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Just to be clear Canadians don't brag... lol First ever portrait. My sister's cat died recently, unexpectedly and this will be a gift to her. I just need to frame it. Thanks to Grampa who did the pattern for me.

My wife volunteer at our local Legion as a bartender and their tips bowl was awful so I decided to make one for them, maybe bigger tips LOL

I have a friend who enjoys hanging the different airplanes I have made for him and was ready for another. He asked me to make him a P 38 from WWII. I looked for a good realistic wood pattern to cut and could not find one. So I looked up several photos of the real plane and pieced together, from the different views and found enough to get the angles I needed to make the model. Problem was, everyone had a different size so I had to resize all of them to be the same and make a temporary pattern and the try to get all the angle and slopes close enough to cut. It was a very difficult project for me without a pattern but I got one that will look OK hanging from the ceiling of his garage with the other planes I made. I already know it is a project I will never cut again as it was extremely time consuming to make it all come together. Dick heppnerguy

Did up this hanger for a friend's son. 1/2 inch birch ply. 19 inches tall. I added another strip to the back of the areas where the medals will hang just to make sure it doesn't sag over time. Used a French cleat setup for mounting. Glued and screwed that in for reinforcement. Having it bumped out like that also had the unintended benefit of making it easier to hang the medals without having to take the whole thing down to add another one.

The angle will change. You can calculate the angle here https://www.scrollmania.com/ This is from Carole at SSW Now, down to business. If you go to Dave's program (AngleCalc), enter the thickness of your wood as a decimal. Then, enter the ring width, also as a decimal. Go to where it says "angle" and click on "solve". The correct angle should appear. Round the number up, if necessary, and add one degree. That should work. However, to play it safe, send me a PM with your specs and I'll compute it for you. That way you can check your own work, and not risk ruining your wood.

Found and printed out this image on Pinterest. Even though the outline was a tad too thick to scroll I just went down the middle of the thick line, not too much fun. Anyway... Should I leave the Basswood base natural as it is now or just paint it black to match???

This was supposed to be a Christmas present for my neighbor and his wife for this past Christmas! I started it about 2 weeks ago and gave it to them yesterday. They loved it. He told me that before they moved in next doors 27 years ago, they used to have birds. He said at one time they used to have 16, all different types but never a Blue Macaw. The plans are from The Winfield Collection. I used just plain old 2"x10" and 1"x8" materials. My wife did all of the painting. Lots of sanding involved in this one! I used the bandsaw to cut out all of the pieces and used the scrollsaw to cut apart the beak and to re-saw the bottom part of the beak to make it thinner. I haven't used the bandsaw much for projects in the last couple of years,, but using the scrollsaw is very good practice for staying on the lines when using a bandsaw! LOL I used an old piece of cedar for the post and a dowel for the perch and a piece of 2"x8" for the base.

https://scrollsawbowls.blogspot.com/2015/07/an-easy-way-to-figure-out-cutting-angle.html

I like the contrast of the Basswood to the black. I’d leave it.

Nicely done. Great Idea. I bet it was well received at the legion Dick heppnerguy

That is a beautiful bowl. As I said on the other forum, too good for tips.

Dave VanEss's site is a good source for calculations.

I'm an advocate for spiral blades, but sometimes they just aren't suitable for the piece being cut. In those cases, I do much like JT and just stand and bend awkwardly to make the cuts that are difficult to reach. I ty to avoid this situation whenever possible, but sometimes it just isn't feasible.

Very nice bowl.. and a man with a bar tender wife, some men have it all!

I have run into a few situations like that over the years. I would have to stand to do my cutting in those cases and bend over. Not the most comfortable way but needed to be done. I also use a larger 1/4" zero clearance sub table top to help support the work piece or it has a tendency to flop. I hate spiral blades so there were a couple times I actually had to bend the blade 90 degrees so it cut to the side instead of front to back. Awkward but effective. As said though spiral blades would sure be the thing to use.

With the angle calculator to make the bowl with a piece of wood 3/4” thick and ring at 3/8” wide the angle will be 26.6 degrees. I will suggest that if you use hard wood, go easy DO NOT push the blade too hard because that will change the angle and the sanding will take quite a bit of work. P.S. Carole does not call it sanding but shaping it does not sound as bad. LOL

I've done a couple of her bowls and when I had questions I'd email her. She's very good at answering. This one was designed to be 7" but I wanted to make it bigger and add a ring so I wrote to get her opinion.

Plywood gives strength. Going with thinner species stock will mean you will have to pay attention to the grain. I have cut hundreds of ornaments from 1/8" ply and there folks here using 1/16". Using good quality Baltic birch ply wakes all the difference as there generally no gaps or patches.

