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I just converted my fluorescent shop lights to LEDs. Love it.

The simple line drawings of RED LIP LADIES IN HATS are prolific online and most are stock images that cost little or nothing to obtain. There are also a lot the simple line drawings of RED LIP LADIES and RED WINE. With only minor conversion work needed, using Inkscape to make scrollable patterns from these simple line drawings is a snap. The patterns were each designed for an 11x14 panel. However, for these projects I printed them out scaled down in Adobe to fit 8x10 panels. As usual, the cut panels are 5/32” Maple Solid Core Ply and backers are 1/4” BB Ply. The backers were painted Black with, of course, Red for lips, accessories, fingernails, and wine. And, as usual, painting was done with an Air Brush using Artist Acrylic Air Brush Paints. Although the individual panels were rather simple cuts, using mainly Pegas #2/0 spiral blades and Pegas #1 MGT R blades for the smooth long cuts, the 10 panels did take quite a while to complete. Handling each individually, from start to finish, was quite time consuming. Then there was my choice to make gang frames. IMHO, the smaller panels look better in narrow rail frames, especially when ganged. Although all the construction is like what I do when I make my standard 1 3/4” wide rail frames, the narrow rails are difficult work with. This added a lot of time to the project. The frames were primed and painted Matt Black. Between our cruise, major yard projects, dealing with a stomach bug, and slipping in the Abstract Art Cat and Dog cuttings, this is the results of what has been occupying my shop time over the past few weeks. Comments and critiques always welcome.

OK, just could not leave it with just a Cat (see my post ‘Cat Picasso Style Abstract’), I had to make a Dog. No free SVG file this time, so I had to develop my own pattern from an Abstract Pop Art image I found on-line. Tried to stay away from any specific breed. This time the panel is 12” by 16”. Otherwise, all information is the same as the Cat so no need to repeat here. I will just say, although the finish product is striking, I will not be inclined to do more like these too soon. Although the cutting is quite simple, painting the colors is a SPITA. I’ll post the pattern in Pattern Exchange. Maybe some out there who like to do segmental type panels can adopt the pattern for such. Painting individual pieces would be much simpler and, the end result should be just as striking.

My All Time Favorite Action Hero Is 94 Years Young Today!

The board is walnut and poplar, and the pieces are maple and a giant stump I picked up off the curb, no idea what it is

Beautiful pieces, RJ

Real nice setup, RJ

Kevin, thx for the info. That doesn't seem to bad of a price to get started, I don't do too much scroll saw work, its just a hobby for me, I may be asking more questions down the road, Thx RJ

My method that I have been using for a long time is a combination of a few mentioned already. I always use blue painters tape under my patterns for I find it easy to peel that off than any pattern stuck to wood. If the pattern being cut is very delicate I will switch to a less adhesive tape such as purple or green but process remains the same. When stack cutting I put blue tape on top and bottom of wood that is the middle of the layer. I then use spray adhesive 3M77 on a sheet of plain white copy paper both sides and place that between the layers on top of the blue tape. I rinse and repeat for as many layers as I am cutting. Usually no more that 4 if thin 3/32" When everything is all lined up the stack does not move and I do not worry about hitting nails or pieces sliding around. After cut out I gently peel everything off. If I need to some Mineral spirits or DNA works well to get any residue or small bits of tape off. Works well for me. Just my method, not sure where I picked that tip up years ago from. I think someone here suggested the last time I mentioned this method and asked why not just spray the tape and not use the white paper. My answer to that is overspray on project and it is alot easier taking the paper off the tape. I practically falls off without much effort and yet is strong enough to keep everything aligned as cut. Good luck.

I have used all the methods mentioned so far here's my take (for what it's worth) pin nails Pro: very good at holding the stack and keeping it from moving. Con; have to have or buy a pin nailer, I use hardwood and the pins would bend inside the wood and be in the pattern line ( this is very bad for the blades) double sided tape Pro: works well, adds lubrication to the blades Con: removing the tape can be problematic, wood fibers may come off with the tape. Hot glue: Pro: works well Con: I've have one or more layers come loose in one or more areas around the piece Blue painters tape Pro: works well Con: can't see wood grain through the tape. If your'e using BB plywood this is probably not a concern Packing tape Pro: works well, can see grain Con: packing tape can be a real pain if you have issues with static electricity, the adhesive can be wildly different between batches/manufactures ( The roll I'm using right now has to be cleaned with acetone, MS just won't dissolve the residue ). My current system: Cover top and bottom with clear shelf liner, packing tape to hold the stack. Pilot hole for the outside cut and enough room around the pattern so that the waste area keeps the layers of the pattern locked in place as the ouside is cut. I have recently cut 5 layers of 1/8 BB plywood for ornaments, using 2/0 blades. The stack limit is the length of the small drill bits. I did try putting wax paper between each layer (for lubrication), but I didn't notice any difference.

I have used dab of glue around the edges, pin nailers, and or tape to hold things together. They all work, lately my my go too method is using blue painters tape.

You must find a way to start hanging your art from the ceiling. You are out of wall space. Nice shop.

