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I’ve been wanting to do this one for quite a while. Very fun pattern by Botas Helder. Planning to do a few more similar patterns to go over my grill. The barn door is from a century old barn from my wife’s family.

That is a very good price for that planner which is one of the best on the market these days. You can also get that price on Amazon for a limited time offer too if interested. It is a $700+ planner. I could never do without my planner. But as I have been accused here of talking about my tools as the best which is far from the truth, but what I do have is basically a full workshop of woodworking tools because I find each tool weather a planner or a drum sander or a bandsaw or good tablesaw they played a huge role in my scrollsawing business through the years. What I spend on tools can be made back in some form with being able to work rough sawn lumber. I am fortunate to have had a very good lumber mill where I bought both exotic woods and domestic woods over the years for good pricing. They closed due to a fire about 10 years ago now but have other sources that took their place. Now my scrollsawing has taken me through the years with making larger projects that took all sized lumber. I suppose if you do ornaments and smaller scrolling then larger tools are just not needed. But if you are into milling your own lumber it is imperative to have good quality tools and that Dewalt planner is one of those tools. yes making large purchases like that take some careful thought because of the risks and rewards. If you can find the budget it could pay off but again if you are dealing with Baltic Birch plywoods and smaller projects then it is a tougher decision. But you can check any of the woodworking sites or any reviews on that planner and it gets high marks. Good luck. (one other note, if you ever sell the shop you will get money back on that planner.)

I just converted my fluorescent shop lights to LEDs. Love it.

An Alex Fox modified pattern. I used 1/4" solid Walnut 8" square. Rather than cutting 12 rings, I cut 7 rings leaving a wider base. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #1 MGT blades. After sanding and dipping in diluted Shellac, two coats spray Lacquer Clear Gloss and sanding between coats. Comments welcome.

Steve Good pattern catalog, search "jewelry tray"

It doesn't really take all that long for the glue gun to heat up. I usually work on organizing stacks of blanks, applying patterns and clamping them together while it's heating up and by the time I'm ready for it, it's ready to rock. I actually have a couple of them. One takes the mini glue sticks and the other takes larger ones. I didn't buy them for scroll sawing, but that is what their primary use is these days. From some of the comments I've read, I think there may be a mis-understanding on how the hot glue is applied, not from Kevin's reply, but from others over the years. The hot glue is not applied between the layers. It's applied in strips, across the edges of the stack. All pieces in the stack need to be the same size, so that the edges all line up. It does not cause any gaps between layers. It merely holds the edges together, sort of like the binding on a book. I use this technique mostly when I'm cutting Christmas ornaments. I'll place patterns for multiple ornaments on the blank. Most of the time, the edge of the blank is not part of the pattern and gets cut away. I do not cut into any edge from the outside, until I've made all the internal cuts and have freed the finished pieces from the stack. That way the stack stays together throughout all the cutting.

I won't add any "this is what I do" but I will say DON'T use double sided tape on small delicate cuts. I tried it on a Tree of Life. Made some great designer work!! The tape was so strong it broke off leaves as I separated the pieces.

I stack cut a lot. I use a hot glue gun. A narrow bead on all 4 edges.

I did some bookmarks using 1/32" plywood and held them together by wrapping them with blue painter's tape. Worked real well. I think I did about 8 at a time using a #2 blade. Tom

Hi villagers.. I just got done with a small 4 inch logo. My daughter in law has set up her practice for therapy called "Three Feathers Therapy". This her logo.. This is my small 4 inch plaque. Made from Butternut wood. Wow that is soft wood. 2/0 spiral blade was used. She did not mind to add a bit of tint to the wood. I played with my green and orange transtint dye. Butternut wood did pretty well with green and orange. The middle feather I used water-based stain Provential brown. Very diluted, just to get the tan effect. The 3 bigger stand alone feathers : ( left to right) are oak, olive, canarywood. The oak did not do well with green dye after the finish darkened the oak. Olive is so pretty no tint was needed. Canarywood is orange enough with no stain. The off angle pic has a better angle to show green tint. This angle also shows that I added texture to the edge of the feathers. Spiral blade with slight pressure changes left to right. Lessons learned: Butternut wood is soft. Leaves fibers behind. Breaks easily. "feothors" now has a definition. Scollsawyers need therapy when using butternut. Olive smells like olive oil when cutting. Olivewood is my favorite wood due to smooth creamy patterns. It is hard to find good uses for olivewood to show off the grain patterns. Canarywood wood smells fruity. Nice orange color after an oil based finish. Nice to play with. Me. Mark Eason

The board is walnut and poplar, and the pieces are maple and a giant stump I picked up off the curb, no idea what it is

Whoever is in charge of paint should be moved to customer service. Just sayin.....

