Leaderboard

Just finished this beautiful Russ Beard pattern of the Viking Girl, I double stacked them on 3mm Baltic Birch Plywood, cut entirely with a Niqua#1 Pin Less Blade, now to clean up, oil and frame. My wife Loraine has claimed these two as her own, who am I to argue.

This Sandhill Crane pattern is by Steve Good. There are two patterns and I call this one "B". I used 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood for all the pieces. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #1 MGT blades. After a light sanding, dipped in diluted Shellac and another light sanding. Comments welcome.

Springtime brings lots of birds to our backyard. I made this for my wife who is the bird lady of Moorpark!

I know you are anxious to get back to scrolling, but I wouldn't expect that you will be satisfied with this saw for very long, especially after having a Hegner. I say this, knowing nothing about the saw in the picture, but it looks similar to one I had was given a number of years ago. My primary saw was a Dewalt. I was looking for a 2nd saw that I could take with me for demonstrations. I was given one for free. It was a Performax brand. I had heard of Performax and thought it would be a decent saw. It wasn't. It was just one of those cheap entry level, $100 saws that were available in many different colors, under many different brand names. I ended up giving it back because I just could not use this saw. The reasons are many and I have no idea if your new saw shares any of the same faults, but I wouldn't be surprised. I truly wish you luck with this saw. I'm sorry your Hegner was stolen. That is a real bummer. You may be able to grit your teeth and make this one work for you, at least for a while, but I suspect you will need to start saving for a better one.

I have shown this before but it is sitting close by and I thought it really looked like spring. And I have a real urge to make some birdhouses of I purchased some cedar boards a couple days age. Little late for this years brood of babies but start for next spring.

Chris, some people have all the luck. Nice find. Jerry

Hallo ounce again I need the Village expert opinions sense I lost my Hegner Multicut to thief’s I have to get a new scrollsaw but I am forced to get it on a very small budget, and I was offered one for free so far so good. I now it’s one of all of whose that are made under a number of different names but I can’t be picky if I want a new saw. It’s the one on the picture, here with the name it had I Sweden, so can the experts here tell me if it’s any good for hobby work considering the price, mostly puzzles and different decorations not so much fretwork?

I think the tension knob is in a very inconvenient place. If you aren't in a hurry, I'd wait for something better. Sorry to hear of the thievery. It seems to be happening everywhere.

What is the saying "patience is virtue"

What I can see from the picture, it uses pinned blades. Those are typically pretty large; I'm thinking too big for puzzles. Larger decorations that can handle the larger hole required for the blade would be ok.

Thank you, they are Russ Beard Patterns he did them last year, if you are a member of Scroll Saw Patterns and More you can go to the group and under headings/files you can scroll down until you find them.

Thanks Barb, I was gifted a gross Niqua #1 Pin Less Blades so I’m happy.

I've actually been wanting one of these since 2000. I never had the funds to afford a new one so I was always on the lookout for a used one. With cell phones, Facebook and marketplace, the search got easier but never in my area. When this popped up on my feed you could have knocked me over with a feather. Kept checking it thru the day to see if it was a fluke. Finally messaged the guy. When I went to get it he told me I was the first to respond and it had been listed for 7 days. Truly my lucky day!!!

Hawk, congrads on the new saw, now Hawk has a hawk, RJ

They didn't make the front to back blade adjustment in the "Ultra" version other than the two positions for the blade chuck to fit in on the lower arm. The ones with the allen screw in the end of the lower arm for adjusting front to back blade movement is the G4 or newer saws.. My BM26 is that way.. also those have the lower arm protrude through the angle mechanism and the blade sits out in front of the angle mechanism so you get the pleasure of wearing the sawdust you make on your lap instead of on top of the saws stand or in your case in the funnel.. BTW, those two positions for the blade chuck to set in on the lower arm.. one closest to the front of the saw is for less aggressive of a cut typically for cutting thin stock and the next position back is for a more aggressive cut for thicker stock.. I mostly only use the front most position because this is a more straighter up / down blade angle for a more square cut.. For me the slot for the thicker wood or the rearmost position if you're cutting thicker stock sometimes the corners don't cut square.. If you make those 3/4" thick dog puzzles the pieces won't slide together correctly if you use that rearmost position. At least that is what I've experienced

LOL, that's what I was thinking, kinda funny when you think about it. Heading over in about an hour to check it out.

Good, keep us posted, so then it will be Hawk got a hawk, RJ

Welcome to the group and the Hobby! Good start with your saw selection. I also have a digital embroidery machine and other "toys" Not all blades cut to the side, You have a great saw. I suggest getting blade assortments to try. The Olson blades I used for my detailed ornaments Olson 2/0 R 28 TPI (teeth per inch) cut off to my right dramatically, I learned to compensate by sitting off to the side a bit. I now mostly use Pegas blades. With time and experience you will find your 'Comfort blades".