Great pieces.

Another great project. Thanks Frank.

awesome work

Nice looking shop Charlie. I see you have been busy with the scroll saw!

Very cool Frank! And quite striking in those frames! I did the search on "red lip ladies in hats line drawings" and found endless line drawings which are almost scroll ready. Likewise for "RED LIP LADIES and RED WINE line drawings".

Exactly as I do!

The real requirement is to ensure that none of the layers move while cutting - not even a little bit. Don't ask me how I know this. I have used all the techniques mentioned except the ones about double layer tape and screws in the waste area. I am currently working on a 2-layer stack using wood glue in the waste area - just be very careful not to get any in the pattern area. (I don't think I will do it this way again.) I would be concerned about using blue painter's tape for a stack of 3 or more as the stack could shift. Think of cutting a pattern part way, then lifting and moving the pattern and finishing the cut. That is effectively what happens to the lower layers when the stack shifts.

Another vote for hot glue. Clamp the stack and dabs of hot glue around the edges. Just make sure the glue doesn't protrude below the bottom layer. (Doesn't slide really good on the table)

I stack cut a lot. I use a hot glue gun. A narrow bead on all 4 edges.

I started getting interested in cars when I was about 13. For a couple of years I really enjoyed Hot Rod magazine. When I got my first car at 17 I wanted a hot rod, but dad so no way. He did, however, but me really nice 1950 Ford. Drove that car for 7 years. Now, at 84, I got my first hot rod even if I did have to build it my self. This is cut out of Oak and Walnut. I started cutting using a Pegas #7 MGT blade. The cutting was tough, so I tried a Pegas #9 blade. Man, what a difference. First time I used any #9 blade for cutting. Hope you enjoy my first hot rod. Stained with MinWax Ipswich Pine, 3 coats of Deft clear gloss wood finish.

But you forgot the red lipped cowgirl !! Nice project. The ganged panel makes it standout more. Plus you can up the cost. Maybe some wine tasting room will purchase it. Me. Mark Eason

Tape around the edges is what I do most.. I have also used screws in the waste areas and then take them out to reuse again.. just make sure they don't poke through the back side and scratch the saw table all up. I also and more now than ever use a pin nailer.. again.. be sure they don't poke through the back. I've read where some use hot glue around the edges. Gotta be careful with double sided tapes as they might peel up some larger wood fibers and create a problem..

I did some bookmarks using 1/32" plywood and held them together by wrapping them with blue painter's tape. Worked real well. I think I did about 8 at a time using a #2 blade. Tom

Looks more like a museum.

WOW Charlie, quite a shop. Nice panorama. Jerry

I've never tried stack cutting. But I want to do some bookmarks. What is the best way to hold the layers together. I was thinking double sided tape, but maybe there's a better option. Thanks.

My boss took these great pics and has given his blessing for anyone to make patterns for scroll and intarsia. No limit he would like to see any results posted here.

OMG!! What must it be like to have all that space?

I mean... if you're going to stir the pot I'm going to stir it right back.

Had done that one earlier as 11x14. Eventhoug it would go with the HATs, i did not want to redo as an 8x10.

That's different but nice, RJ

nice shop

very nice

Yes, both my lasers are like the one I showed.. then my other one is a attachment that mounts into the router on my CNC router which is a Nextwave Shark HD4 but the one for my router is very low powered.. It came with my CNC and I've never even tried it.. LOL Mine will cut 1/4" but it depends on the density of the ply.. sometimes you have to run it 2 and sometimes even 3 times to get it to cut through if using the good 5 ply BBplywood.. Cuts through 1/8 pretty easy though, and will cut through 1/4 of the cheaper plys pretty decent too. How it's tuned makes a huge difference as to how well it cuts too. Think of a magnifying glass in the sun if you get it focused just right you can set things on fire.. but if the focus isn't good it isn't quite as hot.. lasers work in that same kind of principal.. You don't want to cut if you don't have air assist and most the smaller lasers didn't use to come with it but it is easily added. I added that stuff to mine.. some of the newer ones come with air assist.. Air assist kind of works along the same principal of a oxy acetylene torch cutting metal.. get it hot and then blow the air and it cuts, without air assist you might just set the wood on fire, LOL.. Anyone with a laser should be prepared with a fire extinguisher close by.. never know when something might jam up on the laser and it just keeps firing the laser in the same spot.. don't take long to get a fire started. LOL

Kevin, is that the laser you have, can it cut 1/4 inch wood, thx RJ

Real eye catching stuff! You’re right, segmented would be much easier and still look good. Like the colors a lot.

Nice photos.. I think these would make great photo jigsaw puzzles as well.. always wanted to do these types of puzzles but back then I didn't have a good camera and never knew where to get royalty free photos.. now I have a nice camera but my printer is only black and white..

WOW Frank. They all look great. Simple beauty. The frames really add to the display. These should be hanging in a art museum. If there is one you don't like let me know, I will take it off your hands. Jerry

How did you know that is me behind the wheel. Kinda cute, huh.