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Going to be moving in a couple months and have been slowly getting rid of stuff and packing. I had my saw set up in my dining area but now need that area for storing boxes. sadly had to make the choice to store the saw for now. the space is more important right now. Once I get moved though i will have a big garage and all so should be able to get right back in the game.

Just finished this for my granddaughter who lost her dog last week. I want to give a shout out to Don who was able to add the name in there for me. He did a great job. Thanks again Don.

Good luck with the move. Congrats on getting yourself a 2 car garage. I went the opposite. From a 2 car garage to a shed. Eagerly awaiting the delivery of my new saw.

Where ya going? I'd love to move and find a place with a garage. At 81 it becomes a daunting task though.

I am a hobbyist scroller but more importantly a lucky husband and father! In 2022 I fired up my old craftsman and started scrolling for the first time in probably 20 years. i did a few simple projects and then some nice Steve Good patterns including a modified nurse pattern for my daughter in laws graduation. In January I suffered a stroke. I am fortunate that it did not affect me cognitively, but it did leave my left side flacid. So, i invested in a Dewalt 788 (got a great deal) because of the ease with changing the blade with one hand. I will use a hack that Steve Good shared a few years ago to hold the blade. My belief is that scrolling will assist in rehabing my hand. Looking foward to sharing my findings!

I just converted my fluorescent shop lights to LEDs. Love it.

This is for my daughter's graduation. My apologies for the long read....It certainly took me multiple tries and a long time to create this. I used maple and walnut for the keys with black wood veneer turned sideways (the keys are 5/8 thick). The mahogany and walnut stripes are also 5/8 and were stack-cut on the Hawk G4 so the pieces could fit together when I separated them. I also used the veneer turned sideways to take up the kurf.... I made the ornament on top and the ones inside the box on my EX 21. I also cut a thin piece of walnut for the under side of the top since I didn't want the piano keys to show when you open it.. I polished it to a high gloss. The bottom was all walnut and I purple floxed the inside. The music box was a challenge since it came out of an antique powder box. 20240605_140234.mp4

I got the idea from a site that makes and sells customized metal signs. I changed their Celtic knot to one with a heart. I imagine for those that sell, this would be a good seller. Takes a while to cut out though. I'm definitely not a fast cutter. About 8", 3/4" Alder with flat black Luan backer.

Congratulations on your move. Sorry it entails putting your saw up for now. I feel your pain, we started packing up last year about this time to move, building a large workshop at new place. Weather has not cooperated. Finally under roof. Not sure I will remember how to use any of the equipment by the time it’s all done.

Going to move to Kingman AZ area. been looking for some time. Currently in an apartment an dthey are needing to renovate the ceiling or something like that so have to move out anyway so might as well make the move now.

This is the video I have used to figure out how to make floating frames. I have cut with a hand saw & miter box. I still struggle with the measurements.

God luck hope it goes well. Not fun in our part of the world. Never is anywhere

Love this as it what I am wondering to try. Will rethink as my tools are not so many. There are wood working class or hobbies am thinking of going to see what they have to offer.

Is this the finished size of the panel?

Thank you so much! I just gave it to her and she really did liked and needed it since she didn't have a jewelry box. According to her husband, her jewelry is all over the place. She said the piano keys actually looked like ivory and she loved the music box inside it. Thanks again for your kind words.

After For example..

Read it three times... Speed square, rabbet, rince & repeat got through...

Jimmy, in my experience the easiest and most accurate way to measure the length of the frame piece is to measure at the rabbet. The only calculation needed is to add 1/8" for "wiggle" room. For example; you're wanting to build an 11 x 14 frame, you would add an 1/8" to the length of each piece, so 2 pieces 11 1/8" and two pieces 14 1/8. Using a 45* tool (speed square, for example) mark a line on one end of your stick of molding (or just cut a 45 off one end); at the rabbet measure 14 1/8", mark a 45* line, measure from the outside marks to determine the length, use this to set the stop so that both pieces are exactly the same length. Rinse and repeat.

I've used this style before, but I can't find mine right now. Just an idea for an alternative style of sled. All of the saws in the commercial framing business I worked at had a adjustable stop that featured a reverse 45* bevel that formed a pocket to fit the frame into so that the frame wouldn't be able to creep. the style I referred to: https://www.amazon.com/Rockler-45-Degree-Miter-Sled/dp/B0186IPNCM/ref=pd_ybh_a_d_sccl_1/141-1356443-9605339?pd_rd_w=DmW1Q&content-id=amzn1.sym.67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_p=67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_r=0AH64H39YPK30EM0Y3RP&pd_rd_wg=Gj9Sf&pd_rd_r=a653147f-a65d-448d-8db7-0380c8172cb6&pd_rd_i=B0186IPNCM&psc=1

Made a back fence today... Didn't need to be as high as I made it since it will only be used for picture frame but I figured what the heck...

