Leaderboard

Here it is, finished and ready to hang on the wall. BTW, my wife has claimed it and it is to hang on our wall. Since I last posted about it, after many side-tracks and disruptions, I have encased it in clear epoxy, sanded and clear-coated it with lacquer. The wood is 3/8" mesquite and I used Pegas MGT blades, mostly #3. The finished product is roughly 7-1/2" H x 7-3/4" W. It was a fun project to cut although it took many hours. I had not originally planned to do the epoxy but the words at the bottom were fragile. There are several single bridges between the H, the N, the 3 and the 6. They broke and I had to glue them back together. You can probably see it if you look close enough. Now, with the epoxy, nothing is going to break. I will share the pattern if anyone is interested.

Was tired of the way my shop had been since we built it 11yrs ago, had a swing out table which blocked a lot of space, also making impossible to get to the cupboards behind it….my solution was to get rid of the swing out table, redo the bench behind it, and make a flat/level 4x4 assembly table…..put hardboard on the 4x4 table this morning and on the workbench on other side of 10x24 shop…..I’m very pleased with the way it turned out….see before and after pics.

Finally I have an opportunity to cut new projects by new scroll saw - Proxxon DS 230. In general, if you have a choice and financial opportunity, then I would not recommend this scroll saw, but at the moment for me it has some advantages. Anyway here is my first project in 2 year - 3D sphere. I hope such patterns will be popular: it looks unusual and eye-catching, interesting to assemble, it could be made of scraps of wood (as each piece is not large) and it could be assembled without glue. I plan to make more 3D geometric patterns, so what do you think of this project and such patterns? Video of making 3D sphere Pattern - https://alexfoxua.etsy.com

After seeing Ron Johnson's posting of toys I had to try my luck. Seeing his posing of the F-16 fighter jet I decided to make one for a nephew who is a pilot in this aircraft. Probably not the easiest pattern to choose for my first attempt, but I think it turned out OK. I am pleased with it, hopefully my nephew is and you are too. Jerry

This is Jim Blume's "Heading West" pattern that was designed to be 11X14. I decided to make it a little more challenging by cutting it into an 8X10. Baltic Birch stained Ipswich with a black backer and a Pine frame. Both cutting and frame were sprayed with several coats of Polyacrylic with light sanding between coats. This was a lot of fun to cut and surprisingly the reduced size didn't make it very difficult. Thanks, Jim, for another great pattern.

I have enough trouble fitting the wood between my gut and the blade on projects that fit my 21" saw. Can't imagine swinging a project large enough to require a 30" saw. I'd be so far away I couldn't see the blade.

Sure looks better.

I agree with both @Dak0ta52and @JTTHECLOCKMAN. I think space is very important and the sizes of your projects. When I started I got the EX21 (Canadian) which I love and still have but I did needed a bigger saw for my wood art and also I want to do mirrors as well. So I bought a Hawk G426 (26 inches) for a great used price.... which I also love but I did have to move my Lathe out of my small heated workroom to make room for my Hawk. But wow, if I could get a Pegas 30 that would be awesome! Everyone must really like them because I have only seen one used in all the years I have been looking and it was a small one. Good luck on your decision!

So much nicer....I am sure it will be more enjoyable opening the door to your shop and seeing such a great place to work. Congrats on a wonderful shop!

Now no one will be able to tell you what you should do because we have no idea what your intentions are. but we can mention the pros and cons. I do not have a 30" saw but have 2 RBI saws. a 220 and 226. The 226 does take up much more room as will the 30" If you have the room then that is a check in the +. I bought the 226 because I got a good deal and also I was making larger projects such as my mirrors. I was able to increase the size of those which made them more sales valuable. If you have plans for making larger projects than what you do now then put that in the + column. Now I found myself using the 220 much more than the 226 because it just felt more comfortable and yet both operate the same way. If you plan on keeping both saws you too will probably gravitate toward one saw over the other more. But if you want just one saw then you have to weigh the other +'s and see where they stack up. Good luck.

Barb, go to Amazon only $44.00 shipped to your door

Hello, I am looking for a new scroll saw and I would like to ask, if someone in the community has experience with 30" scroll saws. I was thinking about buyint the Pégas 30" saw, but I don't know if the difference with the 21" worths the bigger price. Thank you for your comments.

#ArtisanPirate

Spent sometime in the shop before golf start. Made a charcuterie board out of roasted maple and a few bowls out of left over wood.

The new Delta has the same set up as your King. Basically a grey colored DeWalt really. Unfortunately the Quickset blade clamps and the parts are no longer available.

I totally agree. I'm not a fan of the knobs on the King and all saws that use that blade holder which is why I so reluctant to move on from the P20. I know Delta has new models, haven't looked at them too serious, but I sure do like the blade holder!

