But this moose is wonderful...what a lot of fret work. What type/size of blades did you use? it doesn't look like those spiral ones were used. Also I really like your frame with this one.

Couple I did last year. Springtime, butterflies are starting to visit the wife's garden again.

Hi Dick. Thank you. As for the Shellac, I buy the liquid in the quart and dilute it 50% with denatured alcohol. Dipping lets it get into all the little frets and dries quickly.

On this one I just used spray cans.

Interesting development. My schedule didn't allow me any shop time for 3 days and when I went down today to try to solve the vibration it was all but gone, all the issues I was having. I can only speculate that @kmmcrafts and @TAIrving are on to something that after moving the saw it needed time to "settle " into its new position. Well, I'm just glad it's back to normal. Thanks everyone for the help. Chris

Some of my Easter-themed work from the past.

I think you'll find your problem is like Thurman said above.. you probably need to adjust the rubber feet. The feet might have been planted to the table very well on the surface of the old table / benchtop.. maybe the new or old bench has a slight low spot and one of the rubber feet is not firm to the bench now. I have a brand new shop and new concrete floor.. my saw will tell me if it has been moved even just the slightest amount because it'll pick up some extra vibration. I place my saws where they'll be permanently parked.. then adjust the feet to that particular spot.. If I move the saw even the slightest amount.. I have to readjust the feet again.

Mine (Pegas) sits on a bench also, concrete floor, solid bench. I had to adjust the levelers on the feet to stop the vibration.

The things you mentioned have been on my mind too, I'll be checking those out Wednesday. Never thought about the rubber grommets, so I'll definitely check those.

Did the legs of the saw change any. Maybe try spreading if they can. Or maybe the rubber grommets need to be moved .Is the bench top flat?

Despite my shop vac running and connected to the scrollnado, this is the end result after the afternoon of cutting.

The nickle will stay upright but still moves a bit. Cutting is ok, but in my brain I'm trying to get to zero vibration like my P-20. Had it there once, just one of those little things that get under my skin that I want to try to fix. There may be no "fix" to it, but I still like to try.

@Wichman, I have it on a concrete floor, not the most level, but I shim the legs to make it rock steady on the floor. Thanks though, weird part is, it's still in the same spot in the shop, just a different bench, this one is bigger and heavier, still though something changed, the mystery thickens....