I agree that using ply is not the way to go. A lot of folks use ply, but I would rather use hardwoods. I have always thought 1/4” was too thick and !/8” is too thin. So, I use 3/16”. Of course I have the tools necessary to resaw and plane my stock. If you are going to use hardwoods, I would go with 1/4”.

Very nice! I’ve made lots of running medal hangers using mug hooks. Yours is way cooler!

Mighty fine cutting. Never into wrestling, but in high school, I did wrestle a state champion. He was 20 pounds lighter than me. Of course I got pinned.

Hello all! I’m trying to be proactive this year and start working Christmas ornaments with more than a month to get them all done. This year I’m thinking I will order stock from Ocooch rather than going to the local box store. I have been using 1/4” poplar; but thinking I want to go to 1/8” ash or similar. Regardless of species, will 1/8” be thick enough to last? I don’t want to make things so fragile they break if bumped or knocked around. Most of what I make comes from Steve Goode’s site. A lot of his patterns call for ply and I just don’t feel right using that. thanks in advance!

You have those propellers in you fridge most likely. I made them by cutting off the bottoms of plastic water bottles. Hows that for recycling? Dick

You guys amaze me. Both of you are so talented. Beautiful job on cutting and pattern making. Did you use spirals on them? I've just bought a batch of blades to cut a peacock lamp that Bernd was kind enough to share his pattern with me. I hope to get going again once my wife is back to her old self.

WOW!!! Very cool Dick. I really like it. Took a lot of work on your part, from beginning to end. Jerry

My only issue is that shipping is twice the price of what I ordered. I think it is what they are charged, don't know for sure. Otherwise I am 100% satisfied with Ocooch. They have quality products and service. Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet. Jerry

Thanks to @JTTHECLOCKMAN, the blog answered exactly was I needed. And yes @barb.j.enders, that is quite a blog and rabbit hole (lol)

Well you did a great job! Tell us about the propellers, I have never seen that before.

My board size is 11” x 14” hence I have to print A3.

I had to calculate each ring for this hollow football. I had to look up math equations..tangent and arc tangent. I Used a calculator that had scientific trig functions. I don't recommend excel or similar. Best to use Dave angle tool. The easiest is what JTCLOCKMAN showed.

scrollsawbowls@yahoo.com

Ok I'm not real savy with the tech stuff. @OCtoolguyand @don in brooklin on, where would I find Carole's email?

Excellent job, RJ

I print from Inkscape to legal size and o shipping labels. I must change the size in the document properties to the size of the paper.

Inkscape will not let me print 11 x 17 from within Inkscape. When I forced it to print on an 11 x 17 sheet of paper the image was reduced to 8.5 x 11. Yet I can save the file as a .pdf then print full size from a .pdf viewer, and I can print 11 x 17 from Libre office, both text files and drawings. I asked about this on the Inkscape chat page, but they want me to jump though hoops to report a "bug", and I'm already wasting enough time, I've got a work around that works. Every time there's an update to Inkscape I try again, but so far, no dice. FYI when I open a multi page .pdf Inkscape shows distinct pages, not just one big page. But I can't find a way to do that from within Inkscape itself. Thing that make you go humm.

Leave it.

I agree!

Whatever it is, it is very heavy and hard as rock. I just spoke with Woodcraft and thankfully I can exchange it.

Very nicely done. It would have been nice to have posted a pic of Bear with the cutting to see how well you did capturing the likeness. I nice dark frame witll make it pop.

That is a really cool idea. I have made a lot of ribbon racks for various sports and this is a great. I have always used dowels or shaker pegs but this looks a lot easier.(and cheaper) Never thought of French cleat might have to steal the idea. Thanks for posting- Well done.

Here is some specifications for that engine... You might use something from this site for frame labels. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GE_Dash_9-44CW

Wow! Both pieces are amazing! As one who loves model railroading (and anything to do with trains) that is right up my wheelhouse. Going back and forth from photo to the two pieces, it just blows me away.

Paul, That is amazing! It looks like it is ready to move right out of the picture frame. I can't believe the detail. Excellent work...Now I hope you get to buy your new lawn mower and start mowing. I see it has been quite warm down in your neck of the woods. ....Also, to get those longer straight lines, did use a razor or something to score the wood before cutting it?

Awesome job Paul. Way to hang in there. Well worth it.

Paul, you have done a beautiful job, RJ

Great job on pattern and the cutting.

Hubby helped with the choice of backer. I had two pieces to choose from. He also pointed out the swirl of the grain lined up with the upper left leaf.

Call out to both Pete @Scrappile and Bernd @munzieb for great pattern and great cuttings. Persistence pays!

The original Photo. This was the hardest project I've ever done. I am not a designer, I'm only a pixel eater using MS 3D paint. Too old to learn newer software. Paul did fantastic cutting. Something to be very proud of. It only took him so long to finish because he kept going back to playing his street organ, Ha!

Top class very fine detail work to make it so great.