Welcome to the Village from North Carolina. You'll find many various comments on the "best" saw. That will be reflected by each individual. I started with a $100 WEN that was very limited on features. After a year I purchased the 30-inch Pegas and discovered a whole new world of scroll sawing. When considering my purchase, I also looked strongly at the Seyco. The Seyco is an excellent saw and as many members here, I hope to own one in the future (in addition to the Pegas). Don't hesitate to ask questions and once you get started, please share pictures of your work. It is inspiring to see.

Welcome, Cassie, glad to have you joing the village. This is a starting place right here on this forum: https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/articles/beginner/ There a many good saws to choose from. Do you have a budget? Sometimes there are good deals on used ones to be found on Facebook Marker or Cragslist, but please ask here with the address of the listing before buying used or maybe any saw. Lots of experience here to suck info from. ALso search around for maybe a club near you.

Gwinnet Woodworkers Assoc. is located in Georgia. According to their website they offer Zoom classes. https://www.gwinnettwoodworkers.com/about-gwa

Hi Cassie, Greetings from Spain. I am also a newbie and I am also in the process of chosing a new saw. I know it will be a Pégas, I just have to decide if it will be a 21" or a 30". David

Thank everyone for your opinions and comments. I really appreciate it. I will be making a decision in the next days, so I will let you know. As some of you said, having enough room for such a big saw might be even a more important issue than the extra money. It's amazing finding so many people willing to help and giving their best advice.

99% of my projects could be done on a 16 inch and probably even a 14" saw.. I have two 26" saws and a 21 and 18" saw.. It is nice to be able to have the option for cutting very large projects.. it's also nice to have more shop space for other useful tools, especially if your space is limited. Everyone is going to have different opinions based on what projects they make. Largest projects I recall doing was a 4ft wide x 2ft tall sign.. I did this back when the only saw I had was a 20" Dewalt. Blades can be modified by bending the ends so you can cut from the side of the saw instead of in front.. Spiral blades are also quite helpful in large projects.. No more large projects I do I really could just have a 21" saw and make do with how I go about cutting a large project.. IF I was always doing large stuff then yes a large saw would be a must have.. Pattern designers typically design stuff that works on most standard sized saws. I personally think a 21" saw is plenty large enough to do most stuff comfortably anyway. I guess you have to figure out if the space is going to be an issue as well as the price of the saw going to be worth it for the amount of projects you'll do with that big of a saw is the bottom line. Another tool could be had for that extra cash and also could use the spot in the shop for that extra space too.. Also feel like the extra cost of the saw is lost IF/When it's time to sell it off.. They seem to sell harder and don't bring the cash that the cheaper smaller saw would. Something I've seen time and time again is when folks retire they decide to travel in a camper, sell homes to downsize etc.. Many of them ask questions about small lightweight saws so yet having to buy a smaller saw to downsize.. Just something else to think about.. I know my wife and I plan to do a little RVing and I intend to keep my small lightweight Hegner to take along. I can't imagine dragging my 26" Hawks around in a RV, LOL.. Not only is it heavy as crap.. I could put 3 hegners in the same spot that one Hawk takes up.

I do not know what filters the Wen uses. My Jet uses 12 x 24 x 1 filters and they are $7.78 each. They work well for me. HomeDepot has them for less. In case people are wondering, the chart shows what size particles each MERV rating captures. You could use a higher MERV rating filter at higher cost but probably will not result in a better result.

I will give you all my scraps if you make one for me.

An amazing alot of work! Very nice...

Jerry, that is a wonderful toy. I would love to see a picture of the side...do the wheels turn?...I also would love to have an Uncle like you! Very lucky nephew

A vast improvement for sure. I wish I had that much room. My problem is, when we moved in, the first thing I did was buy a stacked tool box and an 8 foot long maple topped work bench. I've tried thinking of how to change my shop around but as long as I have those two things, I can't do much. I wonder how others organize all their small hand tools. Wrenches, socket sets, pliers, screwdrivers etc. You did yourself a lot of good in how you've cleaned and organized. Hat's off to ya.

Much better. I wonder how it would work if you put wheels on your square table. This way to you roll it out of your way when needed.

They make a 16" saw, but only for the European market.

It is mini drill, I will make separate video review

I have a 21" Pegas which I bought from Denny at Artcrafters. I love the saw and I like doing business with Denny. As I understand it, the difference between the 2 saws is the depth of the throat and the size of the saw. The action and feel of the machine at the cutting end should be the same. I have limited space and sometimes think I would be better served with a smaller machine, maybe an 18" Pegas (if they made one).

That looks like mine. Thanks for the reminder to clean mine. The replacement cost (in dollars) is $90 for 2. I know the replacement cost (for health) is priceless.

I agree with everything @Dak0ta52 has said, I also had a 16” and the arm did not move. I bought a 30” a few years ago and I love it. I do cut fairly big projects, it’s nice not to be limited in the projects I choose.

I change the filter routinely in my shop on a Jet air filter.

I trim the inner cardboard 'frame' that is in a diamond shape. gives more area to collect dust and lets me get the vacuum nozzle in there to clean it when it's full to extend the life of the filter.