Nice job!

Looks great, RJ

excellent job

Very nice.

That really would make a great tattoo. You did a terrific job Charlie. Marg

I do, pretty tame one. My wife, Connie wanted one for her 50th birthday. I decided to get one with her. She designed hers, Faith, Hope, and Love. I've had more than my share of fights with the black dog of depression, which inspired mine. I don't regret getting it but the letters are bleeding together which is a bummer. I'm still glad I have it, mostly because it's part of our story.

I’ve been wanting to do this one for quite a while. Very fun pattern by Botas Helder. Planning to do a few more similar patterns to go over my grill. The barn door is from a century old barn from my wife’s family.

Just finished this piece for my 9 year old Granddaughter who lost her best friend a couple days ago. She passed away unexpectedly. I want to thank Grampa (Paul) for making this pattern for me on such a short notice. This is her as a puppy and when she was a little older. Not even a year old.

Like Bill said, we all work differently and one method doesn't work well for one or another.. I've never tried the hot glue method.. but many here have said that's how they do it which is interesting to me. Someone mentioned the pin nailer having to get one and many of the lower cost ones require a air compressor etc.. Being I'm usually in the mindframe of production cutting and do mostly stack cutting between 4 and 6 to a stack for the past 15 years.. my most used method was always tape around the edges.. IF you make sure to have the stack held together very tight and make the tape go over the edges tightly etc etc.. it has always worked very well for me.. I usually use shelf liner on the top layer and have my pattern already glued onto the top layer before taping the stack together.. this way peeling it back off is easy other than the very bottom piece but that is on the back side anyway so it could be sanded off etc. if needed.. I usually use clear packing tape as it is thinner than most of the painters tape.. The pin nailer work really well for me too for large projects.. as it keeps the middle of the stack good and tight.. I've not had any issues with that method either but I also have a small die grinder that I'll quickly use to grind down the pin nails so they won't scratch the table top etc. I could see myself a bit annoyed with the glue gun method as I'd have to wait for it to warm up to work.. I suppose if I planned it right and plugged it in while prepping the pattern etc.. that'd probably work well to once I got the system down. I've been using the tape for so many years without issues that sometimes if in a rush I don't bother and just use tape.. on occasion with big projects and the middle does start bouncing around I'll drive a screw or pin nail in a waste area just to help out. Anyway, I think I'll gift the glue gun method a try one of these days.. maybe I'll start a new method or maybe I'll hate it and continue what I've always done. I'm not one of those that my way is the way it has to be done and open to trying new ways.. This topic has been interesting to me to see how many are using the glue gun.. so I have to try it.

Nice photos.. I think these would make great photo jigsaw puzzles as well.. always wanted to do these types of puzzles but back then I didn't have a good camera and never knew where to get royalty free photos.. now I have a nice camera but my printer is only black and white..

The owl looks like a Stealth bomber coming at you.

I tried today "smaller" blades... It was a great difference. Not so many mistakes and a more fluid cutting. Thanks everyone for your answers and help.

It depends on what you are trying to accomplish. If there are sharp corners, you may need smaller blades. The wood makes a difference. Feed rate matters, as does how much you are willing to sand. My go-to blade is a Pegas #3 MGT. If that isn't working, I'll switch to something else. I routinely cut 3/4-inch wood with a #3 blade. It is slow but smooth. Cutting straight takes practice.

I agree with Don #9 blade is way to big for pine and most of the cutting on a scrollsaw in my opinion

I agree with Witchman on the Polar blades. If you are attached to Pegas blades I have used Pegas skip tooth blades (#6) with success when cutting 1 1/2 ornaments. I think the issue is the reverse as it does not clear the saw dust as well. With cutting pine it is soft and sometimes the grain will make you go off the line. When cutting cutting thicker pine I will use a smaller blade like a #5 or even #3. You just have to slow down the feed rate. A #9 will tend to grab the wood more.

A good feather board really helps.

Welcome from Spain, Wayne.

Yes, it's the outer dimension on a 1/4" Baltic birch panel with no mat and wanting a 1/4" space between the artwork and the frame interior. I have a router table and cut rabbets before with some trial and error cutting them before frame is assembled. Tired of spending hours making firewood