Interesting, because I've had several "older " Hawks and when looking to buy them also seen many many photos and saws in person.. for at least the last 12 years.. that is the first saw I've seen paint like this. Whatever paint / powder coat they use is very good stuff as it doesn't scratch or fade very easily so most of the Hawk saws still "look" very well, even those from the early 80's still look new. Hegner could take lessons from Hawk in the paint / coating department for sure.. EDIT To Add: That is a G4 saw if memory serves right so it's not "that" old since the G4 came out around 2005.. My two saw a 1993 and a 1998 look just as good as the 2017 I purchased new.. The 93 was not taken very good care of and was used a lot.. many worn parts on it when I got it so i had to totally rebuilt that saw.

Hi everyone, I made this a while back and I want to malke another one twice the size but I can't find the pattern. I think it was a Steve Good pattern but I looked on his site but I can't bring it up because I don't know what he calls it. It;s a two piece pattern and I need it to be 12 inches across. Thanks for the help.

Thanks Paul.

Well I'll be! You did sneek it in. Not bad looking either!

Well I did finally get a response from Hawk. Not from their contact method on their website but from their FaceBook page. This it what the response if from them: If that is an older stand, It sure was well cared for. I don't see a scratch on it. Mystery. I did message the owner and ask for a serial number, no response so far.

Wow! Very impressive shop! Wondering where you store the wood and what you use to cut it. I did zoom in very close. Lots of famous people but I didn't find a self portrait?

Nice shop. Wish mine was that organized. I always put everything where I know I won't remember.

I assumed that all the sizes would need to be the same.. that has always been the case for taping around the edges too. I ended up with a lot of oddball sizes a few years ago and that is actually why / when I bought the pin nailer.. quicker than screws and the pieces can be all different sizes.. that is actually what started the pin nailer method.. It has paid for itself just using up all those oddball pieces I had. There was a large lawn cart and two wheelbarrows stacked full of oddball sizes that was too large to just toss out but not the standard blank size I used and most was not the same size as any of the other pieces for a stack.

I love it. I want to do both the dog and the cat. They will brighten up a room.

Like Bill said, we all work differently and one method doesn't work well for one or another.. I've never tried the hot glue method.. but many here have said that's how they do it which is interesting to me. Someone mentioned the pin nailer having to get one and many of the lower cost ones require a air compressor etc.. Being I'm usually in the mindframe of production cutting and do mostly stack cutting between 4 and 6 to a stack for the past 15 years.. my most used method was always tape around the edges.. IF you make sure to have the stack held together very tight and make the tape go over the edges tightly etc etc.. it has always worked very well for me.. I usually use shelf liner on the top layer and have my pattern already glued onto the top layer before taping the stack together.. this way peeling it back off is easy other than the very bottom piece but that is on the back side anyway so it could be sanded off etc. if needed.. I usually use clear packing tape as it is thinner than most of the painters tape.. The pin nailer work really well for me too for large projects.. as it keeps the middle of the stack good and tight.. I've not had any issues with that method either but I also have a small die grinder that I'll quickly use to grind down the pin nails so they won't scratch the table top etc. I could see myself a bit annoyed with the glue gun method as I'd have to wait for it to warm up to work.. I suppose if I planned it right and plugged it in while prepping the pattern etc.. that'd probably work well to once I got the system down. I've been using the tape for so many years without issues that sometimes if in a rush I don't bother and just use tape.. on occasion with big projects and the middle does start bouncing around I'll drive a screw or pin nail in a waste area just to help out. Anyway, I think I'll gift the glue gun method a try one of these days.. maybe I'll start a new method or maybe I'll hate it and continue what I've always done. I'm not one of those that my way is the way it has to be done and open to trying new ways.. This topic has been interesting to me to see how many are using the glue gun.. so I have to try it.