I have a piece of yarn hanging on the exit. As long as it blows straight out, I don't do anything.

I have a Pegas 30" I purchased from Denny (Artcraftersonline.com) and I love the saw. I typically cut portrait type wall hangers and having the saw 10-months now I haven't cut anything that would require the extra throat depth. However, I do have a pattern that will require the larger saw and plan to cut in the future. The way I looked at it was the difference in the cost was just a couple hundred dollars and the extra depth was there if I ever needed it. If I had any negative to say about the 30" would be lifting the arm. I can't say that it is any harder than it would be if it were the 21" saw because I've never cut on a 21" saw. My first saw was the WEN which only had a 16" throat and the upper arm did not lift. As with any piece of equipment I did have to make slight adjustments when I received the saw. Initially the upper arm would not stay raised when lifted. Also, the blade was set for very aggressive cutting. The adjustments for these corrections are clearly indicated in the manual and were very easy to fix. Finally, the saw is BIG!!! And Heavy! I mounted casters to my stand that aid in moving but have recently placed it in an area where it most likely will sit for now on. My shop is not climate controlled and I purchased a 6X8 popup greenhouse enclosure and a 1500 watt heater cuts the chill nicely. If you have the bucks, go for the extra throat depth. But make sure you have the space to set it up once it arrives. Give Denny a call. I'm sure he'll do you right on price.

I have no personal experience but I might just say, in your scrolling experience, have you ever had a need for a bigger saw? Do you ever make large projects? Have you ever had to NOT do a project because it was too big? For me, all the answers would be no. I have no need for a larger saw. But if you do signage, I can see where it might be useful. Just my 2 cents worth. And probably not worth that, even.

I also find that blade slippage can be a problem. After I apply tension, I release tension and if there is a bow in the blade, the is blade slippage.

Hi Jerry: Sorry to say, I am not pleased with your project I'm sure you wanna know why It's because it's not on MY shelf. If I call you Uncle Jerry, can I have one? I will say, that it turned out great Well done, unlike me, your nephew will be pleased Have a nice day Fab4

I recently had the table off of the saw, messing with the set screws on the blade holder. I betcha you a buck that I did not square it up properly. I'll square that bad boy up. Thanx for the replies.

David! You know me too well. I'd even ask for delivery.

if the "taper" is the same all the way around then I agree with others that the table is not at 90 degrees to the blade.. a nudge is all that it takes.

The three most important factors is 1: the blade must be perfectly square to the table. You need a small square to square up the table. A credit card will work in a pinch. 2: Tension. You need as much tension on the blade as you can get. You want to hear a high “ping” when you pluck the blade. You may need to clean off the tips of the thumb screws and the back up screw. 3: make sure you don’t apply lateral pressure on the blade when cutting. Look straight on the blade, if it is bending while making your turn, the cut will be beveled.

Yeah, I've sold a awful lot of ornaments over the last almost 20 years.. heck some have bulk ordered as many as 400 in one single order.. and I agree.. I get more people buying the light colored BBply ones over the hardwood one's back when I used to offer the options.. nobody was buying the hardwood ones so I kinda stopped offering them..

I've sold over 10,000 ornaments made of 1/16th inch Finnish Birch from Aircraft Spruce. I still use ones I made almost 20 years ago and they look perfect. I used to stack cut 10 at a time, but didn't like having to use a blade large enough for that. Now I usually do stack of 4 or 5, and use a Pegas modified geometry #1 blade. No fuzzies on the back to worry about. Some people don't think plywood looks nice enough, but I sell almost all of mine at high end wood galleries and their clients love them. I use no finish at all. Most are inset with 2mm gold beads to give extra sparkle. The wood is thin enough that they show from both sides. Simply drill a hole and press the bead in with a shaker peg. Very high tech! I've made some of hardwood, but they don't sell nearly as well. Plus, it has to be light wood such as maple for the pattern to show on a dark green tree.

I've cut many ornaments and have used both ply and hardwood. If the ornament pattern is very detailed and fragile, I go with 1/8" BB ply. Simpler ornaments with less fragile cross grain areas tend to get hardwood. I usually plane down to somewhere around 3/16". Like Dan said, 1/4" is too chunky and 1/8" is too thin & fragile for hardwood ornaments, IMHO. Lately I've been gravitating more toward the fragile, detailed ornaments, so I've been using a lot more ply. I don't think it detracts from the appearance, because there usually isn't enough of the wood left to see the color and grain pattern anyway. Also, if I want to spruce it up a little, I can add a little color and/or glitter to add visual interest. I've found that the ornaments I make from my favorite hardwoods like cherry & walnut, tend to disappear on the tree because they don't stand out like lighter colored woods or brightly painted/dyed ones.

Plywood gives strength. Going with thinner species stock will mean you will have to pay attention to the grain. I have cut hundreds of ornaments from 1/8" ply and there folks here using 1/16". Using good quality Baltic birch ply wakes all the difference as there generally no gaps or patches.

My mistake. I misremembered the pricing.