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After seeing Ron Johnson's posting of toys I had to try my luck. Seeing his posing of the F-16 fighter jet I decided to make one for a nephew who is a pilot in this aircraft. Probably not the easiest pattern to choose for my first attempt, but I think it turned out OK. I am pleased with it, hopefully my nephew is and you are too. Jerry

Finally I have an opportunity to cut new projects by new scroll saw - Proxxon DS 230. In general, if you have a choice and financial opportunity, then I would not recommend this scroll saw, but at the moment for me it has some advantages. Anyway here is my first project in 2 year - 3D sphere. I hope such patterns will be popular: it looks unusual and eye-catching, interesting to assemble, it could be made of scraps of wood (as each piece is not large) and it could be assembled without glue. I plan to make more 3D geometric patterns, so what do you think of this project and such patterns? Video of making 3D sphere Pattern - https://alexfoxua.etsy.com

Hi Jerry: Sorry to say, I am not pleased with your project I'm sure you wanna know why It's because it's not on MY shelf. If I call you Uncle Jerry, can I have one? I will say, that it turned out great Well done, unlike me, your nephew will be pleased Have a nice day Fab4

This is Jim Blume's "Heading West" pattern that was designed to be 11X14. I decided to make it a little more challenging by cutting it into an 8X10. Baltic Birch stained Ipswich with a black backer and a Pine frame. Both cutting and frame were sprayed with several coats of Polyacrylic with light sanding between coats. This was a lot of fun to cut and surprisingly the reduced size didn't make it very difficult. Thanks, Jim, for another great pattern.

Spent sometime in the shop before golf start. Made a charcuterie board out of roasted maple and a few bowls out of left over wood.

Suffered an eye injury ~3 weeks ago. Debris blew up under my glasses when mulching on my 42" deck tractor mower deck. I have been pretty much blind in my left eye, due to corneal injury over the pupil area. It was like looking through a glass with thick petroleum jelly on it and darkened. The whole eye was bloody red. Quite a bit of pain came alongside that for well over a week. I was prescribed an ointment for my eye 3x/day and steroid drops 2x/day. I had my 3rd follow-up with my eye Doc today (went to urgent care when I was injured). My eye has finally superficially healed on the surface (that's good), and also improved 4 steps on the eye test this last week. Pressure also moved in the right direction. She was pleased that I turned the corner as she was concerned last week at the slow healing. Now comes the continued under-the-surface healing so we wait. Scheduled an appointment to be back in a month. No more steroids in the eye, however, the ointment is only 1x/day now... When I got home this morning after the appointment, I tried some scroll sawing I actually could see my lines! FINALLY!!! cut the remaining pieces and rattle can finished my 4-layer Memorial Day pieces, which I could not work on while I was blind. Gun, dog tags, boots, & helmet. When I tried working on it when I was first injured it was a major struggle and had to quit for a few weeks, did an hour on Sunday during my YT live stream, but that was a struggle... now it feels like I am almost back to normal. Not fun being blind in my eye, thankful, it was temporary. Ran out of black paint on one piece so I did not speckle it the way I wanted. Getting more tomorrow.

I was looking through woodcraft monthly sale today and noticed now they are offering lasers, I guess tools are changing, I am too old to learn, I have enough trouble doing what i have, RJ

I also find that blade slippage can be a problem. After I apply tension, I release tension and if there is a bow in the blade, the is blade slippage.

I recently had the table off of the saw, messing with the set screws on the blade holder. I betcha you a buck that I did not square it up properly. I'll square that bad boy up. Thanx for the replies.

I also have a Delta 40-694. Check to see if your table is square with the saw blade, a perfect 90 degrees. Don't feed too fast on that thick of wood. Hope that helps.

Hello, I am looking for a new scroll saw and I would like to ask, if someone in the community has experience with 30" scroll saws. I was thinking about buyint the Pégas 30" saw, but I don't know if the difference with the 21" worths the bigger price. Thank you for your comments.

#ArtisanPirate

Since so many of us seem to be fixated on dust, some might find this interesting. I noticed that the dust collector wasn't blowing air like it should, so I climbed up there and pulled the filter. I didn't change it for a new one, but I carefully took it outdoors and blew the dust off with my battery-powered blower. The blower is gentler than using my air compressor. I reinstalled the filter, and all is well. The fine secondary filters looked good, so I didn't touch them. They were still white.

Dog Puzzle - Rescue 3 pattern by Harvey Blyer. I used 3/4"Poplar approximately 6" x 8". I cut this at home on the EX21 using FD UR #3 blades. Yes, I still have some left over. Lighty sanded on the Mac Mop, dipped in diluted Shellac, and after dry, another light sanding. Comments welcome.

Welcome to the village. You will find lots of help here. One of the finest scoller and pattern maker is from Spain. Pedro from finescrollsaw.com. Amazing patterns.

I have the Wen also. I place a piece of blue tape on the bottom of the housing with the date of when I last cleaned the filter. I try to do it every month. I've had the Wen for about 2-3 years and have only replaced the outside filters once. The inside filter always looks pretty good. But I do lightly blow it when I clean the outside filter too.

I have a Delta 40-694 scroll saw. I recently cut some 1 in. Circles in 3/4 in pine and noticed that the "plug" of wood that I removed was tapered in a conical shape. It is not pronounced but I believe it tells me something is not right with my blade setup. Does anyone have any insight into what might need adjusting .....Thanx......forrest

Thanks.. I noticed that too after I did the post. I agree… hope she is well and scrolling.

Hi RJ: Your right, about the tools (AND METHOD) I think the best way to put it is: TO EACH HIS OWN, Fab4

An easy to check for the blade square to the table. Take a piece of scrap, I use at least ¾ , cut about a blades width into the wood. Pull it out, move it around to the back of the blade, if it's square the blade will slip right into the cut you made, if not it'll show which way and how much it's off.

if the "taper" is the same all the way around then I agree with others that the table is not at 90 degrees to the blade.. a nudge is all that it takes.

The three most important factors is 1: the blade must be perfectly square to the table. You need a small square to square up the table. A credit card will work in a pinch. 2: Tension. You need as much tension on the blade as you can get. You want to hear a high “ping” when you pluck the blade. You may need to clean off the tips of the thumb screws and the back up screw. 3: make sure you don’t apply lateral pressure on the blade when cutting. Look straight on the blade, if it is bending while making your turn, the cut will be beveled.

I used maple, yellow heart and blood wood, the only dark wood that you have to be careful of bleeding is Padauk

Steve Good Pattern, still need to clean up and fix the S and stain. Made for Hubby. He loves his coffee.

Dog Puzzle - Rescue 1 pattern by Harvey Blyer. I used 3/4"Poplar approximately 8" square. I cut this at home on the EX21 using FD UR #3 blades. Yes, I still have some left over. Lighty sanded on the Mac Mop, dipped in diluted Shellac, and after dry, another light sanding. Comments welcome.

I made wood-art pieces for a California friend of his beach house and the coast at Dillon's Beach.