Leaderboard

I have a friend who enjoys hanging the different airplanes I have made for him and was ready for another. He asked me to make him a P 38 from WWII. I looked for a good realistic wood pattern to cut and could not find one. So I looked up several photos of the real plane and pieced together, from the different views and found enough to get the angles I needed to make the model. Problem was, everyone had a different size so I had to resize all of them to be the same and make a temporary pattern and the try to get all the angle and slopes close enough to cut. It was a very difficult project for me without a pattern but I got one that will look OK hanging from the ceiling of his garage with the other planes I made. I already know it is a project I will never cut again as it was extremely time consuming to make it all come together. Dick heppnerguy

https://www.facebook.com/reel/3656385241241166 here is a great idea that could easily be made into a scrollsaw pattern and many patterns. pretty cool.

I really should not be posting this in Bragging Rights as it is nothing to brag about. I found this haunting image of a panther face and attempted to duplicate it just as it appeared...Bright Green and White against a solid Black background with a very faint grey-black shading. Although a relitively easy cutting, suffice to say things did not go smoothly as expected, and one ‘bugger’ led to another. I had many problems with the painting, especially the finish of the Black. And then, after deciding to make a Gallery style floating Frame for this piece it took three attempts to get the size correct and the mitered joints, tight. I used 5/32” solid core birch ply for the cut panel and 1/4” BB Ply for the backer. The panel size is really oddball at 11 1/8” by 19”. The cutting was done with Pegas # 1 MGT R blades for all the long-curved cut outs and Pegas #2/0 spiral blades elsewhere. The assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of Clear Closs Acrylic finish. The frame was finished with Black Lacquer. I’m most interested in comments about the image and If I should consider doing a remake as I think this first attempt will become fuel for my Firepit.

My wife volunteer at our local Legion as a bartender and their tips bowl was awful so I decided to make one for them, maybe bigger tips LOL

To help out sometimes I will drill a couple different holes for the same cutout area.. this way I can cut in a direction where the board is toward the back of the saw giving me more sitting / standing room at the front of the saw.. and also as JT mentioned.. bend the blade ends so they cut from the side instead of the front of the saw.

Finished up yesterday, both are Steve Goods patterns

silly idea use AI to make a scroll saw pattern of a picture! Maybe I do not know.

I've got a laser but I don't do that because it's time more time consuming to set up laser to do the quick engrave just so I can go back to cut it, LOL... If I'm setting up the laser to do something I'm just going to cut it on the laser while it's there and set up to run.. But my laser is more than just a low powered laser for marking / engraving so I can cut it out quickly and easily. In fact this is what I do now when people request personalization.. it's too time consuming to get a un-perfect scrolled ornament lined up to laser engrave on it so I just do the engrave and then cut it on the laser too so everything is lined up perfect.

I have not done it, but I have seen it done in videos. The only problem I can see with it is that you would need to hit the lines perfectly unless you are going to paint or round over the edges. If I had a laser I would do it.

I frame mine under glass. Because I ain’t dusting that.

I finally completed this project. I took me the longest of any project I have tried in my years of scrolling. Took two tries. I wanted to make a picture of a modern diesel train engine for my nephew-in-law that is a conductor. I could not find a pattern of one. Talking to @munzieb one time I mentioned it to him, he told to send him a picture of what you want and he would make a pattern. And he did, a real detailed pattern. A beautiful pattern.. I worked on it, gave up once, then decided to try again. I worked on this over a period of 4 or 5 months. Bernd Would call every once in a while to see how I was doing. I told him I was about to give up. I just could not scroll like I use to. He said he would give it a try. Two weeks latter he sends me his completed scrolled picture of it! So the challenge was thrown down. I had to quit whining and keep cutting. Finally got there. Many, many thanks to Bernd for the coaching and encouragement. Would never have finished it without it. I still have to frame it. The first picture is mine, the second is the one he cut and sent to me. His was even more difficult than mine, his was a little smaller.

A big thanks to Bobscroll for these patterns, which I got from the Scroll Saw Village library. All done on 1/4 in BB ply. When the morning sun hits them they really sparkle. I can't seem to catch it on my cell phone camera. I hope I submitted this right...I'm still learning the system.

Hi All - I am just wondering if anyone has tried using a diode laser set on a really low setting to mark your cut lines for a fret work design instead of shelf liner\paper and spray glue? I am really finding it frustrating to see my pattern lines (mostly when two lines are close to one another) after getting about 25% of the way into a project, especially when I use spiral blades. The thought just popped into my head because a laser is able to generate a super thin crisp line. I bring all of my scroll saw designs into inkscape (svg) first anyway to manipulate size and soften edges to meet my style so it would not be any extra steps for me to do the design conversion. Just wondering if anyone has tried this and if so was it not worth the extra effort?

I will say, I've seen this approach on metal, and because metal heats and expands when you cut it, pattern adherence can be a problem for very fine detail. I plan to try this on my coins when I eventually get a laser. On wood, for normal patterns, having a white paper background with very black lines seems like it would be easier to see than a burn line against a wood backdrop. It certainly doesn't hurt to experiment though. I would be interesting to see how easily a shallow laser line could be sanded off if you happen to stray a bit form the line.

As you probably realize, I am not very happy with the results of this effort but at least I was able to complete it and that was something I was not sure of all the way through the effort. It is recognizable but I hoped it could be better than it turned out. It reminded me of when I struggled with cutting your pattern and was almost ready to throw in the towel and you saved me from giving up on my scrolling. The problems were here but your encouragement kept me doing what I love. Because of what you did for me at that time, I just fought my way through this project and never got to that same point of discouragement I was in then. Dick heppnerguy

That is very impressive.

