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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/14/2024 in all areas
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Your Paws Were Ready
danny and one other reacted to Roberta Moreton for a topic
2 points -
2 points
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Frames
barb.j.enders and one other reacted to jimmyG for a topic
Got prices from Michael's before and it was way to expensive. I can fuxk up a lot of wood experimenting cheaper.2 points -
Alex Fox Modified C01 Basket
danny reacted to Denny Knappen for a topic
An Alex Fox modified pattern. I used 1/4" solid Walnut 8" square. Rather than cutting 12 rings, I cut 7 rings leaving a wider base. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #1 MGT blades. After sanding and dipping in diluted Shellac, two coats spray Lacquer Clear Gloss and sanding between coats. Comments welcome.1 point -
The simple line drawings of RED LIP LADIES IN HATS are prolific online and most are stock images that cost little or nothing to obtain. There are also a lot the simple line drawings of RED LIP LADIES and RED WINE. With only minor conversion work needed, using Inkscape to make scrollable patterns from these simple line drawings is a snap. The patterns were each designed for an 11x14 panel. However, for these projects I printed them out scaled down in Adobe to fit 8x10 panels. As usual, the cut panels are 5/32” Maple Solid Core Ply and backers are 1/4” BB Ply. The backers were painted Black with, of course, Red for lips, accessories, fingernails, and wine. And, as usual, painting was done with an Air Brush using Artist Acrylic Air Brush Paints. Although the individual panels were rather simple cuts, using mainly Pegas #2/0 spiral blades and Pegas #1 MGT R blades for the smooth long cuts, the 10 panels did take quite a while to complete. Handling each individually, from start to finish, was quite time consuming. Then there was my choice to make gang frames. IMHO, the smaller panels look better in narrow rail frames, especially when ganged. Although all the construction is like what I do when I make my standard 1 3/4” wide rail frames, the narrow rails are difficult work with. This added a lot of time to the project. The frames were primed and painted Matt Black. Between our cruise, major yard projects, dealing with a stomach bug, and slipping in the Abstract Art Cat and Dog cuttings, this is the results of what has been occupying my shop time over the past few weeks. Comments and critiques always welcome.1 point
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First of many questions...
OCtoolguy reacted to Roberta Moreton for a topic
Most scroll saws are similar. Can you show us a picture please?1 point -
1 point
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1 point
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Had to store the scrollsaw today
OCtoolguy reacted to Denny Knappen for a topic
I wish you the best on the move. Moving to Tennessee better be our last move.1 point -
Picture frame ~Jig/sled
OCtoolguy reacted to Bill WIlson for a topic
In simplest terms the short point of your miter will be the length of the corresponding edge of the piece being framed, less 2x the width of the rabbet. If the dimensions of the piece are 10" x 12" and the rabbet is 1/2" wide, then the short point of the miter for 2 sides would be 9" and 11" for the other 2 sides. Cut them a hair long and sneak up on a final dimension for best fit, if you aren't comfortable committing to a finished dimension with the first cut. Always make sure to cut pieces for parallel sides to exactly the same dimension.1 point -
Sawdust video by Stumpy Nubbs
oldhudson reacted to Bill WIlson for a topic
I watched that the other day. I like Stumpy. He tends to offer a very reasoned and common sense perspective on a variety of WW'ing topics. This is another.1 point -
I've watched plenty of videos on how to CUT miters for picture frames but very few that explain the math to show WHERE to cut them except the ones that engineering majors post. So I guess coming up with a simple EASY to follow formula to make a frame for a 1/4" panel with NO mat remains a mystery. Most of my woodworking skills have been trial and error anyway...1 point
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1 point
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Air filter and vac/dust extractor recommendation
NC Scroller reacted to Davevand for a topic
Try to collect as much dust at the source as possible, don't let the dust get airborne. I setup a two stage system with a small cyclone (Amazon cheap one) in front of my vacuum. It work surprisingly well. I have yet to have to clean the air filter in the vacuum (4 years) and I have emptied the dust bucket several times. I also have a hose on top of my table that is hooked to the vacuum to collect from above the project. There is a surprising amount of dust on top of the table.1 point -
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Alex Fox Modified C01 Basket
Roberta Moreton reacted to alexfox for a topic
This variant also looks great!1 point -
Do you guys realize the original poster hasn’t been on in over a year?1 point
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First of many questions...
JJB reacted to MTCowpoke22 for a topic
Get ready to go down the rabbit hole. Good advice above. Sounds like you've got most of what you need already. Only thing I'd add would be small set of riffler files. You should be able to find some reasonably cheap on-line or at your local hardware store. They are handy for removing the fuzzies and burrs from the bottom of your cuts.1 point -
Hi Jason, Welcome. Ask all the questions you want and folks will chime in. Most of what you'll learn will be by trial and error... types of wood, thickness of wood, which blades, what to make... It's truly endless. My bit of advice is start simple, get familiar with the saw and how it cuts, then experiment with different types of projects. Intricate fretwork likely isn't the place to start as any tiny false move and you'll have a mess and it'll just frustrate you. Personally, I buy my wood from Lowe's and Home Depot but be sure to check out hardwood specialty stores in your area. Take a look at the website Wooden Teddy Bear for tons of options of things to make. http://www.woodenteddybearonline.com/x/ There are also plenty of free patterns available here and other sites. Enjoy the adventure. Iggy1 point