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The finished Bobcat pattern by Gayle at Scroll Saw Cafe forum. I used 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood 11" x 14". Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #0 Spiral blades. After sanding with a Sand Flee, dipped in diluted Shellac and three coats of spray Lacquer with sanding between coats. Framed at ArtCrafters. Comments welcome.

Here's my take on the "man in the maize", but as coasters. These are for High School friends.

Spring means butterflies and picnics. Started another butterfly project but not finished yet. The picnic basket was donated to a local veterans support organization for a silent auction.

This is a Sue Mey pattern a bought awhile ago, several people like it before so i stack cut 4 more, painted with mica powder, then put alcohol ink colored epoxy resin in the cuts I made

This is my latest Intarsia piece. Pattern found in the issue # 54 of Scrollsaw Woodworking & Crafts magazine, designer Gary MacKay. Woods used Tigerwood, Maple, Canarywood, Quilted Maple, Sapelle. One generous coat of shellac. Used many #5 MG blades.

Completed the frames yesterday made from Imported Malaysian Meranti, finish is BLO/ Mineral Spirits mixture, very happy with the results, just needs the non reflective Plexiglass and then they can be mounted in the lounge.

Thanks for pointing that out. It. Does look like something was spilled over it or something. I wrote and asked him. While help determine if it is a legit post.

Sorry to hear about all the bad luck going through your homestead.. Never a good time for anything to wear out, give out, and just plain breakdown. I've also been dealing with a lot of just old worn out things giving me troubles from mowers, trimmers, cars and washer and dryers.. on a more positive note... hopefully the new replacements should last until I get some cash on hand again.. but man it sure has been one heck of a year for us.. IF I could have gotten the parts for the washer / dryer I might have rebuilt it again.. They were both here in my house when I bought it 32 years ago and old and worn out then.. I took them both apart and rebuilt them way back when.. and now the parts was just not available so we bought new.. That is the G4 Hawk and looks like a nice saw.. that said the paint on the stand etc. looks off to me.. looks like it had a crappy repaint maybe or something spilled on it? Looks like some sort of wrinkle finish compared to all the other Hawk saws I've seen so passing on it might not be a bad idea anyway. Never know if someone was trying to cover up something with the wrong type of paint or if some chemical spilled on it it could have gotten into the electronics and did some damage there that may not show up until you get it home and start using it. As far away as it is and judging the photos I think maybe passing on it is what I would do.. One will pop up at the right time that is maybe a better deal and or closer to home for you sooner or later.

I just started to cut some wood and try my new Pégas. Where I live I have a rich source of pine wood and these have been the first pieces I tried. I just wanted to know your experience with this kind of wood (I guess it's kind of medium soft). The thing is that I have been having some issues cutting 8/6 and 8/8 in. (2,5 - 3,5 cm) with modified geometry blades #9 and Skip reverse #9. I am not sure if it's normal and what is your experience with this thickness. What kind of blades would you recommend? Thanks for your help.

Very nice, RJ

I have a Delta 40-690. I suggest loosing the screw on the left side near the back of the arm just a bit. That will allow the arm to rest naturally.

What type of pattern are you cutting? Blade choice is determined by pattern, wood type, and thickness. I don’t generally choose pine.

Very different! Well done.

Just getting back into the shop after a lengtly absence. We were away on a long cruise. Then I needed to complete two significant yard projects. On top of all that I have been suffering with a stomach bug for over three weeks. However, when possible I have been doing some cutting on a multi-part project, but I had to interrupt it to do this Abstract Art piece that I found on-line as a free .SVG download. I still needed to do a little tweeking to make it work as a 12’ x 18” Scroll Saw pattern. Cutting the 5/32” solid core ply was very easy using a Pegas #1 Mgt R blade. All coloring was done with an Air Brush using Artist Acrylic Air Brush Paints. Due to the many different colors the painting and finishing time was long. Dry time…ugh! Typical 1/4" ply backer. The frame is a 3/4” wide rail Gallery Style Floating Frame, painted Silver. There are a lot of shadows in the photo and the color of the frame is washed out. It looks a lot better when hanging on a wall and viewed from the normal four feet away. I’ll post the pattern in Pattern Exchange for anyone who would like it.

Very cool!

nice work

I agree with Don #9 blade is way to big for pine and most of the cutting on a scrollsaw in my opinion

I agree with Witchman on the Polar blades. If you are attached to Pegas blades I have used Pegas skip tooth blades (#6) with success when cutting 1 1/2 ornaments. I think the issue is the reverse as it does not clear the saw dust as well. With cutting pine it is soft and sometimes the grain will make you go off the line. When cutting cutting thicker pine I will use a smaller blade like a #5 or even #3. You just have to slow down the feed rate. A #9 will tend to grab the wood more.

Thanks, I am totally new to scroll sawing and I guess that most of my problems are not related to the type of wood or blades, but to my lack of skills. I guess that patience and practice might do the job. I am using Pégas blades. I am afraid I can't get here some Polar blades to give them a try, so probably I will have to attach to the Pégas.

A few new projects. The animal pics are going to be donated to The Farmer's House, a local non-profit which helps prepare mentally challenged individuals for integration into the community.

I've used pine and redwood to make compound cut ornaments 1 1/2" x 1 1/2". The thin dark lines are significantly harder than the wider lighter wood, this can throw off your cutting because the blade will want to follow the softer wood, the blades can bend inside the wood and create a curved cut inside the vertical kerf. Adding tension can help as well as increasing your speed a little. Using skip tooth blades will help as well. My blade of choice is FD Polar, these blades are stiffer than others and resist the side flex better than the other blades that I have tried.

Something is telling me. NO! Everything I get myself talked into something comes up, saying NO! Two weeks ago our range died. Despite all my son's, YouTube's and my efforts we could not revive it. So, now we are shopping for a new range. Last week I had to have a repair done to our 15-year-old Camry. That was $500+. And a few weeks ago we ordered a new couch. Ours was warn clear through. So although I would love to, I do not feel I can. Plus it is over 300 miles from me, which would not stop me if I didn't have these other unplanned expenses.

Wow Barb you out did yourself on this one. Fine work!

Chris, I’m in a basement shop so I don’t have to worry about cold or warm outside. I don’t know for sure, but I would think that condensation on tools would be a problem constantly going from freezing to comfortable warm and back to freezing. Just my thoughts.

Everything has a life span, I am hoping that mine isn't going to start falling apart, RJ PS good to see you Kevin