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Well, since I really don't a bunch of time to get this right.. even though I started this idea / project over a month ago.. custom orders and life have taken a lot of time up that I normally would have been done with this by now.. Anyway, today I just did the pattern design in my CNC software and since we want to "paint" the carved areas and then topcoat it, it works best to "seal" the wood before carving with whatever finish I'm going to use and then seal the carved area with another couple coats, then use the acrylic craft paints on the carved area then I seal it all up again. Not knowing how these other finishes will work with the craft paints etc. in this process and being somewhat limited in time I went ahead and sprayed the gloss spar varnish stuff I've used in the past on it for the first couple coats to seal it up.. SO, I guess I've made my decision up.. Still very interested in options / opinions for future projects I will be doing some more of these natural edged slabs since i have quite a large pile of them.. Most are Walnut but have many other varieties too. This is somewhat how the design will look carved out of the one upper corner of the slab. It'll be the upper left with the white edge below it.. trying to put the carve in the less grain area if that makes any sense, LOL In the first photo it'll be in the farther corner closer to the bike tire.

This is for my daughter's graduation. My apologies for the long read....It certainly took me multiple tries and a long time to create this. I used maple and walnut for the keys with black wood veneer turned sideways (the keys are 5/8 thick). The mahogany and walnut stripes are also 5/8 and were stack-cut on the Hawk G4 so the pieces could fit together when I separated them. I also used the veneer turned sideways to take up the kurf.... I made the ornament on top and the ones inside the box on my EX 21. I also cut a thin piece of walnut for the under side of the top since I didn't want the piano keys to show when you open it.. I polished it to a high gloss. The bottom was all walnut and I purple floxed the inside. The music box was a challenge since it came out of an antique powder box. 20240605_140234.mp4

Spent more time than I will admit finally making a picture frame jig sled. Many attempts trying to get the angles right with a few do overs dealing with glue that was set and pulling up some ply vaneer. I still had to use painters tape to shim one side to get a decent, hopefully acceptable miter. The YouTube videos make it look easy. Didn't know if the inside or outside of the miter was the most important!

I need to solve my dust problem in my new shop. I am really concerned about dust and I'd like to enjoy wood working with the peace of mind that I am in a more or less healthy environment. I am using for the moment being this respirator for the scroll saw and sanding. I also do all the sanding outside: https://www.gvs.com/en/catalog/elipse-p3-respirator And I would like to use a combination of a dust extractor or vac and an Air filter to be as protected as possible. Apart from the sanding machine, there is a band saw on the way and, in a near futher, also a lathe. Regarding the Air filter, I thought about something like this: https://www.recordpower.co.uk/product/two-stage-air-filter-with-remote-3-speeds-and-time-delay And about the vac or the dust extractor, I think that it should be something with M classification: https://www.festool.co.uk/campaigns/application-advisor/product-advisor-for-dust-extraction Or this: https://www.recordpower.co.uk/product/cgv3865--90l-2000w-large-extractor-4-inlet So maybe you can help me with some suggestions on this matter. I might be getting a little "overworried" about the dust thing, that is also a possibility. What are the main issues to take into account on both devices (air filter and vac/extractor)? Many thanks on advance for your help.

My sorry ass attempt to use only for picture frames if I ever learn how to make them. Probably used a cheap square to reference the blade. The painter's tape saved me from beating the glued rails from the sled for yet another do over. I have a lot to learn.

If you are cutting the miters on a tablesaw, there are many videos on the net that show tablesaw sleds that are real easy to make. The key is to make the sled fit to your saw. Use both miter slots to support the surface board and then build off that using the blade as your reference point. never use a fence to reference off unless the fence was built off the blade. The most important factor is to use the same length sides that are opposite if doing a 4 sided frame. Here is a photo of one of mine that I use for many things but can easily adapt to make picture frames with. I build these for all angles that I need instead of using a varying fence because I feel once set up there is no fussing when angle is changed.

Thank you! To make it really glossy, I waited quite a while for the lacquer to dry. I then used the Micro-mesh sanding pads followed with 3M 2 and 3 polish system. Alot of elbow grease!

This is fantastic, the craftsmanship is over the top and the finishing is excellent. This piece should be cherished forever

Great work a real masterpiece.

Yes still have it. The pen I have in mind to make for it is still not made because it is going to take some real thought how to accomplish what I want to do. But it is one of those continuing projects that I am sure we all have. I will get to it. here is my piano box.