He looks fabulous. Awesome work. Marg

Original Carousel Horses are all carved from Basswood and they are painted. Some have been stripped and re-painted many times to refresh their appearance. I have never been involved in this, so I can't offer any advice, except to suggest that you should do some research into how they do it. Charley

I have used almost everything and settled on wood glue in the waste area. It is cheaper than all the others. It doesn't leave a gap between the layers like double-sided tape or hot glue. Downsides: You need to clamp it long enough to cure the glue. I use Titebond II and let it set in the clamps for at least 20 minutes before cutting. You must be careful about how much glue you use and locate the glue far enough away from the cut so you don't glue the pieces together. Little dots of glue around the edges are all that is needed.

My method that I have been using for a long time is a combination of a few mentioned already. I always use blue painters tape under my patterns for I find it easy to peel that off than any pattern stuck to wood. If the pattern being cut is very delicate I will switch to a less adhesive tape such as purple or green but process remains the same. When stack cutting I put blue tape on top and bottom of wood that is the middle of the layer. I then use spray adhesive 3M77 on a sheet of plain white copy paper both sides and place that between the layers on top of the blue tape. I rinse and repeat for as many layers as I am cutting. Usually no more that 4 if thin 3/32" When everything is all lined up the stack does not move and I do not worry about hitting nails or pieces sliding around. After cut out I gently peel everything off. If I need to some Mineral spirits or DNA works well to get any residue or small bits of tape off. Works well for me. Just my method, not sure where I picked that tip up years ago from. I think someone here suggested the last time I mentioned this method and asked why not just spray the tape and not use the white paper. My answer to that is overspray on project and it is alot easier taking the paper off the tape. I practically falls off without much effort and yet is strong enough to keep everything aligned as cut. Good luck.

I have used all the methods mentioned so far here's my take (for what it's worth) pin nails Pro: very good at holding the stack and keeping it from moving. Con; have to have or buy a pin nailer, I use hardwood and the pins would bend inside the wood and be in the pattern line ( this is very bad for the blades) double sided tape Pro: works well, adds lubrication to the blades Con: removing the tape can be problematic, wood fibers may come off with the tape. Hot glue: Pro: works well Con: I've have one or more layers come loose in one or more areas around the piece Blue painters tape Pro: works well Con: can't see wood grain through the tape. If your'e using BB plywood this is probably not a concern Packing tape Pro: works well, can see grain Con: packing tape can be a real pain if you have issues with static electricity, the adhesive can be wildly different between batches/manufactures ( The roll I'm using right now has to be cleaned with acetone, MS just won't dissolve the residue ). My current system: Cover top and bottom with clear shelf liner, packing tape to hold the stack. Pilot hole for the outside cut and enough room around the pattern so that the waste area keeps the layers of the pattern locked in place as the ouside is cut. I have recently cut 5 layers of 1/8 BB plywood for ornaments, using 2/0 blades. The stack limit is the length of the small drill bits. I did try putting wax paper between each layer (for lubrication), but I didn't notice any difference.

I have used dab of glue around the edges, pin nailers, and or tape to hold things together. They all work, lately my my go too method is using blue painters tape.

Exactly as I do!

The real requirement is to ensure that none of the layers move while cutting - not even a little bit. Don't ask me how I know this. I have used all the techniques mentioned except the ones about double layer tape and screws in the waste area. I am currently working on a 2-layer stack using wood glue in the waste area - just be very careful not to get any in the pattern area. (I don't think I will do it this way again.) I would be concerned about using blue painter's tape for a stack of 3 or more as the stack could shift. Think of cutting a pattern part way, then lifting and moving the pattern and finishing the cut. That is effectively what happens to the lower layers when the stack shifts.

Another vote for hot glue. Clamp the stack and dabs of hot glue around the edges. Just make sure the glue doesn't protrude below the bottom layer. (Doesn't slide really good on the table)

Tape around the edges is what I do most.. I have also used screws in the waste areas and then take them out to reuse again.. just make sure they don't poke through the back side and scratch the saw table all up. I also and more now than ever use a pin nailer.. again.. be sure they don't poke through the back. I've read where some use hot glue around the edges. Gotta be careful with double sided tapes as they might peel up some larger wood fibers and create a problem..

The finished Bobcat pattern by Gayle at Scroll Saw Cafe forum. I used 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood 11" x 14". Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #0 Spiral blades. After sanding with a Sand Flee, dipped in diluted Shellac and three coats of spray Lacquer with sanding between coats. Framed at ArtCrafters. Comments welcome.