I stand when I need more maneuverability. Sometimes I stand to the side of the saw to get a good approach angle. Sometimes you need to be a contortionist.

Dick, you have done an excellent job, RJ

I did find the "pages" tab. It was hidden at the location you described. I had to move things around so that it would show. Thanks.

Dick, that is absolutely stunning! I have to believe that was a difficult project especially since its a one-off. Well done!

What is the document properties under preferences. It looks like you have it set to letter instead of ledger 11x17

You have those propellers in you fridge most likely. I made them by cutting off the bottoms of plastic water bottles. Hows that for recycling? Dick

I've cut many ornaments and have used both ply and hardwood. If the ornament pattern is very detailed and fragile, I go with 1/8" BB ply. Simpler ornaments with less fragile cross grain areas tend to get hardwood. I usually plane down to somewhere around 3/16". Like Dan said, 1/4" is too chunky and 1/8" is too thin & fragile for hardwood ornaments, IMHO. Lately I've been gravitating more toward the fragile, detailed ornaments, so I've been using a lot more ply. I don't think it detracts from the appearance, because there usually isn't enough of the wood left to see the color and grain pattern anyway. Also, if I want to spruce it up a little, I can add a little color and/or glitter to add visual interest. I've found that the ornaments I make from my favorite hardwoods like cherry & walnut, tend to disappear on the tree because they don't stand out like lighter colored woods or brightly painted/dyed ones.

My only issue is that shipping is twice the price of what I ordered. I think it is what they are charged, don't know for sure. Otherwise I am 100% satisfied with Ocooch. They have quality products and service. Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet. Jerry

Thanks to @JTTHECLOCKMAN, the blog answered exactly was I needed. And yes @barb.j.enders, that is quite a blog and rabbit hole (lol)

I too, stand and bend over. The belly seems to get in the way. Also, the eyesight is not as good as it was. Doctor's appointment is two months away.

I'm an advocate for spiral blades, but sometimes they just aren't suitable for the piece being cut. In those cases, I do much like JT and just stand and bend awkwardly to make the cuts that are difficult to reach. I ty to avoid this situation whenever possible, but sometimes it just isn't feasible.

Very nice bowl.. and a man with a bar tender wife, some men have it all!

Spiral blades.

I have run into a few situations like that over the years. I would have to stand to do my cutting in those cases and bend over. Not the most comfortable way but needed to be done. I also use a larger 1/4" zero clearance sub table top to help support the work piece or it has a tendency to flop. I hate spiral blades so there were a couple times I actually had to bend the blade 90 degrees so it cut to the side instead of front to back. Awkward but effective. As said though spiral blades would sure be the thing to use.

I agree that using ply is not the way to go. A lot of folks use ply, but I would rather use hardwoods. I have always thought 1/4” was too thick and !/8” is too thin. So, I use 3/16”. Of course I have the tools necessary to resaw and plane my stock. If you are going to use hardwoods, I would go with 1/4”.

welcome! i'm still a beginner but a little while ago a had a suggestion for a book. I read it and turns out it's very helpful it has the history of scroll saws, safety, helpful attachments, and beginner scroll saw patterns here is the link for it on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Scroll-Saw-Workbook-3rd-Skill-Building/dp/1565238494/ref=asc_df_1565238494/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312176357204&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13720855548131921459&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010766&hvtargid=pla-489299486127&psc=1&mcid=2be326be2e2330958792b7b899a8e1d1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=60258871857&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312176357204&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13720855548131921459&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010766&hvtargid=pla-489299486127&gclid=CjwKCAjwh4-wBhB3EiwAeJsppGYegFW_2GkH61BCw32KAFU1xJrfN07E21hUUdhxl_zb4j-2izrqrRoCyhgQAvD_BwE

I've replaced bearings on most of my G4, but not those. However, that entire saw is easy to work on, so I doubt you will have much of an issue replacing them. Being an owner of a G4, and a person who restores machinery, I can try to answer any questions, or even take my saw apart, should the need arise. Dan

I have not seen much on any bearing replacement on the Hawks other than the arm that connects the lower arm down to the motor.. I have done that on one of my saws and have seen topics where others have also done that. Never seen anything on the arm bearings though. What kind of questions do you have about the arm bearings? I've had the arms off of a couple of my Hawks but they were older saws that had a different style bearing than these newer saws.. but maybe I can answer if you have a specific question about them.

Rolf is correct. This is made to fit on shop vacs and not dust collectors. I do have some 2" hoses set up like Rolf from my large dust collector but they go to my spindle sander and one of my portable sanders. Those do not collect chips, they collect dust only. That is why we can get away with it. If you scroll through the photos that are embedded in that original link, you will see what the intensions are of this tool and you will see how it was intended to be used. The shop vac just needs to be a fairly powerful one like the Ridgid units. The size does not matter. they show more of the pieces you can buy to compliment this articulating arm. As I said if you have a decent dust collector system (dust collector is different than shop vac system) then branching off it like they show will work but limited. They are not designed for small hoses like that. A shop vac is. All your questions are answered in that OP link. Just need to keep scrolling and following the questions asked and answers given and within them there are additional links to click on. You can see videos of it in action and all. It is pricey, but some woodworkers that I trust have given their approval on it so it does work. These have been sold at woodworking shows for awhile now.

Beautiful job by both of you, Great pattern and cutting. Jeff

Frame only here, tried putting them behind glass when I first started, didn't care for the look, really took away from the wood. Glassless is much better. Chris